Here is a list of all the postings Rainbows has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Anyone know what is the protective plastic film on brass sheet made of?|
Title is the question really
Bought some brass sheet that comes with a translucent greeny-blue adhesive film for protecting the finish from scratches.
My thought is can I laser cut the film I can then use that as a stencil for acid etching text or symbols. However if it turns out to be vinyl the laser cutter is going to get wrecked by chlorine gas.
If it does turn out to be vinyl then I have some PP adhesive film as a backup but it would be convenient.
|Thread: Axminster SU1 Horizontal Mill|
I'm curious what people would think of its big brother, the U2
|Thread: Cast iron cabinet theft|
First time I've ever kept something outside on account of someone having parked and blocked the garage door, I thought ah it will probably be able to last 12 hours until the path is clear - but here we go.Will see if I can search it outi n the scrappies
This got nabbed from the front yard, hiding it in a bush evidently wasnt as great a protection as expected. If anyone sees it in a scrap yard or getting sold as industrial furniture on ebay please give me a message. Imagine it would be the Sheffield area.
Also beyond reporting theft to the police any other ideas on ideal retrieval methods?
|Thread: Good practice for lathe circuit design|
My Wilfin lathe currently has a wiring circuit of
Plug -> Fused switch box -> Motor
While it does work and I could take test cuts I'd rather not have this be the long term wiring plan.
New one, as far as I can think would be
Plug -> Isolator -> NVR switch w/ E stop -> Motor
But also I want in the future to add lighting (240V AC), tachometer (??) , pedal E stop (not sure where it wires in), electronic leadscrew (12V DC? 24-48V DC??), DRO (230V AC), VFD (230V AC), maybe some more stuff.
Ideally I want all electronics stuck in the cast iron cabinet under the headstock of the lathe.
So my questions are
Is my Isolator -> NVR switch w/ E stop enough safety for the immediate task of just controlling the motor?
Also I don't want to have to rip everything out to rewire each time I add a component. I can wire a plug but 7+ circuits in a small space is not something I'm used to making or making look neat. Does anyone have tips on how to make things modular and keep wiring organised?
Also is there a chance that electrical noise from the VFD would affect the electronics in the tachometer or DRO?
Also also (last one now) should an E stop cut power to all parts of the lathe or only cut power to the spindle motor?
|Thread: Slotter identification|
It seems like facebook avoids a lot of the price inflation of ebay, maybe not taking 15% commision helps among other things. But yeah made a lot of recent purchases from it including this one
Having finished restoring the Wilfin for now I set my sights on new piles or rust to attack with wire wool and am about to en up with a pallet including a horizontal mill and a slotter. The mill looks generic but I haven't seen the slotter before and a search of the usual lathes website doesn't bring anything up, possibly because its an accessory to another machine.
As a quick check does anyone recognise this machine? More photos to be had when it arrives.
|Thread: Iím done with big pharma‼️|
As Guy mentions many medications make things worse before they make things better as the body reacts to all the new chemicals in it, once the body adjusts the side effects lessen.
|Thread: Power cross feed: electric motor or linkage to spindle?|
Throwing in some newer pictures. To the mention of change wheels- one of the gears in the apron is stamped 72T and has been welded onto a hub and fixed to the shaft with a taper pin. Probably a farm repair, or maybe the Wilfin factory ran out of the right gear blank.
I do in fact have the shaft for the power feeds, though I managed to obscure it with the leadscrew in the first pic.
My mini lathe is currently in a half state of repair being mid way through a CNC conversion when I decided to restore the Wilfin. I do have a 3D printer though which would be useful for prototyping (taking bets on how long a PLA wormgear would last in actual use). No dividing head but I could maybe bungle something together on this lathe.
Checking out HLVs they have a 1/10HP (~75w) motor according to the internet (couldn't tell if AC or DC) which is beyond the majority of chinese worm motors on ebay but would be well within a drill motor.
I would trust Hardinge would spec a strong enough motor that the issues Bayzle mentioned wouldn't happen though I'd be interested in a first hand account if it maybe has issues on roughing cuts or the like.
While the leadscrew is fully working there aren't any change gears, so I have been wondering about trying an electronic leadscrew but that's for another day. Buying in metric ones is a neat idea though I'd never thought of that before.
