Here is a list of all the postings Steve Pavey has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: WHERE ARE THE SHAPER USERS ?|
Just measured mine and they are a touch over 28mm diameter, so a couple of 1” bars would be perfect.
|Thread: Invertek Optidrive Control Issue|
Yes, Ian’s right, there are multiple ways to connect and configure. This is the first time I’ve heard of an inverter that can use anything other than momentary switches!
If you follow Ian’s example of diagram 5 and macro 10 it might be worth adding that the start button is wired NO and the stop is wired NC
|Thread: Alfred Herbert high speed bench drill|
Firstly, to the op, it usually isn’t difficult to find the star point in a three phase motor - the first one I did was a bit daunting, but once you’ve taken the motor apart the worst bit is over.
I’ve got two Huan Yang vfd’s, both from China via eBay. The one on the lathe has been fitted for around five years now, and has always performed perfectly. I have another one on my cnc router running a 2.2kW spindle also works well, though I found out that it is a little susceptible to electrical noise from the controller and had to fit a small capacitor to the analogue speed inputs - total cost about £0.01. I have also found that Huan Yang use an unconventional Modbus standard, which doesn’t affect me at all as I don’t use Modbus.
So yes, I agree with John Fletcher - no reason not to buy a Huan Yang, especially if you just want to run a 3 phase induction motor. And I did actually look at buying something from a U.K. supplier - a 2.2kW model was £230, and apparently comes from Italy, and you can bet it is full of electrical components that come from China.
|Thread: Invertek Optidrive Control Issue|
Looking at the manual, the quick start on page six indicates that you need a latching switch:
”Quick Start – IP20
This seems a bit unusual to me, but I have never used this particular drive.
|Thread: Storing tools in bisley drawers advice|
I use carpet underlay in my (cheap Ikea) drawers.
|Thread: Boxford electrical problem|
My Boxford, (when I had it) did much the same. It was fitted with a ½ hp single phase motor and was mothballed for a while. When I finally got round to setting it up it was sluggish to start and ran slowly. It turned out to be old thick grease in the headstock bearings. After stripping it all out and cleaning it ran a lot better, though 1/2hp is really on the border line of inadequate for a Boxford, and it was much better when I fitted a 1hp motor.
|Thread: Multifix toolholder Vendors|
Karl - Steve Lawes posted (on page 2, near the top) a link to a Multifix catalogue - I think page 5.jpg has some dimensions which you can compare to your particular model. Failing that, I would imagine that one of the suppliers might help you out - someone has said that the PeWe Guy is very helpful, and I know from experience that emailing Create Tools in China usually gets an answer.
Edited By Steve Pavey on 18/02/2021 21:28:23
I’ve just measured the toolholders for my E set and the pins are 70mm apart, so yours must be the next size up, which is probably the B set.
If you go to this page, select one of the items and click the ‘More’ link it will take you to a drawing. While I can’t find the dimension you mention, there are other dimensions you can use as a guide. I suspect yours is the E size, which has 100mm tool slots, so 80mm between the pins sounds about right. I’ll measure mine later and let you know.
|Thread: Chinese AT vfd heatsink and grounding|
It would help to know the make and model of the vfd in question in case others have the same model and want to compare theirs to see if the same ‘fault’ is present. Having just spent a long time sorting out a small control problem with my own Huanyang vfd, I can confirm that there is a variety of voltages present between various terminals when measured with a DMM. And there is a difference between ground, common and earth terminals.
|Thread: Seized stopcock|
There should be a valve in the road or pavement outside which you can isolate the supply with.
I have freed off stuck valves before (usually gate valves which are notorious for seizing solid), but only by using the methods you describe - take off the gland nut and squirt plenty of penetrating oil down the shaft, then stick the handle back on and see if you can gently start it moving with some mole grips/water pump pliers or whatever tool you can find. I wouldn’t do this without locating a stop valve further upstream though - if it goes wrong it will ruin your day.
|Thread: One place for all ???|
You’ve picked out the one example of an item that is actually difficult to get hold of. I spent a long time trawling various sites for an iso30 boring head and as you say all those listed seem to be anything other than iso30. I did find one in the end from a U.K. site (pretty sure it was RDG), the downside being that it came with a set of those awful and useless cutters in a cheap wooden block. I am now trying to find some decent tools to fit it, without much success.
