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Member postings for Steve Kingsley 1

Here is a list of all the postings Steve Kingsley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Elliott Jig Borer spare parts
20/06/2019 00:59:27

Hi Gwilym,

Here's a link to some more pictures. I'm on my phone at the mo so not sure how to upload to my album.

**LINK**

Cheers

Steve

17/06/2019 17:28:39

Hi Gwilym,

Hope this helps. Happy to take some measurements.

20190617_130953.jpg

20190617_131017.jpg

20190617_131028.jpg

20190617_131039.jpg

20190617_131054.jpg

16/06/2019 12:06:19

Hi, I've recently bought a Downham Mini Borer which I believe is the same as the Elliott. It has the feed lever so if I can provide you with any photos and measurements let me know. It looks to be made of brass or bronze.

Cheers

Steve

Thread: Lifting and moving a Downham Jig Borer
11/06/2019 13:50:01

Well just to follow up, thanks for the replies. It did finally get moved in ok. I went with pulling it upright with the crane and then proceeding to lift it with slings around the column. The weight seemed at the limit of my home made gantry which started to flex and twist in a way I wasn't comfortable with, so in the end the pallet truck did most of the work. I blocked up the platform outside the door and then, with nothing to spare height wise, gingerly rolled it into the workshop.

Link to some other images: https://photos.app.goo.gl/TFwivConnqYPvVuh6

Having now purchased the full set of documents from lathes.co.uk for this machine I now have the info on the correct way to lift the machine, which involves two eye bolts that screw into the rear of the base, and a 1" steel bar under the front tray. The does look a lot safer.

Not sure if anyone else has any info to share on this machine but I think I'll start a thread to document how I get on with set-up and use. Next step is to wire up a VFD as it's 3phase. I've investigated a little and so far the accuracy all seems ok. Looks like it's been modified at some point to use DA180 collets so more to learn about that.

Cheers for now

Steve

23/05/2019 10:35:14

Thanks for the replies. Good to know that I can safely lift at the head when locked down. My original plan was to split it but the wires to the motor go via the switch on the stand. I thought it would be "easier" not to mess with the wiring but I think that I should have split it first off.

The pallet is ok with the weight on it but lifting with it, it starts to bend and make disturbing cracking sounds.

I think I might go with trying to lift it to standing position then split and deal with each bit. That should help getting though the door as there's 1/2in clearance on the frame.

Cheers

Steve

23/05/2019 00:22:42

Hi,

I wonder if anyone has any suggestions to help me lift a Downham mini jig borer. When I picked it up the seller was very helpful and loaded it onto a pallette and into the van on a forklift. However I'm having a bit more trouble than expected at this end.

My equipment is: home built gantry crane, a 2 ton pallette truck. 1 ton chain lift, 5 short webbing slings and 1 long one. Plus random ropes and webbing etc

I think my main problems are concerns over where to safely attach to without risking damage to the machine, and the fact that it wants to tip and roll like crazy. It's currently laying on its side on a pallette. I need to get it up over a 10in concrete slab and then up 10 inch step into my workshop.

This is the forth time with this equipment, first (and second, but that's a longer story) with a Warco WM280V lathe and also an old Newing Hall Pantocut. In theory that was heavier but also seemed designed with lifting points in the castings. This Jig Borer has none of that. When the chap lay it down, he locked off the moving head to the column and lifted with that?? Is that ok? The last thing I want to do is damage it, as it's in lovely condition.

I've linked to some pictures of the current machine and also one of the crane in use moving the lathe in its crate.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZvNzN346yTj9z6ZR6

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Thread: Twisted lathe bed - Portass Model S
29/11/2017 00:17:01
So I started the disassembly and have found something unexpected (to me at least). The lathe spindle (mandrel?) has a taper to it on the external diameter. Is this normal?

I was looking at how to reduce the play (.004") in the spindle thinking I'd need to make new bushings however if it's tapered, is it designed to just move back with wear? There's a bronze/brass thrust bearing/washer that could (in theory) be made thinner to allow the spindle to seat further in and take up the slop. Is this by design would you say?? Seems like a great idea if it is here's a link to the spindle photo and dimensions https://photos.app.goo.gl/YmlTbMV35l4bNXlx2

Edited By Steve Kingsley 1 on 29/11/2017 00:18:50

16/11/2017 19:32:26
Hi Clive, thanks for the detailed reply. I shall see what I can do with method 3. Do I take it that you mean removing the spindle and the tail stock ram?
15/11/2017 18:38:33
Hi Clive,

Could you point me to any info on how I might do that? Eg where to mount the DTI, on the saddle? do I need an accurate bar in the spindle etc.

Thanks
15/11/2017 13:29:56
Thanks again for all the feedback.
I wasn't sure where the bonfire idea was going or if that was toung in cheek.

To address Richards question, yes it's rocking when placed upsidedown on the surface plate.

I've mapped the ways with the lathe right side up on its feet on the surface plate. Am I correct in thinking that if the bed were flat, the low to high relative difference in each way would be the same regardless of the machine not being set parallel to the surface plate?
I planned to double check by inverting the lathe on parallels, on the plate, and taking DTI readings from underneath.
I don't have a mill or access to one so I'm not sure if I can address that much error by hand. I acquired this as learning project with only a few non critical jobs. I do quite enjoy seeing how far I can take something like this where I learn a lot of problem solving on the road to a better machine.
No sympathy required, I'm just grateful for any advice from more experienced people.
15/11/2017 00:30:10
Oh and I'm in Norwich. And here's a pic of the foot on the surface plate.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lsKwm7nxK81w7cgn1

I don't have one of the welding but yes I did think I would try to remove it with a dremmel. The steel tube has been cut of from the stand.

PS. Not sure how to post pics that show in line.
15/11/2017 00:19:46
Thanks for the feedback. It's a little hard to show in pictures but I'll try.

First here's a link to a video. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvQ8HaXgjrMr7PE72

And two photos. I've tried to keep the cammera fixed

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NSrwg86QFnvjSDm32

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZL86hJG6ZyD2v3KJ3

I've started taking some measurements with an indicator so I'll add those. Relative to the surface plate, one side goes from 0 to +24.5 thou the other goes from -4 to +2.5 thou. So pretty extreme. Is it a lost cause?
14/11/2017 16:51:52
Hi,

I'm quite new to engineering as a hobby though I have some past exposure to it while working with my dad.
I've recently acquired a small be too lathe which seems to be identified to the one on the largest site page for Woolner lathe, though the casting has Portass.
My main problem is that I've started to break it down to clean and check over for wear and I've found that the ways are significantly twisted. Planting it ways down on my surface plate shows that it rocks on opposite corners. I've not indicated it to verify how much but it seems a fair bit.
It seems to have been booked to a steel frame abs also (shock) the frame had been welded to the headstock casting
What are the options for correcting it? Bolt it to something to attempt to reverse the twist or find a way to mill/grind/scrape it back into flat.
Any advice much appreciated, even if it is that I bought a 🍋
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