Here is a list of all the postings David Wasson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Making High Speed Steel Injector D Bits|
Excellent idea! Injector D bits from solid HSS.
|Thread: boiler parts|
Yes, the two fittings at the top of the photo are for a water gauge. The two fittings in the lower half of the photo, I am not sure what they are. If they are injectors, they are unlike any that I have seen. No doubt someone else will be able to identify these.
Good tip Pete! In fact, the same goes for all fittings that screw into something and must have a specific orientation.
Here's the parts for a complete valve of this style:
Here it is installed:
If you add an O ring on the valve spindle just under the retaining nut, you will not get any steam blowing out around the spindle when you blow down. Just make sure you open the valve enough to squeeze the O ring.
|Thread: Vertical Injectors|
Nice video Stewart! Thank you!
|Thread: What is the cheapest coal fired live steam locomotive?|
The cheapest will be one that you make yourself. I made mine for only the cost of material and tooling. That is probably not the answer you are looking for. - David
|Thread: 5 inch gauge boiler construction sequence|
Yes, as others have mentioned, you will need to be in contact with the person that will inspect your boiler if you plan to run at a club track. The boiler inspector should be able to help you out with the sequence of construction. One tip is to not solder both ends of the fire tubes too early. This will cause great stress on the boiler if both ends are fixed before the majority of the construction is done.
In general, the construction is done from the center of the boiler towards the outside. Starting with the throat plate to the outer wrapper and boiler barrel.
Here's a link to my 5" gauge boiler build, it is on several pages, so, you will have to search a little to get the entire build. Here's the first page: **LINK**
|Thread: Drivng Trolley|
Ride On Railways makes some nice equipment. I have one of their driving trolleys and am quite happy with it, they even made it for my gauge, 4-3/4". They make trolleys for both ground level and elevated tracks.
|Thread: axle box lubrication|
Yes, 3/32" will work fine for oil lines if the I.D. is about 1/16". The K&S 3/32" copper tube works fine for oil lines. This is what I used on my Super Simplex. There are no provisions for oil line placement in the drawings, so, you have to use your own imagination. Although the general arrangement shows oil boxes on the front side of the water tanks,
I used small oil cups mounted between the boiler and running boards. A separate cup for each main bearing and one to drip oil into a cup on the axle pump eccentric. The difficult bearings to get to are the ones under the fire box. I mounted oil cups for these in the cab, making the oil lines a bit simpler than if they came from a cup further forward on the loco. In the bottom of each cup is a small punching of wool felt, this keeps the oil from running all out of the pipe. Once the pipe is filled with oil, two drops in the cup will cause two drops out of the end of the pipe. Gravity feed works fine. The pipe should protrude a bit from the inside bottom face of the horn block, otherwise the oil will go everywhere rather than dripping into the "cup" on the top of the axle block.
If you make a "box" rather than cups, make a separate oil cavity for each delivery. That way you can know if each line is delivering oil. If it is one large reservoir in the box, you will not know if some lines are delivering more or less than another.
I am in the process of painting my loco this winter. Part of the painting project is to finish some of the last details, this includes creating a formal oil system. I hope the photos will help suggest a solution for you.
Edited By David Wasson on 10/01/2019 00:29:16
|Thread: Simplex water gauge connections.|
If your boiler inspector has signed off on your suggestion of a T in the supply for the manifold, then, that is the final word on the subject, at least as far as getting your loco running on your club track.
A few things to do and notice, as others have suggested, that the level in the glass may be affected by other accessories connected to the T. Note the water level in the glass with any of these accessories turned off, like the blower or the injector, and see what happens to the water level when they are turned on. As long as you are aware of what is going on, you should be fine. Just don't forget that the water level may be something different than what is shown.
Indeed, my water gauge is made to the drawings of Martin Evans. It is made exactly like most conventional water gauges for 5" gauge locomotives. There are no isolation valves to be sure, and, neither does the one shown at the beginning of this thread. This is typical for this size water gauge and is not required. What is required though, is the blow down valve, clearly, both of these gauges have this.
What to do if you break the glass? Put a rag over the smoke stack and turn on the blower, the fire will got out quickly. If you break your water gauge glass, you will have to put out the fire in any case. I would not want to reach in close to a water gauge to operate miniature valves while steam is coming out right next to them.
The boiler will have to be shut down with or without isolation valves as you now have no water gauge.
I'm still not sure how folks break their water gauge glass. I have shoveled lots of coal into my fire box and do not even come close to touching the water gauge. I suppose anything is possible.
