Here is a list of all the postings SillyOldDuffer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Coke for brazing purposes|
Is coke generally available? Last time I looked to buy some it was unobtainium in small quantities. (I did find a local coal merchant selling it by the ton.) Coke was common when domestic gas was made by baking coal but we all burn natural gas now. Now coke is specially made for steelworks etc and doesn't seem to be sold as ordinary fuel in bags. Or at least I couldn't find any!
Coke being porous and mostly carbon makes it a good insulator for hot work. Good stuff if you can find it. I'd look at Vermiculite instead, not because it's marvellous or cheap, but because it's available.
|Thread: Changing chucks on Harrison L140|
That's because it's not obvious! The forum doesn't allow users to rotate photos online so orientation has to be checked and fixed by the user before they are uploaded.
Although it's usually obvious to an intelligent human which way is 'up', a camera has to guess. Any confusion caused is further compounded by digital photos having 4 or 5 different ways of recording orientation which display software can misunderstand or ignore entirely. Mostly it works, but we live an imperfect world.
The cure is to view pictures in an Image Editor before uploading into an Album. If the editor displays wrongly or issues a warning, then the picture can be rotated and saved. Saving writes the human perception of 'THIS WAY UP' unambiguously into the image, and the forum gets it right. Most image editors seem to work, but there's always the possibility of one of them being eccentric too!
Quite a good example why I don't believe in 'common-sense'. Orientation seems obvious to us, but it's not. Right, Left, Up and Down all depend on the ability to sense an agreed frame of reference. If in the UK you believe 'Up' is overhead, then Australia really is upside-down. Or perhaps we are!
|Thread: Two weeks wasted|
It seems rather a lot of locomotive plans come with more or less serious errors. LBSC was a genius and tremendously proud of providing all the "Words and Music" necessary to build his designs. Except he didn't! He didn't always do a good job!
LBSC's output certainly includes engines planned and built by him where most of the bugs were corrected before publication. And the plans for his popular engines, widely discussed, are likely to be reliable too. At the other end of the scale, particularly later in life, LBSC published descriptions of engines that may never have been built, perhaps because he was exploring ideas rather practicalities.
Plans for some of LBSC's engines might be incomplete or wrong. Other engine designers seem to have done much the same, ranging from good to bad as time and talent permitted. I suspect many engines were planned with mild errors that were fixed on the job, and the designer never got round to correcting the drawings. And then there's human error - forgetting bits, getting the dimensions wrong, and otherwise failing to translate 3D into 2D correctly.
I'm not unsympathetic to chaps describing engines. It's not easy. Having attempted some design work myself, I'm of the opinion that producing a good design with accurate plans and effective documentation is more difficult than making the object itself.
The forum is a good place to ask before building an engine, and a club should be pure gold. Nothing like the advice of someone who knows the ropes. Not only will they know if the plans are OK or not, they can comment on how difficult construction is and how well the finished engine will perform.
Generally, I don't trust hobby plans much. I often redraw bits of them to confirm my understanding and their accuracy. Nothing massively formal - a quick sketch is often enough to clarify issues. Other times I've been obliged to fully explore parts and their relationships with CAD; modelling in 3D on a computer often reveals details I don't see on the 2D plan.
Maybe dicky plans are all part of the fun. I don't see it that way...
Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 22/10/2019 15:44:55
|Thread: WM 280V lathe with inverter drive advice|
Yes, I upgraded from a mini-lathe to a WM280VF, and it's quite an improvement!
The machine, stand and extras arrived on the same pallet, so quite big, perhaps1300mm by 1000mm and heavy!
The man (a local delivery driver, not a Warco employee) unloaded the package with a manual pallet truck and wheeled it up a short tarmac drive into my single garage. I didn't have to cope with a garden path or steps. Then I broke into the package and dismantled it. Removing the stand parts and accessories leaves a more manageable plywood box about 1300 x 600 x 600mm. The splash back was bolted to the back of the lathe, making lifting it out a little awkward: it can be removed if necessary.
