Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Wheeler 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Any interesting lathe projects for beginners?|
It's just making an internal sharp bit!
Seriously, that would be a good reason to make one(two, three -however may it takes to get a satisfactory part), and you'll use it most times you turn on the lathe. First thing I made for and on mine.
Why not have a look around the house?
New handles and knobs for missing/broken ones on furniture are a good start, either to match existing or replace them all. Not long after I got a lathe I made a new handle from aluminium bar to replace the broken plastic one on the chest freezer; it had been broken for years so won me some brownie points. I'm currently fixing a damaged waiter's friend for my sister; it's not worth doing, but it's part of a set that was a present. Bazyle is right about the G-cramps, we have lots that were thrown out because the pads were missing, it only takes a few minutes to return a £30 Record clamp back to use. And because it is already well-used I have no qualms about putting it to rough use.
My 80 year old Dad still opens letters with the opener he made at school, and they make tea with the caddy spoon I did.
Making parts that don't matter is a good way of improving skills and learning what the tools can actually do.
Edited By Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 17/09/2019 11:00:16
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
A stout leather belt and doubled up sandpaper is another way.
|Thread: How to upset the neighbours!|
Perhaps you would prefer this:
3.0l V6 and manual gearbox from a Vauxhall Omega.
|Thread: Tool post project|
I think you've gone backwards: that's added a lot of extra machining to each toolholder - you need a lot of them, so that's important - that doesn't justify its existence. That's why I like John Stevenson's suggestion to reverse the dovetails on a more traditional style post, and put the male dovetail on the holders.
The main reason for using a QCTP is to quickly swap lathe tools. Even a simple part could need 3 tool changes(face and turning, chamfer, parting tool). Height adjustment is just a natural part of the drop in design of most of them. The OP's design doesn't have that, so the tools will need shimming the first time they are fitted. This will be much easier to do than trying to machine each holder to suitable dimensions.
The thing that makes them quick change is having enough tool holders handy, so that once a tool is set up, you don't need to take it out of the holder. I have 13 for my Dickson copy so far, and buy a couple more each time I buy anything from the various suppliers.
If the post needs to lift to change each holder, why not replace the mounting post from a nut to a cam operated lever like a bike axle?
|Thread: Mini mill or handtools for this job (rectangle with slots)|
They're fairly simple to make, but on such a small mill will take ages compared to the cost of buying them. Time better spent on actually using them.
|Thread: Help milling an angle|
Interesting that you think 3mm sheet is 'thin'
I reckon you're going to struggle bending it with the design you're building, which does work well on the 0.8mm I use for most car bodywork repairs. Your vice won't 3mm either!
|Thread: How useful is a 2inch machinist jack on my Sherline?|
I made a pair when I bought the mini-mill because they looked useful. They never have been.
You're over thinking this. Buy some material, and make some of it smaller and round. That will teach you what you need to know, and what you ought to make/buy.
|Thread: Things I should know cutting various materials on lathe|
You'll find it a lot more efficient to buy a few pieces of the material you're likely to use and just try them on your machine, with your cutting tools. Brass, steel, aluminium and whatever plastic you have in mind of about 25mm diameter won't cost you much. And once you've made a few cuts you'll be able to make something, rather than just worrying about it.
|Thread: M4 x 0.75mm pitch CSk machine screws|
Is anyone really going to screwcut such a thread when they can buy taps and die?. Anyone who gets work done, that is.
|Thread: Home built trailer|
It's not a guarantee, but it does mean that the trailer(car, van whatever) has been inspected by a disinterested party and so have any necessary repairs once they've been made. This is one of many reasons why the MOT exemptions for classic cars is a terrible idea, although not as terrible as some of the repairs that owners do only when forced to. Having such a test would also force some of the maintenance that many trailers have never had - I recovered several that wouldn't have caused their crashes if simple jobs like greasing the wheel bearings or replacing time expired tyres had been carried out. Expensive caravans or car carriers aren't immune to that either.
|Thread: Flat bottom hole 3/16 o/d|
I normally use a milling cutter for flat bottom holes, but none of my 3/16 cutters are any where near long enough for a 1" deep hole
|Thread: Cleaning a new lathe before using...|
I wiped mine down with paraffin and some rags, plugged it in and started to use it. That was 5 years ago. Stripping a new machine just because is an odd thing to do.
|Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?|
I didn't do a lot to my mini-lathe, but bluing the sliding surfaces and gently removing the high spots made a huge improvement. Pinning the gibs and aligning the lead screws is a good idea and takes no time.
the bearing mods for the screws are worthwhile.
A cam lock for the tailstock is necessary if the lathe is old enough not to have it already
|Thread: Deburring small items after parting off|
|Thread: Surplus subjects learnt at school.|
I don't think that any O-level(whatever they are now) subject is surplus, because they're still at the basic principle stage. So a useful education requires a range of subjects:
Humanities are about looking at data and expressing conclusions clearly and concisely - the actual subject is unimportant.
Languages develop skills in doing that. No school can teach a foreign language the way you learnt your native one, so it's done in a structured way of introducing vocabulary and grammar.
Sciences are about how the world works.
Maths. Arithmetic is a day to day thing, and everybody should have a grounding in how numbers are used to bamboozle them.
Practical subjects - these teach how to use tools to solve problems. Once you've learnt that(wood/metal/needle/etc- work) you'll be able to try anything
Sports. Should be about learning what you can do, both as an individual and as a team. Probably the worst taught subject.
Yes, that's all ideallistic but you've got to start somewhere.
Heinlein summed it up: Specialisation is for insects.
|Thread: Finally sort of know which lathe to buy, but?|
Don't get too hung up on all the accessories, as the work you do will define what is necessary. It's probably better to ensure you have essentials(and they'll vary a bit) then buy others if you need them. For instance, I bought my first lathe 17 years ago but I've never used a faceplate or travelling steady, even though I bought them for the mini-lathe and the replacement came with them. Nor have I turned between centres, so the drive dog I bought a long time ago just sits in the box.
3 and 4 jaw chucks, tailstock drill chuck, cutting tools and a revolving centre is a good list to start with. I wouldn't want to do without a QCTP and enough holders for long.
|Thread: Plan/Design for spanner roll?|
Tapered, no. You can save a bit of space by doubling up the smaller tools.
Yes to everything else, but the dimensions depend on your spanners. Or whatever else you might put in it.
Secure it with either sewn on cords or velcro if you're not going to use it very much.
If you're going to make a roll, it needs to fit your spanners perfectly. So someone else's pattern isn't much of a short cut. Laying out your spanners on some cloth and developing your own pattern won't take more than a couple of minutes.
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