Here is a list of all the postings Peter Russell 4 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warco Mini Lathe|
Now then lads play nicely!!
I have had a much larger response than I had ever expected with varying suggestions.
I have now removed the little plates and rubber swarf scrapers and the problem is more apparent.
Looking from the front the right hand end of the saddle is riding on the lower edge of the angular part but on the left end it is riding on the top and as the flat top is wider than the groove at the top of the slope it jams when adjusted as carefully as possible with the grub screws wound out.
The reason I have discovered for the worst part of the rocking and I hang my head in shame is because I fitted a DRO sensor and thought wrongly I had it clear of the bed now that has been removed its better but not good so its a new saddle from ARC for £19 ish as there is a bow in it where the clamp plate goes.
Once I have this I will update.
Many thanks to all who responded.
Ive had my Warco mini lathe for a few years and have never been able to part off ithout the carriage jumping, the tool jamming and either the parting tool breaking or the belt stripping.
I changed to metal gears quite quickly and brass gibs in the early days.
Ive now stripped the carriage assembly to fit DRO but on re assembly have I think discovered the problem Ive had from day one.
The saddle asembly when clamped down corectly is capable of being rotated a few degrees each way which there is as far a I can see no adjustment for ie no gibbs.
It gives the appearance that the bed V is too narrow or the grove in the saddle is too wide.
The unit is out of waranty and it is pointless considering further re assembly as it will not result in a viable machine.
Any one else had same problem and how did you resolve it.
My current idea is to scrap it and buy new. But not Warco
|Thread: ME Vertical Boiler & Hand Pump|
Were the protection plugs made with a small hole in them - then if they did get soldered in theres a guide hole to drill them out and run a tap through.
Other wise drill out and fit a new bush - put some tippex (typist correction fluid) on the thread that usually stops the solder creeping .
|Thread: Which cutter|
I have some bronze PB102 bar 1/2 in square that needs milling down to 7/16 square.
Its about 3 inches long
Ive previously tried with a 25 and 50 mm face cutter with indexable bits but it was a bit clunky.
What cutter would any one recomend and what approach ie diagonally across or start on one edge and work across the with or straight from one end to the other with a cutter wide enough to cover in one pass.
|Thread: Steam fittings|
Does any one know if any one makes ready made banjo fittings in 3/16 and 1/4 40 me threads for 1/16, 1/8 and 5/32 pipe.
Hi can any one advise on which material to use for a super heater in a model locomotive.
I guess it should be stainless - but which one 304 316 etc
What wall thickness based on 3mm od
How to bend it.
Assuming it will be a single piece bent the joints will be in the smoke box so could they be high temp silver soldered.
Its going in a single flue tube gas fired boiler
Any other advice please
|Thread: ME Vertical Boiler & Hand Pump|
Yes I agree any bush soldered directly into the boiler should be bronze for the reasons you have given
When I say 180 deg that is total rotation - my transmitter allows me to do end to end and centre either way.
there ae sail winch servos that do 2 - 6 or even continuous rotation. look at servo shop web site.
Ive asked Jason to tell me how to attach a picture - Ive made super heater but have not tried it yet
Can you advise how to insert a picture please
Just a small clarification
when the regulator is operated by a servo how far does it open ? standard servos only rotate just over 180 deg
|Thread: Any ideas anyone|
Does any one know where to get a 1/4 x40 ME to 1/8 pipe right angled steam valve that opens fully in half a turn so it can be controled by a radio control servo which only travels just over 180 deg.
Also does any one supply round lagging or is it realy painted string wrapped round?
Pete Russell 4
Admittedly I have not lagged the pipework yet but what would be your views on adding a supperheater as the steam/exhaust is very wet!
I thought if 2 1/8 holes were drilled in the burner bar bush that has the two anti whiste notches filed in it and a legnth of 1/8 pipe could be fed down beside the burner tube coiled to fit the inside of the 22mm pipe beyond the burner.
then couple it up after the lubricator so its between the output of the lubricator and the input of the T under the boiler at the front.
One small thing I forgot where did you get the lagging string from as I cant find it and the only ref I can find is use ordinary string painted white!
Bell crank bolt fig 47
Pressures no where near that low may be 1.5 bar but I have now run it on steam!!!!
