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Member postings for Kiwi Bloke

Here is a list of all the postings Kiwi Bloke has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Problem with EMCO FB-2
15/04/2020 06:40:35

Working from memory - which gets less reliable day by day...

We're talking about the quill feed, right? The 'large nut' is in fact an integral part of the quill feed pinion shaft. To get the graduated sleeve off the pinion shaft, the shaft has to be removed. IIRC, it's held in by the alloy casting that carries the fiducial mark, and this is held onto the head casting by a single countersunk screw. There's the return spring somewhere in this assembly.

This is where memory gets really unreliable. I think that the 'depth stop' ring is acted on by the spring, and that releasing its socket head screw will relieve (partially?) the spring force. Hold the quill up, or lock it, when withdrawing the quill shaft.

As Barrie lever has said, the friction spring inside the graduated sleeve is simply a short length of spring steel strip. Nasty, but works. Until it doesn't...

Thread: Drilling carbon fibre
14/04/2020 12:24:05

I'd have thought that splitting would be very likely with any kind of drill, even if fed under extremely controlled conditions - not just rammed into the work. Consider using a diamond 'point' in a Dremel, etc?

Your idea of laminating cross fibres sounds good!

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 14/04/2020 12:25:36

Thread: Serious Readers, serious prices
14/04/2020 12:19:59

LED technology has come on a bit in the time you've apparently had your lamp. There seems continually to be more choice, prices have come down a lot, and availability to the public is much better. I think I'd be looking to re-engineer the lamp to take something easily available.

Thread: [Beginner] How do I adjust the gibs on a milling machine?
14/04/2020 00:18:13

Strange. I've never seen a gib strip in two pieces, like the pic. The manual for an earlier version of the M1 identifies only a single gib strip for the table. Sometimes one gets the impression that no two Senior machines are the same, however I think yours is probably non-original, or has been broken (and then fettled?).

I don't see why a two-piece gib strip shouldn't work OK in this application. If you think about it, gib strips are not very stiff, so the bit between where the screws bear really isn't doing much. This is in contrast to tapered gibs, in which there is well-fitted contact on both of its surfaces - and they're easier to adjust too. Altogether preferable.

I suggest you get the machine up and running, and then you can have the satisfaction of making a new gib strip...

Gib strips need to be restrained from moving lengthways. IIRC, and as the pic suggests, each of the Senior's screws locates in a pocket in the strip. However, if there were only one pocket doing the restraining (and the other screws have, for example, a ball end which bears on the strip's surface), the non-pocketed bit of your two-part strip could move.

Incidentally, I think the pic suggests that the correct oil level should be low enough not to worry about gaskets, etc.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 14/04/2020 00:20:33

12/04/2020 12:36:06

Just looked at the video - well, skipped through it, actually. Blimey! Can't some Americans talk? There must be more concise videos covering the topic...

KR is talking about taper gibs. Some Senior gibs are taper, others are the multiple-screw type (working from unreliable memory here, so don't know what you're dealing with). When adjusting taper gibs, be sure to lock the gib gently with the lock screw, otherwise the gib strip can be free to move and act like a wedge, to lock up the slide, at worst, or give hopelessly inconsistent results, at best.

KR's machine was obviously pretty badly adjusted. The fact that he was using it for 2 years says something... You can try his 'lean on it sideways and look for the movement' approach, but, on smaller machines, everything is so much smaller and tighter (or should be). I maintain that it's easier and more reliable to judge gib adjustment by the effect it has on freedom of movement of the sliding member (in the desired direction, of course).

All these remarks assume the ways are not significantly worn and the gib strip isn't a banana.

If you're hunting wear, then you'll need expensive metrology gear...

I don't understand your remark 'The x-axis (table) has two gibs (~2:1 length ratio)'. Please could you explain? Never seen that...or am I being thick?

Thread: E clip tool
12/04/2020 12:09:39

Steve - beautiful little tool! Thanks for sharing it. Hope I can remember your design when I next have a similar job. This forum's a goldmine!

Thread: [Beginner] How do I adjust the gibs on a milling machine?
12/04/2020 12:07:02

Haven't yet seen the video to which the link was provided.

