|Thread: Adept and Super Adept Register|
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 23/05/2019 17:09:10
Posted by Brian Oldford on 23/05/2019 11:27:09
Bugger that, that's what electric motors were invented for!
It is worth resurrecting this thread every once in a while, if only to note the late, great, JS's comments
|Thread: Machine moving recommendations.|
Been there with the machine moving dilemma on a number of occasions.
Pricing includes getting to you, and getting back to base, plus the extra mileage if they are not close to you.
If you are employing someone with a HIAB, you have the choice of a 3.5 ton vehicle, or 7.5 ton upwards.
Firstly, if you have 3 x 500 kg machines, that would probably put you over the weight carrying capacity of a 3.5 ton vehicle - 3.5 ton is the gross all up weight, on average they will probably carry a payload of around 1,000 kg/1 ton max.
With a 7.5 ton upwards vehicle, all of the costs are more because of the larger vehicle.
Truth is, if you employ someone to do it for you, nobody is cheap - it is a day out for them, a probably 350 mile round trip Manchester/London/Manchester, fuel costs, wear and tear on the vehicle, having to make a profit etc.
A commercial mover will also have the costs of employee salary, employee overheads, premises etc.
|Thread: CROBALT...Lathe tools|
|Thread: Turning Cast Iron question - Health & Cleaning Up|
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 06/05/2019 22:33:23
stop me producing black snot for two days.
Waaaaaaay too much information Neil
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Posted by John Hinkley on 01/05/2019 16:05:38
I'm all-metric as a rule
Lucky man, if only my life were that simple!
I have projects/machines that are:
Enfield small arms standard
And probably some more I have forgotten!
|Thread: Does anyone know where I can source a Myford 34t change gear?|
Posted by ANDREW GELSON on 28/04/2019 20:57:54
RDG sell Myford spares
See posts #3 and #5
|Thread: "Screwing" a car round a corner!|
Decades ago it would have been oversteer, today drifting.
|Thread: Pivoting bolt|
A photograph, as ever in these situations, would help!
|Thread: DIY Bed Gap|
Posted by not done it yet on 24/04/2019 17:43:23
Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 24/04/2019 16:18:20
Being a Saab, these discs were quirky in that they included a drum for the separate hand-brake shoes. The working surface of these drums corroded very badly, as they didn't ever do any real work,. I could skim them with the same set-up.
Not particularly quirky or only Saab. Peugeot rear brakes had drums for the handbrake. They changed, between 2002 and 2005, to hand brakes using the discs.
If I recall correctly, at one time under the Motor Vehicle Construction and Use Regulations in force at that time, from a safety point of view, handbrake mechanisms had to be mechanical, and not hydraulic, operated. The drum within a disc arrangement got round this requirement.
|Thread: Boxford X10 user manual pdf|
If you didn't know, you might like to note this thread:
|Thread: Lathe controls position|
My recently acquired Student has the start/stop/forward/reverse switch located on the saddle (the big red knob in the photo, stop in centre, up for reverse, down for forward)).
Very safe and very handy!
|Thread: Poor finish using indexable lathe tools on steel|
Reduce your tool overhang too, if you can.
Edited By David Standing 1 on 15/04/2019 21:18:08
|Thread: How to get that high end paint finish|
Posted by Rainbows on 13/04/2019 12:44:06
My current brush is a Synthetic Harris Trade Fine Tip 2" or 2 1/4". Its the second cheapest screwfix sold (I thought avoiding the truly cheapest might give me an edge). I was thinking that some bristles on a stick are some bristles on a stick no matter how cheap. Will have a look around for the more expensive brushes.
Think my sandpaper was 320 grit, was sanding dry but with all the paint immediately clogging my paper I was considering using water to see if that helped, will do so in the future.
I do not like synthetic brushes, they flick paint, and do not flow as well as real bristle.
Also, if your paper is immediately clogging with paint, the paint is too soft/hasn't fully gone off.
When you say sandpaper, do you really mean sandpaper? Sandpaper will fall apart if wet, only wet and dry will work wet.
I spent years working in bodyshops, so do have a bit of background in paint prep and finishing.
Posted by Rainbows on 13/04/2019 10:15:19
I looked at my mini lathe and they have done a pretty good job of getting a perfectly flat finish with some no doubt cheap labour. Can anyone see the part of my process that is giving me such uneven fninishes?
