Here is a list of all the postings Kiwi Bloke has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Which oil and oil gun|
'Cleverer people than me will know the whole answer, but I believe modern engine oil is not suitable for your lathe. Those oils are designed to work at a much higher temperature. I suspect that the various additives in them wont help either!'
What he said!
'Hydraulic' oil is the stuff to use, eg Nuto 32, in gearboxes and nipples, with 'way oil' on slideways.
|Thread: Glass cutting|
Decades ago a bottle-cutting gadget was marketed. It was simply constructed from strips of flat stock. One end had a lump that was able to rotate in/on the bottle's neck, the other held a glazier's wheel. The bottle was scored, then the score line tapped until the thing broke into - hopefully - two pieces. Presumably any other means of guiding a wheel would be as effective.
I think I read about another technique in which the bottle was filled with oil (of some sort) to the level required, then a red-hot poker was plunged into the oil. The bottle was supposed to fracture at the oil-level. Sounds like Health & Safety might not approve...
No experience of either. Good luck.
|Thread: What coating/grease for long term tool storage|
Probably originally coated in one of Shell's Ensis oils.
Morris Ankor Wax and good old Waxoyl also work well. Vaseline could be considered too.
|Thread: My bench grinder let out the magic smoke|
It's often worth scouring dumps to look for discarded appliances which need only a replacement capacitor to be restored to health. The suppression caps across the mains, especially if paper dielectric, often let go too.
|Thread: Mystery Tooling|
Close... I think you're implying a parting tool. Thanks to the set-up pic, you've provided the clue - it's a travelling steady. Clever design for its simplicity.
Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 14/08/2019 22:24:55
|Thread: Slot drills, two for one.|
Perhaps the same helpful folk would send you two 3mm dia end mills if you ordered one of 6mm dia.
|Thread: Flat bottom hole 3/16 o/d|
...or, if appropriate, you might consider a through hole with an inserted plug - secured by your favourite method.
|Thread: Unimat 3 milling spindle bearing upgrade|
Barrie: thanks for your encouragement and offer. I've no idea when I'll get one of those round tuit things... Where did you go for Bellville washers?
I see that Simply Bearings (from whom I've had excellent service) have 15mm ID bearings in 20, 21, 24, 26 and 28mm OD. Perhaps this makes a nose-end bearing swap practicable. What do you think? My spindles have a lot of radial play at the nose end, so I'd want to attack that end as well.
|Thread: Karcher pressure washer|
Apologies to anyone who finds pedantry tiresome. The correct usage of the word means the only person practicing floccinaucinihilipilification in this thread is the person who considers content to be worthless. The two accused did not.
If the forum were to restrict content to important, worthy and non-trivial content, there would be far, far less to enjoy.
|Thread: Unimat 3 milling spindle bearing upgrade|
Well, I'm full of admiration for someone who fixes a problem so swiftly! In disgust at their bearing slackness, I packed away my Unimat milling heads and tried to forget about them. Perhaps motivation will now return...
When you had the quill apart, did you investigate whether a standard-sized ball bearing could be fitted into the nose end of the quill as well? Presumably, it would need to be bored out, as at t'other end.
|Thread: Karcher pressure washer|
'And there the Forum Falls Foul of Flexiloquent Folk partaking in a Floccinaucinihilipilification process...."
Our grandiloquent friend is surely mistaken: there was no ambiguity nor worthlessness opined. Pedantry perhaps, but correct usage of vocabulary seems to be a vanishing ability.
It should be an easy fix. My >30-year-old Karcher HD 575 is still going strong, but has always had a problem where pulling the trigger doesn't always release more than mains-pressure water. Usually, after a few trigger-pulls, or a bit of a wait, it is fine, only to 'fail' the next time the trigger is released. Or not... Annoying. Due, I'm sure, to it not being used enough, so evaporation of the water inside leaves the solids to gum up the works. The cure is to remove, dismantle and clean the pressure-adjusting valve. A smear of silicone grease helps. Similar attention to non-return valves, as above (NDIY), might also be necessary. The pump also piddles water out from the pump body drain orifices. This is because the piston seals wear. It's all an easy fix - assuming spares are available (here, in NZ, I'm not hopeful).
