Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Wheeler 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Suggestions for lathe-only projects?|
A few T-nuts can be made easily and quickly with a hacksaw and file. If you want more than that, then turn as many top-hats as you need and file on the flats for the bigger slot.
|Thread: Non-renewable energy|
Hydro isn't ignored. But you can't just plonk a water wheel across a brook and call it a power station. I suspect that all of the potential sites for hydro-electric plants in the UK already have them.
As the numbers show, none of the lauded renewable sources are replacements for steam turbine power stations. But inelligent use of them would make significant reductions in their emissions. Unfortunately, intelligent long term integrated policies are not things our governments are any good at
|Thread: Whats the correct size clamp kit for the mini mill?|
I bought mine from Cronos about 15 years ago.
It uses T-nuts that fit the slots well at 11 and 17.5mm wide, with M10 hardware.
The hardware and clamps are much bigger than most jobs need, and get in the way.
Every time I use them, I tell myself it's past time that I made some new nuts and clamps using M6 threads, like in Harold Hall's articles/book.
I notice that Arceuro do smaller step blocks that would be more suitable for this size clamps.
|Thread: Suggestions for lathe-only projects?|
More importantly, most of them are sized to specific jobs - pin punches, filing buttons, hole punches etc - and are probably best made when you need them. Make one of each so you know how and move on. Otherwise, you burn through material and end up with lots tools that never get used. Like the machinist jacks I made when I first got the mill 15 years ago. I've never used them, and have recently converted one into a tool height gauge when my digital one died.
My suggestion would be to look around the house/car/bike/garden and see what you can improve or repair. Handles and knobs are a good bet; you could quickly develop your own house style.
Edited By Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 25/11/2020 23:01:20
|Thread: School Workshop|
Does it really matter? Designing and building their own stuff is what matters. Doing it with modern materials and techniques is also important.
|Thread: What am I?|
Rolls was the 'financial partner', although Henry Royce was already a successful, wealthy businessman.
The traditional definition of mechanic was someone who builds, maintains and repairs machinery, which is a better description of what many model-engineers do. Engineer added 'designs' to that list and usually implied some sort of qualification.
The problem is that meanings in English creep, and so we end up with words being applied willy-nilly and all useful definition is lost. Calling the man who empties a septic tank a 'Sanitation Engineer' is a good example.
|Thread: Lathe Tools Carbide Tip - which ones ?|
Smaller, cheaper, fits the machine and likely work better, and is still capable of taking 4mm deep cuts in steel.
I do a lot of turning with a homemade tangential tool that uses 3mm square HSS....
I use 8mm tooling on my WM250, and can't imagine why you would want to buy 12?
|Thread: Ball ended handle - how to|
I don't see the visual appeal of ball handles, and having read descriptions of the work involved certainly won't be making any.
I have made a couple of handles like Andrew showed, which match the ones on my modern machines, and only take a few minutes turning for the base, and none for the handle which is simply a piece of stock rod loctited in place.
If building a machine that needed a lot of handles I'd buy THESE or something similar
|Thread: Spares stock...|
Spares for the machines I bought new, and use occasionally for hobby work? None.
Both my work and storage space is limited, and I do have lots of tools.
That storage space is used for useful consumables: a range of fastener types/sizes for my work(M4/5/6/8&10), extra cutting tips/blanks, tap&dies, and a small quantity of metal stock in sizes that might cover unplanned jobs - turning down a common, larger size down for a single small part saves having lots of different sizes, Planned jobs I buy whatever is needed plus a bit extra if it has previously proved to be a useful size.
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
Nissan trained their warranty agents how to recover a faulty or accident damaged Leaf within a year of launching the car. That included how to ensure that the batteries were disconnected and safe.
|Thread: Myford ML7 faster speed|
Those bearings do have a constant flow of (hopefully) pressurised oil.
|Thread: Strange Word...|
It's better mow!
|Thread: Could a Car A/C pump be converted into a compressor|
They're only intended to run for a few seconds at a time to adjust ride height. And once the suspension is pumped up, very little air is needed to do that. Car air suspension systems use very similar pumps, and they all fail very quickly if a leaking air spring isn't repaired ASAP.
One might work if you want a quick, cheap and quiet blow gun for a machine - I have an Omega one to try - but they won't run air tools.
|Thread: Cosworth V8 1:12 scale|
When I read you started with 1" square bar, I thought you were crazy.
I've just pulled a bit out of my stash, and now I know you're crazy
It already looks cool. Are you going to fold a monocoque out of foil to mount it in??
I agree with you on the tooling, but you would only need to make a few M6 T-nuts to fit the new slots.
I have an X2 Mini mill, and bought the clamp set that fits it; it's too big really, and I'm seriously considering making a more useful, smaller set using M6 fasteners rather than the massive M10.
|Thread: Which ball turner?|
I was going to do that, but even the generic 50mm boring head takes up a huge amount of space
I bought the Hemingway kit just after getting the mill, and made a mess of everything I did.
This repurposed the shaft and shaft holder, plus a couple of other bits including the tool:
The head and slide are from 60mm bar, the slot is 10mm wide. Shaft rotates on cheap bearings, and is screwed and loctited to the head.
It's only ever likely to be used for decorative balls(gear knobs, handles etc) so I saw no need to complicate it with an adjuster mechanism
|Thread: Parcelforce or DPD|
The only time I've not had to collect a package from Parcelfarce in over 10 years was because I was standing by the door when their driver quietly slipped the We can't be bothered to deliver the parcel you've paid us to, so you need to collect it from the 'delivery centre' before we lose, break or steal it. But we no longer allow you to collect it on the same date on this card(they NEVER put a time on the card, and rarely bother with the date), we need at least 24 hours to get it back to the centre a mile away card through the letterbox. He had the right hump when I made him get the delivery out of the van and bring it to the doorstep without any help - it was the middle box for my toolchest.
Parcelfarce should stop pretending to deliver stuff, and just send the cards out with the postman, who does ring the bell and wait for someone to come to the door.
So Ketan, when I next order something from you, presumably you'll be paying me the the Parcel delivery fee?
|Thread: Bending small copper tube|
I bought one many years ago(although not from Toolzone) for bending brake pipes. It was so bad that after making one bend, I went back to bending them around a gate hinge. If you want to make accurate bends, or bends really near the ends of your pipes then making one of the properly designs engineered to do that will be necessary
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