Here is a list of all the postings Perko7 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: THIN cutting oil - Suds alternative?|
I've mostly cut dry in the lathe and bandsaw, but use Trefolex CDT spray cans for most drilling and tapping. It does help with turning in the lathe but I've only found it necessary occasionally. It apparently leaves an anti-corrosive residue, but that might simply be one of the properties of the main constituents which are distillates of petroleum. It doesn't stain and does leave a more 'oily' residue than WD40 which I used on a friends milling machine to mill aluminium and zinc alloys. I've not tried anything else so can't make any comparisons.
|Thread: Working leaf springs|
Would the mini-hacksaw blades be of any use? They are 6mm (1/4) wide across the teeth, grind them off and they would be just on 5mm wide which is a smidgen over 3/16.
|Thread: My Faircut Lathe|
Just came across this thread, saw the photos of the motor arrangement, its a bit like the arrangement on my Ideal lathe except that I assembled the motor and layshaft into a sub-unit that hinged at the bottom and used the weight of the motor and layshaft to tension the flat belt. Works pretty well with enough 'grip' for decent depth of cut and feed rate without overstressing an old machine, but if I get too ambitious (or something goes wrong) the belt just slips.
|Thread: Scale gauges|
In Australia some 5-inch gauge models of standard (4ft 8-1/2inch) gauge locos are built to a scale of 1-1/16inch to get the scale/gauge proportions correct. Like model railways there are always compromises to be made, either for ease of construction, or to provide greater clearances, or because a scale reduction of actual dimensions would not provide sufficient tolerances or clearances for satisfactory operation. As others have said, narrow-gauge prototypes have different scale/gauge combinations. My model of a 3ft6inch gauge Queensland loco is built to 1-1/2inch scale to run on 5inch gauge track. It's not exactly correct, but I'm not going to use a scale of 1-27/64inch just to make it so.
I don't know where or when the adoption of 7-1/4inch gauge occurred in the UK and Australia, but that is what has become common use so we adjust the necessary dimensions to suit the 'slightly wider than scale' track gauge while keeping the rest of the loco to scale.
|Thread: Tempering Rivet Snaps|
Are you only dealing with copper rivets or do you want to use them with steel rivets as well? That might have an influence on your choice of material.
|Thread: Need a lot of help from you good people|
Unless you are always accelerating or driving uphill or going around ridiculously sharp curves, a free-rolling train has very little resistance once it is moving. Try moving a loaded train by yourself, with just 1-manpower I can keep a train of two 7-1/4"riding cars each carrying 6 adults travelling at a fast walk without breaking a sweat. The average person can only manage about 250-300W maximum output, and I would not be using half of that. 2HP is in my opinion seriously over-powered, and requires batteries, leads and controller capable of handling the high currents such motors will draw if loaded to capacity. What is more important is traction, and provided that the motors have enough power to spin the wheels if the train is stalled then that is sufficient. It's not hard to measure the traction force available using a spring scale connected to the loco coupler and with the loco wheels locked. A few simple calculations will determine the motor power necessary to provide this traction force, add a little for a safety margin and you're pretty much set.
Have a look at the small motors powering e-bikes, and they are no slouches up steep hills or accelerating off the mark!
I'll get off my horse now.....
|Thread: Superheat or not?|
General chinwag among club members over a cuppa at a working bee today generated some discussion on whether superheaters are any advantage in a typical 5inch gauge loco. The consensus amongst the 'knowledgeable' was that they were a waste of time and potentially dangerous. An example was given of an over-filled boiler which ended up with water passing through the regulator into the superheater which acted as a flash steam generator making the loco unstoppable until all the water had evaporated. I note from early ME's that LBSC was 100% in favour of them. I'd be interested to know what current practice is in other parts of the world.
|Thread: Blowers / lighting the fire.|
I've read somewhere that a loco owner had problems with a fan blower for starting up, so fitted a compressed air connection in an inconspicuous location, plumbed into the steam blower with an isolating valve. He just hooks up an air compressor and lets the blower do it's job, seemed to work pretty well too. Once there's enough steam pressure he uncouples the air compressor and closes the valve then turns on the steam blower.
|Thread: What hand protection do you use?|
I only use gloves for arc welding, silver-soldering and grinding. Gloves of choice are soft leather 'riggers' gloves. Not the most heat resistant but retain enough flexibility and 'feel' to make their use more tolerable than anything tougher. Most other tasks I let my bare hands take the brunt of the punishment, but then I'm generally pretty cautious about things that revolve at high speed and spit out bits of metal so have not had any problems so far. Always turn things off before removing swarf, or else use an old paint brush to sweep it away. Not concerned with grease and oil, a good hand cleaner (Orange Scrub by Septone is my choice) gets rid of the majority, the rest disappears when washing the dishes. And yes, I always deburr my cut ends before doing anything else with them.
|Thread: RENAULT DAUPHINE|
Interesting, during a holiday early this year I came across a Renault car club rally in northern NSW, they were staying overnight in Inverell and doing day trips around the area. Saw a number of rear-engined R10's, R8's, and a couple of Caravelle (Floride in Australia) as well, along with front wheel drive R4's, R12's and R16's and other newer and older models, all being driven quite briskly on the open road and all seeming to be in relatively good condition. Obviously some had been lovingly restored but a few appeared to be in original condition with original number plates as well. Always thought the Floride was a pretty car, much nicer styling than the Karmann Ghia which would have been one of their rivals at the time.
