Here is a list of all the postings An Other has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Another scam|
I have an older version of one of these on my landline - it doesn't stop everything, and is no use for mobiles, but it it does work - costs around 70 pounds, and you don't have to rely on the t*ssers at BT.
|Thread: Serious question, What is a Mini Lathe?|
I would agree with the comments about snobbery - it appears to crop up often. A point which has often struck me when comparing descriptions of 'modern' model production, and that of, say, 50 or 60 years or more ago, is that if you read many of the old descriptions, they deal routinely with situations which nowadays seem quite horrendous in terms of producing things - I have many descriptions in old MEs of home made lathes made by people during the last war, for example, which were eventually used to produce some outstanding work. They were built using scrap, or modifying various other items, or by people learning to how to cast and make their own parts.
There are also descriptions in (for example) LBSC's articles describing how to allow for problems when using, to judge from some comments, what would nowadays be regarded as inferior tools. This all seems to me to point to the conclusion that it is not the tool which is important, so much as the person using it, and learning how to overcome shortcomings.
I would also solidly agree with assertion that without the advent of the cheap, chinese-developed 'mini-lathes' and other tools, these forums would be dominated by the professional model-makers. There is no way I can afford something like a Myford these days after the intervention of Her Majesties Robbers and Crooks, but I get hours of fun out of my chinese lathe, which I can modify to suit myself at a reasonable cost.
I for one would like to see a little less of the criticism of the tools used, and more discussion of how to improve those tools, or recommendations from people who use them and know how to get results from them - some peole on this thread are at least trying to do that.
Edited By An Other on 06/08/2019 19:22:33
|Thread: RENAULT DAUPHINE|
Hi, Michael - its beginning to look as though you want to build one
Sorry, your link is not at all like it. Basically, apart from the suspension upgrades, which as I understand it came from some company uprating Imps for racing (Stiffer shorter springs, stiffer shocks, changes to the various suspension arms to give better camber angles, etc), the car body was modified by entirely removing the rear window panel and window, then extending it back following the line of the roof. I think this was done with a piece from another Imp roof, because the new rear window posts looked identical to the original rear window posts, but now came down to the back of the car. (I hope that makes sense). The roof addition was welded across and blended in to make a single smooth curved line from front to rear. The original rear cross member of the car was still used, and a panel added above it which was welded to the rear floor of the car, and the new window posts. This still allowed the engine to be removed as per the original. The panel which had been removed from the original upper rear of the car (supporting the opening window) was refitted into the new rear window posts/roof, and welded in place with a rollbar immediately under the inside edge of the roof (under the interior roof lining), presumably to add strength, and the original opening rear window fitted. The new rear side windows were fitted between the original rear window posts and the new ones (darkened perspex - very chic in those days!)
The interior was completely gutted, and recarpeted with new heavy carpet, and all the old original synthetic plastic 'leather' replaced with real hide. The instruments were replaced with electronic digital types (speedo, petrol and temperature gauges, and a digital rev-counter and oil-pressure gauge added) mounted on a polished wooden dash (a la Jag). The electronics for all these used TTL logic in a metal box fitted under the dash, (no processors then!) with a plug-in lead connecting to the digital displays on the dash - in those days, they were all 7-segment red LED types. I understand that basically the original sensors for various functions were used - for example, the petrol gauge sensor was effectively a variable resistor operated by a float, so a varying voltage from this was converted anolog-to-digital, then used for the display, so not particularly complex. It all seemed to work OK, I never had problems with them, and the garage had no problems accepting it for MOT. I gather the guy who built them used to work at the RRE, so it should have been a doddle for him!
As I noted earlier, the engine was the larger 998cc version, originally fitted with dual Stombergs as per the Stiletto version, but I later changed these for dual SU's, which seemed to be much better. I had some issues with the Strombergs very quickly becoming unbalanced, resulting in a (mostly) weak mixture to two cylinders, and a (mostly) rich mixture to the other two, and also an irritating 'hunting' effect when the engine was running at slow speed. I happened to have the SU's, (think they came from an old Jaguar 2.4 Mk2) so I stuck them on, and they seemed fine.
