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Member postings for Nicholas Wheeler 1

Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Wheeler 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Vice
22/10/2021 11:08:12
Posted by Mark Rand on 22/10/2021 10:05:28:

Noah Webster ought to be suffering many torments for the butchery he did to our wonderful, mongrel, language.

It's no worse better than what the newly educated 'grammarians' did 100 years earlier

Thread: My new favourite threads
16/10/2021 12:29:38
Posted by noel shelley on 16/10/2021 12:04:48:

10mm x 1mm is a thread often found on electrical fittings, bulb holders Etc. Noel.

And brake pipes.

Thread: Valve seat cutters?
14/10/2021 18:04:58
Posted by Andrew Tinsley on 14/10/2021 13:57:44:

Hello Chris,

I am firmly convinced that SP cutters have legs.

I suspect that your cutters eloped with my SP flaring set, and are now knocking out tapered cutters.....

Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide
13/10/2021 22:45:56
Posted by William Harvey 1 on 13/10/2021 19:13:03:
Posted by Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 13/10/2021 18:55:54:

So spend a few pence on allen head bolts, and file new T-nuts out of some stock.

Of course, that’s what I’ll do, but why would Soba supply bolts that don’t fit?

I am happy with measuring the Allen Bolts, but I have no idea how to measure and get the correct T nuts?

Have you considered turning the vice through 90° and putting the bolts through the slots provided on the outside edges?

I would measure the end of the T-slots. Probably with a rule, as the nuts don't need to be a machined sliding fit. Hacksaw and file job.

13/10/2021 18:55:54

So spend a few pence on allen head bolts, and file new T-nuts out of some stock.

Thread: Rear Axle Breather Connector
12/10/2021 17:50:55
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 12/10/2021 15:49:49

Did you make it from an M8 bolt though? Jason pointed out the difficulty of finding an 8mm bolt with a 7mm shank, and Nicholas suggested roughly taking the diameter down to 7mm. But I think Nicholas' mod wouldn't work because 1.25 pitch cuts deeper into the metal than 7mm, making it necessary to get rid of too much metal for the remains to be a good fit to the rubber pipe.

If you start with a bolt, and not a set screw, the unthreaded shank will be a similar diameter to the threads. Which leaves enough material to reduce to 7mm by whatever method is easiest for you and your equipment. It does require being able to drill the through hole reasonably concentric.

I would make the whole part from a length of 8mm rod, because it's exactly the sort of part I bought my first lathe for.

11/10/2021 08:39:57
Posted by JasonB on 11/10/2021 07:12:03:

Hard to find M8 bolts with a 7mm shank thoughwink

It's a connector for a rubber hose so doesn't need to be precise or even a particularly good finish; drill the bolt then hold it in a drill chuck and take the surface down with some coarse emery.

Thread: gr 8.8 ht bolt steel which carbide tip
05/10/2021 20:34:14

I think the problem with turning down bolts is the the thread, not the material. Once you get past that, there's no problem. So a deep cut that takes off most, if not all, of the thread is the way to go.

Thread: Chain Protection Sleeve
05/10/2021 17:12:31

How about something like THIS?

Thread: cutting spur gears on a mill
02/10/2021 12:03:22

Have you considered that Andrew has thought about the parts his hobby requires and equipped his workshop appropriately?

Thread: What Material for this Application Please?
01/10/2021 08:41:34

Does it have to remain flat, or can you roll some ribs into it?

A flange on the unsupported edge would be a good idea.

Using both of those would reduce the need for a thick sheet.

Would a galvinised finish be suitable?

Thread: cutting spur gears on a mill
30/09/2021 20:15:02

But you haven't really acheived any of that:

Your gears are largely unpredictable in tooth count and form, both of which are essential if they are for any of the traditional purposes including your examples

Your hacked together cutter isn't much easier to make than an accurate hob

Much the same applies to holding the blank.

Some sort of dividing apparatus is essential for many workshop jobs, not just gearcutting

Small equipment and conservative speeds/feeds are the cause for much of the time taken, not the methods. I see the same with screwcutting; when I mentioned that I cut several M14x1 threads starting at 100rpm and was running at about 150 for the last one it was implied that I must have superhuman reflexes.

There have been plenty of demonstrations of homemade cutters that give predictable and usable results for little effort - a tool to make a tool for three parts only needs to be barely good enough, not polished to a finish suitable for chrome plating.

