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Member postings for David Standing 1

Here is a list of all the postings David Standing 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford boring bar help
31/05/2019 13:18:24
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 31/05/2019 13:14:43:
Posted by roy entwistle on 31/05/2019 12:53:06:

I'm sorry but I can't imagine why anybody with a lathe would buy a boring bar.


A hefty boring bar turning between centres is unlikely to flex or chatter and it would do a good job boring a deep cylinder parallel. Never tried one myself but likely to be useful one day I think.

Always assumed the cutter was held by a grub-screw and doing it with a wedge is interesting. A home-made boring bar of that type would be very simple to make.


Edit: Whoops. I misunderstood what Roy meant! They are easy to make if you own a lathe. Sorry Roy.

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 31/05/2019 13:16:34

Ah, don't worry, that's two of us misunderstood! blush

31/05/2019 13:07:51
Posted by roy entwistle on 31/05/2019 12:53:06:

I'm sorry but I can't imagine why anybody with a lathe would buy a boring bar.


If they do not possess a milling machine, perhaps to bore holes?

Seems a reasonable reason to me! wink

Thread: Colchester Lathe Factory
31/05/2019 10:07:05
Posted by Journeyman on 31/05/2019 09:45:01:
Posted by Hopper on 31/05/2019 03:49:34:

Just a matter of money. If a new Myford is 5,000 quid, what price a shiny new Colchester?

Don't know about that Colchester but a new Harrison M300 which is about the same spec will cost around £15,000 (+VAT) which if you say it quickly doesn't sound too bad. Colchester, Harrison and Clausing are all part of the 600 group and all their new lathes seem to sport the Colchester livery and logo.


Edited By Journeyman on 31/05/2019 09:54:05

Today's Student and M300 are badge engineered clones of each other.

As John says, a new M300/Student (long bed) is around £20k all in.

Mine is all the lathe I will ever need laugh

30/05/2019 23:11:48

Yep wink


Thread: Adept and Super Adept Register
23/05/2019 18:21:40
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 23/05/2019 17:09:10:
Posted by Brian Oldford on 23/05/2019 11:27:09:



Bugger that, that's what electric motors were invented for! devil

19/05/2019 09:42:01

It is worth resurrecting this thread every once in a while, if only to note the late, great, JS's comments laugh

Thread: Machine moving recommendations.
17/05/2019 16:28:47

Been there with the machine moving dilemma on a number of occasions.

Pricing includes getting to you, and getting back to base, plus the extra mileage if they are not close to you.

If you are employing someone with a HIAB, you have the choice of a 3.5 ton vehicle, or 7.5 ton upwards.

Firstly, if you have 3 x 500 kg machines, that would probably put you over the weight carrying capacity of a 3.5 ton vehicle - 3.5 ton is the gross all up weight, on average they will probably carry a payload of around 1,000 kg/1 ton max.

With a 7.5 ton upwards vehicle, all of the costs are more because of the larger vehicle.

Truth is, if you employ someone to do it for you, nobody is cheap - it is a day out for them, a probably 350 mile round trip Manchester/London/Manchester, fuel costs, wear and tear on the vehicle, having to make a profit etc.

A commercial mover will also have the costs of employee salary, employee overheads, premises etc.

Thread: CROBALT...Lathe tools
10/05/2019 19:25:24


Thread: Turning Cast Iron question - Health & Cleaning Up
07/05/2019 08:36:04
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 06/05/2019 22:33:23:

stop me producing black snot for two days.


Waaaaaaay too much information Neil surprise

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
01/05/2019 16:47:56
Posted by John Hinkley on 01/05/2019 16:05:38:

I'm all-metric as a rule


Lucky man, if only my life were that simple!

I have projects/machines that are:











Enfield small arms standard

And probably some more I have forgotten!

Thread: Does anyone know where I can source a Myford 34t change gear?
29/04/2019 08:06:30
Posted by ANDREW GELSON on 28/04/2019 20:57:54:

RDG sell Myford spares

See posts #3 and #5 smiley

Thread: "Screwing" a car round a corner!
27/04/2019 14:34:14

Decades ago it would have been oversteer, today drifting.

Thread: Pivoting bolt
24/04/2019 17:52:20

A photograph, as ever in these situations, would help! smiley

Thread: DIY Bed Gap
24/04/2019 17:51:02
Posted by not done it yet on 24/04/2019 17:43:23:
Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 24/04/2019 16:18:20:


Being a Saab, these discs were quirky in that they included a drum for the separate hand-brake shoes. The working surface of these drums corroded very badly, as they didn't ever do any real work,. I could skim them with the same set-up.