So now I eat humble pie- the restrictor rings for the burner bar air are now absent - although I got a bigger flame with them clearly it was not hot enough to raise enough steam to run it on blocks
I reverted to the correct burner tube size.
Burner pressure is about 15 psi
Are you aware that there are 2 versions of the ronson gas valve?
The one in your picture and one where the vent groove is half way down
Ebay Ronson gas valve - the vent its far enough down not to need any slots if thickness of gas tank end plate is ok
Also a chap called Bruno in Sweden makes an adaptor which is M8 fine thread to to any current ronson valve.
Saves a lot of messing about.
Ive been in touch with my local model engineering society in Cheltenham and they can do boiler tests and certification for a membership fee of £30 pa.
They only open on Sunday at this time of year - but will be visiting in next couple of weeks to talk to them about labels and identification.
I closed the shed down last year about this time the walls are already clad with formica boarding above bench level so only realistic thing I can do is lag the roof - but if you will insist on firing a loco up till the SV blows and fills the shed with steam and rain there aint a lot you can do!!!!!
Ive designed a little "tender" for the radio gear and SWMBO is going to assemble it under guidance.
Ive fitted a servo under the cab floor for the throttle but as its only half a turn its not too good - going to see if I can increase the throw to open the valve further - the steam valve is a Roundhouse RC valve.
Well Ive had the chasis running on compressed air after a few minor mishaps!
The eccentric rod 10ba snapped as the outer valve crank pin was too long and hit the hex head screw adjacent.
The screw is now csk and the eccentric link now 2mm and a 10 ba screw opposite the 2mm drive link helping to keep the cam and strap together.
Ive tried making the wood casing but not got a very good result due to getting the angles of the strips right and consistent.
So I have got a spare bit of boiler tube and wrapped a layer of insulation on it then started winding on 6 or 8 layers of mahogany veneer fully glueing each layer. When its dry Ill cut it off the tube as it needs and make the pieces as you did Im also adding a brass cup at each end of the wood to hide the ends.
When I raised steam with the boiler on the hearth in the work shop I got a better more stable flame by blocking both the smaller burner bar air holes and closing half of each of the larger holes. With the holes open the flame tended to only work on 2/3 of the burner bar slots and lift off and blow out.
Hopefully by this time next week I will have run it on my piece of test track and hope SWMBO gets some more track for a Xmas present - well you can hope cant you!!
Then its close the workshop down for the winter its too cold and damp and the machines have to be wrapped up in anti rust paper and polythene sheets after which when the snow melts I can start painting.
MArtin may be its my interpretation as the test is at 20 deg.
Ive sent you a message using message member so I can send you my copy of G1 test spec - did you get it?
as its member only I dont want to put it on general blog.
Ive re built my tank and its held 400 psi quite happily and is now sitting in a jug of water full of gas at 20 deg C and at pressure of 35 psi see test spec. addmitedley it is pure Butane according to the bottle im using by default does not mention any propane in the ingredients.
Stupid question may be - how do you light the burner? its not accesible through the cab so im assuming its through the smoke box door and up the fire tube?
With ref to fig 33 where does the oil trap fit in relation to the hex and square spacers its clearly not attache dto frames and is held in place by 2 silicone tubes and oil trap out let to chimney
The gas tank very slightly bows it s end plates at 400 psi - nothing to write home about though even though they are flanged 16g like the main body tube. Other wise sat there happy for over an hour.
I had not even considered the cab would be ply wood or have any plywood in it - I was just trying to make sure there were no stock deficiecys when the next bit comes out on 5th Oct!!!
The point I was trying to make was the picture 43 shows the input to the Oil trap off centre but the dimension of 0.45 in Fig 52 as near as dam it puts it in the middle ie 0.45 is not right.
Ive never been to a G1 meeting in 2-3 years! may be time I started looking at local clubs so have no knowledge as to how the mark boilers - im using engraved labels soldered on.
Being pedantic! theres no drawing for the water filler straight coupler for the 1/8 pipe from the fill valve to the boiler - I know you can buy one which is what im doing but its frustrating as it slows progress.
New rules say gas tanks to be tested at 20 deg C and limit max temperature in use so may not use heat shunt.
You mention the cladding on the boiler is mahogony strip wood - what size did you use
Also so I can make sure Ive got enough sheet for the cab what thickness is it?
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.