It didn't seem to involve a vast amount of rebuilding, and the resulting car looked quite neat - it certainly caused comment. I suspect that without the suspension upgrade, it may have been a bit of pig to drive, but as it was, it was fine.
As I said, I eventually sold it because I needed a larger car, and the guy who bought it crashed it, which was a pity.
Love to have seen the Hammerite Beetle. Just after I was married, and had even less money than the government leaves me nowadays, I bought an old Ford Anglia. It badly needed paint, and I had no idea. Orange cars were the thing in those days, so I bought a tin of orange paint at the local hardware store, and went home to start work. When I opened the tin, the paint seemed very thick, but it seemed to spread OK with a brush, so I pressed on.
I had almost finished, when I looked at the tin and realised I had bought thixotropic paint. I had no choice but to leave it to dry, until eventually it looked like the skin on a tangerine! It had one good effect - I didn't dare do anything remotely illegal in the car, because it was so distinctive, I was going to get nicked for sure!
Hi, Andrew - good to see you are still around - been pretty rough myself.
Edited By An Other on 05/08/2019 17:53:31
Michael - It wasn't a Husky - it was a special build. The roof line followed the curve of the standard roof, not raised as in the Husky, and the opening rear window was modified and fitted as a 'hatchback' type door at the rear. It was built by someone in Malvern. All the instruments had been removed and replaced with digital versions. The engine was a 998cc, and all the suspension had been uprated, and the interior re-upholstered in real leather.
I ran it for about a year, then sold it, because at that time I needed a bigger car. The guy I sold it to eventually managed to put the front into a ditch, which bent it sufficiently to be beyond repair. It was quite a useful car, despite the fact that the engine bay took up some of the space behind the back seats, there was still a useable boot space there. It used to cause quite a lot of comment, and people used to ask me where I got it from. Surprisingly, the added weight at the rear did not make much difference to the handling, except that it was bit sensitive to high side winds.
Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of it now, (it was a long time ago) so I can't show you it.
This thread brought back some memories. I had several Imps long ago, and have to say I liked the car. I had one special version which had an 'Estate Car' rear end (not the van), and a digital speedo (this was around the mid 1970's). Contrary to some of the opinions here, it handled well. My opinion is that the weight of the all-aluminium engine/gearbox at the rear was fairly well balanced by the fuel tank at the front of the car, and the weight of the driver and front seat passenger.
It was always a fairly easy car to work on. I changed the clutch (first UK car to use a diaphragm clutch!) on one single-handed at the side of the road. Simply support the engine and wheel the car away. The job I always hated was replacing the rubber drive doughnuts, because they had to be compressed using a special tool (actually a big jubilee clip), and it always seemed to be a PITA to get the bolts back in!
Tappet adjustment was a la Jaguar XK, by replacing shims under the tappet buckets - I eventually ended up with a bucketful of the shims collected from scrapyards, because you had to fit a shim, assemble it all, measure the gaps, calculate the actual shim size needed, then take it all apart to fit the correct one - but it was OK once it was done.
The standard 875cc engine went quite well, but I much preferred the twin-carb 998cc - much more go!
At one time I worked on the Rapier missile system. At that time, the generator unit for the system was powered by a variation of the Coventry Climax engine, which was originally developed (I believe) for fire-engine pumps, and was later developed into the Imp engine.
|Thread: Tyres for bandsaw|
The tyres desintegrated on my bandsaw about 4 years ago, and at the time I was unable to locate replacements. Since I need to use it, I made 'temporary tyres from some thick leather I had (about 3 mm thick). These were glued in place with impact adhesive. I 'feathered' the ends so they overlapped about 1 cm. They are still in place, and the saw gets a fair amount of use, which has made me wonder about the advisability of fitting the correct tyres in view of the prices mentioned in this thread.
|Thread: Supaburner's for Model & Toy Steam Boilers Explained|
Saw this thread rather late on (Internet connection in our village was down for three days over the weekend), and thought this info may be useful to someone-.