Not particularly quirky or only Saab. Peugeot rear brakes had drums for the handbrake. They changed, between 2002 and 2005, to hand brakes using the discs.

If I recall correctly, at one time under the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations in force at that time, from a safety point of view, handbrake mechanisms had to be mechanical, and not hydraulic, operated. The drum within a disc arrangement got round this requirement.

Thread: Boxford X10 user manual pdf
21/04/2019 11:12:20


If you didn't know, you might like to note this thread:


Thread: Lathe controls position
17/04/2019 17:53:46

My recently acquired Student has the start/stop/forward/reverse switch located on the saddle (the big red knob in the photo, stop in centre, up for reverse, down for forward)).

Very safe and very handy!


Thread: Poor finish using indexable lathe tools on steel
15/04/2019 21:17:49

Reduce your tool overhang too, if you can.




Edited By David Standing 1 on 15/04/2019 21:18:08

Thread: How to get that high end paint finish
13/04/2019 13:52:55
Posted by Rainbows on 13/04/2019 12:44:06:

My current brush is a Synthetic Harris Trade Fine Tip 2" or 2 1/4". Its the second cheapest screwfix sold (I thought avoiding the truly cheapest might give me an edge). I was thinking that some bristles on a stick are some bristles on a stick no matter how cheap. Will have a look around for the more expensive brushes.

Think my sandpaper was 320 grit, was sanding dry but with all the paint immediately clogging my paper I was considering using water to see if that helped, will do so in the future.

I do not like synthetic brushes, they flick paint, and do not flow as well as real bristle.

Also, if your paper is immediately clogging with paint, the paint is too soft/hasn't fully gone off.

When you say sandpaper, do you really mean sandpaper? Sandpaper will fall apart if wet, only wet and dry will work wet.

I spent years working in bodyshops, so do have a bit of background in paint prep and finishing.

13/04/2019 13:48:19
Posted by Rainbows on 13/04/2019 10:15:19:

I looked at my mini lathe and they have done a pretty good job of getting a perfectly flat finish with some no doubt cheap labour. Can anyone see the part of my process that is giving me such uneven fninishes?

Remember if making a comparison that you are brush painting, and the manufacturers spray paint.

Thread: Milling curves
09/04/2019 10:09:17
Posted by Roy Garden on 21/03/2019 23:38:16:

Gents, I'm profoundly grateful for the advice, thank you all.
Through some budding bodgineering (which is what I aspire to) and using hints and tips from this thread, I've kind of got close to what I was after.

The "nail it to the table, and spin it round" advice kind of covers most of the equipment I currently have.
The "File it, it's faster and easier" Well, I have a car, driving to get a bacon buttie is fast and easy, flying there is a pain in the butt, slow, unreliable, fraught with wasted effort, but good fun ! (99 times out of 100, I'll take the easy option, but when it's new . . I'll go with the wasted effort just for the experience)
Can I file? Yes.
Do I want to file? No, that's why I bought a belt sander.
(Tho, having said that, I've never heard of using bearings whilst filing, Can I get a link for how that works? )

I went with the "Pin through a hole and rotate in the vice" method, Sadly, a long (ish) piece of work and a low vice meant I managed very little of the curve that way, but enough to get a "feel" for the shape, 5 minutes on the belt sander and, from a distance, with yer glasses off, in low light, it kind of, looks ok.

Probably 4 hours time playing with the mill today, I think the finish looks good (it's what I wanted to see)
I'm discovering that "machining" is probably best done by fairly accurate sawing, finished off by machining the bits the saw can't do and providing a surface texture.
An hour spent cleaning (that's new to me too, I'm sure I'll get faster) and the garage has a shiny, uncompleted "bit" in it, a clean shiny mill, and a happy bunny who is now waiting for more "essential tools" to arrive.
In the meantime, I can pick the swarf out of my socks . . .
(and try to hide the battery Dyson from the wife, it looks a bit sad for having eaten lots of aluminium swarf and WD40)

Thanks again, I shall be asking more questions as I blunder along the learning curve.

Edited By Roy Garden on 21/03/2019 23:42:20

Edited to remove oil rig language.

Edited By JasonB on 22/03/2019 10:03:55

I like your humour smile

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