Here is a list of all the postings elixir oliver has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: My Toyo ML1|
Thanks again for the detailed instruction. I guess I'll just show your message to him .
Well, when he's done that threading of course. I'm stil waiting..
At the moment just looking at other people shining object (propeller adapter collet).
Mind me asking again later when I need to.
I got the reply from Axminster about the T-slot nut for SIEG C0. From your earlier posting, this seems to be just a waste, isn't it? Perhaps better to get it made.
the parts number 110.
Had a chat with my machinist today. Asking him questions about lathe etc..
Turns out he also recomends.. guess what: Model-engineer magazine. Small world.
Well, he is a bit busy at the moment. So, hopefully by a week something will show up.
I'll post it here again.
it's a whole new world to me.
this looks like a seriously addictive stuff!
Thanks for all the links.
Just struck me that this is a RC enthusiast forum excuse my ignorance. Turns out to be quite a few fine folks in this forum, just like in woodworking (my trade).
I always like RC planes, but as a kid they were the luxury in toys world. Owning one was like having a Bentley.
But, I grow up, thats good news.
I watched 'Hector and the search for Happiness' last night and they were a snip of them playing RC aeroplane.
Guess if the bug bit, it will be on. Well, I'll fix the lathe first whilst find out more about this forum's hobby.
Australia is quite windy, when it's mad.. it's around 30km/h all day. but of course, not all the time
For the QCTP that I found I guess I was only lured to it because of the wording, it said Unimat, Proxxon, Sakai, etc. Material wise I agree with you. I guess some factory just spit out stuff quick out of softer material and cosmetically decorate it. They are just keeping up with current trend of things that expire quickly .
With that to say... isn't it should be cheaper?
ps. checking run out is another thing. heheh, I honestly can't say yet that this lathe I got is running well.
The 'bolt' with the left hand thread looks exactly with what I have, just different colour . Mine is brownish of the rust, but detail is still sharp.
That Blue Tack can't be ignored, when I knock the spacer out, it actually flew off to the floor . Yes, need rubber mat or some sort.
I couldn't thank you all enough. All this I bet is way better thumbing through the manual.
For Pete thank you for taking apart your tailstock, the good pictures, and of course your detailed explaination. Cheers.
and Michael for even more usful tips. I am happy to see this advices keep flowing in, or out, whichever way you prefer
I lubricate and knock apart (gently) what I assume was part of the cast iron body of the tailstock >> it is the Flange.
The brass part which completes the tailstock assembly.
I was lucky not to have to use any other trick other than WD40. but I'll keep in mind that heatgun, Blue Tack, or the fridge. I assume it will comes in handy.
From the photo above, what I couln't show is the bolt which holds the barrel, and the handwheel. They are with the machinist. I will tell him too that the flange in question has been found .
For the tool post, I know how it holds together now. Almost tempted to get it machined than buying and shipped here. see how I go with the handwheel and take it trom there.
I found a link for the Quick change Tool Post which peter might be interested. Yes, Christmas does drain my pocket too, but not the appetite. I'm happy to just get it running properly first.
I was expecting the same, I just tap it with the gentlest force and the barrel slides out a bit whilst the rest being held back by the tailstock bolt inside the tailstock. Affraid that it will damage any other threading or possible fasteners I just unscrew the entire barrel out. I guess I'll make another attempt later on after repairing the tailstock handwheel.
Pete, I am wondering if there is anything missing on my tailstock.
I include the snapshot here
I replace the tailstock bolt with a paintbrush just for an illustration.
I am wondering if there's supposed to be a bearing, spacer, or bushing apart from the tailstock handwheel.
and is there anything else behind the space of the retaining ring, or in front of the retaining ring since I only have the handwheel that screws into the bolt (paintbrush).
>> On the side, I met a friendly machinist today who is also an electrician repairing coffee machine. He is happy to do the boring and threading for me. And he also happen to know this Toyo lathe .
So, I'm really stoked as he seems to be very passionate about lathe.
He is the one inquiring if there's any bearing on the tailstock. I'm not sure if the ML-1 manual will go this far in detail about the tailstock assemblage. I am wondering if bearing, or spacer can be added to improve the performance.
I had a look at the toolpost at Axminster, and I try to find it here in Australia, it turns out they only have the same one that Pete bought . The one that comes with the compound slide. It's no good for me since I have minimum machining skill and machines to do any adjustment.
I might have to get the one from Axminster, although I am wondering how would it sit on the T-Slot cross slide.
is is just a nut on the T-slot, or some sort of bar, or ring. I don't know.