Four strong blokes should be able to safely lift the lathe, but rehearse and take care. I did it all myself with assistance from my daughter. I bought an Engine Crane; you might prefer to hire one. It makes lifting easy and safe but they're not very manoeuvrable. I came slightly unstuck because there wasn't quite enough room to turn the crane through 90 degrees and drop the lathe against the wall. (It would have been possible had I not wasted a foot by temporarily stacking stuff along the wall.) A happy accident, because having the lathe sideways makes it really easy to change gears and get at the controls and electrics through the back access panel. Think about access to the headstock end before plonking it into a tight space.
Dropping the lathe on the stand was slightly tricky because the lift point is close under the headstock, which means the splay legs of a crane tend to foul the stand bases. Balance is an issue. The lathe is top-heavy, with most of the weight at the headstock end, and the heavy motor tends to tip it backwards. You don't want it spinning or sliding in the sling. One person moving the crane while another guides the lathe into alignment with the stand's bolt holes is much simpler than one person attempting it.
When positioning the sling or ropes, position them under the bed and behind the leadscrew, making sure they won't snag or crush delicate parts like the toolpost.
It's the sort of job that's intimidating the first time, but is much easier the second time.
I'll leave what to do if there's no room for a crane to someone else! Perfectly possible using rollers and blocks...
Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 22/10/2019 13:14:52
|Thread: Pratt Burnerd 4 jaw Chuck jaw alignment|
Probably not - I don't think centrifugal force is strong compared with the forces applied by a cutter or grinder ploughing into four hardened steel jaws. Never tried it myself but the book method suggests forcibly opening the outside of the jaws into a steel ring. Then the jaws are firmly held whilst leaving plenty of room to get at their gripping faces.
|Thread: Turning a recess in the end of a bar|
I'd drill a 13mm / 1/2" hole of the required depth and then open it out to full diameter with a boring bar. That's assuming the work is short enough to be held in a chuck or the lathe can take a long 40mm diameter bar through the spindle!
If not, to deal with a long bar, I'd take the tailstock off, clamp the bar to height on the saddle, and bore the end recess with a cutter spinning in the chuck. I could probably do a 1500mm long bar that way, before the far end hit the wall, but the method is only limited by the need to support the free end of the bar and plenty of room beyond the tailstock end. (Which I don't have unless I turn the lathe through 90 degrees and open a door!)
My problem is, how does a lazy bloke with no money get someone else to sort out the brambles he's allowed to take over his garden. As it's I nice day I've been forced to tackle it this morning, and I HATE GARDENING.
Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 22/10/2019 12:22:50
|Thread: Warco GH1224 Wiring Diagram|
Failure of a suppressor capacitor would explain the symptoms. The poor things are connected directly from Line to Neutral and from Line and Neutral to Earth. Although specially rated for this purpose (X and Y), they do go pop.
They fail by causing a short circuit, but it's only temporary because the capacitor's innards vaporise like a blown fuse. The brief short is plenty enough to cause a trip, but because capacitors usually die open-circuit everything appears normal when power is reapplied.
The purpose of the capacitors is to stop any Radio Frequency excrement produced by the machine being broadcast via the mains wiring. They stop the machine blotting out radio, tv and communications services.
It's a good theory, except John
Edit, silly mistake corrected thanks to John Hinkley!
Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 22/10/2019 11:24:53
|Thread: Stepper power for autofeed on lathe|
I believe the bandwidth limit on a Free Dropbox account is 10Gb/day. The photo I used as an example is 1.3Mb, so about 8000 downloads of that would do the mischief. (8000 downloads isn't much in web terms.)
Phil needn't panic though : since he started his thread, it's averaged about 260 views per day, quite respectable but not Top of the Pops. Putting the same Dropbox pictures on a busy thread like 'What did you do today' would be more risky, though I think all Dropbox does is send 404 Errors until next day's ration becomes available.
Bit of research into how Dropbox manages images has revealed all. Although Dropbox shared links look just like ordinary web image source URLs, they aren't! They actually activate a management layer inside Dropbox that presents the image, as I suggested earlier, as one of many. In consequence Dropbox links can't be embedded successfully in a webpage because Browsers expect a single raw image. To keep the Browser happy it's necessary to bypass Dropbox's management layer.
