Here is a list of all the postings Perko7 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Door knob collar|
Original probably stamped, but would metal spinning over a suitable former be a better solution? I know very little about it other than what I've read in some books but it seems like a possibility.
|Thread: Chinese Lathes|
I also have a Sieg C6 purchased new from Ausee at Christmas 2016 and have had very few problems and it has done everything asked of it. The only downsides compared with my other lathe (a 1929 3.5" Ideal) are the lack of back-gear, lack of a handwheel on the leadscrew, and lack of lever-locking tailstock but those are relatively minor disadvantages. As a similar self-taught (late in life) swarf-maker I'm more than happy with it.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Finally got around to silver-soldering some steel components of my built-up coupling rods. Only chose this method due to lack of ready access to a milling machine to mill from solid.
Surprised how easy it was once I had sufficient heat. Ended up putting too much solder in some areas as it flashed through the gaps very quickly once melted so I was a bit unsure of whether there was enough to make a solid joint, hence added a bit more 'for good measure'. Turns out I shouldn't have.
Despite all advice about needing absolute cleanliness, managed to solder in solid some temporary spacers made from black mild steel that had only had the mill scale cleaned off with vinegar and were otherwise untouched. Seems like Tenacity flux works pretty well even on dirty steel.
Now to clean up, drill and ream holes for bushes and fit to loco. Will post some photos when they look decent enough.
|Thread: Arc tangent to two ellipses|
Yes Ivan and JasonB, it is surface development like you have stated, I just couldn't remember the correct terminology.
Neil, I well remember the French Curves we used to use, never could get an exact fit but usually got close enough with a little angling of the pencil where necessary.
Instead of free-handing, we used to use a flexible rule which was a rubbery/plastic 1cm square rod about 40cm long with a soft metal wire of some kind through the core. When you set it to a curve it would just stay there until you straightened it.
|Thread: Moving to Australia - Moving Workshop Machines|
As a lifetime resident, Brisbane is a great city to live in, relatively safe, relatively easy to get around but a bit spread out, a couple of reasonable model engineering resources, and a good climate most of the time (granted it can get a little steamy in summer, and our summer storms can be a bit frightening at first). Humidity effects on workshop equipment can be managed, usually it's your sweat that causes the most problem. Working outside in summer is possible as long as you have some shade and a couple of cold beverages to refresh yourself regularly. Skin cancer is a major risk in these regions so pale-skinned immigrants should quickly adopt the 'slip-slop-slap' sun-smart message. Nasties in summer are usually the mosquitos (mozzies in aussie language) and the midges or sand-flies (about 1/4 the size of mozzies but just as fierce).
Have not imported any equipment into Australia so can't comment on that aspect, but agree with others that good 2nd-hand machines of hobbyist size are pretty thin on the ground, so would recommend bringing yours with you. Main suppliers of new machines are Hare & Forbes, and Ausee who advertise on this site. There are a number of companies who deal in 2nd-hand machines but mostly industrial-size stuff.
Let me know when you get here, happy to show you around. I live about 30km to the west.
|Thread: Arc tangent to two ellipses|
When I did my tech drawing training back in 1970, we were taught to draw it out in plan and elevation first, then draw construction lines at regular intervals perpendicular to the long axis which intersect the arcs. Then we could measure the offset and repeat that for drawing isometric or oblique views. The curve then became a freehand 'join the dot's as it rarely was a constant radius. Hope this helps.
|Thread: Folding Bike design & build|
|Thread: Suitability of hot rolled steel for machining|
I'm also a regular user of hot-rolled steel either in rod or bar form. Never had any issues with deformation after machining. It is sometimes difficult to get a good finish, but I find HSS tools better than carbide for this purpose. Usually machine dry but an occasional squirt with tapping compound will help when deep drilling. Main issue I find is inclusions, as occasionally I'll come across a hard bit that defies all attempts to get a smooth surface. Only option is to part off into the bin and start again.
|Thread: Long drills|
Or maybe just an extra-long screwdriver??
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Would not like to accidentally hit my leg with a strimmer having bicycle gear change cable instead of nylon cord!! Could result in a very nasty wound. Also the end tends to become frayed and 'unwound' so they do not cut as cleanly as a solid nylon cord.