|Thread: "I'm calling about your accident" - how does this scam work?|
In Australia we've also had a flurry of the 'we are calling about your recent car accident' calls interspersed with calls from Telecom saying 'we are receiving error messages from your computer internet connection' and a smattering of solar power and cheaper electricity offers. My general response to the first is to tell them they have been misinformed. I used to string them along with the 'which accident was that, I've had so many recently' line but can't be bothered now. The internet ones I usually respond by saying something along the lines of 'well my computer and internet connection seem to be working fine, so since you are my internet provider the problem must be with your equipment!' That usually shuts them up. The others I just tell them I'm not interested and to take me off their call list and that I have recorded their details and if I receive any future calls I'll report them to the Ombudsman. I don't seem to get as many now as I used to.
|Thread: Exhaust Gasket|
Thanks all. Copper is not an option at the moment as I don't have a suitable piece available, and anyway the cylinder is alloy so there could be a problem of galvanic corrosion. Gasket cement would be the type designed for exhaust systems (CRC Maniseal). The rest of the exhaust system is silver-soldered together so silver-soldering another piece of steel to the flange would run the risk of upsetting the existing joint of the flange to the pipe. I've thought of soft-soldering a piece of steel to the existing flange but I'm not sure whether this is practical with the heat of the exhaust possibly melting the solder thus potentially losing the seal.
I already have a piece of 3mm Aluminium made up to suit, so I'll give it a try and see how it works. If no good then I'll explore other options.
|Thread: Making from castings or scratch build.|
Only castings used so far on my (one and only to date) build project (not steam) were the wheels. Everything else fabricated from whatever I had lying around. If tackling a steamer I would want to use castings for at least wheels and cylinders for a first attempt, after that who knows.
|Thread: Exhaust Gasket|
Hi all, just wondering what people use for exhaust manifold gaskets on small I/C engines. Using a 25cc strimmer motor to drive a loco but needed to make a new exhaust system to fit inside body. Existing gasket too thin to give sufficient offset to new exhaust to clear other bits. Thinking about using a piece of 3mm aluminium with a smear of gasket cement on each face. Any thoughts? Exhaust connection is steel, held on with two M5 cap screws into existing exhaust mounting holes.
|Thread: Crystal Ball Gazing|
Can't help but wonder how the scientists can state with such certainty what the atmospheric CO2 levels and sea temperatures were for anything more than about 400-500 years ago, as I doubt that the scientific understanding of our atmospheric processes and the means to measure them would have existed before then? Even the data that is recorded from those times needs to be treated cautiously as there may not have been the same level of accuracy in measuring and recording, and possibly no standardised calibration available for instruments of those eras compared with today.
|Thread: What started your interest?|
Always been into model railways from as young as I can remember. My grandfather was workshop foreman for the Post-Master General (PMG) in Brisbane and had a lathe and a collection of ME magazines I would read avidly whenever we visited. The lathe was passed on to me when he and my grandmother died, sat in my garage under a tarp for about 20 years until I had the time and finances to set it up and consider making something with it. That was about 10 years ago, still learning, still loving it. Workshop has a few more machines now but grandfathers old lathe still takes pride of place.
|Thread: Remembering Apollo 11|
I was a bit older, around 14 I think. My step-mum actually worked at the in the Vehicle Assembly Building at the Kennedy Space Centre during that period and remembers seeing the various components of the Saturn IV and Saturn V rockets passing through, as well as the astronauts and support staff. She was then moved in 1968 to Cape Canaveral and remembers all the staff gathering around in the mission control room to watch various launches of the Saturn V rockets. She left there in June 1969 after getting married so just missed the launch of Apollo 11.
|Thread: A little rant about Emojis and their kin|
I think emoji's are a consequence of the rise of electronic communication where the message is devoid of the tonal inflections and facial expressions that accompany face-to-face speech and therefore lack any contextual reference.
I use them occasionally where the brevity needed, particularly in text messages on phones, precludes the use of expansive phrases and therefore an appropriate emoji at least helps to articulate the intent of the communication.
That being said, I could happily live without them and go back to writing lengthy letters, but how many these days would be bothered to invest the time in reading them??
|Thread: Norton anti virus|
I've always used Trend Micro, at least for the last 10+ years. I've had no compatibility problems with any hardware or other software, I get timely reminders to renew, usually with cheap deals if you renew before it's due. It's easy to renew or upgrade online, easy to customise to my needs, and basically hassle-free. Usual disclaimer.
|Thread: What method do you use to find center height for your lathe bit?|
I faced off a piece of bar and measured the center height from the top of the cross-slide. I then wrote this value on the top of the cross-slide in indelible ink. I usually have a vernier caliper sitting in the tool tray so I just rest the end on the tip of the tool and drop the depth gauge to the top of the cross-slide and adjust with shims (no QCTP) until it matches the written value. This makes up for differences in grinding of the cutting edge and using tools of different size. Where possible I try to keep the right number and size of shims with each tool or tool-holder but they invariably get separated and I have to run through the whole routine again. I have a couple of tool-post blanks which I intend to machine to size and pre-mount cutting tools into, and set to the right height, so all I need to do then is swap tool-posts when I want to change tools.
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