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Member postings for Dave Halford

Here is a list of all the postings Dave Halford has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
05/08/2021 16:48:47

The pulley wobbles Will, and it sounds like a shot bearing as well.

You need to get that pulley off and see if the shaft wobbles. If it does it still may just be the bearing

The scraping sound might be the armature touching inside if the bearing is really bad.

Or you just buy a new motor, a 'specialist' will cost you 3 times what a a new motor will.

Edited By Dave Halford on 05/08/2021 16:51:32

Thread: Kennedy Hexacut
05/08/2021 14:31:49

measure the motor mount bolt positions and shaft size, imperial sizes are here, but you are restricted to new and therefore metric 1/4hp gets you D71 here

More Kennedy info here you will see your does not have the original motor.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
05/08/2021 12:26:15

That noise may even be a crack working already as the motor wobbles it sounds a bit like metal scraping past metal. Cutting the hole for the motor has weakened the cabinet backplate so much it needs some extra top to bottom bracing anyway.

Check the pulley ,then the shaft, the previous owner has done something he shouldn't.

05/08/2021 10:47:36

The motor mount wobbles so bad it will crack the stand in time and you can see the pulley wobbles as you pull the belt by hand, so the motor shaft may be bent or the pulley has been fudged to fit the motor and is off centre.

Thread: Accurate Clamping
04/08/2021 14:53:52

I can think of a better use for a 'C' spanner.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
04/08/2021 11:17:11

Lets hope it's the VH belt tensioner bearing, if you have the tensioner wheel on the outside of the belt it might be a lumpy belt. Older Fenner's have the name moulded to stand out.

The gearbox should not be unduly noisy

Edited By Dave Halford on 04/08/2021 11:19:07

04/08/2021 10:51:21

Same noise on horizontal only?

Every gear?

Thread: 80mm milling vice
04/08/2021 10:46:53

More fun than making, Warco, and still stupid cheap, same price that they sell them at the shows. The stud / bolt is prevented from exiting the bottom.

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
03/08/2021 18:12:20
Posted by William Ayerst on 03/08/2021 16:57:42:

Yes, the nut not touching the bearing is something I've realised after cleaning my undies out. It seems homeandworkshopmachinery have a new-old-stock Clarkson 3x3" slab cutter for £54 - is that about the right price for one?

I think I'll need to move the VH back on the riser block so it's ontop of the main column insteead of above the overarm support - my gut feeling is that a bit of

One inch are quite rare + it's a big chunk of HSS

Thread: Is It A Fake
03/08/2021 14:23:41
Posted by Dave Halford on 03/08/2021 10:00:15:

This sounds familiar, wasn't there a thread on hear some time ago?

Found it - wrong website it's on Traction Talk

03/08/2021 10:00:15

This sounds familiar, wasn't there a thread on hear some time ago?

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
03/08/2021 09:47:29

Can't beat Andrew ................ but I can offer photos of my 2Aminus as it was then (minus a gearbox) with a 2 belt drive facing the top and bottom of it's own raising block.

Note that the nut does not touch the bearing smiley and it's only a 2 thou cut.



Thread: 1" Minnie boiler tube wire gauge thickness
02/08/2021 17:56:28

Boiler barrel is 16G

Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
02/08/2021 12:00:57
Posted by William Ayerst on 02/08/2021 09:18:03:

Realistically I think I may have just fallen foul of expecting 1/4" square rod to actually be 0.250" .

All the best!

New millers first mistake, not measuring the stock devil

2nd mistake not remembering that different to a lathe bright steel unlike black can be full of stresses and a freshly milled surface can turn into a banana after a decent cut if not balanced by a similar cut on the opposing side.

01/08/2021 14:59:04

This is the 2A half nut, the 2B is different I know as is the travel stop bar (I think mines been moved)


Your stop bar looks non original

Thread: Beginner Lathe, Chester Craftsman.
31/07/2021 12:16:43
Posted by not done it yet on 06/05/2017 04:31:35:

tin sheds sweat a little.

The shed doesn't actually 'sweat'. It is the water vapour in the air condensing on cold surfaces. Install a dehumidifier, make the shed fairly airtight and condensation problems can be solved. But choose you humidifier carefully - compressor types don't work well below 15 degrees Celsius.

My shed at the previous house (80's) was entirely metal corrugated sheet and sweated badly enough to rain inside due to the shallow pitch.

The simple application to the roof of old suspended ceiling tiles rescued from the skip at work stopped it, and those were only 13mm thick, so even an inch of polystyrene sheet will be better. The down side is under these conditions the roof is acting as a better dehumidifier than your tools.

To avoid anymore confusion

Use of the words sweated and rain are not used in their normal meaning - moisture forming on cold metal looks like beads of sweat upon my fevered brow and these beads fall like rain when they get big enough. There were therefore no clouds forming in the roof of my shed.

The word pitch does not refer to a thread.

Thread: Death of a scammer
30/07/2021 16:20:38


Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A
30/07/2021 16:09:38
Posted by William Ayerst on 30/07/2021 15:19:55:

I figured it out - the knurled wheel is threaded onto the cylindrical arbor inside and it was rusted solid on my X-axis dial. I used some loctite to bond the whole assembly to a mandrel and then was able to break it free after soaking in WD40. After reassembly I put the wrong spacer on the wrong dial - which meant no matter how much the wheel was unscrewed it never locked tight. After swapping them back over, both are working as expected.

There is an additional washer between the knurled ring and the handle on the Y-axis to make up for it being a smaller casting - are you missing that, Dave?

You may well be right, I just tried an extra washer under the acorn nut and it now works. The woodruff key has a nick taken out of it so it is able to go into the arbor so something has been fudged.

Edited By Dave Halford on 30/07/2021 16:14:22

30/07/2021 14:53:13
Posted by William Ayerst on 30/07/2021 13:12:30:

One thing I am struggling with, is the resettable dial on the X-axis. It shares a design with the Y-axis - the outermost ring is a locking nut - twisted one way it pushes against the handwheel and the dial, locking it in place. Twisted one way it pulls inward, allowing the dial to spin freely.

This works fine on the Y-axis, but on the X-axis, the outermost ring just spins in place, so I can't lock the dial and am unable to move the table a set amount, as the dial will drift out of sync with the handwheel.

I wonder if the thread has been stripped, as the ring is halfway pushed out, not enough width to lock the dial, but a gap between it and an adjacent spacer. If I nip up the handle fully with an additional washer it can locks the ring, but the rest of the assembly still rotates.

Is there something obvious I'm missing? I've compared both sets of dials and they seem identical.

Clearly, spare parts are a no-go for this mill, so if possible I'd like to repair rather than replace with something else. In the meantime, I was thinking of using some brass shim to make the dial rigid and not resettable.

Edited By William Ayerst on 30/07/2021 13:15:41

Mine won't either, the lead screw needs to stick out of the mounting plate a few thou further.

Thread: Dynamo drive belt
29/07/2021 15:52:57

We had a conversation on this last year, but can't find it.

You have a choice of leather or canvas depending on pre war or post war.

A google search for either leather or canvas belting will find it

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