Here is a list of all the postings Norfolk Boy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Anyone recognise this optical magnifier|
Thanks for the info. I must admit I have tried a number of ways to look at things with it, and concluded that it is so difficult to use that I will never have a use for it. I have managed up to now with other means of looking closely at things and I have a set of binocular twin optic microscope (don't know what else to call it) that I found at work that I assume were used in very early fibre splicing techniques.
I use them infrequently also to be honest, mostly doubling up with reading glasses gets me by. I am just scratching the surface of decluttering in an attempt to create enough space and ready access to things so I can acheive something without spending all day trying to find things. Wasn't a problem when I was younger I remembered where everything thing was, now I have to see things as I glance around. I do realise this is a drop in the ocean but it turned up in the excercise.
Interesting, I work in communications and do splice optical fibres, but I have only been doing it for the last 20 years with relatively modern equipment with lcds screens etc, and have never done the polishing, seen someone do it once. Now looking at the link below the extra light source needed makes a bit more sense, without that not sure its much use.
Having a bit of a clearout (long way to go) found this item in a drawer. I didn't photo the ends but theres a lens each end. I assume it needs an external light source to get the most out of it. I would be interested in it's purpose. It's made in Germany and I think it may be something to do with photography as I acquired it from my father ..I think.
|Thread: What is this electric clock mechanism|
Hi Simon, I used to run one of these using a GPO clock No 36. To drive the clock mechanism will require quite a bit of current for the oomph needed at 48 Volt. I used a system of a slave relay to protect the master clock movement contacts to drive a nicad on float charge to give the neccessary oomph. Very simple and worked for years. So just saying I would advise as Simon mentions above use the relay. Be aware they are quite noisy aith a noticable clunk every 30 seconds. I presume if you operate the mech yours moves on half a minute?
I sold my clock 36 Mechanism and converted the clock to a quiet german quartz mech. Finding one with the right hands was a fiddle. Alan
P.S just so I don't drive Robert into apoplexy with such heresy, I kept the old drive so it can be restored should anyone wish.
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 07/02/2019 07:46:46
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 07/02/2019 07:49:53
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 07/02/2019 07:52:12
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
"what does this phrase mean please? not familiar with this bit of English."
I think most readily interpreted as the "visual vernacular" (if such a thing exists) of "give the finger" or the V sign, as in "up yours" I hope that has not offended. Maybe even modern, "Yeah Whatever" then do as you like.
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 09/01/2019 21:15:43
|Thread: Modern efficiency !!!!!!!!!|
I tend to keep my cars I bought one in 2000 and still have it but I also bought a new one 3 years ago with the same idea to keep. I have had a EGR fail at 17,000 miles and I get more than a little peeved when the dealership tries to put the blame on the driver. Oh do you do short journeys? No. Do you sit in a lot of traffic because that's what does it, No I don't sit in traffic and I do drive up to the legal limits but it's hard to thrash an auto. It's a design issue to overcome the regulations. I think I will still have my old 20 year car when this one goes into sensor overload and I am not allowed to diagnose the issue because the dealership has the management system sewn up. My old one I have got a device to access the computer and when I needed to get the SRS light turned off the dealers wanted £70 just to turn off the light I bought the device to do it and other stuff for £50. The world has gone mad and we the consumer have let it.
Rant just started Alan
|Thread: Resiliant or standard metric foot mounted motor?|
My Harrison M250 was a factory 240Volt motor with twin link belt and a weighted flywheel and resilient feet, which shows how much they thought a 240V motor needs damping. I fitted a 3 phase motor no resilience as per Harrison 3 phase spec and matched v belts and the difference was not just noticeable but remarkable. The machine is smooth and quiet. I would have no hesitation in hard mounting the motor if you are going 3 phase VFD. That said if it is the easier option I see no harm in fitting a resilient type of motor.
