Here is a list of all the postings Bill Davies 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Why are insert toolholders so expensive?|
Regarding the angled lathe tools, if Hacksaw saw old brazed carbide tools, the carbide was very brittle and zero or positive rake angles would crumble. Years ago, I worked on a cutter grinding section, and had to re-sharpen batches of these on a double-ended diamond wheel.
|Thread: Any 5" Gauge Ground Level Turntable Articles or Advice?|
Chris, I don't know the weight of a 5 inch gauge loco (plus coal and water), plus track and support structure, but I expect that the 1000 lb. capacity is for a nicely balanced load. It looks like sheet metal, and might distort under a bending load. The circular ring you suggest would be a good idea, or a lower concrete ring with castor wheels might be easier to achieve.
Or perhaps an oversize lazy susan? I think it would require some peripheral bearings to take the weight of track and locomotive.
|Thread: Dumb question from a none driver|
with reference to: https://www.askthe.police.uk/content/Q743.htm
Essentially, your son is the keeper (the user), and would be fined for, say, speeding.
You are the owner, but not the keeper, so you would be advised to have your son as named keeper, to avoid paying for such offences.
Ownership is a separate issue, and would be proven in a different way. For example, if you had the seller sign something to say ownership is transferred to you, or alternatively, there would be evidence of a bank payment to the seller.
|Thread: Grinding your own lathe cutters|
Back when I was in industry, we made large HSS tools. It was considered very bad to have any grinding burns. On the other hand, other sites have reported brazing HSS onto shanks.
If off-hand grinding, it's considered good practice to avoid heating too much, with frequent dipping into a can of coolant, or alternatively to grind dry. The issue is more about thermal shock causing small cracks, rather than causing a tempering or annealing of the material.
|Thread: Floor Paint|
Neil, I have found Dulux acrylic paint to be tougher than other water-based types, although I haven't tried it on floors.
My one experience with Valspar was when B&Q first introduced it, I had a batch made up to match wallpaper colour, but when it dried, it felt slightly textured, like a fine version of sandtex. The colour was fine, and it was used on radiators (not specified for that) but hasn't discoloured.
|Thread: Cleaning a straightedge|
I also find the green kitchen ones are abrasive, leading to find scratches on tea spoons leading to more rapid accumulation of tea stains. On a separate tack, I have found that Cif is abrasive, in spite of claims to the opposite, a soft abrasive that breaks down easily (chalk?) and I think it contains an alkali. It is an effective cleaner for greasy things, though, only needs a spot or two.
|Thread: Surplus subjects learnt at school.|
I have found that I used pretty much everything I learned at school; I can't say whether that was the planned outcome. My wife studied Latin (and French and German) and I have found her useful to have a first stab at explaining the meaning of some arbitrary word. In this regard, she is replaced by Google translate.
I worked for a multinational firm for some years, learned some Italian post-school, which proved useful to break some ice and get a little credibility, although four years of school French provided less benefit. However, I feel that was my fault. On occasions I have used most of the Maths learned at school and college.
My generation (at least in Surrey, or was it all of England) didn't learn Biology (if you were a boy, otherwise it was Physics that was unavailable to you). A loss now, I wish I understood more, it seems quite useful.
A Computer Science degree in my thirties provided knowledge not taught at school, would it have been available when I was at school? So it seems from earlier comments that we might have benefited from whatever we were taught, but we value more that which we learned later. Perhaps we were becoming more responsible in our learning?
|Thread: Determining the correct gear pitch for a given rack|
Adam, if you have some dowels or pins of a suitable and identical size to sit about halfway down in the tooth space, you can measure over the pins, over a distance of several teeth. Subtract the diameter of one pin, and divide by the number of teeth, less one (i.e., counting from zero).
By converting into appropriate units you can look up the pitch on a table of metric Module sizes, or diametral pitch (DP) for inch sizes.