Ok well that's a slightly clumsy title
Some of you may remember my lathe identification question
Against all sensibility that lathe got bought and mostly restored so far
However the apron is missing a few part: the worm screw that mounts on the power feed shaft and the assorted gears that transfer that power to either the rack and pinion or cross slide leadscrew.
Option 1: design and build a replacement for the missing gearing to the power feed shaft - the rarity of Wilfins means I can't expect to find someone to give me dimensions as per the original build
Option 2: Slap an electric motor somewhere in or on the saddle and belt it onto the existing gears
To me option 2 sounds much easier but at the same time its rare to see it outside of 1 or 2 modified mini lathes which makes me think there is a catch, A 21W, 60 RPM worm gear motor on ebay is only £15 so why wouldn't more lathes use that instead of all the cost of gear cutting?
|Thread: Knurling wheels (for the Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool)|
I might be misunderstanding the situation but will reversing one wheel in the holder cause the direction to flip and you will get your diamond?
|Thread: What coating/grease for long term tool storage|
I recently came into possesion of 4 off of some quite large Burnerd 4 jaw chucks as NOS. (fact of the day, the original packaging is a bunch of hay in what looks like a huge cake tin) I want to clean the current grease off of them, inspect for damage and then recoat them for longevity.
I'm vaguely aware of a particular oil/grease that is an industry standard for packing parts up. I remember my minilathe came covered in a coating which looked like dried oil- nice since it didnt cover the hands and anything else the lathe touched. Could anyone pass on the name for it?
|Thread: Electric Cars|
Nine out of ten journeys are just shuffling your own body to work and back, which EVs are perfectly suitable for in both range and capacity. Tesla is also making a pickup and E-vans are available which will probably start eating into cargo carrying. Imagine long distance driving will be the last niche that EVs don't eat up, or until faster and more frequent charging stations become common.
|Thread: How to get that high end paint finish|
My current brush is a Synthetic Harris Trade Fine Tip 2" or 2 1/4". Its the second cheapest screwfix sold (I thought avoiding the truly cheapest might give me an edge). I was thinking that some bristles on a stick are some bristles on a stick no matter how cheap. Will have a look around for the more expensive brushes.
Think my sandpaper was 320 grit, was sanding dry but with all the paint immediately clogging my paper I was considering using water to see if that helped, will do so in the future.
Called the drip tray a functional if not nice looking job, it may well be the soonest thing that needs repainting anyway because of wear in use. Next job will be the legs which I will try a better job on.
As part of my ongoing restoration of a Wilfin lathe I'm trying to get a nice smooth finish on all painted parts.
First part to be painted was the drip tray which the process was
Bend bent parts back to shape
Weld up crack on rim, grind smooth
Flap disc entire surface
Body filler entire surface (the tray looked like a moonscape of little pits)
Flap disc entire surface smooth
Screwfix basics red oxide primer, 2 coats, sand between coats
Machinery enamel. BS 00 A 09 Mid Gray, Gloss
Paint, sand, paint again (and a few more times trying to get a flat finish)
Now the issue is, if I paint thinly I get brush strokes left in the paint surface, if I paint thick the brush marks level out but I get left with splotches where some paint is obviously thicker than other parts.
I looked at my mini lathe and they have done a pretty good job of getting a perfectly flat finish with some no doubt cheap labour. Can anyone see the part of my process that is giving me such uneven fninishes?
|Thread: Lathe Identification|
Apparently the seller took this off the lathe and since lost it. It would have in hindsight helped a lot with identification huh.
I squinted at the tailstock and there are some differences. The keighley lacks the sort of sweep underneath the handle. Though still quite similar.
Also wow this forum put together must recognise on sight every lathe to exist. Thanks y'all
I'm going to restore this lathe so hard it makes a Hardinge HLV look like an Adept (not even a super one!) just to spite those who say its a pile of scrap (even though it may well be)
Very cheap, cheerfulness still under debate. Looking at the current going rate of Boxfords on ebay the exchange rate is about 4-6 of these per Boxford. I could take the legs and sell them for a profit.
I did actually inquire about a mill but apparently the vice is to be kept.
Thankfully for me I'm a masochist and enjoy restoring machinery at deaths door (I don't think I showed the solid block of rust that was a ML10 I restored)
After being suitably scared off from importing an Asian lathe I snooped about the internet a little bit for a lathe. It turned out to be facebook that provided in the end. It's very much a restoration project.
Can anyone recognise the make?
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