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 03/12/2018 20:22:43
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 03/12/2018 20:23:12
|Thread: Can anyone identify this press?|
Hah, I can't believe I did not spot the steering rack gearing. I have only recently replaced the rack on my old Volvo and was stripping it down to replace the seals but came across a better one already done. So I have a rack and pinion in my spares/scrap box only 3 feet away. I will try to do it justice and make appropriate accessories as I go along. As I say it does seem to be nicely made.
I think it's possible without stripping it down that the handle shaft is the original helically cut steering column shaft as the angle fits that idea. Won't know unless I pull it apart.
Hi All, I don't know specifically what this is. It looks like it's been designed well, and constructed well, with what seems to me a complicated angled rack on the driven shaft to do the pressing.
I can see what it's ability is with interchangeable cutters and plate but it's fitted with what it came with and I have no other cutters. Looks like it was last used to punch square holes in thin sheet.
The base is 10" x 10" in old money.
|Thread: VFD Choice|
PD072 default is 50 Hz maybe up that to 120Hz
Hi ...again, Not used a Huanyang but did consider them, I seem to remember reading something about them defaulting to 400Hz max speed because they are mostly used to run high speed CNC and 120 Hz min speed. Make sure your frequency parameters are set to more appropriate limits.
Hi, The value of the pot will not make too much difference. As long as you are using Voltage detection not current. There will be 0 Volt one end and 10 Volt the other. The slider will return from 0V to 10V across the sweep range regardless of resistance. anywhere from 1k to 20 k pot should be workable. Even if it's a log pot all that means is you will get a rapid change one end of the travel.
It is far more likely you will find one of your settings will be at 50% or thereabouts somewhere, and only changing across a range 0-5volt and then ignoring the 5-10 volt range .it's not uncommon for factory default to be odd.
Edit just read Martins post sayng the same thing(If the VFD only expects a value in the range 0-5V and the pot has 0-15V across it then after 30% of the pot's movement the VFD is seeing the voltage for full speed. Are there any parameters to change the speed select input voltage?)
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 14/07/2018 10:43:36
|Thread: Inverter Control Query|
This to some extent will depend on the make of the inverter, and/or the model in their range. Enhanced models such as the Mitsubishi E700 SC this can refer to, 720 series single phase or 740 3 phase. The point is the "SC" designation, this is designed to link in to a safety module (some standard ISO thing). For home purposes it is quite simple to use the 2 inputs as a break switch for E stop. (There will be people who wish to argue no doubt) If it is not SC desigantion (relatively recent tech I think) then other options needed.
Yaskawa on their V1000 model also have this, as well as a parameter for "fast stop" programmable to a digital input which also locks out the inverter.
To make them a safety stop they lock out any further possibility of engaging power to the motor, thus you can do without a mains NVR lock out in the home shop and still be in safe practice .
It is also possible to do it with relays that self latch on power start momentary buttons. The safety will cut power to the latched relay and because the safety button phsically latches the relays are unable to reenable. The relays will also give you 3 wire capability with 2 wire programming leaving some inputs free for other purposes like jog.
I would suggest downloading manuals of the inverters you are considering and working through them. Initially it can be a bit daunting until you realise there are only a few key things you need out of all of it.
Hope that helps and not confuses.
|Thread: "Reforming" VFD Capacitors|
The company I work for took it seriously enough to routinely (6 months) cycle all the power supply cards that were in the spares cupboards with the working units and swap to reform the capacitors.
When the accountants started running things rather than engineers they decided sending people out to do this routine was a waste of time. The result was not wholescale exploding capacitors (certainly never heard of it) but given the scale there was an increase in dead on the shelf power units when needed. Enough to reinstate the cylcle routine, If nothing else to identify duff spares early. This equipment was put in in the 1980's and is still working and doesn't have a huge failure rate in service. The degradation of the plastic runners holding the cards has been more of a problem.
When I was at college studying electronics some bright spark put a small electrolytic across the bench power supply. Nothing happened for about 3 minutes...then Crack and the room was full of snow. Amazing how much fluff could come out of something so small.