Have a good weekend.
Warmest greeting from Australia,
Michael sounds better actually. My apology .
That was a good idea. However, I haven't got a toolpost . I'll have to find a machinist somewhere here.
Now I wonder why you would want two lathe
By the way, I'm in Australia.
I tried to take out the drill chuck today, wedge a piece of timber behind the chuck and whack it with a mallet (By the way, is that the right way of removing the chuck?). The tailstock spindle slides out, so I just spin the rest of the barrel out. Now the chuck is still attached to the spindle.
No worries Mike,
Of course I don't mind, it was kind of address to anyone can give advice. I am really just a rookie here.
Perhaps I should remove the @ someone in the next message. It's an open forum anyway .
btw, I'm quite impressed Pete was mentioning boring it out to 9mm - 10mm. Well, that goes to experience.
Mike, or Pete. Do you suggest I bore that with a lathe? I supposed anyone with a big enough chuck could do it.
You seems to be right. It is actually pretty good still. Considering it has been round about 30 years.
Thanks for the chuck key photo, and counting the tooth That would make it easier for me to find it.
The handwheel is a bit of an issue, hence the fun.
The one on the left is the one without threading. As you can see, it is drilled off center. I could understand that perhaps the previous owner can't find the center when drilling, and perhaps he shouldn't use a drill.
It seems the new hole is drilled from front and back, and it doesn't meet. On the picture 4, the close up shows where the two holes meet. They seems to be drilled different size too, the hole from the back it's 8.95mm, and from the front is 8.33mm. What is your suggestion? Still able to be saved?
I am wondering if the numbers on the handwhe iel is important at all to be line up or where it should start, but I guess getting the wheel attached to the carrier is more important now.
I did a little cleaning up just with rag and WD-40 since I can't find my steel wool. .
Turns out the rust isn't that bad at all. I reckon with a bit of regular use, it will cleans itself a bit. It seems ok now, I think I just focus on getting the mechanical parts. So, gentleman, I change my mind. But I will get on with cleaning soon after, since Pete got an awfully good looking machine. However, Autosol is great stuff. Use that a lot on my motorbike before.
Will head to hardware store to get some more supplies, as for now I only have plenty of elbow grease.
Hi, it's seems to be quite alive here. I appreciate the responses, and a bit of a crowd
@ Ian and Michael.
Thank you for you suggestion. I guess I'm going to mix a fair bit of everything. Scotch Brite and Steel wool with WD 40. For other part I guess I would need just the good old toothbrush and kerosene.
Fair point on the Industrial grade Scotch Brite being similar to 0000, otherwise our Teflon cookware won't even last a year .
Don't get too jealous on my lathe, I haven't run it properly yet. I could see the sparkling shine on your lathe paintwork and the chuck and all. Almost dentist like Good work.
Thank you for your offer, I might need that. I'm just starting out, so half of your description still new to me. When I got to clean it a little I will let you know. I think one of the handwheel has been bore out previously, and bloody off centre too! No, it hasn't got any threading. Just gaping hole.
On the tailstock, I have got a drill chuck, and most likely is aftermarket brand and the key is pretty small. I'm not sure originally (like yours) comes with live center or dead center.
Anyway, will have day off tomorow and have a go at it. I will keep udating as I go.
Lathe bed rust is similar to the rust on the chuck from the photo above. It doesn't look too bad because of the lighting. The rust on the body itself has gone through the paintworks. I'm thinking of just cleaning it up with WD-40 and 0000 steelwool. any suggestion? I was afraid that it will affect the accuracy if I use steelwool on the lathe bed.
Both of he the handwheel for the carriage has no threading. As shown on picture one of the wheel is placed on the carriage.
I am also wondering what sort of Chuck key I could use, since it is also missing.
Apart from that, it runs quite silent and smooth.
I just recently become a proud owner of Toyo Sakai ML-1. The lathe cosmetically comes with quite a bit of surface rust on the lathe bed. It is running properly. I can't wait to use it, but it comes without a toolpost and two wheel that need helicoil or rethreading.
As this is my first lathe, my limited understanding is trying to get original spareparts. But after reading this post, it seems I could use toolpost from other lathe.
I am welcome to any suggestion for any available toolpost model that would fit.
And perhaps about doing the helicoil on the turning wheel such as the size and measurement or whether it is important to set it on 0 (zero).
Again, my machining skill is almost zero no pun intended, and perhaps starting on the wrong foot on getting this lathe as the first one. but mate, I just can't resist it.
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