The pump is easily dismantled, without worrying about oil, orientation, etc. The swashplate assembly, between pump and motor, is oil-filled, but does not have to be disturbed for pump maintenance.
Repair, don't replace!
|Thread: Bulking problem?|
Just thinking aloud here... I have no experience of, or knowledge about the subject, but when did that ever inhibit anyone posting to a forum?
I don't doubt the delamination phenomenon, but it seems a bit odd that a symmetrically-applied, radial compressive force causes delamination, unless there are severe axial shear forces at work. In other words, the inner layers are being squeezed, orange-pip-like, towards the open end of the horn. Perhaps the horn also needs to be constrained axially, having given the wide end a plane bearing surface, so all layers can be supported, as the radial force is applied.
Alternatively, although I'd expect high shear forces to be induced, another way of squashing down the horn may be to try drawing it down through a succession of smaller diameter dies, as in wire drawing. Perhaps many small diametrical reductions between heats might avoid delamination. I would imagine that the horn might need to be soaking in whatever heating method used for perhaps tens of minutes, to make sure it's 'cooked' all the way through.
Another way of applying surprisingly large forces is by wrapping with strips of well-stretched rubber (eg strip cut from old inner tube), perhaps several layers.
|Thread: Furrows on a milled edge|
Nurse should have tucked me safely up in bed, instead of letting me play on the computer after my bed-time. Of course, JasonB is right, the pulley screws on and it's a collar that's pressed onto the spindle shaft. I was working from memory (dangerous these days) - the vertical heads have been stored away and forgotten about, for some time. Sorry for any puzzlement caused.
The anti-friction bearing mod was the subject of this thread. I'm horrified to see that four and a half years have passed since then, and I've achieved nothing useful in that time...
Edited By Kiwi Bloke on 07/08/2019 07:02:54
Barrie, just in case you were wondering, the milling spindle is removed by pressing it out, (nose first) through the pulley. Do let us all know how your project goes.
Barrie, your result looks pretty good, vastly better than what my machines will do. Yes, prev. post was directed to OP, but also as a warning to all owners.
Yes, I did mean radial play - as a result of slack sleeve bearings / bushes. Particularly annoying, because correction requires replacement, possibly custom manufacture, unless modification is considered. One forum member was intending to fit anti-friction bearings, and it's been written up in ME - ages ago. Unfortunately, it seems to require the manufacture of a smaller diameter spindle, so rigidity may be compromised. Perhaps fancy bronze/PTFE, or other 'plastic'-containing bushes are the simpler answer. One day, I'll sort mine out...
Of course, the silly pressed-on pulley design means that elimination of axial play is difficult to eliminate, but at least one can try to adjust it out...
Emco dropped the ball when they designed the milling attachment for the Unimat 3. It uses sleeve bearings, which can't be adjusted. The spindle end-float also can't be adjusted properly. The pulley is pressed onto the spindle - its position determines the end-float. It can be 'adjusted' by judicious use of press or more brutal techniques.
I have two milling attachments (don't ask...), both bought barely-used, but both have unacceptable play in the sleeve bearings, making the attachment effectively useless for milling. I would imagine that they have been like that since new and have not worn excessively. The result is as you have shown. I suggest you check your spindle for radial play.
|Thread: Collet Chucks out of true|
'You get an item but it's not quite right so what do you do, use it or return it???' Good question, Tony. I suspect it depends to whom you try to return it. The people who understand that quality matters seem to be dying out - at least in the retail sector.
There's been quite a bit of relevant discussion about these things in this forum already. If clocking the chuck taper suggests the chuck is 'out', it's a dud. The collet may also be 'out'. However, it has been pointed out that, even good-quality collets can't be relied upon to be perfectly aligned when the chuck is tightened. Applying a balanced torque (couple) to the nut may help. Collet 'pushers' are available. These are used to apply a temporary, radial force to what the collet's holding, as the nut is tightened. (Tighten a bit, clock it, tweak, tighten, rinse and repeat...)
As I understand it, these chucks were originally designed to hold cutters, not workpieces, so absolute alignment wasn't such a priority, given the short length of (most) cutters.
|Thread: Dam Solution?|
However, on thinking about it a bit more, the laws of thermodynamics and energy conservation have to be satisfied, and I've conveniently ignored the energy accounting. I think I'll go to bed...
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