Here is a list of all the postings AJW has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Well I finally got round to tackling the clock!
Very nicely made assembly but it did have a screw missing from the chassis, thread was in the puller it would have gone in but must have got overlooked I guess?
As i dismantled it and removed mainspring in its case I found it was absolutely completely unwound with nothing to release in the spring box, this felt well lubricated and as I could see no obvious way of getting into it I left well alone especially as it had run down in such a complete manner.
All other parts although looking clean and lubricated were washed in IPA, dried and reassembled with the lube that Jason suggested. Also cut the end off the original key and made and silver soldered on a new piece with the square bore fitting the winder nicely as the original was very sloppy.
Gave it a full wind and over the 8 days it was losing about 3 seconds a day after which it continued to run for a further 10 days! It actually started to gain after the 8 day period then lose for the last couple of days.
Very pleased with the way it performs I have plans of mounting it on a nice bit of timber for my 'office' (read small bedroom!)
|Thread: Swarf damage|
On my ML7 I use a piece of rubber sheet attached to the chuck side of the saddle using a couple of cap screws and ally angle to clamp it. If I have lots of cuttings both sides I will attach by magnets a small sheet of newspaper with magnets.
Works for me!
What a website, like a Haynes manual for the movement - but better!
It's still running at the moment losing about 3 seconds a day once it's exhausted and I have the oil delivered I shall consider tackling it. As can be seen from the photos the movement is very clean with no masses of gummy lubricant.
As has been suggested it might not have ever seen service and could have been sold off as war surplus!
Thanks, interestingly it looks like the mainspring assembly can be removed independently of the main movement so avoiding it going in a wash tank.
I have got some oil on the way, thanks JasonB.
Can't remember how to link photos but I have created a US Navy album with a few photos in
Thanks MichaelG, I see they have been making clocks for a very long time - nice to think they are still in existence. I have contacted Chelsea in the hope they can shed some light on the vessel it was allocated to (obviously not sunk) although I feel this information is 'Naval' , it has a Naval serial number on the face but have so far drawn a blank.
I feel the way forward and remove all old residues is by dismantling it, luckily there's not a lot of parts involved. My biggest concern would be the balance wheel or more accurately - the hair spring!
I suppose I could put the whole assembled movement in the ultrasonic tank then once dry apply the oil to pivot ends?
ps, can't remember how to link in photos! But some clock photos are in my US Navy clock album!
Thanks guys, I had visions of buying a blooming great bottle of lube! 15ml sounds ideal.
I was going to dismantle and ultrasonic clean the parts to remove dried out lubricant, the brass and bright steel parts look almost as bright as the day they were made, I guess being secured in a virtually airtight case has helped. When I'm on the other 'puter I shall link up some photos.
I have a 1941 US NAVY clock made by the Chelsea Click Co in Boston. This has been in my workshop unused for many years. Wound it recently and it runs beautifully for about a week on a wind.
I would like to put it in regular use but no doubt it could do with a service as I don't suppose it's ever been attended to. I has a simple but very well made movement and in good order I was considering tackling it myself although I haven't any 'clock oils'!
In the past on similar I have used a 0-30 sae synthetic engine oil, I've found it doesn't seem to go gummy like regular mineral oil.
Is this an acceptable alternative or should I get a drop of something?
|Thread: Do you clean the workshop up every day?|
It's so nice to walk into a clean and tidy workshop - can't remember the last time!
|Thread: Door stay help|
They are only standard back doors, one in the kitchen and one into my 'man cave'
This is the type of friction stay fitted.
Agree, less than ideal but better than nothing.
Guilty as charged M'lord! In my defence I plead ignorance as I asked for doors to be supplied with stays.
I'm waiting for the 'how did we do' for feedback!
Well I woke up with the bit between my teeth this morning determined to improve the stays!
Found myself a piece of self adhesive felt which when compressed was about .035 thou thick, a lump of steel to machine into a 'T' shape to fit the alloy channel. Had to pop round local screw supplier for some grub screw's and csk jobbies.
Basically spent all day developing them but am really pleased with the results. I have two grub screws which expand the T section with the felt attached to adjust the friction within the channel.
The original design, while obviously cheap is of very poor design and of very limited lifespan, how can they sell such a poor product?
The felt idea sounds like it would offer better long term operation, I will certainly look that idea. The only real restriction is that any of the friction components need to operate in the extruded aluminium channel fitted into the door edge shape, and it is just over 1/2 in wide!
Our old wooden doors had a friction device incorporating a max opening position. This was screwed to door and frame with the 'hinge' between both parts having the friction components fitted a bit like the old suspension dampers used on old Bentley's etc. Worked a treat and as the cork components wore they could be re adjusted with a wing nut.
Not the sort of thing that is suitable for a plastic door/frame though.
John, you refer to a damper/restrictor - got anymore info?
Yes, only 9 months usage! Disgusting, and I am sure they would be replaced but I would only get another 9 months use because they just wear out!
As you say I could fit one of the 'door holder open' type stays but the beauty of the original (albeit short term!) is the ability to leave the doors anywhere between ajar and fully open.
Thanks for replies! Yes the assembly uses a moulded nylon section for applying friction and it works well but it slides inside the extruded aluminium section that fits the door channel.
Unfortunately the friction wears out the nylon piece. I have seen the same design from various outlets from less than £4 but I know they won't last!
Even found a review of door stays where this design came up trump's although it's obviously not been tested over a longer period as it would wear itself out.
Think I need to re design the idea.
We had a couple of uPVC doors fitted about 9 months ago. There was an option of a door stay unit that fits to the top of the door and has an adjustment screw fitted to create friction in the door stays operation which we have found quite useful as the door can be left part open and resisting wind gusts.
I have now found that the friction adjustment is all taken up and no more friction adjustment! All worn out in 9 months.
Removing the unit from the door it is of a very poor design so I dug out a lump of brass in the hope I can make something longer lasting but before I attempt a redesign I thought I would ask has anyone had experience of uPVC door stays that work and more importantly - keep working!
|Thread: Hermes Parcels|
I have used them quite a bit but my last parcel went missing it was insured but took weeks to get my outlay back.
I think the worst thing you can do when printing the label is to identify what's inside! Just say Mr Jones parcel or something like.
|Thread: Myford Lubrication... yet again!|
On my ml7 I use a Tecalemit gun, part number GB2787. Think they date from late 50's
It's relatively small so requires more frequent filling but works well pumping oil right through the cross slide/bed ways and the tailstock quill.
|Thread: Alloy joining|
I last saw this on demo at AllyPally and it looked fantastic, the guy even let me have a go, very impressed but I remember it cost about £40 do a 3ft length - the roll it was on must have cost a fortune.
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