Here is a list of all the postings Martin Dilly 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Changing a Password|
How can I change my password? I can't see anything on the homepage to help. Any suggestions please?
|Thread: Milling Collet Jammed in Taper|
Success at last! A friend suggested a spot of heat might help. I gave the quill about five minutes blasting with a heat gun, applying it all round the circumference, and a light tap released the collet. The quill was barely warm but that did it.
So thanks, gents, for the suggestions, but there's another one to add in case anyone else has a similar problem.
Thanks, Howard. I've just realised that, even if I can dislodge the collet from the taper it will still have the headless drawbar screwed firmly into its top end! Luckily the Hobbymat mill has a head that can be rotated to about 45 degrees, so it ought to be possible to get the whole thing out.
|Thread: Newbie - Hobbymat MD65 Advice Required|
I know it's a rather old post, but I was a bit concerned too about the fan intake being so close to where I was producing a lot of dural swarf, which occasionally got sucked into the works of the fan motor. I ended up making a very crude sheet ali. shroud that held onto the grille with a magnet, so it could be easily removed if the work in the chuck required the outside of the jaws to protrude so they'd have hit it.
|Thread: Milling Collet Jammed in Taper|
Many thanks again to those who've come up with more possibilities. One difficulty is that the drawbar minus its hex head is jammed in the threaded hole in the top of the collet taper, so the top of that is all I can tap, smite or batter. I suspect its slight flexing when hit may reduce the shock load on the actual collet.
Many thanks, gents, for the replies, and so soon! I'll go and have another try later. Meanwhile a bit of belated Googling suggests that a Y-shaped wedge applied between the business end of the collet chuck and the quill might help to force things apart without applying hammers, lump, lead or otherwise.
Thanks for the input, Bill. I should have mentioned that the cutter is still in the milling collet. As far as I recall each end of the collet is a blind hole anyway. I'll try to get the cutter out anyway; reducing the mass of the whole stuck unit may not be a bad plan anyway, and it'll avoid having to have something soft to catch the thing when/if it eventually comes out.
I have a Hobbymat milling machine with a bit of a problem. After doing some work on a rotary table I now find the milling collet is jammed in the taper. I normally unscrew the drawbar a few turns and give it a slight tap and out it pops. This time nothing happened and when I unscrewed the hex nut on top of the drawbar a bit more the nut came off. I suspect the thread on the nut has stripped to some extent, as when screwing it back on it now just keeps turning.
I thus have only the end of the drawbar to tap. I'm reluctant to use anything harder than my lead hammer, and have left a good squirt of WD-40 in there overnight in the hope that it might seep down and free things up. So far no change.
Any suggestions that don't involve buying a new machine would be most welcome.
|Thread: Hobbymat Saddle Adjustment|
That seems to have tightened things up a lot. Apparently there were two editions of the manual and mine does have the right screw labelling after all.
Next project is a possible fine feed adjustment for the Hobbymat mill; reaching round the back and cranking round the wheel at the top is a bit of a pain, and the pump handle's pretty unreliable.
Many thanks again for your help. You've made an old lathe very happy.
Many thanks for the speedy reply. That seems to coincide with my manual, so maybe there was an earlier edition with the duff gen. I'll go and investigate after a spot of lunch.
The saddle on my Hobbymat shows some vertical play when I lift the topslide. I have the Hobbymat manual but have a dim recollection that I was once told the forcing and clamp screws are numbered the wrong way in the text. It describes the centre Allen screw as the forcing screw (which I assume bears against the far side of the saddle casting) and the outer two as the locking screws (which would be tapped into the far side of the casting to close the gap when tightened). I'm a bit nervous about doing anything too extreme in the way of over-stressing what is probably a fairly fragile casting.
Can anybody please advise?
|Thread: Repairing a Verdict Dial Test Indicator|
Very many thanks for that; should keep me occupied for the next few days. From a quick read it looks as if mine is missing some sort of friction element to make the direction setting lever to stay where it's moved to.
No wonder patent agents charge a lot!
I just spotted a patent number on this, 468,243, and thought that might produce a drawing or some details. However, Googling it bought up several different Verdict guages with completely different mechanisms and no drawings. Another blind alley...
Yes, it really is a Verdict (or so it says on the dial), but I suspect it's pretty elderly, as you suggest. I'll ponder some more. Maybe a trip to a Museum of Bygones...
Thanks for all the advice gents. I'll give it my full attention later.
I've been given an elderly Verdict DTI (lever arm type) which appears to have a fault. The needle fails to return to zero with no load and on opening it I'm unclear how it is supposed to. The hair spring engages with the internal arm, but it's not clear whether the small knob-ended lever does what it should do; it biases the needle one way or the other but there seems to be no other centring action to do this.
I can take a picture but not sure if I can post it here.
Any help would be welcome; seems a shame just to bin it.
|Thread: Possibly Useful Worksurface|
I have used a length of kitchen worksurface as the top of my garage work bench and have another length filling up garage space. It's white with a laminate top and radiused edge, about 1 1/2 inches thick, 2 feet wide and 5 ft. 8 inches long. It's currently living at West Wickham (BR4 0QW), so if it would be of use to anyone, f.o.c., please contact me. Due to size and weight you'd need to collect it yourself.
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