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Member postings for Dave Halford

Here is a list of all the postings Dave Halford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
03/08/2021 09:47:29

Can't beat Andrew ................ but I can offer photos of my 2Aminus as it was then (minus a gearbox) with a 2 belt drive facing the top and bottom of it's own raising block.

Note that the nut does not touch the bearing smiley and it's only a 2 thou cut.



Thread: 1" Minnie boiler tube wire gauge thickness
02/08/2021 17:56:28

Boiler barrel is 16G

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
02/08/2021 12:00:57
Posted by William Ayerst on 02/08/2021 09:18:03:

Realistically I think I may have just fallen foul of expecting 1/4" square rod to actually be 0.250" .

All the best!

New millers first mistake, not measuring the stock devil

2nd mistake not remembering that different to a lathe bright steel unlike black can be full of stresses and a freshly milled surface can turn into a banana after a decent cut if not balanced by a similar cut on the opposing side.

01/08/2021 14:59:04

This is the 2A half nut, the 2B is different I know as is the travel stop bar (I think mines been moved)


Your stop bar looks non original

Thread: Beginner Lathe, Chester Craftsman.
31/07/2021 12:16:43
Posted by not done it yet on 06/05/2017 04:31:35:

tin sheds sweat a little.

The shed doesn't actually 'sweat'. It is the water vapour in the air condensing on cold surfaces. Install a dehumidifier, make the shed fairly airtight and condensation problems can be solved. But choose you humidifier carefully - compressor types don't work well below 15 degrees Celsius.

My shed at the previous house (80's) was entirely metal corrugated sheet and sweated badly enough to rain inside due to the shallow pitch.

The simple application to the roof of old suspended ceiling tiles rescued from the skip at work stopped it, and those were only 13mm thick, so even an inch of polystyrene sheet will be better. The down side is under these conditions the roof is acting as a better dehumidifier than your tools.

To avoid anymore confusion

Use of the words sweated and rain are not used in their normal meaning - moisture forming on cold metal looks like beads of sweat upon my fevered brow and these beads fall like rain when they get big enough. There were therefore no clouds forming in the roof of my shed.

The word pitch does not refer to a thread.

Thread: Death of a scammer
30/07/2021 16:20:38


Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
30/07/2021 16:09:38
Posted by William Ayerst on 30/07/2021 15:19:55:

I figured it out - the knurled wheel is threaded onto the cylindrical arbor inside and it was rusted solid on my X-axis dial. I used some loctite to bond the whole assembly to a mandrel and then was able to break it free after soaking in WD40. After reassembly I put the wrong spacer on the wrong dial - which meant no matter how much the wheel was unscrewed it never locked tight. After swapping them back over, both are working as expected.

There is an additional washer between the knurled ring and the handle on the Y-axis to make up for it being a smaller casting - are you missing that, Dave?

You may well be right, I just tried an extra washer under the acorn nut and it now works. The woodruff key has a nick taken out of it so it is able to go into the arbor so something has been fudged.

Edited By Dave Halford on 30/07/2021 16:14:22

30/07/2021 14:53:13
Posted by William Ayerst on 30/07/2021 13:12:30:

One thing I am struggling with, is the resettable dial on the X-axis. It shares a design with the Y-axis - the outermost ring is a locking nut - twisted one way it pushes against the handwheel and the dial, locking it in place. Twisted one way it pulls inward, allowing the dial to spin freely.

This works fine on the Y-axis, but on the X-axis, the outermost ring just spins in place, so I can't lock the dial and am unable to move the table a set amount, as the dial will drift out of sync with the handwheel.

I wonder if the thread has been stripped, as the ring is halfway pushed out, not enough width to lock the dial, but a gap between it and an adjacent spacer. If I nip up the handle fully with an additional washer it can locks the ring, but the rest of the assembly still rotates.

Is there something obvious I'm missing? I've compared both sets of dials and they seem identical.

Clearly, spare parts are a no-go for this mill, so if possible I'd like to repair rather than replace with something else. In the meantime, I was thinking of using some brass shim to make the dial rigid and not resettable.

Edited By William Ayerst on 30/07/2021 13:15:41

Mine won't either, the lead screw needs to stick out of the mounting plate a few thou further.

Thread: Dynamo drive belt
29/07/2021 15:52:57

We had a conversation on this last year, but can't find it.

You have a choice of leather or canvas depending on pre war or post war.

