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Member postings for David Standing 1

Here is a list of all the postings David Standing 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford 10 accessories
18/04/2017 23:23:50

Sorry, but both the travelling steady and the QCTP are different, and unique to both machines.

As you say both are much more expensive for the ML10, largely dictated by their relative rarity compared to the ML/S7 versions.

Thread: Any Chemists (rust)
18/04/2017 18:36:35
Posted by Martin King 2 on 18/04/2017 16:39:20:

Hi Guys,

This is kid of on topic so please forgive the slight deviation. My continual problem is keeping tools stored before sale but after preparation in good clean rust free condition.

By far and away the best product for this comes from a company that sells tiny little pots of Vapour Phase Imhibitor, these are a small piece of sponge with some of the magic product on it enough to just dampen a bit of sponge about an inch square and 1/4" thick, I doubt in total there is 1/2 a cc if even that. Buying these by the 10 is still the eyewatering amount of £30 odd quid. It is a GREAT product but the cost of a litre of this ingredient must rival plutonium! I am all for people making a reasonable margin but his seems way OTT

Product name witheld

What is it that makes this stuff soooo expensive?

There must be a generic VPI chemical? How does VPI exactly work?

I have had to stop using it and now use mothballs in old Shippams paste jars which works pretty well but its getting harder and harder to catch the moths.........wink

Cheers,

Martin

 

Martin

I know exactly the ones you mean, because I use them too. Excellent, but expensive.

You can also use Napier VP90, a product primarily for stopping guns going rusty, I suspect it has the same active ingredient as the little pots - the Napier ones are sachets around 75mm square, and will probably protect a bigger area.

Edited By David Standing 1 on 18/04/2017 18:36:59

18/04/2017 18:33:04
Posted by Nick_G on 18/04/2017 14:26:28:

.

Let us have an update of results please David.

Nick

Nick

Will do happily, but i'm not sure where it might fall on my to do list, which is vast!

I have a 5m shed to build from scratch, then empty my garden toolshed and refelt the roof, then put all the non garden stuff from the toolshed, and all the woodworking stuff from my garage, into the new shed.

This then gives me room in my garage to finally set out the two lathes, two millling machines, Clarkson tool cutter grinder, two pillar drills and a linisher that are just in the corner in a jumble - but before I set these up I have to put a new consumer unit in the garage and totally rewire it, so I can run three machines from a rotary converter.

That's my 2017 taken care of! blush.

18/04/2017 13:36:45

But seriously, I have a whole tote tray full of Clarkson tool cutter attachments that are seriously rusty, I have just ordered 5L of the Frost's Evaporust to try out on them, so thanks Nick for the heads up thumbs up.

18/04/2017 13:33:04
Posted by Michael-w on 18/04/2017 11:21:41:
Posted by Nick_G on 18/04/2017 09:15:48:

.

Thanks for the replies guy's. yes

I wonder in it would 'save' that rusty Myford on ebay that was the topic of a thread the other day. wink

Nick

No I think it's still destined for the aquarium.

Michael W

It can keep the Super Adept company devil.

Thread: U-Profiles from Square Tubing
17/04/2017 13:05:21
Posted by Johannes Grabsch on 16/04/2017 16:57:44:

Is there maybe a company that could fold 14 mm channels from 1 mm material? Cheating ...

Johannes

In the workshop, there is no such thing as 'cheating', only 'solutions' wink 2.

Thread: Parafin blowlamp
14/04/2017 00:22:24

Julian

Yep, my dad had paraffin blowlamps and paraffin heaters too, plus Tilley and hurricane lamps as well.

Thread: Cutting fins on an IC engine
14/04/2017 00:01:17

Does your parting off tool have enough side relief /taper ground into it?

Thread: ER40 square collets
13/04/2017 23:59:16
Posted by John Haine on 13/04/2017 17:14:50:

David, not sure why it's interesting, but it isn't a shank it just fits on the Super 7 spindle nose.

I asked because you can get a square section holding 5c collet plus a cnc collet holding bushing with a parallel shank, but unfortunately the bushing is too big to go in an ER32 collet.

Thread: Parafin blowlamp
13/04/2017 23:47:47
Posted by Henry Artist on 13/04/2017 21:50:26:

I still use blowlamps for some jobs. Gas torches are very convenient for most soldering and brazing tasks but for boilermaking the soft bushy flame of a blowlamp is wonderful for getting heat into the copper.

I use modern blowlamps rather than antiques. Yes, they are still made because butane and propane gas are not readily available in all parts of the world.

The blowlamps I use are made by Motor Sich. They are made from steel and while they are primarily designed to use gasoline, by changing the jet size kerosene can be used as an alternative fuel.

motor sich lp-1m (1).jpg

motor sich lp-1m (3).jpg

motor sich lp-1m (4).jpg

motor sich lp-1m (2).jpg

The very comprehensive instructions include not only how to use the lamp but also maintenance, troubleshooting, and complete testing procedures. Helpfully, they are bilingual being written in both Ukrainian and Russian. thumbs up

Those of a nervous disposition who have only ever used butane powered DIY gas torches may find a sudden and pressing need to change their underwear when using one of these for the first time...

