Here is a list of all the postings Perko7 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cleaning an old lathe|
You could also try the cleaners used by bicycle mechanics to get congealed crud off bike components, they seem to be organic based and are kind to paintwork including powder coating and ordinary enamels. Failing that my go-to would be kerosene and an old stiff paint brush. Kerosene is pretty easy to get in Australia in 1litre, 4litre and 20litre containers from most hardware/handyman/motor accessory stores.
|Thread: Leaf springs|
You may well find that double the number of leaves using a thinner material will make the springs much stiffer as not only will you have the spring action of the steel but also the friction between the leaves as the spring moves. If you have the opportunity, make up a test rig in which you can set up packs of leaves of various numbers, and load them to see how far they deflect with the weight of a loaded tender. Once you have determined the number of leaves needed to give the required load capacity, if the spring pack is much smaller than the original then you could make up some additional leaves from suitable plastic strip and place these between the steel leaves. They will not affect the load-bearing capacity but will reduce the friction between the leaves making them slightly more responsive.
As an option, many use the steel strapping used on pallets for springs, or else broken bandsaw blades and other similar items. You might find something closer to the required thickness from one of these sources.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Took my nearly completed 5in gauge petrol-powered loco out to the club family day for it's second test run. Not entirely successful. While it would easily propel itself, attaching a riding car proved too much. First the gearbox would refuse to stay engaged, there is too much play in the bushes for the overhanging drive shaft, allowing the gears to move apart under load and skip teeth. Worse in forward gear than reverse, so left it in reverse and tried again. Now found the load too much for the existing centrifugal clutch. A bit of a push saw it get going but it eventually ground to a stop on the grade up into the station. Oh well, only minor issues which can be rectified without too much work. Final straw was a grub screw on the gear change shaft coming loose which meant it was now stuck in reverse. At least I now know it runs, and runs very smoothly, and has plenty of speed, just need to get more of that 25cc of raw power to the wheels!
|Thread: Making a miniature leaf spring.|
Phosphor Bronze strip is often used for electrical pickups on model train locomotives and is usually very thin (10 thou approx) and quite springy. Suggest you try some of the specialist model railway suppliers who cater for the scratch-builder or alternatively the specialist non-ferrous metal suppliers.
|Thread: Archiving old data|
Not a big fan of 'cloud' storage. My previous employer engaged an outside organisation to archive all their records. For some years now they have been progressively converting all their paper filing to digital archives in-house but the task was getting too big. As a consulting engineering firm they had to make sure design information on each project was available for the life of the project in case of any future liability claims. The statue of limitations in most Australian States can be extended where civil suits pertain to engineering designs. Seems like their highly reputable international data storage contractor lost a big chunk of stuff pertaining to some quite notable projects from the last 10-15 years. They are not happy, and neither are their insurers as they now have no evidence to build a defence against any potential claims.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Bazyle, having the tools is only half the story, he needs to have an interest in the use of them as well, which is much harder to 'gift'. Still we can only hope......
Recently sold our house, currently living with our son in his house, meaning all machine tools and most hand tools are in storage until we find a new place and can get a workshop set up again. In the meantime I needed to do a little sheet metal work making up some small mounting brackets from 0.8mm sheet steel. Started with a hacksaw but found it a little hard to hold the sheet metal without access to a vice. Ended up clamping to an old table top using vice-grips which worked ok but distorted the sheet metal so had to be careful I did not damage the areas needed for the brackets. Anyway, part way through I spied a pair of ordinary scissors lying in a drawer, and though 'why not?'. Scissors were extracted from drawer and put to use, and to my surprise and relief cut through the steel sheet almost as easily as the proper metal snips would have. Only 6 cuts so did not blunt them at all, although if it had they would have been easy enough to sharpen again.
Then I had to bend the brackets through 90 degrees, but no vice! What to do?? Spied my old Falcon 12" wood plane in the same drawer as the scissors, it has a nice solid body with a straight 90 degree edge, so clamped the sheet metal to the body of the plane using the vice-grips, a couple of gentle (and not-so-gentle) taps with the hammer and the job was done! As they say, necessity...........
|Thread: Why mostly manual cars in UK|
Best auto I ever had was the 4-speed in a Morris 1300. You could leave it in D and let it change gears itself, or you could manually select the gears. Lovely car to drive as well. By comparison the 3-speed Borg-Warner in a Ford 6-cyl wagon was a slug.
Agree that autos these days have come a long way, especially those in heavy vehicles and in better quality cars. I drive a 43-seat and a 57-seat bus as a job, both with 6-speed auto and built-in retarder which is a great combination, but I still drive (and prefer) a manual car.
That being said, there is nothing more satisfying to an 'old school' heavy vehicle driver than clean shifts up and down in a non-synchro gearbox.
My greatest peeve with auto drivers is the left-foot brakers who rest their foot on the brake pedal while driving, not realising that their brake lights are on all the time they are doing this. Makes it very hard for following vehicles to know when they are actually braking. I always give these drivers an extra couple of vehicle lengths clear if following them.
|Thread: ME August 7, 1947 LBSC Juliet Instructions|
Page 157 Column 1 reads "....he wouldn't follow these notes otherwise!" Next sentence starts "There are two slight differences in the water......."
Page 160 Column 1 half-way down reads "At 4-1/4 in from back of frame...."
Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything more.
|Thread: ME 1/4” Precision drill|
Maybe the round welded-together plastic belt off a Simpson clothes dryer would be suitable?. Seems to last forever, our dryer is now 40 years old and I've only replaced the belt once!
|Thread: Lathe chuck guards - how many folk use them?|
Have not read all the replies to the OP, but enough to get a sense that there are 2 points of view.
My thought is that if it doesn't get in the way and does what it is intended i.e. stops you leaving the chuck key in, then why not leave it on? My Sieg C6 has one, and I'm glad it does. It doesn't stop lubricant or swarf flying about, it's not wide enough for that, just enough to cover the chuck body. It does make sure the chuck key is removed before I turn it on. It also makes a handy arm-rest when I need to use some emery cloth to polish something i've just turned. My Ideal lathe doesn't have one but I only run that at less than 500rpm and it is slow to speed up with slippage in the flat belt as the tension is applied so less potential damage if a chuck key is left in.
I have left a chuck key in the drill press chuck once. It has no guard. There is now a dent at face level on the side of a cabinet about 2m away, glad I wasn't standing in between them at the time.
|Thread: Half round brass beading|
I've used soft solder to attach brass strip around window and door openings in a sheet steel cab wall with no problems, using a handyman gas torch. Just need to make sure you use a flux that works on steel and will cope with the heat needed as the cab sides (or in your case the tender sides) make a good heat sink.
|Thread: Solvent for degreasing engine, without damaging the paintwork?|
Have a look at some of the de-greasing and gunk-removing products used by bicycle repairers, they are very kind to paint, although most bike frames these days are powder-coated which seems to be less affected than regular paint.
Alternative that I've always used is kerosene (which may or may not be the same as paraffin suggested in an earlier post).
|Thread: THIN cutting oil - Suds alternative?|
I've mostly cut dry in the lathe and bandsaw, but use Trefolex CDT spray cans for most drilling and tapping. It does help with turning in the lathe but I've only found it necessary occasionally. It apparently leaves an anti-corrosive residue, but that might simply be one of the properties of the main constituents which are distillates of petroleum. It doesn't stain and does leave a more 'oily' residue than WD40 which I used on a friends milling machine to mill aluminium and zinc alloys. I've not tried anything else so can't make any comparisons.
|Thread: Working leaf springs|
Would the mini-hacksaw blades be of any use? They are 6mm (1/4) wide across the teeth, grind them off and they would be just on 5mm wide which is a smidgen over 3/16.
|Thread: My Faircut Lathe|
Just came across this thread, saw the photos of the motor arrangement, its a bit like the arrangement on my Ideal lathe except that I assembled the motor and layshaft into a sub-unit that hinged at the bottom and used the weight of the motor and layshaft to tension the flat belt. Works pretty well with enough 'grip' for decent depth of cut and feed rate without overstressing an old machine, but if I get too ambitious (or something goes wrong) the belt just slips.
|Thread: Scale gauges|
In Australia some 5-inch gauge models of standard (4ft 8-1/2inch) gauge locos are built to a scale of 1-1/16inch to get the scale/gauge proportions correct. Like model railways there are always compromises to be made, either for ease of construction, or to provide greater clearances, or because a scale reduction of actual dimensions would not provide sufficient tolerances or clearances for satisfactory operation. As others have said, narrow-gauge prototypes have different scale/gauge combinations. My model of a 3ft6inch gauge Queensland loco is built to 1-1/2inch scale to run on 5inch gauge track. It's not exactly correct, but I'm not going to use a scale of 1-27/64inch just to make it so.
I don't know where or when the adoption of 7-1/4inch gauge occurred in the UK and Australia, but that is what has become common use so we adjust the necessary dimensions to suit the 'slightly wider than scale' track gauge while keeping the rest of the loco to scale.
|Thread: Tempering Rivet Snaps|
Are you only dealing with copper rivets or do you want to use them with steel rivets as well? That might have an influence on your choice of material.
|Thread: Need a lot of help from you good people|
Unless you are always accelerating or driving uphill or going around ridiculously sharp curves, a free-rolling train has very little resistance once it is moving. Try moving a loaded train by yourself, with just 1-manpower I can keep a train of two 7-1/4"riding cars each carrying 6 adults travelling at a fast walk without breaking a sweat. The average person can only manage about 250-300W maximum output, and I would not be using half of that. 2HP is in my opinion seriously over-powered, and requires batteries, leads and controller capable of handling the high currents such motors will draw if loaded to capacity. What is more important is traction, and provided that the motors have enough power to spin the wheels if the train is stalled then that is sufficient. It's not hard to measure the traction force available using a spring scale connected to the loco coupler and with the loco wheels locked. A few simple calculations will determine the motor power necessary to provide this traction force, add a little for a safety margin and you're pretty much set.
Have a look at the small motors powering e-bikes, and they are no slouches up steep hills or accelerating off the mark!
I'll get off my horse now.....
|Thread: Superheat or not?|
General chinwag among club members over a cuppa at a working bee today generated some discussion on whether superheaters are any advantage in a typical 5inch gauge loco. The consensus amongst the 'knowledgeable' was that they were a waste of time and potentially dangerous. An example was given of an over-filled boiler which ended up with water passing through the regulator into the superheater which acted as a flash steam generator making the loco unstoppable until all the water had evaporated. I note from early ME's that LBSC was 100% in favour of them. I'd be interested to know what current practice is in other parts of the world.
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