Remember if making a comparison that you are brush painting, and the manufacturers spray paint.
|Thread: Milling curves|
Posted by Roy Garden on 21/03/2019 23:38:16
Gents, I'm profoundly grateful for the advice, thank you all.
Through some budding bodgineering (which is what I aspire to) and using hints and tips from this thread, I've kind of got close to what I was after.
The "nail it to the table, and spin it round" advice kind of covers most of the equipment I currently have.
The "File it, it's faster and easier" Well, I have a car, driving to get a bacon buttie is fast and easy, flying there is a pain in the butt, slow, unreliable, fraught with wasted effort, but good fun ! (99 times out of 100, I'll take the easy option, but when it's new . . I'll go with the wasted effort just for the experience)
Can I file? Yes.
Do I want to file? No, that's why I bought a belt sander.
(Tho, having said that, I've never heard of using bearings whilst filing, Can I get a link for how that works? )
I went with the "Pin through a hole and rotate in the vice" method, Sadly, a long (ish) piece of work and a low vice meant I managed very little of the curve that way, but enough to get a "feel" for the shape, 5 minutes on the belt sander and, from a distance, with yer glasses off, in low light, it kind of, looks ok.
Probably 4 hours time playing with the mill today, I think the finish looks good (it's what I wanted to see)
I'm discovering that "machining" is probably best done by fairly accurate sawing, finished off by machining the bits the saw can't do and providing a surface texture.
An hour spent cleaning (that's new to me too, I'm sure I'll get faster) and the garage has a shiny, uncompleted "bit" in it, a clean shiny mill, and a happy bunny who is now waiting for more "essential tools" to arrive.
In the meantime, I can pick the swarf out of my socks . . .
(and try to hide the battery Dyson from the wife, it looks a bit sad for having eaten lots of aluminium swarf and WD40)
Thanks again, I shall be asking more questions as I blunder along the learning curve.
Edited By Roy Garden on 21/03/2019 23:42:20
Edited to remove oil rig language.
Edited By JasonB on 22/03/2019 10:03:55
I like your humour
|Thread: Unusual drills|
A photograph would help
|Thread: Myford 254s accessories ?|
Posted by Karl Roberts on 24/03/2019 11:38:26
Hi I’ve just purchased a myford 254s but I’m having massive problems trying to source a 3 point steady specific to the 254 which I need to need one important job required in my job, the lathe is in under condition pretty much so good condition the steady must be if possible
also I have sourced a genuine taper turning attachment specific to the 254 from Myford direct to Aid me in making customised cylindrical grinding centres but at over £500 I just can’t justify it so if anyone has one for sale please let me know.
.....oh and just one more thing the lathe is imperial so is anyone aware of a conversion kit for metric screw cutting available to buy as I can only find patches of parts required to do the full job needed for the conversion any help greatly appreciated
254 accessories are as rare as hens teeth.
If you don't buy the taper turning attachment that is available, chances are it will be gone. Home & Workshop Machinery had one, that has gone.
|Thread: What new lathe?|
Posted by Bill Phinn on 25/03/2019 22:15:01
The Colchester looks wonderful, David.
My initial thought was "he's got that nice Boxford and a Myford already. Why does he need the Colchester as well?"
And then I realised it was just my jealousy talking, and I might do exactly the same as you if I had the chance/space/funds.
Which is still jealousy talking, but amicable jealousy at least.
If it helps, the Boxford has gone
Lathe wise I have the Colchester, Myford 254S and Myford Speed 10 now.
Posted by Nigel McBurney 1 on 25/03/2019 17:24:29
Nice lathe,especially as it has the long bed,which does allow the tailstock to be pushed back out of the way,We all all have space problems,but rear access to the coolant tank and motor is adviseable,my Colchester master 2500 is back against the wall so the lathe has to be moved to get access to motor and tank.lack of regular cleaning of the tank led to corrosion and leaking of the tank,modern coolants go off quicker and bacteria form which turns the coolant into corrosive liquid.My Master has a 5 HP motor running off a converter and I certainly do not end up with 5 hp so get a good converter with more than adequate power,Though I have no personal experience perhaps some form of digital conversion to 3 phase may even be better,and worth investigating,no point in having a really good lathe which is underpowered.
There is space to get between the 254S and the Student to get to the coolant tank - albeit on hands and knees!