Now that's what I call a proper blowlamp! smile d

13/04/2017 23:46:55
Posted by Bazyle on 24/01/2016 23:09:13:

If the valve chamber is brass and it didn't free when sitting in paraffin then I don't think that WD40 will help. Instead tap the joint maybe with a brass bar keep tapping and it will break open the joint.

 

Or apply heat......with a blowlamp wink 2

 

And yes, WD40 is crap as a release agent.  I'd douse it in Plus Gas.

 

Edited By David Standing 1 on 13/04/2017 23:49:38

Thread: ER40 square collets
13/04/2017 16:37:33

What shank is your ER40 collet holder?

Thread: Encouraging new hobbyists
07/04/2017 10:26:13
Posted by Bazyle on 06/04/2017 23:40:52:

One advantage of model boats is that all of the bodywork is just wood so does not require much machinery and the flywheel is probably under 2 in diameter. Even a Super Adept can make a marine engine.

And, according to some, the Super Adept can also double up as the anchor wink 2 devil

Thread: Run out on a rotary table
30/03/2017 11:55:42
Posted by Journeyman on 30/03/2017 11:52:03:

Dave, I think you will find that those slots are for fitting keys to align the rotary table to the mill table without the need for measuring or setting up. Clip from the Grizzly/Vertex manual:-

rotabkeys.jpg

** Manual Link **

John

Edited By Journeyman on 30/03/2017 11:54:52

You realise that just made Dave now unemployable until 2090? wink 2.

30/03/2017 10:39:17
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 30/03/2017 10:20:54:
Posted by David Standing 1 on 29/03/2017 23:03:45:

Personally, if the workpiece is unsupported at the other end (and better practice even if it is), I would never use a rotary table just being clamped to the mill table by the base, even with a clamp on the back as well, as there are lots of leverage forces at play.

As well as the RT being clamped to the mill table, I would use a big angle plate or box big enough to also reach the top flange mount of the RT and clamp it there, as well as to the table.

Supporting the workpiece at the other end would probably cure most of the issues, but it still offends my engineering eye to see a RT just clamped near the table like that.

Not a criticism as such, just an observation wink

Excellent! I hadn't thought of doing that.

Reinforcing the sense of David's suggestion, although I successfully jammed a rear clamp into the groove at the back of the table, I don't think the slot is intended for that purpose. It's only about 5mm deep and using it didn't feel quite right.

The only down side is that I don't have a box or angle big enough to reach the top flange. On no! Another new entry on my ever growing 'to-do' list.

Many thanks,

Dave

I've got a WM18 and an HV6 RT, but I have never used it on its side. If I ever do, I might need a big angle plate or box too! smile p.

Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)
30/03/2017 10:10:34
Posted by Martin Kyte on 30/03/2017 10:06:24:

Day length is approx 10 1/4 earth hours and there are 9749502 1/2 days in the year. It doesn't appear to have a moon so there are no months. All this means you don't get many Christmas prezzies and if you received 12 MEW's per year you would get a new editor each time. At least you would have plenty of time to complete the bit of your serialized project before the next one turned up (with or without the corrections)

:0)

Martin

And at 812,458 days per month equivalent, Neil would have plenty of time to check the print magazine had the right issue number on wink 2.

Thread: Run out on a rotary table
29/03/2017 23:03:45

Personally, if the workpiece is unsupported at the other end (and better practice even if it is), I would never use a rotary table just being clamped to the mill table by the base, even with a clamp on the back as well, as there are lots of leverage forces at play.

As well as the RT being clamped to the mill table, I would use a big angle plate or box big enough to also reach the top flange mount of the RT and clamp it there, as well as to the table.

Supporting the workpiece at the other end would probably cure most of the issues, but it still offends my engineering eye to see a RT just clamped near the table like that.

Not a criticism as such, just an observation wink

Thread: What to buy next??
29/03/2017 22:37:01
Posted by duncan webster on 29/03/2017 19:46:51:

If you want to work to thous, don't rely on digi calipers, buy a micrometer

Or just get some decent digital calipers wink 2.

Thread: 3-phase to single phase
27/03/2017 18:21:47
Posted by Bob Brown 1 on 27/03/2017 18:15:29:

It begs the question why are they scrapping it?

I think the answer may be in line two of post one wink

Thread: Poor cutting
22/03/2017 15:08:33

Curtis

Got your PM, thanks.

Will call you in the next evening or two.

In the meantime, what I would suggest is that rather than replace the brass with a piece of mild steel and trying the tangential tool on that as has been suggested; I would keep the piece of brass in the chuck, but replace the tangential tool with a conventional tool and holder, and try facing the brass off with that - and, as has been suggested, preferably with a round nosed tool.

The reason for this is because it will then show up whether or not there is a problem with the tangential tool/holder, or an issue with the lathe, such as spindle or slide/gib wear.

I am also assuming that the tool tip was centred on the brass?

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