I needed some fibreglass rope for a particular job, and by chance found out that I could easily get different sizes of F/G rope intended for the seal around the edges of woodburning stove doors. It used to be asbestos, but since that has disappeared it has been replace by F/G. I was able to buy it by the metre(?) very cheaply in various diameters, and it seems to be OK for wicks.
|Thread: What are these wheels /tyres?|
pgk pgk - thats not the kit I have, it was sold specifically for ride on mowers, and has warnings all over it that it should not be used for vehicles used on the road - but like you, I don't think I would use any repair kit like this on road-going vehicles. I have had two or three repairs (using my kit) fial, either because the plug had not inserted fully (there is no way to be sure), or simply failing to seal the hole.
I'm afraid I err in the direction of supercautious with road tyres - I have lost the tread on a retread at speed (some years ago), and have had a new tyre simply burst on me - it appeared that it developed a soft spot in the sidewall, then simply blew out, so now I throw away tyres with any damage, and replace them - about 6 or 7 tyres over 50 years, so its not that bad when you look it over time.
Sorry - didn't mean to hijack the original thread - is the drum/tyres part of some kind of roundabout or ride for the kids?
pgk pgk - Our local tyre bodger will not repair tyres that have been filled with this horrible slime they sell for 'instant' repair of tyres. Having senn one after it has been removed from the wheel, I can't say I blame the guy at all. There is quite a lot about it online.
Incidentally, I noted your comments about internal and external plugs: I never found external plugs, and the plugs I described are fitted from the exterior - there is a sort of file with the kit, which one forces through the casing at the point it has been punctured to enlarge and clean(?) the hole. The plug is then fitted into the gun mushroom head first (they are quite soft, and the gun is designed to allow this). The nozzle of the gun is forced into the hole in the tyre, then the gun is screwed onto its nozzle. The gun is pumped 4 or 5 times, and this forces the plug head first through the tyre casing, then the gun is pulled away. This leaves the mushroom head against the inside of the casing, with the stem poking out through the 'puncture' hole to be trimmed off. They work fine, but I thought nearly fifty pounds was a bit pricy.
I also found many recommendations to fill the tyres with expanding builders foam - in effect to make them semi-solid - this is also a big mistake. The foam apparently breaks up in use, and tends to agglomerate in one place in the tyre, so you effectively end up riding on an eccentric wheel - and you also cannot get it repaired after doing this! (All this discussion is beginning to make me think the best thing for ride on mowers would be tracks!)
I don't know if this si relevant to the thread. I have a ride-on lawnmower, and use it to cut a field which also has about 100 plum trees. The plum trees have vicious spikes on them, and these inevitably end up on the ground, and of course, then end up in the mower tyres. The tyres puncture extremely easily - they are not made of rubber, but some variety of nylon, and apparently have little or no resistance to penetration. At first I found it was impossible to get them repaired - patches won't stick because of the nylon, and our local tyre repair man tried using plugs, but could not get them to stay in place, because the rubber plugs apparently didn't have enough friction against the nylon tyres.
After much searching, I found a repair kit in the UK that had been imported from the US - it uses a sort of gun to push soft rubber mushroom shaped plugs through the tyre from the outside, head-first, then the tyre pressure forces the expanded plug head into contact with the inside wall of the tyre. It works, but cost 48 pounds about 8 years ago, with sufficient plugs to repair 20 holes. An extra bag of 20 plugs was another 10 pounds.
Eventually, the tyres reached a point where I was putting plugs virtually alongside each other, so I decided to get new tyres - they cost just under 1000 Euros for the four tyres (two large and two small), and that was a (relatively) good offer. I am now going to buy several goats - they have to be cheaper and more efficient!.
I don't want to put you off using these mower tyres, just to give warning. I think if you can get tyres for the 'road-going' type of ATV, then they will be made of rubber, and this problem will not occur, but they may still be expensive.
|Thread: Super Mini Lathe belt problem|
Wasn't it possible/cheaper to make up a new base plate which fitted?.
|Thread: Is CAD for Me?|
Maybe not relevant to the thread, but I found the following info on available CAD systems for linux users which may be useful, since the question of which CAD app to use frequently comes up in this forum.
|Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)|
Just a thought: I know deep-discharge batteries are expensive, and will do the job, but it made me think a bit about what I would call the duty cycle of the loco. I would assume the batteries would be run down to the extent of needing a recharge every time they are used, but how often is the loco used?