Strimmers may be instruments of the devil Mark P but they do have very useful little engines and lots of lovely metal bits that can be re-purposed!
|Thread: Fork and blade conrods|
I bit off-topic but I've seen this design once before, it was on a trophy presented to my father for his Morris Minor at a Morris Car Club rally in Queensland. The trophy was a polished timber base with a set of conrods mounted on it just like those in the OP photo. The conrods were clearly marked as coming from a Rolls Royce, presumably a V8. They were pretty solid. My guess it was designed that way to minimise vibration from offset conrods when the engine was running?
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Finished the buffer heads earlier this week and mounted them on the shanks. Also finished the housings and gave all a squirt with spray can of primer. Got some suitable springs this arvo from Bunnings and assembled the units, went to mount the first one on the headstocks and found I only had 7 x 5BA nuts so could only fit one buffer. Ordered some more so now have to wait until they arrive before I can finish that part of the job. Still, plenty of other things to work on.......
Made the other two buffer housings a couple of days ago, spent this afternoon making the blanks for the buffer heads from 50x50 squares of 10mm mild steel. Trimmed the corners to make roughly octagonal shapes, drilled and tapped M6 to mount on an arbor in the lathe, then started trimming to size. Interrupted cuts make lots of noise and the chips varied in colour from blue to bright red. Impressed by the resilience of HSS tools doing this, only had to re-sharpen once. Blanks were too hot to handle when done but the tool tip was not hot at all! Now need to re-mount on the arbor and turn to required profile before mounting on shanks (also threaded M6) with a smear of retention fluid.
Made two buffer housings today, machined from solid 25mm MS bar. Two more to go then i can start on the buffer heads, but tomorrow and Tuesday are both full up so will have to wait until Wednesday .
Finally got some time abusing metal after several weeks filled with house renovations. Managed to make a start on the loco buffers by turning up the shanks. Once they are done I can turn my attention to the housings and then the buffer faces. Just need to find a lump of 50mm dia steel bar which I can slice up with the bandsaw.
|Thread: New coffee maker - disgusting taste!|
Reminds me of a comedy classic:
|Thread: Skyhooks - an overhead solution|
Either my ceiling is too high or my arms are too short......
btw Skyhooks is also the name of an Aussie glam rock band from the 70's
|Thread: Get on yer bike|
Wife has an exercise bike which she rides while watching TV. I prefer to be out on a real bike. Used to ride to work regularly but since retiring I've been content with pottering around on the mountain bike mostly. Nothing compares with actually getting somewhere on a bike. Rail trails are popular in this part of the world at the moment, great for mtb and cross-over bikes, surface usually dirt and gravel/remnant ballast, gradients are gentle, scenery usually good, regular towns for 'refreshments' and no cars. Railtrail near me is about 160km end to end with overall elevation change of about 400m and very popular. A 44km Australia day ride on Saturday was originally limited to 80 people, about double that number actually turned up.
|Thread: Wheels for a 5 inch gauge battery loco|
The AALS (Australian Association of Live Steamers) standards for 5" gauge actually have two options, 16mm wide wheels for models of standard gauge locos and 20mm wide for models of narrow-gauge locos.
The profile is suitable for running on either 'proper' Vignole section rail or flat bar rail as often used in miniature railways. The wider flange allows for smoother operation through pointwork built for dual 5" and 7-1/4" gauge ground level railways having a common rail, as the flanges on wheels for 7-1/4" gauge stock are wider and the associated flangeways in the points are naturally wider as well, causing narrow wheels on 5" gauge stock to 'fall in' when crossing the flangeway.
So Paul Kemp is correct in that you need to decide where you are going to run your loco, and make sure the wheel profile you choose is compatible with the track construction it is going to run on.
|Thread: Is it just me?|
Recently had a related incident with getting my car serviced, rang the service number on the dealers 'new' website, only to get an automated message that this number was 'not available'. Checked the number and tried again several times, same result, so rang the showroom number, got an automated answering system which instructed me to select various options which i did, got redirected to the service department, but then in a holding pattern for 20mins. Hung up, rang again, same process, same result, another 20 minutes listening to their advertising pitch telling me how good their customer service was!! Went to the online chat, got the car booked in, then vented my frustration to the hapless chap on the other end. He promised to follow it up, and told me the service department would contact me the following day to confirm the booking. They didn't. I waited 2 more days then rang again, this time got through to a real person, explained what had happened, and was then told my car was not booked into their system for service! Not impressed, got it booked in for certain this time, then reiterated my disappointment at the level of customer service. Girl was very apologetic but blamed it on new telephone system!
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.