Semi-random thoughts, hints & tips...

If there is enough wear to make an appreciable difference to the freedom of movement of a slideway, along its length of travel, once it's adjusted optimally, the machine really needs attention, eg scraping the ways. (Big subject - plenty on the 'net, including videos.) Of course, this makes adjustment impossible, except for over a limited length of travel.

Lubricate the ways with slideway oil before you begin. This special oil minimizes the 'stick-slip' phenomenon. It makes a big difference to properly adjusted slideways. People who claim otherwise are misled. If the slide is badly adjusted, and too loose, anything vaguely oily would appear to be OK. The aim is to get the adjustment as tight as possible, whilst allowing free movement.

The freedom of movement to be aimed for can't easily be judged by twiddling handwheels. It's best to remove the feedscrew, then push and pull the table, saddle, whatever, and slightly slacken the adjusters from gently bound to smooth movement. On a Senior-sized machine, with chunky feedscrews, you could aim for a force of a couple of pounds (or more) required to move the sliding member. It's a matter of adjust, test, adjust, test, rinse and repeat.

When replacing the feedscrew, screw it in as far as it can go, so that its nut is as close to the screw's mounting plate as possible. Bring the sliding member back towards the mounting plate, then tighten the mounting plate screws, whilst being sensitive to the position of the screw - the aim is for it to be central in its range of lateral wobble. (Does this make sense?)

The vertical knee is much the same, although judging freedom of movement is made difficult by the considerable weight. Suggest adjusting it before mounting the saddle. Or arrange a counterweight (improvise!).

You can use indicators, but you'll drive yourself crazy trying to get consistent results, when you're getting below a thou. The oil film is one problem.

Thread: How to fit a new gasket to oil bath table feed?
12/04/2020 09:02:52
Posted by choochoo_baloo on 12/04/2020 00:51:46:
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 25/03/2020 01:02:40:

I'd suggest either a neutral-cure silicone 'instant gasket' ...

...Is this the sort of thing you mean:

Yes, probably, but my experience is that big tubes like that, intended for mastic guns, end up with >90% wasted - it's difficult to seal the tubes. I don't know what's available in your locality, but I'm sure the motor factors and engineering suppliers (and possibly the DIY stores) have smaller tubes available (actually, there's usually too much choice). Just look for 'neutral cure' on the tube. Some say 'sensor safe' or similar, and are intended for use with things like exhaust gas oxygen sensors. Presumably they have a high temp. tolerance too. If it doesn't proudly claim to be neutral curing, beware!

Thread: Coronavirus
07/04/2020 12:15:16
Posted by Hopper on 07/04/2020 12:00:50:
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 07/04/2020 11:28:00:

So, if domestic (and feral) cats can be infected, as big cats seem to be, what then? Millions of moggies acting as a resevoir of infection isn't a nice prospect - until everyone is immunised.

There are no recorded incidents of feline to human transmission. Don't panic.

Well, not yet perhaps. If it's the same virus in humans and cats, transmission will occur. Why should species-jumps be one-way? I don't panic easily, just trying to think ahead.

Thread: Borehole pressure vessel change
07/04/2020 12:06:27

Ah, OK, perhaps I'm being slow, and we're not at cross-purposes. If the water has escaped from the bladder, to part-fill the tank, I now understand the possibility of 50 litres remaining in the tank, but not on the floor. It should be possible to drain the tank down to the level of the water connection.

You say the air valve is low-lying. Can you pump up the vessel and let water out via the air valve - several times? With enough puff behind it, it should only take half the morning...

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 07/04/2020 12:08:36

Thread: What is it with the fit of old slotted screws?!
07/04/2020 11:56:27

Some well-made firearms use(d) very narrow-slotted screws that look 'wrong' to engineers. Actually, it's a great idea. The turnscrew (approved jargon) used is chosen to fit. Its blade has a very shallow taper. Because the slot is relatively deep, the blade doesn't bottom out, so it wedges itself in the slot and doesn't slip out, ruining all the expensively-engraved action work. Safer than parallel-ground blades.

