Here is a list of all the postings Rainbows has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: SMALL LATHE|
Adepts and Wizards are cute but rare, not that practical and only found in England. If you need a very small lathe -
You could try TAIG lathes (https://taigtools.com/product-category/micro-lathes/micro-lathe-ii/micro-lathe-ii-machines/)
Or the well made but expensive Cowells lathes (http://www.cowells.com/90me.htm)
Not sure how easy it is to import them to Turkey though.
|Thread: Build a Pallet Beehive|
I don't think I've heard of beekeepers deliberately going out their way to destroy wild bees but domesticated honey bees and wild bumble bees are in direct competition. Depending on the situation a commercial honey bee business can be pretty awful for the surrounding insect environment.
|Thread: Milling machine identification - "Deutsche Waffen Und Munitionsfabriken"|
Hope we all love a bit of mystery machine identification. Found this at auction with no context other than an accompanying Lorch lathe. Googling the maker the nameplate would be better suited sitting on a machinegun rather than a mill. I assume they bought it off the maker, slapped their name on it only for it to then be stolen by an englishman circa 1918.
I seem to remember seeing a lathes article about a mill with the same unique slot on the front of the spindle but going through again I can't find it.
edit: more pictures in album, it has an odd mechanism that shifts the pulley back and forth linked to the table feed trip switch
Edited By Rainbows on 30/07/2021 18:16:13
|Thread: Centec2 knee adjustment|
The jack I had thought about using was this:
Some measuring showed that it would be just small enough to fit under the knee (vertically speaking) while still giving the full travel. A TR14x4 leadscrew feels like its on the slender side but but the load rating says it could lift the entire mill. For £40 it would as cheap as some second hand jacks. For £100? eh well maybe then homemade is the path to go. Yet to ask for a quote. Unfortunately the 4mm pitch doesn't match up with any mass produced machines so I can't buy a standard spare leadscrew dial to use on my machine so maybe a DRO is the way.
I was thinking that having an off centre leadscrew would be bad for the machine, but then again all our lathes work that way, so maybe I was overestimating that problem and getting stuck in a mental rut.
Something I've seen is stick a big worm wheel on the pinion axle and bolt a mount for a worm gear somewhere on the side. I've been keeping an eye out for scrap rotary tables to steal the gears out of but have yet to stumble across one. Essentially the same idea the Centec company had for the 2A
Optimistic listing there, sure I could buy an entire respectable second hand milling machine for that money but why do that when I can buy a milling head? I still have a milling spindle I bought from china for an eventual vertical conversion, it cost me all of £100 and some change.
Going to resurrect this thread for a basically identical issue - except the knee casting of my Centec 2 has extra iron between the two webs seen on Sean's machine. Good for rigidity, bad for having a clear space to stick a leadscrew and gearbox and handle and so on in. I'm missing the original handle but otherwise the rack and pinion still functions.
Thinking about working within the limits of the existing set up I don't like that 1) the stop screws aren't graduated 2) if you have to move the knee further than the travel of the screw you have to move the entire stop, thus losing your measurement, 3) if you let go of the lever and the position stop / gib lock isn't tight then the knee will fall down
1) -> replace the screws with micrometer barrels, though I do wonder about the durability of them. Doing repeat cutting passes would get boring fast with no way to switch between precise adjustment and rapid approximate cuts as on a leadscrew dial.
2) -> replace the screws with extra long micrometer barrels? This one I haven't properly worked out yet.
3) -> A mystery to fix. Counterbalancing the knee with a gas spring would help. A switch attached to the handle which actuates a form of lock/clamp would be nice but I can't yet think of a mechanism
If anyone has ideas or has solved this on their own Centec then I'd like to hear them.
Also if anyone has a centec handle for sale I'd be interested, trying to work out that taper and cut a square hole is possible but maybe a bit tedious.
|Thread: BOMBSHELL!! ...at last!|
Shame I can't see anyone selling just the headstock and tailstock riser. Looks like it would otherwise be possible to retrofit it onto bog standard minilathes
|Thread: Can anyone identify this tool please|
Place long needle in the grip, place tool in tool post. Aim the needle tip into a centre punch or centre drill mark in the workpiece and use that to centre it in your 4 jaw chuck by seeing how much the needle wobbles.
Not sure of the name but I do remember seeing someone use a tool like this that way.
|Thread: Anyone know what is the protective plastic film on brass sheet made of?|
Title is the question really
Bought some brass sheet that comes with a translucent greeny-blue adhesive film for protecting the finish from scratches.
My thought is can I laser cut the film I can then use that as a stencil for acid etching text or symbols. However if it turns out to be vinyl the laser cutter is going to get wrecked by chlorine gas.
If it does turn out to be vinyl then I have some PP adhesive film as a backup but it would be convenient.
|Thread: Axminster SU1 Horizontal Mill|
I'm curious what people would think of its big brother, the U2
|Thread: Cast iron cabinet theft|
First time I've ever kept something outside on account of someone having parked and blocked the garage door, I thought ah it will probably be able to last 12 hours until the path is clear - but here we go.Will see if I can search it outi n the scrappies
This got nabbed from the front yard, hiding it in a bush evidently wasnt as great a protection as expected. If anyone sees it in a scrap yard or getting sold as industrial furniture on ebay please give me a message. Imagine it would be the Sheffield area.
