Here is a list of all the postings jann west has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Aluminium welding|
If your casting is ali, and small-ish, then you will probably find that building up with (TIG) won't be the experience you expect from steel.
Ali welding on small parts doesn't go so well due to the thermal transfer issues - namely aluminium transfers heat too well - and castings tend to be a little disappointing on the material front. YMMV
You would probably do well considering some form of other solution - if it's out of center perhaps you could sleeve it and re-bore ...
I know it seems logical to just overfill with ali and fix from there - but even (really) good ali welders struggle with that ... due to the nature of the material.
I've been there and got the t-shirt ... and watched much better ali welders and I fail in similar circumstances.
|Thread: Resistance Soldering question|
If your insurance won't allow oa welding (because of acetylene) you can always try oxy propane as a fuel ... not quite as hot ... but still pretty hot for soldering and brazing. Also you could try jewelers micro tig welding systems. Welding and soldering is about heat management (and the effects of entropy so fiddily jibs like yours may benefit from a hybrid solution ... eg holding the body in a clamp, applying heat from a flame two or three at tactical points near the weld site to raise general temperatures in the vicinity, then using intense localised heat for the actual welding function. If you don't have 9 hands then tactical clamps can hold gas torches.
|Thread: Total Beginner|
When you ask a question like this it is only polite to offer to buy popcorn !
|Thread: Any interesting lathe projects for beginners?|
South Bend produced an entire book of them, which I have linked to before: **LINK**
As much as you might not find a (soft faced) hammer interesting, it offers a chance to practice marking out, turnng, facing, taper turning between centers, knurling, screw cutting, spotting, drilling (boring? depending on size) and internal screw cutting. The resultant object can further be beautified through the use of various metals with different finishes, and through graving.
A finely finished hammer is something which can be simultaneously beautiful, useful, and a demonstration of an uncommon and useful skill which few today possess. I'd go so far to say that you are not a "real" machinist unless you have made your own machinist's hammer.
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
As the filter is to be replaced it can be destroyed ... i have previously hammered a screwdriver through an inaccessible filter to aid in purchase and hammered it gently to apply turning force . Ymmv
|Thread: Warco lathe mill attachment|
The general comment on these additions is that they are disappointing - they lack sufficient rigidity ... However the reason I didn't buy one, and instead opted to get the separate version with base, is that the effective x space on the combination machine is very small - that little tee-slot table on the cross slide is tiny compared to a typical mill table, (and the reconfiguration to use it is annoying). Thus the effective workholding envelope is, to my mind, insufficient to be worth the effort - however if you only intend to occasionally work on small items this may not be such an issue for you.
I think there are better ways to spend £615
|Thread: be careful out there people!|
so ... stupid question time. I understand what the issues are in the original post, but this has me confused: "All operatives will keep one hand in their pocket at all time when working on open switchgear. BTH/AEI/GEC-Machines Rugby safety book."
Why one hand in their pocket? Is it so you can't form an earth to something you are touching with your other hand?
|Thread: Myford 7 Capacity Check|
J A Radford has an elevating head for the Myford in "improvements and accessories for your lathe" TEE Publishing 1998 (from p 57)
It's not a small job, though!
|Thread: sieg mill: normal chuck or collet chuck?|
Kinda depends on whether you want to mill or drill, doesn't it.
Drill chuck is adequate for drilling. Collets for any any all milling - if for no other reason than safety. But you can use a collet chuck to hold drills also, so there's that!
Unless your milling wood ... you can probably do that with a drill chuck in reasonable safety - but I wouldn't.
|Thread: Natural gas for TIG welding|
John you really should consider the helium bagpipe solution i suggested back in early april.
|Thread: A simple indexer|
might be cheaper to just buy a 5c spin indexer and a 5c - er25 adapter
and a 5c - er25 adapter
Although not nearly as much fun
|Thread: Natural gas for TIG welding|
Missing the point - he doesn't want to use Argon ... I get it ... Argon is a PITA - you need to go to the welding supply to buy it, and the bottles are expensive to rent.
A quick peruse of the periodic table of the elements suggests Helium might also be a viable alternative ... you can buy it from your local party supply shop in balloons - you just need to fabricate up an adapter - change out your balloon every few inches of bead, and Bob's your auntie
If you do a lot of welding your could fix up a multi-balloon supply with on old set of bagpipes ... you just need to give the bag a small squeeze every few times you dip your filler
|Thread: 3 Jaw self centering ER chuck|
also worth noting that this setup would allow the easy integration of a depth stop through the back-end of the headstock spindle ... something typically considered an advantage of the 5c over the ER collet.
|Thread: J&S 540 Manual PDF|
well ... since you now have a copy, why don't you upload a link to it so other people can benefit, rather than having to pay the other side of £50 for something which is, essentially, free, from someone who is, in the nicest possible way (because I do value the lathes.co.uk site), a copyright opportunist.
|Thread: Turning Welded steel|
To be fair, JS was mig welding with a known quality of filler wire ... I assume he was choosing a filler wire which would turn, given the face he did this more than occasionally.
|Thread: Breaking drive belts on super mini|
on the topic of parting off ... parting off tools can be very finnicky about being 100% dead on perpendicular ... even a little out and the deeper you go the more you rub on the side. Also, topslide rigidity is a concern in minilathes!
|Thread: Another what is it|
|Notsure if everyone is making a joke or if it is actually an adjustable wrench|
|Thread: Clarke metalworkers 6speed|
much like the above comments - seems expensive unless it's particularly well kitted out. Even then the machine itself is not a particularly great example of far east engineering. For not much more and a little patience on eBay or Gumtree you can get a more recent and well specified Sieg lathe, or something older from Emco.
|Thread: Unknown machinist's vise - info requested|
Those record auto vices come up semi-frequently on ebay in all three sizes (imp, 74, and 75) ... I've bought a few for various tasks through the site.
|Thread: Increasing cost of entry into model engineering|
also ... your timeframe is semi-charmed ... 20 years ago it was almost unknown for a hobbiest to have a milling machine at home ... most milled in a lathe with a vertical workpiece holder ... let alone all the other neat dodads we can buy for not much from ebay (TIG, etc.)
All this stuff I used to salivate over I can now order for mao's tool emporium, and it arrives on my doorstep in a week.
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