A google search for either leather or canvas belting will find it

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
27/07/2021 12:29:12

If you have the stub on the end of the arbor then pull the support forward till the nut misses it, the drawbar stops end float, the bearing provides horizontal support only (clue is in the name.)

It seems there's a drawbar for the horizontal arbor, but just some threaded rod for the vertical, so I'm using that for now but will keep it gentle until I can fabricate a proper one. Pardon??? Just keep it gentle

You do not need a drawbar for a drill chuck, my mk2 VH takes a tang with no bother.

Thread: Boxford BUD Tool Post
27/07/2021 10:57:50

You might want to check the tailstock lines up with the pip on that bit of brass in the chuck as well.

I hate parts swappers who don't know nor care what they are doing.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
27/07/2021 10:52:12
Posted by William Ayerst on 26/07/2021 20:46:44:

Thank you both, I wondered if I was going mad on that one!

For tightening (both the horizontal arbor and the clarkson chuck), is there an obvious way to lock the spindle(s) other than putting it into low gear and hoping?

Now I'm getting worried, do not tighten the drawbars more than finger tight + 1/8 turn on a spanner.

To secure cutters in the horizontal arbor there may be a tommy bar hole (which mine have) near the taper.

You do not need to be a gorilla to do up the Clarkson either it is not an ER collet.

Thread: To paint, or nor to paint.
27/07/2021 10:37:48

It doesn't really matter what we think does it?

But it appears someone has already painted the frame and buffer beams, probably hiding all sorts of mistakes under there - or maybe not.

Painting is really difficult, you only have to look a what Stationroad Steam has to say about some peoples painting skills. At the same time shiny new paint seems to be what the majority of buyers and the public want. You only have to look at the popularity of ex steam rollers converted into shiny new showmans engines.

Thread: Rebuilding car trailer and welding/bolting galvanized frame
27/07/2021 10:11:43

Your trailer will be plated for the weight it was as a trailer tent and no more, don't add so much weight that you can't carry anything in it.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
26/07/2021 20:33:19

Some people intend the the whole riser to move forward so the dovetails with the head on are not expected to move so may have no clearance.

Keyways, you buy cutters intended for all mills including 5hp monsters so they all have keyways just in case. Neither the 2, 2A nor 2B arbors have a keyway.

Tighten the arbor nut properly ( only when the arbor support is in place) and the cutter won't slip.

No idea.

It won't be a Clarkson issue, I've got 70+ named cutters and they all fit in my Vertex Osborne clone.

Thread: Myford Gear Spacers
26/07/2021 11:34:41
Posted by Ady1 on 26/07/2021 08:57:29:

Drummond got around it by having a centre boss that's slightly proud and locking the wheels together with a pin


I expect that the ml10 metric conversion gears were bought in stock and spacer washers were cheaper than having bespoke gears made.

As to metric / imperial, we had a recent thread where the consensus was use decimals, not fractions and as both my DRO's and Callipers have a dinky little button to convert from one system to the other these days I am quite happy to mix both systems together on the same job.

Back in the day, the change to SI units left me wondering what was going on as no mention was made of them at school in 69.

Thread: Keeping the workshop cool
22/07/2021 21:03:41

The op's problem is his back wall 'opens' onto someone's garden and the workshop is part of a garage block, so options are limited.

Thread: Myford ML10 link belt?
22/07/2021 15:50:37

Wick oilers have a tube sticking up from out of the oil hole with one end of a worsted wool wick in it, The other end drops into the oil cup. The wick carries the oil up out of the cup and down the hole and sets the speed of delivery.

Drip oilers have no tube, the flow rate being set by both the exit hole size and the oil viscosity.

Thread: Keeping the workshop cool
22/07/2021 12:06:16
Posted by vic newey on 22/07/2021 11:02:25:

My leanto workshop has a transparent roof! I have shade netting and old camouflage netting strung across but it obviously gets rather hot. It even melted some hot melt glue sticks a few years back

Anyone remember the old series 2 Landy had a tropical roof option, basically a 2nd roof with something like a 1/2" air gap between them.

22/07/2021 10:54:15


Fans are better at blowing than sucking, least ways my leaf blower very obviously is, so if the fan isn't in a wall or door it pulls air from the sides. Try blowing air into the workshop.

I'm assuming you already have roof insulation smiley

Edited By Dave Halford on 22/07/2021 10:55:36

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