Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Wheeler 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Homemade cutting fluid|
That's the angel's share
|Thread: Generating force to cap beer bottle|
Mine was about £8 with 100 caps. Takes a couple of seconds per bottle and barely any effort.
|Thread: Are there any published Torque settings for BA|
My experience is that anyone who hasn't frequently used a torque wrench on small bolts(say M8 or less) is massively overtightening them!
|Thread: Synthetic and enamel paint explained|
I agree with Charles, in that 2k is much more forgiving to paint than cellulose. It needs fewer coats(2 gives a good finish) which reduces the chances of screw-ups, it uses much less solvent which further reduces screw-ups, you need less paint so the small increase in cost per litre over cellulose is actually a gain, and the gun finish is better, longer lasting, more durable and not affected by common chemicals like brake fluid or fuel. Then there's the time taken; a fast acitvator on a warm day will have the second coat ready to unmask by the time you've cleaned the gun, tidied up and made a coffee. This is even more true of 2k high build filler, which is fabulous stuff; two coats applied over metal and filler with a roller can be flatted within a couple of hours. You can go from bare metal to finished colour the same day!
It's good on engine blocks, cylinder heads, brake calipers and just about any surface in the workshop you might want to paint. Last week I brush painted with 2k the windmill weathervane my Dad made from hardwood scraps - the base made from mahogany windowboard doesn't show any grain, even with no primer.
You do need to be a bit more careful with PPE, but anyone who sprays cellulose without overalls and a decent filter mask is an idiot. My air fed mask cost £100, but it does make compressor selection more critical.
|Thread: Warco WM250 I have killed it|
Mine(bought in 2015) has quickblow fuses in both locations, and I have blown both simultaneously. As the machine sits very close to a wall, I only found the rear fuse after moving the lathe to start dismantling.....
Put the book away, and use the lathe to turn metal bars into smaller ones.
Then look at some of the parts your existing projects need. That will decide what you need to acquire to make them.
Some of the stuff in Sparey's book can now be bought cheaply, and the effort better spent on using them.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2020|
A loose tailstock on my WM250 meant I finally had to do something about it.
So I removed and dismantled it, scraped the paint and a couple of burrs out of the joints, loctited the barrel-screw bush back in the correct place, reassembled and adjusted. Now it locks in place/releases with about a 10° movement of the lever, drills on centre(which it did before) and ejects the tooling correctly fixing a problem that's been getting worse.
While I was at it, I made a small knob for the topslide lock and a captive lever for the carriage lock. Now they're usable without tools, so will get used a lot more.
Then, using an aircraft bolt, I made new studs for the change gears that screw into the T-nuts properly(one of the originals was almost stripped), and allow the gears to float rather than undoing the stud in the middle of a job. This has also stopped the gears rubbing together and making an awful howling noise. I'm now thinking of making new linking bushes, as the current ones are a bit crumbly on their edges.
A bit of cleaning and lubricating, and it ought to be good for another five years of use.
|Thread: What are you reading?|
Neal Stephenson's Baroque Cycle(it's a trilogy), and Cryptonomicon will keep you going for ages! Lots of detail about all sorts of things you've never considered is a large part of his style.
|Thread: I'm making D reamers on a ML8 please help me get a proper lathe!|
|Thread: Wonky tables|
As my right leg is 20mm shorter than the left, I wobble before entering the pub......
|Thread: What sort of things DO NOT inspire you|
So you only use a treadle lathe and hand drills? Consider bandsaws and milling machines unnecessary?
Tools exist purely to make work easier, so while I often cut off one piece with a hacksaw multiple parts get done with a cutting disc in the angle grinder. Looking at a tool you already have and realising it will do another job on your list is an essential e
I don't like spending hours 'perfecting' a tool for a one-off job that will take 30 seconds.....
My 'quick and dirty' hub extractor, which was welded together on the car out of four pieces of scrap, not only did both of my wheel bearings(normally about £200 per side) but has made a profit on several jobs that I've done for other people. I did knock off the sharp edges with an angle grinder before I used it for the second time.....
|Thread: Cable Gland|
I can see why you don't like the cable going through a bare hole, although if everything is properly secured it probably won't matter. Rerouting the cable across or around the angle iron would look even more like a bodge. A screwed gland is massive overkill even if you already had a suitable part. Grommets are used to good effect in much thinner sheetmetal, and will work here. Or you could glue/cabletie a short piece of thick hose(6mm fuel hose would be a good start) over the cable where it passes through the hole.
|Thread: What would I use a Plasma Cutter For|
If you do a lot of sheetmetal work, and already have the compressor to supply air, then a plasma cutter is a big time and effort saver: a few seconds with one will remove an entire sill from a car for example. It won't replace a hacksaw(manual or powered) or small bandsaw for cutting steel bar for machining.
|Thread: Tool post for Myford ML10 lathe|
It's interesting you should say that, as I think the Dickson clone QCTP is the best value for money I've spent on the lathe and mill combined. So much so, that I kept it for the bigger machine that replaced the mini-lathe I bought it for.
The most important thing for a QCTP is to have enough holders to keep ALL of the tools you might use ready to drop onto it; when even a simple part uses 3 tools(turn and face, break edges, part off) it very quickly pays for itself.
How is inefficient use of time less important for a hobbiest than in production, as the hobby(whatever the tools are used for) is making parts not pretty piles of swarf?
I have to keep several of them(well, 150mm rules), as they disappear when not in my hand. I don't have this problem with ANY other tool; can anyone explain this?
|Thread: Metric V Imperial Measurement|
Yes, and no in that order. And it's for the same reason you and he were the other way round, it's what we are all used to. The human brain isn't programmed to work in any of the entirely arbitrary units in use, but is trained to use whatever is favoured in that situation.
As for reverting to Imperial, what would be the point? Even America uses metric, they just fudge it by overlaying older units for everyday use.
|Thread: Home made T&C jig|
I'm about half way through building HH's basic grinding rest, and will be using an ER32 spindle in his fixture. That's because I already have it and the collets, so will save a huge amount of time and material making more parts that will do the same job.
I don't expect to use the thing much, and how will grinding dust affect the collets when they're fixed in the chuck?
ER collets are cheap to buy, and consumable parts any way.
|Thread: Why does everyone disagree with you|
If he had spent a little time editing his post to make it easier to read, that wouldn't have happened. It read like a pub rant where the unknown ranter couldn't remember to breathe; would anyone actually consider that to be worthwhile advice.
Tone of forum posts is very difficult to get right.
Which is, I think, the OP's point!
Edited By Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 27/01/2020 11:25:23
|Thread: Strange (to me) chuck jaw design.|
The second key I made for the four jaw chuck feels so wrong without a spring, I'm tempted to fit one.......
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