One solution suggests it can be done changing the query string from, for example,
Didn't work for me, perhaps because the method is historic. Instead it seems Dropbox now provide direct access to embeddable images by requesting them from a different server. Rather than:
Fingers crossed, that does work. Not sure it's a good way of managing images though. I prefer the forums own Album system for the reasons given by Frances. Although a shade clunky and basic the album avoids many technical issues and is future proof in that it should last at least as long the Forum.
|Thread: Pratt Burnerd 4 jaw Chuck jaw alignment|
Sounds like a manufacturing fault to me. If so, probably explains why the chuck is still in unused condition!
Even the best manufacturers have occasional quality problems due to faulty machines or human error. Inspectors don't catch everything especially if they operate a random sampling system and it's far from unknown for factory rejects to be retrieved from a skip and sold privately. Not everyone in 1980's Britain was honest!
But is it the jaws or the chuck itself that's faulty? If the jaws are at exact right angles, maybe the chuck's T-slots are off.
Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 21/10/2019 10:43:49
|Thread: Slideways oil|
Can you provide a reference to that Old Mart?
I believe the problem addressed by thin oils is making sure the important parts of a cold engine aren't starved of oil whilst the engine slowly gets hot enough for the oil to flow freely at operating pressure. The thin oil doesn't have to be the best lubricant, it just has to get there! It's a bit like the car is being treated for clogged arteries, thin oil rather than blood thinners like Warfarin and Aspirin.
Wasn't able to find anything supporting my understanding, but I don't think I dreamt it! I could be wrong and not for the first time. However, if I'm remembering correctly, winter motor oils will be inferior on a lathe to bog-standard 20/40. All a tad pedantic though, I doubt the reduced slipperyness would make much practical difference on a lightly used machine tool.
As NDIY says, WD40's lubricating properties are temporary and using it might even be harmful: I use WD40 to clean oil and grease off and it's a very thin lubricant at best.
Mostly I use old-fashioned 20-40 motor oil because it's cheap and readily available. I avoid modern types like 5W40 because they're designed for hot engines. These oils are thin at low temperatures (which aids winter starting), but thicken up to lubricate properly as the engine heats up. As Lathes don't heat up like engines, they never get the full benefit! Modern oils are also more likely to contain additives which may not be ideal for a lathe.
ISO32 Hydraulic Fluid is good for lubricating machine tools; I buy it when I see it.
Slideway Oil is better than motor oil on machine tools because it's distinctly sticky. Ordinary oils tend to get pushed off slides leaving them dry, making regular squirting on of new oil advisable. Slideway Oil lasts longer between applications and is less likely to run off the vertical slide on a milling machine.
That said any oil is much better than no oil and hobby lathes really aren't fussy.
|Thread: Stepper power for autofeed on lathe|
Not working directly for me on Ubuntu/Firefox. However, I can see the pictures if I right click on the image space and select 'View Image'. (This loads an application to display the image outside the browser, ie independently of the web-site and browser combination.)
Edit: The brilliant theory that follows struck out below is WRONG! I should have been able to display one of Phil's photos in this post, and it doesn't work... Back to the Drawing Board in sack cloth and ashes!
Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 20/10/2019 11:37:15
|Thread: windoze 10|
There are indeed several variants of Windows 10, plus what's loaded by default on a particular computer depends on the hardware vendor. The bash shell (Linux) is an advanced developer feature, far too scary for ordinary Microsoft groupies. It usually has to be switched on by an Administrator from Settings->Update&Security. This set of instructions describes all the steps.
The bash shell is the Linux equivalent of Microsoft's PowerShell, not a full Linux installation. The extra power bash provides might only be useful to command line and scripting gurus, not the average civilian! Powershell is well beyond most Microsoft users and Bash goes to the next level. Very useful if needed, mostly not!
|Thread: Tapping drill size|
Oodles of good advice in Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook. I should read it more often!
In Section 4, he explains that most tap drill tables are designed for tapping machines fitted with slipping clutches and automatic reversers. He says: 'The tables are designed to accept the higher thread engagements found in production workshops are not suitable for hand tapping.'