Hopefully, this should get you started:
|Thread: Graham Howard and Brunell Steam Model Engineering|
Sadly, these problems go back a decade or more:
|Thread: Safety of phone chargers|
Thanks, Phil. I used to run an apprentice school in the 1970s, and taught mech eng apprentices more recently. The extent of down-skilling is quite scary. I had thick textbooks for each subject/unit I was taught in the late '60s, today a slim booklet covers all units. And it started before my time; the 1930s and '50s books I picked up from older colleagues were harder than mine. Plus those that worked and studied during the war has reasons and motivation to be well-educated.
And trained as a mechanical engineer, we were taught that electrics were things we didn't touch (three phase industrial voltages), although I did an HNC electrics/electronics unit, which covered quite a lot.
I'm no electrician, but I think I read that the ring main was introduced, post-war, as a cheaper solution due to the lack of copper for wire. The ring main has two routes for the electricity to reach the socket, until there is a failure in one arm of the circuit, when the entire current must follow the alternate route. This will not be as large a wire gauge as a spur, so may overheat. I'm not sure is there is a straightforward test for a 'broken' ring main without examining connections. Sorry, this is off-topic.
|Thread: Would you mesh with this?|
The gear rolling tester takes me back a bit ... Sorry to see inspection equipment so rusty (or any equipment, for that matter). You would require a master gear (or a very good one that's accurately concentric with its bore) to gave readings that you could interpret.
Making up a probe (a ball or a rack tooth) and test around the circumference of the gear would give you similar information. The clearance of the gear's bore with the central shaft would have an effect. Might not be useful for horological gears, though!
|Thread: Rulers - my pet peeve|
Spurry's rule rings a bell (some way back). I once had a hardwood rule with 'triangular' divisions, I think it was an NPL (National Physical Laboratory) design. A great rule but eventually was broken. I found it much easier to read than graduations of the same length (which I think are always too long). And I agree with all the previous comments about 1/2 mm graduations, but perhaps that's also the 'too long' problem..
Edited By Bill Davies 2 on 03/04/2019 21:48:49
|Thread: Chester 626 and Warco VMC spindle size|
Given that MT tooling will be pulled in using the draw bar, is there a risk that a de-tanged drill might be very difficult to eject? I'm presuming that these spindles don't have a slot for a drill drift. A morse taper tool, jammed in, in the usual way, can have a fearsome grip due to the wedging action.
Edited By Bill Davies 2 on 02/04/2019 17:13:33
|Thread: Soft Feel Finish on Radio|
I have it on a number of items. I bought several pairs of Lidl's Bresser binoculars several years ago, they are all tacky. A dirt cheap mains drill (from B&Q? a decade ago??), the body is hard plastic but other bits are artificial rubber (including the strain relief grommet) and all went tacky. They are now falling apart. Poor materials, or the future green world where everything is biodegradable.
I can remove most of the stickiness on the binoculars using washing up liquid, but not all. They are stored in their original boxes, perhaps this is bad? But the stickiness returns. I have assumed it was the plasticisers leaking out, and presumably the next stage is the plastic falling apart, just like the power drill.
I have also tried dusting with talc, but it doesn't look good, plus it is not a permanent cure.
|Thread: What is this grinder?|
I'd agree with the description as a lathe tool grinder. Many years ago, working on a tool grinding section, I used similar grinders for sharpening brazed carbide lathe tools, and one grinder had a diamond wheel, for finishing the tool. The trough is for water, although people seem to deprecate its use now. We didn't allow the work to get too hot before cooling in the water just to keep them cool enough to hold. No gloves were used for holding the tool. I think we had double-ended versions, and although hard to judge, the ones I used was larger (8 inch wheel?).
|Thread: Boxford Screwcutting box / Leadscrew binding|
Perhaps my PC has a virus or malware, but the Boxford manual link asks me to install an exe file, 'ReimageRepair.exe' which my Norton Security flags as a file that could harm my computer. I attempted this twice, but did not download the file.
|Thread: Anyone got a hydrogen generator?|
Hi, Ian. You've probably found these too:
A couple of manuals for potassium hydroxide electrolyte (different makes, using similar technologies):
I hope this is relevant and useful,
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