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Member postings for Nick Hulme

Here is a list of all the postings Nick Hulme has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: DRO to vertical mill z axis
17/10/2019 22:25:43

DRO or Digital Scale?
I used digital scales for a while, they're useful but not a patch on a DRO.

Thread: Curve Cut Problem
17/10/2019 22:23:17

If you add what CAD/CAM/Controller you are using people with relevant experience will be able to comment.

Thread: At last - no more chattering when parting off!
09/10/2019 20:21:17
Posted by Mark Rand on 07/10/2019 20:34:02:

Just being picky here, but it seemed to me that there was still quite a lot of chatter in the 'tool'. It might have needed a more sturdy 'tool holder'.

There was a lot of chatter in the tool, but it's his video........
I'll get me coat! :D

Thread: Metrication of models
04/10/2019 17:31:44

It's predominantly a case of substituting alternate threads which will work (i.e. not having an over-size major OD which interferes with another aspect of the part) and using a calculator.
Anyone working in metric and unable to machine from an imperial print should find themselves a new gaming machine to play with as that's all they're good for.

Thread: cutter slippage using ER series collets
27/09/2019 23:47:06

Unlikely to slip if used correctly on a good quality tool shank, read up on what bits should be clean and oil-free when fitting the tool and use the correct torque.
Blaming the tools and all that :D

Thread: M8x1 left hand tap.
19/09/2019 09:29:31
Posted by Pete Savage on 18/09/2019 11:18:10:

he idea was to make phosphor bronze sacrificial anti backlash nuts to try and get the backlash and friction down to help with the fitting of CNC, so an investment in a tool likely to last a few sets sounds good.

If going the CNC route go straight to Ball Screws, suitably sized ones for your machine will not break the bank.

Thread: Myford Bull Wheel Indexing
17/09/2019 18:06:34

That's cute, neat and well executed.
Nice job!

Thread: Anyone know where I can get hold of 'Gauge Rods'
09/09/2019 21:47:55

I'd just make a mount for a digital gauge on the top slide, measure from a shoulder to a face or face a known length from the shoulder

Thread: Loctite minefield
31/08/2019 18:03:13

Ask your supplier.

Thread: Travelling Steady
03/08/2019 09:01:56

You can make soft tips for softer materials, try Nylon or Delrin tips.

Thread: Floor Paint
02/08/2019 12:29:24

Water based hasn't yet matched the durability of solvent or polymer based, when it does you'll know, you'll no longer have to clean bird poop off your new car ASAP lest it strip the paint! :D

Thread: Toyo MD-1 mini drill - drive belts needed
29/07/2019 16:58:55
Posted by Manfred Baer on 22/07/2019 21:06:18:

Brian, Rik,

Thanks for your support. Since having some experience with PU belting on spinning wheels (wife) my first choice would be a seamless o-ring. I found that it is quite a task to achieve a (more or less) true running PU joint even for a low rev application like a spinning wheel.

Manfred

Use V blocks and a straight edge, works perfectly every time for round PU belting and also for bonding O rings from cord.

Thread: Gibraltar Toolpost
22/07/2019 19:21:40

I have a Long Bed Super 7 and can take deep, accurate cuts on 30mm OD 304 stainless steel without need for a special tool post.
This leads me to think that the short bed Myford 7 lathes have a level of bed flexibility that require solutions not required for the Long Bed.

Thread: Wiggler or edge finder?
19/07/2019 21:51:30

Both, plus a decent 3D tester, they all excel in different ways.

Thread: Finally sort of know which lathe to buy, but?
19/07/2019 21:49:08

If you want significantly more rigidity look for a long bed Super 7b, the bed casting is deeper and heavier and there is nothing fragile about it.

But as a Myford owner I suggest you look for something of a later design with hardened prismatic ways, a gear head and a separate feed drive from the lead screw.

19/07/2019 17:35:26

A lot of new and re-manufactured small parts are available for repair & maintenance.

Must haves - 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, face plate, and some basic turning tools suitable for the work you actually intend to start out with .For the tailstock a revolving centre and a chuck, beyond that buy it as you need it

A gearbox is great for the advertised set of pitches, beyond that you have to mess with change gears anyway, I cut such an oddball variety of metric and imperial threads I'm glad I didn't spend an extra £500 or so on a gearbox

You need about a foot clear at the tailstock end for when you need to take the tailstock off, at the headstock end you need enough space to open the door on the gear cluster and/or to accommodate the length of material you need to have through the headstock, around 8" as a minimum.

Edited By Nick Hulme on 19/07/2019 17:35:53

Thread: Myford Change Gear trouble
16/07/2019 17:16:14

Yes, add spacers, or skim the quadrant to align correctly.

Thread: Inverter Remote Stop button.
14/07/2019 11:18:15
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 19/02/2014 11:25:19:

There are four ways of 'stopping' an inverter powered motor.

1 An e-stop button before the inverter. This makes the motor coast to a stop and kills all power. It can damage the inverter, but is 100% guareanteed to cut all power.

2 Use the coast to stop function of the inverter. This works exactly as an e-stop but leave the inverter live. It can be wired to work from a 'break' switch so existing e-stop buttons can be used as well as limit switches etc. I have impemented this and it works. The stop is very sudden with my setup.

3 Fit a resistive brake to the inverter. This will more or less short the motor and it will stop dead. This is MUCH faster than with an e-stop, especially for machines with a lot of rotational inertia. It will leave the inverter itself live. This can be wired to be operated by e-stop and limit switches. I have not implemented this.

4 Use normal soft-stop buttons. This causes the motor to slow down gently to a stop over a preset period.

My approach is to use 4 for normal working as gentle stop/start helps avoid motor overheating and is less fraught. I use approach 2 for e-stop as it is very fast with my machine. The cautious would take approach 1 and in indiustry i'm sure they would use number 4 - active braking - to get the fastest stop possible.

Neil

Don't forget DC Injection Braking, an option available on many good drives which although not as fast as using a braking resistor is still quick enough to require positive retention on screw-on chucks to ensure they don't go on safari

Thread: broken myford changewheel
29/06/2019 20:29:07

Drill a well placed hole and open it out & square it up with a file - hey presto - keyway!

Thread: Wobbly slitting saws
29/06/2019 11:35:53

Buy cheap, buy twice (or more)
Or true them up and make a new arbour.

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