Thread: Borehole pressure vessel change
07/04/2020 11:48:24

Are we at cross-purposes? Swapping a tank isn't difficult - provided some thoughtless person hasn't built it into an inaccessible location... The 100 litre tanks here are an easy one-man lift.

A single water connection is standard. The pressure vessel is Tee'd off the pipe between the pump and the services supplied. There's a one-way valve in the system to prevent back-flow into the pump, when it's not running.

Thread: Coronavirus
07/04/2020 11:28:00

So, if domestic (and feral) cats can be infected, as big cats seem to be, what then? Millions of moggies acting as a resevoir of infection isn't a nice prospect - until everyone is immunised.

Thread: Borehole pressure vessel change
07/04/2020 11:23:14

If it's like the thousands all around NZ, typically in rural properties, there's a valve to which a foot-pump is connected, to pressurise the vessel. Even if the water-containing bladder is leaky, the vessel will still pressurise, of course. Close off the inflow (from the pump) and open a tap on the outflow. It may be necessary to pump more than you expect, to get all the water out. If you're really unlucky, the collapsing bladder could possibly block the outflow, or it could collapse in a way that doesn't allow it to empty fully, but I think this is unlikely. Forgive me if you have a completely different arrangement.

Did ours (a big one!) a couple of months ago. Typical of NZ, the new, Italian-made vessel cost many times the UK price (in real terms).

Thread: How do I drill this hole
05/04/2020 10:26:24

The suspension brackets certainly limit your options. Pity, because Mick B1's suggested method was better than mine, I think. However the option of using the lathe as an horizontal borer remains. Surely a set-up on the boring table (cross slide) should be more rigid than a skyscraper on the milling table. There's so many ways to skin a cat...

As Bill Chugg suggests, please could you post pix of your chosen set-up? You've got us on tenterhooks.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 05/04/2020 10:30:57

Thread: 2TB USB drives.
03/04/2020 22:55:34

Possibly advertised for the benefit of crooked re-sellers?

Thread: How do I drill this hole
03/04/2020 21:00:34

Long drills tend to wander, given the chance, so shortest possible drill is best. Use the lathe. Centre-pop each end of axle and set work between centres. Fix to cross slide with packing, whatever (improvise!) and clamps.

You now have intended entry and exit points coaxial with lathe's axis (having remembered to adjust tailstock's alignment...). Fix drill in headstock chuck/collet and drill half way.

Reverse the job, repeat.

If the hole isn't good enough, you could then consider making a small-diameter between-centres boring bar and taking very light cuts.

02/04/2020 10:11:45

Absolutely unacceptable! Gurgle = spawn of Satan!

If one of your contacts were to experience something unpleasant as a result of contact details being released, who is legally responsible for the privacy breach - you or Gurgle?

A 'temporary' email account, with no contacts, etc. is useful...

If you look at the 'permissions' required by most Android (another of Gurgle's data-mining methods) apps, you really can't download any without a degree of fear.

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 02/04/2020 10:14:34

Thread: Boring tool
02/04/2020 09:31:38
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 02/04/2020 07:52:18:


[lots of edits - it's all coming back, slowly (wibble-wobble, wibble-wobble). Virtual prize awarded for anyone who can identify what I'm referencing in parenthesis in the previous sentence!]

I meant that sentence, Michael...

02/04/2020 07:52:18

Designed by Arnold Throp, who was the founder of Dore engineering, who provided a kit for it. Nothing to do with ETW, as far as I know. It's shown in use in Throp's book 'Vertical Milling in the Home Workshop and discussed by GH Thomas in his 'The Model Engineers (sic) Workshop Manual'.

The 'Dore-Westbury' milling machine was Throp's re-design of the earlier Wesbury machine. Dore Eng. produced kits, in which the larger pieces were ready-machined, and added the (optional?) back-gear. Castings for the original design were also available, from Woking Precision, IIRC.

[lots of edits - it's all coming back, slowly (wibble-wobble, wibble-wobble). Virtual prize awarded for anyone who can identify what I'm referencing in parenthesis in the previous sentence!]

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 02/04/2020 07:58:23

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 02/04/2020 08:06:18

Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 02/04/2020 08:09:11

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