I haven't done the figures, but could it not work out more economical to use standard batteries, despite the inability to handle continuous deep discharge, and have two, or even three sets? That would allow for a set in use, and a set charging, which may prevent deterioration occurring too early due to the discharge. I did a quick scan of batteries, and it seems to me that two sets of standard batteries could work out cheaper than one set of deep discharge batteries. This also could mean that early failure of one or more batteries is not so expensive.
I would assume also that during extended periods between the use of the batteries (winter?) then one would need to keep even the deep discharge batteries on some kind of trickle charge.
This thinking also does not take into account how difficult it may be to change a set of batteries 'at the trackside' - I guess if you need to dismantle the loco to do the job, then its a no-go.
I hope this makes sense - it was prompted by me thinking about the ever-increasing cost of items these days - in some ways these hobbies are becoming very expensive, and by the comments in the thread from people who seem happy with standard car batteries.
|Thread: The Chocolate Fireguard as designed by Mercedes Benz|
Vics comment about reliability strikes a chord. For more than ten years I commuted daily between Darmstadt and Stuttgart (home of MB). There always seemed to be noticeably more Mercedes than any other car stopped at the side of the autobahn with their flashers on and an emergency triangle behind them.
Maybe this was because there are a large proportion of Mercedes on German roads, but somehow I don't think that was the reason.
|Thread: How can I change colours in a jpeg?|
Go to Windows Menu and tick ''Single Window Mode' to get one window instead of multiples. The Gimp Download site has documentation which can be downloaded and accessible from the Gimp Help menu. (**LINK**
You will see from the menu for the manual that it is very detailed, and is not too difficult to follow, unlike other expensive commercial offerings which often have no manual.
|Thread: edm machines|
Hi, Bernard - sent you a PM.
|Thread: Testing for isolation|
There was a time I could have done with some insulation - more years ago than I care to remember, I was working on an old rotating coil PPI radar display. (This generated the rotating 'sweep' on the tube by mechanically rotating the coils carrying the sweep generation signal - it was a long time ago!). I was following all the accepted safety rules of the the time - one hand in pocket, nothing dangling loose, etc, etc.
The testing required the power to be on - about 18 kV supply to the tube if I remember correctly. A colleague walked past behind me, and accidentally pushed me - I touched the HV. The resulting shock flung me back against a wall so I cracked my head, and I bit deeply into my tongue. It took about an hour or so to stop shaking, and seeing red and blue spots. I think I was lucky to to suffer more serious injury.
Nothing to do with insulation, but I guess it shows a need to take care with high voltage.
Edited By An Other on 01/02/2019 18:16:29
|Thread: sieg c2 motor|
You could give these people a call in Luxembourg - I have had brilliant service from them.
Their website is multilingual.
(edited for URL)
Edited By An Other on 20/12/2018 19:12:24
|Thread: Cost of deliveries|
To Mark Rand:
This point about lack of a public profile has come up before, and I believe Neil summed it up at the time (to paraphrase) 'its not compulsory'
Personally, I will not post a profile or any other information about myself unless I so choose on any website - I always use a false name, and would never provide an address or contact number. The reason I do not have a profile on this site is because of past abuse, and secondly because of the increasing need for internet security. If I was so inclined, you have already posted sufficient information in your own profile to make it relatively easy for a hacker to start stealing your online identity - your name, and a locality, with some indication of your occupation. I won't provide details for obvious reasons, but it wouldn't be difficult to get an address. and then many other details are easily found. I suggest a little paranoia might provide better protection.
Its easy to say 'rubbish - no-one would do that' I say wait until it happens to you.
If it concerns you so much that you do have personal information on a particular person, you can always send them a PM, and see what that gets you.
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