Here is a list of all the postings Matt Stevens 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cheap DRO for Mill|
So....there is a guy thats given a review of the JingCE 2 axis DRO....seems a fair review watching it, and the guy essentially gives it a thumbs up for home use. See what you think...
I used to work in the VFD Development team at Siemens - they can/do generate alot of noise. You should be able to change the switching frequency which might help, but also make sure you have a screened motor cable (most important) and proper earthing that you already eluded to.
Well thankyou for everyones comments, i appreciate your time to respond.
So some of you are showing you have the most basic of DRO's like the Warco version and they essentially 'do the job' for us model engineers...yet would like to upgrade given the chance. So i guess this leads me to the thought of 'If you would buy again, what would you get'?
I don't mind putting a bit of extra cash where it makes sense, but i equally dont want to go overboard and don't have the means to anyway! (The wife may apply restrictions!). For reference i am located in Canada so i am not necessarily looking for a British supplier, althought thats ok if it makes sense.
I own a CX600 Mill (**LINK**  and i am considering putting a DRO on it.
Now you can spend alot of money on a DRO and you can also get cheap ones from China such as the one i have linked below. Firstly what is the difference? Accuracy and resolution looks good, so what are you getting with a more expensive one.
Also, i am a hobby machinist so whilst i want something of quality for the home use, i am not doing this day in and day out for a living so trying to strike a balance.... anyway, i value your opinions and options. Here is the link to a Chinese version..
|Thread: Which triple expansion engine|
....so far you are swaying me towards the Stuart model! I believe that also is not an easy model to make.
I am thinking already about my next model! I have enjoyed making the Stuart D10 as well as the Stuart twin Victoria and i guess you can say i like Stuart models!
So i was thinking about the Triple Expansion engine next....then i saw that AJ Reeves makes a competitor product to which i have no information about.
Anyone got any opinions about either one? Maybe there are other Triple expansions worth considering?
|Thread: Machine reamer vs Chucking reamer|
I know both chucking reamers and machine reamers can come in straight or spiral flutes and both are not tapered flutes (like hand reamers)....i know a machine reamer has a morse taper shank and a chucking reamer a straight one like a drill.....but is there any reason why you might choose to use one over the other?
Heres my thought....my mill takes R8 collets and has a drill chuck fitted much of the time and the tailstock of my lathe is MT3 but with a drill chuck fitted much of the time. So the common aspect is the chuck which makes me think chucking reamers are the way to go. Otherwise i would need various sets of sleeves....but what i dont know is if there is any advantages of a machne reamer over a chucking reamer.
|Thread: Stuart Victoria paint Colour|
Thanks for the ideas.... They look nice models...
Any other opinions....perhaps post images of your models/colour scheme to give me some inspiration!
So getting near the point of considering painting....question is, what colour? I am kindof set of the box bed being black, but everything else is flexible.
My thought right now is to do the boxbed Stuart black, the cylinder Stuart Green and the flywheel red and everything else polished. Will three colours look odd? What colour red would i use - i have heard somewhere of people using a specific red and mixing a tiny amount of black in? I welcome any other suggestions....
I know this seems trivial in the grand scheme of things, but having spent so long making the thing, i want to make sure i get the colours looking good.
|Thread: Interference fit of bush - PB into mild steel|
So if i use loctite which is probably the easiest way at least, should there be a clearance or is a nice slide fit good enough to get capillary action to work? Further - are we talking red loctite or blue....i assume red? (Yes i know there are many different types, but i am generalising to what i have at home )
The Conn rod of a Stuart Victoria calls for a Phosphur Bronze bush be fitted into the turned mild steel connection rod going to the crank.
My plan is to have a interference fit with the idea that i will heat the conn rod int he oven, cool the bush int he freezer and then simply drop it in place. Hopefully without any pounding!
Question is - what interference should i go for....i am thinking 0.001" ( a thou). Is that sufficient? The bush is 3/8" diameter so only small.