Also beyond reporting theft to the police any other ideas on ideal retrieval methods?
|Thread: Good practice for lathe circuit design|
My Wilfin lathe currently has a wiring circuit of
Plug -> Fused switch box -> Motor
While it does work and I could take test cuts I'd rather not have this be the long term wiring plan.
New one, as far as I can think would be
Plug -> Isolator -> NVR switch w/ E stop -> Motor
But also I want in the future to add lighting (240V AC), tachometer (??) , pedal E stop (not sure where it wires in), electronic leadscrew (12V DC? 24-48V DC??), DRO (230V AC), VFD (230V AC), maybe some more stuff.
Ideally I want all electronics stuck in the cast iron cabinet under the headstock of the lathe.
So my questions are
Is my Isolator -> NVR switch w/ E stop enough safety for the immediate task of just controlling the motor?
Also I don't want to have to rip everything out to rewire each time I add a component. I can wire a plug but 7+ circuits in a small space is not something I'm used to making or making look neat. Does anyone have tips on how to make things modular and keep wiring organised?
Also is there a chance that electrical noise from the VFD would affect the electronics in the tachometer or DRO?
Also also (last one now) should an E stop cut power to all parts of the lathe or only cut power to the spindle motor?
|Thread: Slotter identification|
It seems like facebook avoids a lot of the price inflation of ebay, maybe not taking 15% commision helps among other things. But yeah made a lot of recent purchases from it including this one
Having finished restoring the Wilfin for now I set my sights on new piles or rust to attack with wire wool and am about to en up with a pallet including a horizontal mill and a slotter. The mill looks generic but I haven't seen the slotter before and a search of the usual lathes website doesn't bring anything up, possibly because its an accessory to another machine.
As a quick check does anyone recognise this machine? More photos to be had when it arrives.
|Thread: Iím done with big pharma‼️|
As Guy mentions many medications make things worse before they make things better as the body reacts to all the new chemicals in it, once the body adjusts the side effects lessen.
|Thread: Power cross feed: electric motor or linkage to spindle?|
Throwing in some newer pictures. To the mention of change wheels- one of the gears in the apron is stamped 72T and has been welded onto a hub and fixed to the shaft with a taper pin. Probably a farm repair, or maybe the Wilfin factory ran out of the right gear blank.
I do in fact have the shaft for the power feeds, though I managed to obscure it with the leadscrew in the first pic.
My mini lathe is currently in a half state of repair being mid way through a CNC conversion when I decided to restore the Wilfin. I do have a 3D printer though which would be useful for prototyping (taking bets on how long a PLA wormgear would last in actual use). No dividing head but I could maybe bungle something together on this lathe.
Checking out HLVs they have a 1/10HP (~75w) motor according to the internet (couldn't tell if AC or DC) which is beyond the majority of chinese worm motors on ebay but would be well within a drill motor.
I would trust Hardinge would spec a strong enough motor that the issues Bayzle mentioned wouldn't happen though I'd be interested in a first hand account if it maybe has issues on roughing cuts or the like.
While the leadscrew is fully working there aren't any change gears, so I have been wondering about trying an electronic leadscrew but that's for another day. Buying in metric ones is a neat idea though I'd never thought of that before.
Ok well that's a slightly clumsy title
Some of you may remember my lathe identification question
Against all sensibility that lathe got bought and mostly restored so far
However the apron is missing a few part: the worm screw that mounts on the power feed shaft and the assorted gears that transfer that power to either the rack and pinion or cross slide leadscrew.
Option 1: design and build a replacement for the missing gearing to the power feed shaft - the rarity of Wilfins means I can't expect to find someone to give me dimensions as per the original build
Option 2: Slap an electric motor somewhere in or on the saddle and belt it onto the existing gears
To me option 2 sounds much easier but at the same time its rare to see it outside of 1 or 2 modified mini lathes which makes me think there is a catch, A 21W, 60 RPM worm gear motor on ebay is only £15 so why wouldn't more lathes use that instead of all the cost of gear cutting?
|Thread: Knurling wheels (for the Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool)|
I might be misunderstanding the situation but will reversing one wheel in the holder cause the direction to flip and you will get your diamond?
|Thread: What coating/grease for long term tool storage|
I recently came into possesion of 4 off of some quite large Burnerd 4 jaw chucks as NOS. (fact of the day, the original packaging is a bunch of hay in what looks like a huge cake tin) I want to clean the current grease off of them, inspect for damage and then recoat them for longevity.
I'm vaguely aware of a particular oil/grease that is an industry standard for packing parts up. I remember my minilathe came covered in a coating which looked like dried oil- nice since it didnt cover the hands and anything else the lathe touched. Could anyone pass on the name for it?
|Thread: Electric Cars|
Nine out of ten journeys are just shuffling your own body to work and back, which EVs are perfectly suitable for in both range and capacity. Tesla is also making a pickup and E-vans are available which will probably start eating into cargo carrying. Imagine long distance driving will be the last niche that EVs don't eat up, or until faster and more frequent charging stations become common.
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