I don’t think there is such a thing as a one-stop shop though. As others have suggested, maybe best to buy with the next job in mind. One supplier I can recommend for hard to find items is Jurassic Tools.
|Thread: Workshop/Garage Insulation/Space Heating|
“Effective vapour barrier in walls, floors and ceilings. Vapour barrier must go inside the insulation the air inside a building is almost always wetter than the air outside and we don't want that wet air to saturate the insulation, which would render it nearly useless”
Agreed. I’d go as far as to say that a proper vapour barrier is the single most important factor in making sure a workshop is useable. If you do anything in the workshop that produces water vapour you might need to restrict it to warm dry days when you can open the doors up - and if you need mechanical ventilation then stick a fan in at high level, as moist air is less dense than dry air.
I like the sound of an air/air heat pump - has anyone fitted one and if so are there any recommendations- make, size, etc??
|Thread: VFD recommendations|
Just in case anyone is interested, I sorted the problem of my spindle speed being incorrect. A 0.1uF polyester capacitor across the analogue input terminals cured it completely and instantly. It’s just a shame that I ordered a rather expensive known-brand inverter before discovering the fix! Oh well, if the HY does turn it’s toes up I will have a replacement ready.
Back to the OP, the biggest bonus I’ve found with the vfd on my mill is being able to power tap and reverse back out again. So glad I didn’t fit a single phase motor.
|Thread: Spindle speed, vfd and Mach4|
Just in case this helps someone else (which is unlikely given the response!!) I have managed, with help, to diagnose the problem. It seems that the analogue inputs of the Huan Yang vfd are prone to generating noise which affects the applied signal. The cure was cheap, simple and 100% effective - a 0.1 uF polyester capacitor across the analog input terminals (marked AO and ACM). As well as restoring the Hz output of the vfd to what Mach4 tells it to be, it also eradicates the hunting that was occurring, with the frequency floating approx +/- 12hz.
|Thread: If it looks like an MCB .....|
Big Clive says in the video that none of the standards tests an electrician would carry out would show this mcb up as a fake, which is a bit worrying.
|Thread: VFD recommendations|
“The electrical noise can sometimes be reduced by sheilding all the wiring including the control wiring. There can even be problems with different potentials in the earthing circuit.”
Yes, this is what I’m finding. The wiring for the analogue speed control is shielded, but if I earth the shielding the spindle speed drops by about 15%! To be honest, and having tried many combinations of shielding and earthing/not earthing I don’t think it will ever run at exactly the speed that Mach4 commands - I’ve settled on a sort of ‘near-enough is good enough’ setup for the moment and will probably end up replacing the Huanyang for something from Japan or Germany.
I’ve had a go at setting up modbus and rs485 for the speed control, but Huanyang vfd’s don’t use the accepted modbus standards so I’ve got nowhere with it so far, added to which I’m well outside my comfort zone with that sort of stuff.
Edited By Steve Pavey on 01/02/2021 20:25:07
I have a Yaskawa, a Lenze and Huanyang. All three work fine, and the first two were bought cheaply secondhand, and all are running conventional workshop machines 230v delta.
i have just bought another Huanyang to run a cnc spindle, but I’m finding that it is a bit susceptible to electrical noise - something that isn’t really a problem if you’re just running a lathe or a mill. I’m pretty sure that a better quality vfd would be less likely to suffer from this sort of problem, but that’s just a rather uneducated guess.
One thing to be aware of is that some vfd’s (like the Lenze for example) don’t always come with a keypad or the software to set it up, and they can cost a lot extra.
|Thread: Have You considered getting a 3D printer|
I wonder what blacksmiths said when the first metal turning lathes and pillar drills were introduced?
“No skill and what have you achieved ?”
Not “no skill”. Just different skills.
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