The person that built the boiler in the above photo probably piped the water gauge this way because it was easier than what the drawing called for. This was also probably done in ignorance. Both ends of the water gauge should have their own separate fittings completely independent of all other fittings. As you can see in my photo, the top end fitting of a Simplex water gauge requires more than just "piping it up to the steam manifold"
|Thread: regulator material|
Philip, you are so welcome! I'm glad you have found the link useful. - David
Yes, the bore for the seat is straight though, no taper. For the thread on the valve, I used a 1/2"-13. When you turn the regulator handle, it is full open at about 1/4 turn. I made it a right hand thread, as I wanted the regulator to open when you turn the handle anti-clockwise. Farther than this does not really change the steam flow. This is the drawing for the regulator in my Super Simplex. - David
You will find more photos of my regulator at my website. Scroll down about a quarter of the page.
Edited By David Wasson on 17/11/2018 13:56:35
Yes, bronze for the seat and stainless for the valve works quite well. - David
I have not made a regulator for a Tich, but, I have made a screw down regulator that works quite well. Here's a link to a post here on this forum about screw down regulators including several photos and drawings:
|Thread: Super Simplex & First Time Builder's Website|
Thank you so much! I am having a lot of fun with this locomotive. It is not quite done yet, it mostly needs to have the painting and lining finished. That will happen this coming winter.
Today was the Fall Open House for my club, The Finger Lakes Live Steamers. I hauled many many little kids at the event and we'll do it again tomorrow. Everything worked well on the loco, (fingers crossed for tomorrow!).
|Thread: How long to build?|
More than anything else, building a live steam locomotive is an exercise in time management. During the first three years of construction, I averaged 2 hours in my shop, every day, working on the locomotive. Some days more hours, and some days none. But, on average, it has been 2 hours every day. I started waking up 1 hour earlier than normal so I could get in an hour of locomotive work, before heading off to my real job.
I started making the frames in June of 2015. The chassis first ran on compressed air in February of 2016. So, about 9 months to get it running on air, or about 540 hours.
The first steam test to the chassis was in April of 2016. The steam was supplied by a small boiler that I use to run my stationary steam engines. In order to get the chassis ready for live steam, there were a few things that had to be done in addition to what needed to be done for operating on air. Some of the additional things were the installation of the lubricator pump and the cylinder drain valves.
It was in May of 2017 that the locomotive was officially steam certified and operating with it's own boiler at the Finger Lakes Live Steamers track in Western New York. About 23 months, or, about 1400 hours from start, to operating on it's own boiler.
I have been running the locomotive since May of 2017 even though it was, and is, far from finished. After I got it running on it's own boiler, most of the work has been getting the water tanks, plate work and many little details finished.
The locomotive is nearly complete mechanically. I hope to paint the locomotive during the winter of 2018-2019. Currently, I have about 2000 hours into the build. This is actually the sort of number of hours that has been quoted to me by several people. If this were a particularly detailed locomotive, I think that number could go much higher. Also, if you have no experience with machine tools, the number will be much higher.
I plan to not work so much on the locomotive this year (2018) and do more of running it on my club track, working out any remaining bugs, and visiting a few other tracks. More fun, less work!
Building a steam locomotive was not my objective, just a necessary evil if I was to ever own and operate one. I also wanted to be able to answer honestly, "yes" to anyone that asked me, "did you build this loco" and "did you build the boiler?"
Here's a link to my website that has a few tips on getting your loco in steam as quickly as possible. (Assuming you are like me and would rather be operating your loco rather than building it!)
Traditionally, the acid for cleaning copper has been sulfuric acid, which is basically battery acid like found in a car battery. Another acid, but much safer, is acetic acid. You can find it at a grocery store and is used for canning. It is a food product and is completely safe, that is to say, it won't eat holes in your clothes and the fumes will not rust your nearby tools. Sulfuric acid will though. You can also put your hands right in the solution without fear, if you have any cuts or abrasions on your hands, it will let you know about them! Acetic acid is probably not as aggressive as sulfuric acid, but, if you are willing to let a part soak overnight, or for a few hours, it works just as well and is so much safer. The cleaning on my copper boiler between soldering events, was done entirely with acetic acid.
I successfully built a 1" scale copper boiler, 5" barrel diameter and 19" long. All silver soldered and all parts cleaned with acetic acid. I bought two plastic bins large enough to totally immerse the boiler in. One bin had the acid, the other had fresh water. The stronger the solution, the quicker it will do the cleaning.
|Thread: Beginners 7 1/4" gauge loco advice sought|
Looks like a wonderful track you have! I did not see any diagram of the layout at the web site, but, two miles is quite the track!
Time to get cracking so you can enjoy your own loco on that track. Stay focused!
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