|Thread: Where do you put your chuck key?|
Posted by Sam Spoons on 08/05/2020 13:03:15
The things you need close at hand when working in the lathe? Things like keys for the QC tool post and tool inserts and the toolholder needed for the job but not for the current operation?
The obvious place for the chuck key on the Boxford is on top of the headstock with the spare tool holders on the back of the cabinet behind the bed but is that good practice (I always stop the lathe before reaching for anything but leaning over to get a different toolholder seems wrong somehow)?
Good practice is safe practice, if you always stop the lathe it's safe, I keep all of my tail stock tooling and head stock tooling on the wall behind the lathe, along with most of my QCTP holders.
|Thread: Imperial V Metric|
Posted by Garry Smith 7 on 02/05/2020 11:55:30
Thank you Gentlemen I didn’t make myself clear. I have a full set of drills offering the minor point sizes between the 2-3-4 mm etc.
I was asking in relationship to Milling cutters. My preferred supplier is ARC Euro and they only sell milling cutters in the full mm sizes and not in sizes between the 2-3-4 mm etc.
The steam way I want to cut are not holes in the steam chest but are ports ie the size I require is 2.4 mm wide x 9.25 mm long hence my question do I go up a size or down if I only have milling cutters to the whole mm size
If slots required "On Size" cutters we would all end up with an infinite number of cutters, you use the next size cutter down but you cut the slot or pocket to the correct size!
|Thread: Angular contact bearing end float in face-to-face config.|
Use a shim disc between the inner races to provide the required pre-load.
|Thread: Bending Stainless|
Posted by John Olsen on 30/01/2020 22:50:45
I have tried to silver solder stainless, with the right flux it can be done but I would not recommend it. TIG welding is the way to go with stainless, it is easy to do and provided there is no gap, you often don't even need filler. I found when making tanks for my steam launch that flanges are not needed, in fact they are a liability, and a corner will weld very nicely.
If your piece is shaped like I think it is, I would look for piece of tube the right size and the length you want the flange, and cut a piece of flat to match. Then I would Tig weld around the edge.
316 will form, why muck about?
|Thread: Glass scale /DRO compatibility|
Machine DRO sell adapter cables
Machine DRO (Allendale Electronics) sold Sino DROs, if you ask them I'm sure they will be able to help.
|Thread: Workshop insulation|
My workshop was, until recently, a 5.2m x 3m Yard Master garage of plastic coated galvanised steel construction.
I devised a means to fix wood into the U shaped internal supporting members of the walls, filled the spaces with insulating sheets cut to fit and boarded out the interior walls with 18mm OSB. The roof was insulated with 25mm Celotex.
The workshop stayed above 10C in all weathers in Yorkshire with just a desktop PC running and I never had any issues with condensation.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 with 'Big Bore Conversion'|
Posted by Mike Poole on 06/04/2020 23:03:41
I doubt it would be practical to build a big bore headstock from parts, it would be a long and expensive shopping list. It would make more sense to part exchange your current machine for a big bore I would think.
That's what Roy Milner did, with most of the parts being taken from the headstock being converted, no new gears or pulleys were used.
Posted by John Haine on 05/04/2020 14:08:49
why on earth they didn't just make it ER40 in the first place I don't know.
John Stevenson suggested a native ER40 headstock would be the best option for the Super 7, I think Myford were just making a point of ignoring him and common sense by finally employing the MT3 design which one of their employees had come up with in the 1960s or 1970s.
Perhaps the "New Myford" will go with ER40 sometime in the middle of this century!
Edited By Nick Hulme on 05/04/2020 14:23:42
Posted by Paul Smith 37 on 03/04/2020 23:10:21
NIck..Did you strip your headstock and have you any details and bearing numbers? Ive contacted Roy Milner and hes not making any more big bore headstocks.
So i may attempt it myself with a bit of help.
I haven't needed to strip it yet and it's used every day for production work at the moment, I currently have a rush of orders owing to people being at home with nothing to do but fit upgrade parts to their projects.
When I get around to stripping it I will put all the dimensions into CAD and I have an idea or two for improvement when I convert my spare head,
|Thread: New chinese lathe or old Myford lathe|
If you can find a reasonably priced one then a Myford S7 in good condition might serve you well, if you can live with the lamentable headstock through capacity. 25 years ago I paid £700 for a 1964 Super 7 which is still turning out precision work.
The problem is that for what people seem to think is a reasonable price for a second hand S7 you can now usually buy something just as good and newer from a reputable UK based supplier.
|Thread: Annealing stainless steel|
Stainless has nothing to do with this sad story.
The cheerful purchase of Mystery Metal because it is seen as cheap is the story here.
If you buy known materials you can look up heat treatment and cutting speeds, this saves you looking like the chump who has bought Scrapbinium cheaply and now cannot do anything with it.
|Thread: Indexable Carbide Turning tools|
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 14/03/2020 17:38:50
The ideal depth of cut is about 0.6 times the tip radius.
If you are the sort of person who likes to make shallow finishing cuts I suggest CCGT inserts with a small tip radius.
How does that jibe with a single step 30mm to 25mm reduction in 303 on my S7?
|Thread: Amadeal Lathe failed - customer service appalling!|
Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 09/03/2020 14:28:53
Regardless of any T&C's or guarantee, an item sold in the UK must be fit for purpose and suitable quality. Limiting the guarantee on elecrical components to 6 month's is unreasonable. most electronic components do not wear out and should last much longer than a year.
An accurate but pointless argument as there will always be unscrupulous sellers taking advantage of the culpably unwise people seeking unreasonably cheap products by sourcing cheaply and supporting inadequately, the fact that the customer has recourse in law will not change the fact that their money spends significant time invested in scrap as a direct result of them being cheap in the first place.
Why do so many people act all surprised when, having scraped the bottom of the barrel and found one of the cheapest box-shipping options to buy, they get cheaply assembled products and less than stellar service?
|Thread: Toolpost question|
I looked at Multi-Fix and found that almost none of the angles I wanted to set tools at were catered for by the 9 degree increments.
|Thread: Bore Measuring Gauge|
That kind of Metrology is available to rent.
|Thread: Mag Base|
Were "Keepers" as provided by magnet manufacturers in the past to "Keep" the field localised or to "Keep" the magnet's strength? :D
|Thread: Best Cutter for HDPE.|
YG Alu Power are good in plastics.
|Thread: Holding block for ISO 30 shank|
How complex is the turning you want to achieve?
I've done some turning in the mill with turning tools held in a milling vice.
|Thread: metric thread on my imperial lathe|
Posted by not done it yet on 25/04/2017 16:54:42
Whatever you do, do not open the lead-screw half-nuts under any circumstances between passes.
While good advice for a beginner, that is not entirely true. There are several vids on utoob which clearly demonstrate that the half buts can be opened - but must be closed again before reversing beyond the end of the cut.
Unnecessary for braked lathes or where plenty of undercut is available after the thread, but useful for instances where things are 'limited' in some way.
Cut away from the shoulder and outwards from the bottom of a bore and these issues are non-issues.
From personal experience, and not from watching YouTube videos, it's easier not to open the half nuts when cutting Metric threads on an Imperial lathe