I have been looking at VFD's recently having just bought a couple for the lathes to convert and I read about the reforming. One instruction said after reforming let it sit as that is the time the oxide layer is then rebuilt.
Also advised by a very helpful supplier that they just put it on a 110Volt supply for a while first and that was broadly across all makes.
Type "abb capacitor reforming guide" in google for advice on their processes.
|Thread: Milling very hard steel|
Will a C spanner fit that hole?
I wore contacts for a while and for outdoor pusuits they are brilliant. You can wear standard sunglasses over. Rain is not a visibilty issue. I used to wear varifocal contacts which whilst not terribly sharp for indoor use, with enough light outside they are perfectly adequate and more convenient than messing about with reading glasses. Sadly I cannot wear them now as I seem to have a dry patch that makes them uncomfortable.
It can sometimes be difficult to gettthe prescription right first time as it does not neccessarily match your glasses prescription. Failing that Mono focals can work well, one in one eye for reading and distance in the other eye, although some people can find it odd.
"Perhaps Alan couldn't get his lens reframed because he told the optician they were for use in a workshop? "
No not at all, the glasses are safety galsses with shields, I told them nothing, just asked for a relens their purpose is irrelevant, it was a simple request to the normal staff who know little about what they are talking about, but insist they know more than you do (sorry did I say that out loud my cynicism keeps getting out). They were most adamant.
I will just qualify my cynicism, last pair of (ordinary) glasses at Boots, had the eye test.:-
Glasses made. Turn up to collect, muppet badly mangles arms, I say I cannot see properly, ...response our customers find they need to get used to them, ...me, the prescription is wrong, argue, argue, ...further eye test different prescription. Ok I can now see, but only if I hold my head off centre, lenses not centred properly. Cut the long story, ended up 4 pairs later and I now have the best glasses I have ever had, but how many people are wrongly prescribed, badly made and/or fitted and cannot face the agro and revisits I had to go through. I might try an independant next time.
Edited By Norfolk Boy on 31/12/2017 21:39:29
Hi John MC,
I am fortunate to get my safety glasses vouchers from work, varifocals. Boots used to do it with BOLLE frames and now we havce switched to specsavers who used to do their own naff frames but now they have a selection of JCB which seem OK. My glasses don't come in for any abuse so when my prescription changed I tried with both companies to get a pair relensed as a spare for trhe workshop, both companies refused, citing they could not gaurentee the safety integrity of the glasses unless it was a new frame.
I wonder where you were able to get yours re lensed. Mine are CR39 plastic I think, kitemarked 5-1.1<2.512SO>
|Thread: How should I PROPERLY move a Senior mill and Colchester Master?|
I moved a three quarter sized bridgeport (Warco WM20) and a Myford 254s on a trailer, a good ivor Williams not a flimsy job. The hard part that needs thinking about is how to get them on and off.
Good old BIG crowbars, (wish I had full length bar with pivot but made do) and wedges to start raising it off the floor and several lengths of adequately sized scaffold tube. This will enabled you to get over thresholds and minor obstacles, and allow turns, ply needed over grass. Lifting it/them needs strops and shackles and strops or rope around mid points of the main strops and machine to prevent slippage. (belt and braces)
I used a modified non folding 2 ton crane to lift the mill and then move things away from the machine rather than try to move the crane, then drop onto rollers again. So you need to be able to get the feet /legs under the transport beyond centre of gravity. I modified the main pivot point of the crane to take out the lateral play with a piece of bar threaded both ends as an interferencee fit almost. If the weight starts going sideways it won't stop and you should not try to stop it.
Safety wise you need someone who is in command if it doesn't look right or someone is getting carried away (and they do) you need to stop it fast and rethink. Brute force will help but only if applied in a safe thought out way mostly best avoided. Imbalance of the weight is the main problem not the actual weight. Loading the milling machine was made so easy with a tractor and fork and the other end on a farm with a telehandler done safely in minutes, problem was to get from there to suburbia.
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