Here is a list of all the postings Matt Stevens 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sizing a Burner|
That is what i had plans for
I assume there is little disadvantage....Other than identifying a suitable burner!
So my boiler is close to being finished! See pic below...
I would like to get a gas burner setup for this. Whilst the boiler is designed for coal, I can't help but feel gas will be so much more controllable and cleaner.
Having looked at the market, there isn't so many round burners available with the biggest I can find being 2& 5/8" diameter. Getting that and the jets, piping, canister valve etc is not the cheapest setup and so I want to get it right. The trouble is, I have no idea how much heat I need and if this is going to be plenty, just enough or not enough at all!
I will be running Stuart Models (Biggest to date is a twin Victoria, but I can see doing a major beam in the future) and would like to think this boiler is sufficient for any of those at 6" diameter and 13" tall (plus chimney) with the inside of the firebox being around 4.75" diameter.
How do I calculate what I need? OR Can you give me confidence that what I am planning will be sufficient?
Link below to burner in question...Burner
|Thread: 6" vertical boiler cladding and testing|
This is the Reeves 6" diameter vertical boiler. You can buy the plans and cast top from Reeves directly.
|Thread: Gas Burners for boiler|
Thanks Mike - I was hoping for something commercially available but i will not rule out making something if needbe.
Did you do any kind of thread on its making? I see only a couple of pictures there....
My 6" diameter vertical boiler is getting ever so close to steaming up! So now i need to turn my attention to fueling it.
Whilst the boiler is fundamentally designed for coal use, i see no reason why i can't use a gas burner in the firebox so its more controllable and cleaner. The inside of the firebox is ~4.75" diameter.
Can anyone recommend a) the right size burner as i am not sure if i need to fill the space or get away with something more modest in size and b) where the best place to purchase from?
I am based in Ontario Canada, but importing is an option if required.
|Thread: 6" vertical boiler cladding and testing|
I made solder rings for most things, that way it works very nicely when heated....
I am finally getting my boiler soldered up and nearing a point of usability! Of course i have some questions....
- I will pressure test the boiler to twice working pressure and then immediately go into adding the fittings and am sure i will want to steam as soon as possible! I have seen a couple of discussions about setting the safety valves by use of hydraulic pressure testing.... any tips here? Anything else i need to do before first steam?
- What is the best / traditional wood strip to use for cladding? I see Mahogany is common - any reason why?
- Brass banding. What is the best practice to secure the bands...i assume to solder a small block on each end, and tap one, clearance drill the other and then use a screw. However this might work but not sure how nice it looks. Is there a better method?
- How many brass bands....is there a rule of thumb like one every x inches?
- Shoe Polish - I have seen the use of black shoe polish on a toothbrush to blacken between the wood strips and bring out the grain a little. This was done after oiling/varnishing(?) the wood. Any thoughts on this practice?
- Glue. I have seen the use of a liberal amount of glue when applying the boards, yet we know the boards should come loose after some expansion and contraction of the boiler. Would a dab on a few places make more sense or do you actually want the boards to glue to each other?
- Do you need to remove the boards for annual pressure testing or any other purpose?
- Any other hints any tips regarding cladding? Thickness of boards? Anything under the cladding? etc
Images for interest....
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Toolpost issue|
The reason i want to use 12mm (1/2" tooling is that - thats what i have already!
However it is a fair point to say - will it be cheaper to buy a new QCTP system or to buy a complete new set of carbide tooling from China.....hmmmm
So i have been in contact with Myford and they have suggested i purchase the Myford ML10 QCTP kit.....apperently the only difference between the 7 series and ML10 QCTP is the relief that is cut out on the ML10 holder to allow them to sit lower. He said the website claims 2mm relief but in reality it is 4mm which is just enough to accommodate 1/2" tooling.
If the above it true, it makes for an east fix for any Myford 7 series....however i am still wary because i don't understand why they wouldn't just sell that one kit for all lathes promoting its advantage on the 7's.
Has anyone come across this solution?
Its advertised for the ML7, but i assume the topslide is the same between the ML7 and Super 7?
It also claims on this page that the slide can be milled to allow the usage of 1/2" tools in a QCTP....anyone seen these or got experience of them?
Dave - The Southbend i have is a 1939 Model C....so no QCGB, No reverse, no power cross feed, bed getting worn, no way to mount attachments to the cross slide (i.e. no T-bolts), less speed range, less tailstock feed etc. These are all advantages to the Myford which is much younger, in great condition and like i said - purchased at a good price.
Steve - I did watch your video, i see you machined down the top of the top slide quite a bit. I am not keen on that particularly, but perhaps modifying the tool holders is an option.