What you are doing is the same work prototype work that led to the established and published methods that have been in amateur and professional use for centuries.

30/09/2021 19:00:21

Brian's quick and simplified method seems to take a lot more time and effort for lousy results than spending a few minutes working out what is needed using the traditional maths and straightforward equipment. Or have I missed something in all the noise?

Thread: Old rule divisions twelfs etc
30/09/2021 18:55:40

Michael, your 'clear' image is about 5" across on this device, and is therefore utterly useless as a defence of a scale that doesn't work in real life.

And Imperial measurements have enough stupid divisions without some idiot enthusing about 1/127s !

Thread: I need to cut chamfers into x64 pieces of mild steel - any advice?
27/09/2021 12:57:40

Being ruthless can also mean scrapping existing parts or work because a redesign can make them better/easier/quicker/cheaper. That's one of the reasons why rough and ready prototyping as soon as possible is the modern design approach

Thread: Machining Cylinder Head Chamber Roof - DIY or Shop Tool
26/09/2021 21:34:44

My intention for a similar but smaller(my exhaust valves are 23mm) is for the end of the tool where the pilot is inserted to be about 5mm from the valve guide. That way, I'll be able to use a simple stop(probably a nylon collar) between them to keep the finished heights the same.

I'll be using 20mm bar for mine, and the whole tool, less the pilot, will be about 50mm long. I'll turn the chuck end first, insert it into a collet and then do the working end and pilot bore. I have a toolpost spindle, so will bore the tool hole before removing the part from the lathe. The only dimension that actually matters is the diameter of the pilot bore, and that it is concentric to the chucking diameter.

Vizard suggests roughing out the tool radius and then finish grinding(lapping is more like it) it on a suitably sized rod covered in grinding paste. That seems simple enough to do, although it won't be particularly quick. I have a couple of pieces of 4mm round carbide, so that will probably be what I use.

I might add another cross hole for  tommy bar.

Edited By Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 26/09/2021 21:36:42

Thread: Aluminium Oxide Mount Point Grinding Tools
26/09/2021 12:27:39

I hope you have a powerful compressor with a big tank if you expect to port a head with an air die grinder.

And earplugs. And some nice thermal gloves.

Thread: Back to Imperial
22/09/2021 12:56:22
Posted by Anthony Knights on 22/09/2021 12:31:57:

At one time, measured pumps were introduced to serve beer into oversize glasses. ( exactly 1/2 pint at a time ) These proved to be unpopular with the licensees, as they couldn't make anything on the head. These days, at least around here, it's either hand pumps or free-flow into pint glasses. That way you get between one and two fluid ounces short of a pint and the pub makes more money. Probably doesn't apply down South where they like beer without a head.

Measured pumps are reliant on the rest of the system being up to scratch. As soon as the cellar/barrel/delivery line temperature changes, or the pipe cleaning is a day late, or the button isn't cleaned with the correct chemical, or the clouds across the moon are too thick, the measured quantity changes. So you end up with a row of glasses with varying quantities that you hope the customer will accept being poured into their glass. Wastage goes up through the roof, profit drops through the floor and the scrap pile gains another heap of expensive junk.

Here in the south, I won't accept a southern beer that's been forced through a sparkler to create a head that isn't appropriate. A northern beer also shouldn't need the sparkler to create a head; it should be a natural part of pouring the pint.

Thread: Not enoughh CO2 ?
22/09/2021 12:10:33
Posted by mgnbuk on 22/09/2021 11:38:35:

I see non-one condemns the CO2 produced in brewing alcohol.

I don't know if it is a general practice in the brewing sector, but on an episode of the "Inside the factory" TV program than covered production of cider that company recovered the CO2 released during fermentation & used it to carbonate the finished product when it was canned.

When I dealt with Whitbread thirty years ago, the suggestion was that brewers have more CO2 than they know what to do with. We certainly got our cylinders for the dispensers for nothing.

Thread: Solar Panel Slew bearing, van hub?
21/09/2021 21:12:28
Posted by Maurice Taylor on 21/09/2021 20:50:24:

Hi, this unit contains the bearing .If you mount the side with 4 bolts to the static side of your pole and the side with 5 wheel studs to the panel side, Your panel will turn on the bearing.

This type of bearing is used on other 4x4 as well ,so should be very cheap at breakers yard.

That type of bearing is used on cars like Focus and Astras, where new ones are <£30

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