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Member postings for David Standing 1

Here is a list of all the postings David Standing 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Toolholders for Myford ML7 and ML10 lathes
09/11/2016 17:39:12
Posted by Nigel McBurney 1 on 09/11/2016 09:21:05:

I would go for rotagrip,I have found them very good & knowledgeable, for over 25 years,have bought items via post and visits

Rotagrip QCTP and holders are of course Bison.

09/11/2016 17:38:14
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 09/11/2016 17:06:42:

Now I'm totally confused (what's new I hear you say). Do you mean these **LINK** - not normally referred to as "4 way"


I think the reference to 'Dickson' in the original post makes it clear.

And you will note that RDG (the parent of 'new' Myford) sloppily refers to them as 'Dixon' - grrr!

08/11/2016 23:08:18

It is said, but I don't know how much fact is behind this, that one make tool holder may not fit another tool post very well, and you should keep like for like.

The Lynam ones are supposed to be good, Bison aren't bad either. You can normally tell Bison by the engraved numbers on the lower face of the holder.

Plenty of hookey 'Dickson' stuff out there (or 'Dixon' even, that makes me cringe).

Thread: Bore Reducer
08/11/2016 18:23:40

And to add, if you are going to change the motor, I would get that first, and make the sleeve to fit the new motor shaft/pulley bore. Don't assume if a motor is advertised with a 1/2" shaft, that is exactly what it will have!

This reminds me of a Hilka polisher I bought off the bay a couple of years ago.

It is based on a double ended bench grinder, and you take the grinding wheels of and slip an adaptor on the shaft with stepped tapered ends to take the polishing wheels.

The adaptor is secured with a grub screw, but the adaptor isn't an inteference fit, so the grub screw pushes it to one side. When you have two polishing mops turning at near on 3000rpm, it literally violently throws itself off the bench, it is so out of balance. I'm not suggesting you will have the same problem, but you will get my point, I am sure.

Ironically your nice Fobco cast iron pulleys will exaggerate any out of centre malarkey, as their extra mass over lightweight alloy ones will exacerbate any imbalance.

08/11/2016 18:05:40

As Brian says - with tube, diameter is normally external, bore is internal.

Also as he says, if the sleeve isn't near on an inteference fit (on both pulley and shaft), the grub screw (which should bear on the sleeve, as Brian says again, not through a hole to the shaft) will push the sleeve to one side, and put the pulley out of balance, inevitably causing vibration.

Edited By David Standing 1 on 08/11/2016 18:09:43

Edited By David Standing 1 on 08/11/2016 18:12:13

08/11/2016 16:48:01

My tidy brain finds reducers like that a bodge anyway (no criticism of you, you bought it that way), why not just swop the pulley for one with the correct bore, such as below?


Note: I know that is 5/8 and you want 1/2", and you may not want the same diameter/number of pulleys, it just happened to be the one I selected, and they will bore you a blank to 1/2" of the size pulley block you choose.


In a week of what seems to be posting coincidences on here, I bought a Progress no 12 drill off the bay yesterday, and I have to replace both pulleys on that, so came across that supplier last evening!

Edited By David Standing 1 on 08/11/2016 16:49:07

Edited By David Standing 1 on 08/11/2016 16:51:04

Thread: C0 self centraling 3 jaw chuck.
07/11/2016 20:45:04
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 07/11/2016 20:20:34:

As I said earlier the trick is "If you can't get them all even swap jaws 2 and 3 over and try again." Always leave No. 1 jaw in place.


Also noted Neil! smiley

07/11/2016 18:25:15



Is no 1 jaw closer to the centre?

You may have just picked up no 2 and 3 jaws a scroll thread later than 1. Undo the chuck slowly whilst pulling on no 3 jaw, until no 3 comes out. Then continue to undo the chuck until no 2 comes out (sorry!). Then do the same until no 1 comes out.

Do the chuck up again whilst pressing no 1 jaw in. As soon as it catches no 1 so you can't pull it out again, insert no 2 whilst pushing on it, and turn the chuck to close it, until it catches no 2. Repeat for no 3 jaw. You should now have all three on the correct part of the scroll.

Edited By David Standing 1 on 07/11/2016 18:27:52

Edited By David Standing 1 on 07/11/2016 18:28:33

07/11/2016 16:27:39

Funnily enough I was putting a 3 jaw Burnerd back together half an hour ago after cleaning the previous owner's cast iron dust out!

Your jaws should be numbered 1,2,3; as will be their slots in the chuck.

Insert jaw 1 into its slot, wind the chuck key until the scroll thread JUST catches it. Insert jaw 2, carry on rotating the chuck until the scroll catches that one, repeat for 3.

Job done smiley.


Edited to say, I was typing whilst Roy was editing!

Edited By David Standing 1 on 07/11/2016 16:28:37

Thread: Better say hello.......
31/10/2016 22:06:00

I have my priorities correct, the car has been turfed out of the garage and will have to spend the winter outside! sad

31/10/2016 19:50:59
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 31/10/2016 12:27:43:

Welcome to the forum David.


Thanks! smiley

31/10/2016 19:50:19
Posted by Phil Hale 1 on 31/10/2016 18:46:12:


Crammed garage? I know that feeling. What worked for me..... a few trips to the tip (recycling centre) and the scrapyard.

What are you going to build - anything exciting?

Phil H


I completed building my bench this evening, I can cram that with junk too now!

I am in the process of rebuilding some 1950/60's British steel framed racing (push)bikes, plus I do a bit of amateur gunsmithing, so will be threading barrels and things like that. smiley


Thread: Boxford paint colour - but not blue or green!
31/10/2016 12:29:03
Posted by Nick_G on 31/10/2016 12:23:51:


Have Trimite not got a sales record of what they supply to Boxford. They may or may not reveal this information though.




Trimite have been very helpful, but didn't offer to check their sales records for a 1991 lathe paint!

Boxford still make the 280 and derivatives, but changed to a two tone blue livery a number of years ago.

31/10/2016 12:27:23
Posted by John Rudd on 31/10/2016 12:22:51:

Have you tried looking at BS /RAL,colour charts online? Should get you close maybe......



Trimite sent me a BS/RAL high quality colour chart, trouble is there are about 20 whites that are close!

31/10/2016 12:14:05

I should add that Trimite will match it if I take a cabinet door off and send it to them, but that is my last resort approach!

Thread: Better say hello.......
31/10/2016 12:08:04

Thanks smiley

Only problem is there is so much kit crammed in my garage, I need to build another garage plus storage shed before I can sort it out and start using it! sad.

Thread: Boxford paint colour - but not blue or green!
31/10/2016 12:04:38

Hi all.

I have a newly acquired Boxford 280, in the ivory and yellow livery, as per the first image here:

I'm trying to find out the paint spec/colour so I can do some tidying up of the paintwork.

Boxford can't tell me the paint code, apart from tell me it was a Trimite air drying acrylic.

Trimite can't identify it, nor can Paragon.

Anyone by chance happen to know what BS/RAL or whatever code the paint is?



Edited By David Standing 1 on 31/10/2016 12:08:49

Thread: Better say hello.......
30/10/2016 23:09:13

Hi all

I have a limited background in engineering from many years ago, newly retired I am just setting up a home workshop and so far have a Boxford 280 Long bed lathe, a late Myford Super 7, a Warco WM18 mill, and a Centec 2 horizontal mill.

Looking forward to some tinkering...........

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