Therefore his tables of tap drill sizes in Model Engineer's Handbook have been designed to give at least 65% engagement in small sizes (below 3/8", and up to 75% for larger sizes. Thus he recommends 7.1mm for M8 rather than the usual 6.8mm.
There's also a table of recommended engagements by material. This ranges from 50% for Stainless Steel (the nasty tough type, not the free-cutting variety) up to 70% in Brass and 75% in Cast Aluminium. He also points out higher engagements are needed when tapping sheet metal - at least 85%.
|Thread: Be gentle with me.|
The main thing I don't like about Fusion is it's a Cloud product. Although designs are stored locally - 'cached' - for performance reasons, they're also copied to a central repository on the web. The web copy is the master, most useful when a team is working on different parts of a large project.
Fusion does work off-line, but only within limits:
The purpose of the arrangement is to allow Fusion to carry on working during temporary network outages and to allowing work to continue on a mobile computer over a short holiday. It doesn't support unrestricted off-line working like Solidworks or FreeCAD.
|Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north|
Freehold can also come with strange covenants and conditions. My house deeds state that the pub at the end of the road has the right to discharge sewage across my garden! (The pub is Victorian, built when the area was still fields.) Not too worried because my house is at least a metre higher than the pub and Public Health legislation forbids spraying human effluent about. The minerals rights under the property belong to the Church of England and I'm forbidden from keeping pigs in the house. It's why I had to take up Model Engineering rather than indulge myself in porky pleasures...
|Thread: Fusion 360 Licence Changes|
Tested accessing Fusion 360 as Ian suggested using Remote Desktop. Seemed good at first, but it freezes after about 10 minutes. Not sure if this is a Fusion problem or an issue with my computers, local network and RDP. More testing needed.
What does work is signing-out of each and every session. I've found not signing out when using two computers also creates a more serious problem - misalignment between components stored on the server and those in the two different local caches, causing 'There's a later version...' warnings and inconsistencies. Might be a bug or because the Hobby Version of Fusion doesn't support multiple users.
None of this is serious: despite some initial confusion I was able to realign my computers without having a nervous breakdown. Apart from confusion due to using the product on two different computers, I haven't found any loss of functionality due to switching to the Hobby Licence.
|Thread: Tapping drill size|
Given the application is T-nuts which can be expected to be stressed, best to go for a small drill leaving the maximum amount of metal for a strong tight fitting thread - 6.8mm.
When strength doesn't particularly matter, and often it doesn't, I generally use a larger than recommended tapping drill because bigger holes reduce the work the tap does. Taps in bigger holes last longer and are much less likely to break, especially in small sizes. But a loose fit also means low strength: don't deliberately weaken load bearing fastenings.
|Thread: Internet searching|
For the ordinary Joe the size of the search result is a hint he should follow Michael's advice and tighten up his search terms.
Not everyone on the internet is an ordinary Joe though - I occasionally use 'Beautiful Soup' which is a Python module for automatically retrieving and parsing HTML pages : it's a tool for mass extraction of web data for offline processing rather than casual browsing, and one application is analysing the results of a large search. Google, DuckduckGo, Yahoo and others build their search indexes by 'spidering' the web. It can be crudely done by reading all the pages on a website and recursively following every link to every other website and all its links.
Website owners can be seriously upset by visits from these tools! I might decide to scan the whole of the Model Engineering site with the innocent motive of creating a better index. Thoughtlessly done, my home computer on a moderately fast internet connection could easily overload MyTimeMedia's servers. Unless told not to, a program doesn't behave like a human user slowly retrieving pages and reading them, instead it requests pages as fast as the network running flat out permits, thrashing the web server with a load equivalent to many thousands of people. (Chances are the web server is programmed to detect and throttle single users submitting multiple fast requests, but even so an inconsiderately written program would block and delay legitimate users.) The size of a search result can be used by these programs to detect an accidentally excessive search, or to deliberately find them with a view to rationalising them: Google do a very job displaying the most likely hits first and this intelligent ordering doesn't happen by accident.
Finding small results is more challenging than big ones. A 'Google Whack' is a two word search request that only finds one hit. Really difficult to do. I'm tempted to bring the internet to its knees by writing a badly automated search...
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