Jason - Understand your point about rigidity, however is it any different than using smaller tooling anyway? i.e. are they just comparable?
So it seems the main options are a) Buy all new tooling (expensive) or b) get a new QCTP suitable for a Myford with 12mm tooling or c) mill down my tool post holders so they will sit lower.
Perhaps option b) is the cleanest way to go and then when i sell the southbend, i can increase the cost by $100 to help offset. Any other ideas or am i concluding the right way?
So i just picked up a Myford Super 7B for a great price and with many accessories as well. It does have a quick change tool post holder, but its a real mini thing and will not accept 12mm tools which is most things i have!
I want to move the quick change tool post holder from my southbend lathe across which is much more substantial and of course will accept the 12mm / 1/2" tools.... trouble is, the height of the top slide of the Myford is such that with the holders bottomed out, i would not get to center height on the lathe!
How have most overcome this? I was hoping not to have to buy a new quick change system....
I can use the original tool post holder i guess, but thats like a down grade.
Open to suggestions....
|Thread: End Mills and coatings|
....Is that because the sets tend to be 'cheap rubbish' and you are better spending the money on decent indivudual ones?
Hi Dave.... Whilst i don't technically class myself as a beginner anymore (been home machining for 5 years or so), there is always something to learn from others and going back to basics is often the right way. Therefore your comments are valid - perhaps if anything, i am guilty of the first item more than any others!
So yes....blunt end mills is a concern....hence i might look at the sharpening options.
That said, they were cheap end mills to begin with and i tell myself everytime to not buy cheap tools and then guess what....the "amazing deal" comes up. So i might replace them with something better and hence the questions and then use the old ones to practice sharpening.
Thanks for the replies so far....
I will check out the Harold Hall sharpener for interest, however i still think i will get myself a decent set of end mills anyway.
Is TiAIN coating cheaper than AlTIN coating or was there another reason for suggesting it? From a quick google, it seems TiAIN is a good coating for high carbon steels whereas i thought AlTIN was better for mild steels/general?
I suppose it does raise the question about if to bother with coatings at all??? I figured uncoating mills were essentially fine for plastics, aluminium etc but not such a good choice for steels. Perhaps this is a good point to consider the pros and cons of each? For example, are uncoated mills actually sharper anyway?
I am not happy with the low quality end mills i currently own and will not eat for a week so i can buy some new ones....
There are lots of options out there and a homeshop machinist generally cannot afford to have multiple sets of end mills in different coatings, different number of flutes, different sizes and so on - there are many combinations.....but then again, we are not doing production machining and so speeds and feeds can be sacrificed tremendously. So, question is - how can we minimise to the most useful only...
A set of center cutting 4-flute end mills is the start....but what coating? HSS or Carbide? My thought is that given we are typically machining cast iron, brass, mild steel - perhaps HSS with Aluminum Titanium Nitride (AlTiN) coating is the way forward. What are your thoughts?
I am thinking that uncoated HSS end mills are really best for soft materials and even TiN coated the same... Again, thoughts?
....of course next step would be the same in 2-flutes , ball end etc...
|Thread: Silver Soldering help - crankshaft|
Thanks for the responses.....firstly I am based in Ontario, Canada. It is below zero out which likely doesn't help!
The flux i am using is a LucasMilhaupt Handy Flux which is disolved in a little filtered water to make a thick paste. I also have a LucasMilhaupt Tec flux which is for high temperature soldering and is a liquid and quite runny....i was thinking this might help to 'pull' into the joints?
I have used the paste type several times before without issue.
The V-blocks didn't take to much heat, they got warm but not hot. None the less, i could use something else and for sure i can try more firebricks that are closer as well.
I am assuming there is nothing to lose by trying again after a good clean up anyway....
So i have just pinned and silver soldered my Stuart Triple Crankshaft. I am happy with about 50-60% of the joints but some of the others did not capillary into the joints....i think because i did must have 'burnt off the flux'
I have pickled the crankshaft and cleaned up up the best i can with 400 grit, but i am concerned that because i can't disassemble the joints now that i cannot clean them up properly.....do you think it will solder up again if i reflux the outside and try again?
Edited By Matt Stevens 1 on 26/02/2021 03:06:19
|Thread: BSF vs BSB threads|
Slightly different topic....but i have always wondered why standard dies have lead in on both sides. It would be much more ideal to have lead in on one side only then you can flip the die around to tap right up to shoulders rather than create a relief area..... particularly relevant on small parts/threads
Is there a difference between British Standard Fine (BSF) and British Standard Brass (BSB)? They are both 55 degree threads.
More specifically i am wondering if a 1/4" x26 BSF is the same as a 1/4"x26 BSB.
Not sure if there is any difference in the thread form...
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