Or is a better option to loctite a sliding fit? This way it can easily be removed, but i doubt this will ever be needed...
|Thread: Polishing Castings|
Ok....maybe you are right and I need to start with a more coarse grit. ..... I just wondered if there was another technique that was perhaps more effective (hence the comment about a polishing wheel on a dremel or bench grinder)
Now that I have started to make bigger parts - i.e. a 7" flywheel, I am finding that using various grit papers to polish becomes a magnitude harder! I would like to get the flywheel to a mirror finish but I am finding using 600-grit is really just polishing the edges and not particularly removing the machine marks.
Does anyone have any hints and tips? For example - what about using a buffing wheel and polish sticks using a grinder?
|Thread: To overbore or not to overbore...that is the question!|
Thanks for the responses....I think I had every possible answer/option there! I guess what it tells me is that it shouldn't really matter if one cylinder is different to the other. Given that, I will likely make the second cylinder according to drawing at 1"....continue the model and if needbe, I can always sleeve the first cylinder later.
In a former post, i showed a problem with a cylinder for a Stuart Victoria that i bored out of true. I was able to correct this by over boring but the bore is now 1.1" instead of 1" and the remaining 'meat' on the cylinder walls is also about 100 thou which i think should be ok.
Now - i happened to purchase another Victoria single and will therefore make the two singles into a twin engine.
Question is - should i bore the second cylinder to drawing at 1" or should i deliberately overbore this also to 1.1" to match the other side? Does it matter if there is a difference from one side to the other on this size of engine?
Another option is i could try sleeving the first cylinder and then re-boring to the correct size. If i did this, what material should i use as a sleeve as i don't want different expansion rates cracking the cylinder.
|Thread: Correcting an off bored cylinder|
Thankyou everyone for your comments.
Buying a new casting is an option, but i am in Canada and by the time i have paid for the part/shipment/broker fees/tax etc it will be equivalent to 50 quid. And, i have nothing to loose by trying to correct it....if i mess it up further, there is nothing lost
I see there are a number of ways to do this and correct the problem.....actually part of my problem is equipment i have available. For example - i do not have a faceplate nor true 90 degree angle bracket....perhaps i should invest!
One approach i have read and like the idea of is using a faceplate and a Keats angle plate. This looks a very easy way to correct the problem with easy adjustability whilst ensuring a true parallel setup......the other approach i thought of was to use a tube drilled and tapped with 3 screws at each end. The part could than be clamped and adjusted in the tube. The tube can then be fitted into the chuck and easily checked with a DTI.
Anyway - thanks for all the ideas, i will let you know how i get on!
I have a Stuart Victoria cylinder that i bored off center and the end flanges are faced to match....i want to correct it and i think there just about enough meat to bore out bigger and increase the piston size.
Question is - how best to set it up in the 4-jaw squarely in order to make the correction....i effectively have no reference face.
|Thread: Stuart D10 reversing gear timing - eccentrics|
So just as feedback....i set the other side at 180 degrees out after playing around with the timing, and i believe that 180 degrees is correct which in my head makes sense anyway.....i'd like to understand where this 120 degree theory come from!
I just hope i can see the first side again using heat other wise i will have to make new Eccentrics
So I am in the process of finishing a Stephenson's reversing gear set (from Stuart) for my D10.
Generally speaking I thinking my machining is pretty accurate and I have the eccentrics pinned at 120 degrees apart per the instruction. I did this by marking the first eccentric out using trigonometry, drilling, then placing this against the second eccentric (flipped over)to drill that one.
Anyway - when it comes to setting up the timing, I have adjusted the eccentric strap to expansion link rods such that I get equal travel in both the forward and reverse settings.....next I have set the eccentrics such that the valve timing is correct when say in the forward direction - that is - just before TDC, the top port starts to open to cushion the piston travel and likewise at BDC it is also correct (ish/valve may need filing slightly to get it totally accurate).....anyway, now when I switch to reverse and turn the crank over in the opposite direction, the timing looks to be way off....like about 60-70 degrees off! Why?
I can only conclude that the eccentrics are not set correctly. I can understand a couple of degrees in accuracy, but so much?!?! I have seen the principle of sliding eccentrics such that you can fine tune, but is this practical on a D10 given the size? Am I going to have to make new eccentrics as my existing ones are nicely pinned together with red Loctite. Maybe heat can separate them?
Any other advice?
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