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Member postings for Capstan Speaking

Here is a list of all the postings Capstan Speaking has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: 25 years of Model Engineers' Workshop Special
29/06/2015 19:12:24

Ooooh I'll keep mine safe. Maybe it'll be an investment wink

Thread: Router bits
29/06/2015 16:29:28

I really wouldn't recommend it. They tend to have only two flutes and a narrow shank.

If you do a search on "corner rounding cutter" you'll see the difference.

On ali perhaps but steel probably not. If the router bit is ok to sacrifice then try it. Don't run it fast though.

Thread: What did you do today (2015)
28/06/2015 14:24:04
Posted by Muzzer on 28/06/2015 14:08:09:

The bizarre thing is that in Fusion, what you are creating with all the sketches / extrusions / cuts etc is known as a "body", even though it was created within Fusion's "modelling" environment. Unlike the other products, Fusion needs these "bodies" to converted into "components" before they can be assembled together.


OK that's just weird.

Perhaps Autodesk have bought up a separate product rather than write one from scratch. Perhaps the extra step is a conversion to make them compatible.

28/06/2015 13:29:45
Posted by Muzzer on 27/06/2015 20:59:07:

It seems to require you to make a bizarre (and irreversible?) transition from "bodies" to "components" before you can assemble parts into assemblies. The lack of any remotely intelligible documentation doesn't help at this point. I sort of got there but I'm still perplexed and a more than a little irritated on several fronts, not least at my own apparent stupidity.


It does seem to be a bit different to the approach that Inventor takes.

A "body" would refer to a dumb 3D object that has no geometric history to it. Imported files would exist this way. Inventor Parts could then be "derived" from such items.

It seems that many of the players in the CAD market have gone for a complete range from low end to top end products.

Parametric modelling is so different to the old ways. It used to be that geometry drove the dimensions but now the dimensions drive the geometry.

Thread: spanners and nuts
28/06/2015 11:24:19


When you can't get a purchase on something threaded that is tight, one technique is to use a centre punch.

First pick a point as close to the outside edge as possible. On these nuts use one of the hex corners. Then tap the punch in a couple of times to get a bite. Now, in the direction of unscrewing, use the punch to drive it around.

Pick your angle to keep it digging in but also to push sideways. As it unscrews follow it round with the punch. You can take a fresh bite if necessary.

Given the circumstances of the clamp nuts I'm pretty sure it will work.

Thread: chuck fitting
26/06/2015 08:08:26

The Chester Conquest has the spindle mounting flange drilled in both 3 hole and 4 hole patterns.

A standard 80mm Chinese 4 jaw chuck is tapped on the back in a 4 hole pattern.

It is very difficult to get screws in behind the flange. However it is easy to cut the heads off 4 screws and turn them into studs. Putting nuts on the back is then no worse than the 3 jaw.

I found the chuck register was too small as it came and I had to open it up slightly though.

25/06/2015 21:39:01

You can make a morse arbour for it using a soft morse shank.

A mini lathe will never produce so much torque that it permanently locks, or worse strips.

Thread: What did you do today (2015)
25/06/2015 15:02:12

Fred was a totally self-taught engineer. Limitless enthusiasm.

If you like Fred you should look on Youtube for Derek "Blaster" Bates.

Thread: Heat Treatment Oven
25/06/2015 08:49:28

How about a second hand pottery kiln?

Thread: square headed bolt
24/06/2015 22:03:50

Stop it ! Stop the madness! disgust

O.P. I'll make you one. pleeeeeeeeease

23/06/2015 18:25:12

You mean turning square bar?

It won't cause a problem if you take modest cuts. You'll soon get a feel for it.

Thread: Case hardening mild steel
22/06/2015 22:35:32

Steel won't absorb extra carbon unless it is above roughly 700 degrees. The longer it is kept there, the more it will absorb.

One industrial process is to bake it in a carbon monoxide filled oven.

22/06/2015 16:24:30

Are you sure it's carbonaceous? You might be better off with powdered charcoal.

There are modern equivalents of Kasenit too but they're expensive.

Thread: Changewheels anyone ?.
21/06/2015 22:27:22

Ah, much better, thanks.

So the bottom right shaft is the feed shaft and the upper shaft is the leadscrew. only one of these may be in use at any given time.

My guess is that the top gear there moves from where it is for screwcutting to the other shaft for feed only.

That leaves the lower gear being an idler. It appears to be a on stub shaft set into a swing plate or "banjo" plate. It can therefore be adjusted to engage when the last gear is on the leadscrew shaft or the feed shaft.

Does that help?

21/06/2015 21:01:14

It looks as though you've rotated the image by 90 degrees anti-clockwise. That's just not fair cheeky

"Head" is the gear that runs on the chuck shaft.
"Inter" is probably a lower position.
"Top Stud" is probably a higher position

There will also be a fourth gear on the shaft that is connected to the leadscrew.

It says there should be a 60 tooth gear first and two 75 tooth gears. That doesn't seem to be what you have.

Some wider shots (the right way up) would help.

Thread: Soft end MT mandrels - soft att the way through ?
20/06/2015 11:22:34

250 is nowhere near the range for annealing carbon steel.



It will need to be a dull red hot.

If it is not done in an oxygen free atmosphere, the surface will suffer too.

18/06/2015 20:18:53
Posted by John Stevenson on 18/06/2015 17:53:49:
Posted by Capstan Speaking on 18/06/2015 16:17:36:

I'm afraid so Mike. I was machining one yesterday and found that the shank is through hardened and the hardness protrudes a bit into the soft head and gradually fades out.

They're good for making a bit holder but not much else. You cannot drill through with normal drills.

If you could find an old morse shank drill it would be the other way around. You could part off the hard flutes and have a soft shank.


See my picture above, this is one I did today to test the current batch that ARC has.

All the drill were normal HSS drills but long series.

Mine destroyed the edge of an HSS toolbit with 10mm of the soft end still to go. It wouldn't surprise me if they vary.
I still recommend that Mike uses the shank of an old drill.

Don't get me wrong though. These blanks are a godsend and I still have a morse 2 one I'm going to drill just deep enough to be a boring tool holder.

18/06/2015 16:17:36
Posted by Mike Davies 2 on 18/06/2015 14:38:57:

Hi John, sounds like my idea of threading the small end M14 x 1.5 to suit some M16/M10 hydraulic pipe I have is a non-starter then. I'll have to revert to Plan B which is to use an M12 stud in the end of the pipe and drill through it 8mm. Shame as 10mm would have made for a sturdier stop rod and I want it for locking screws when turning them down.

Many thanks for your help and to all who answered,


I'm afraid so Mike. I was machining one yesterday and found that the shank is through hardened and the hardness protrudes a bit into the soft head and gradually fades out.

They're good for making a bit holder but not much else. You cannot drill through with normal drills.

If you could find an old morse shank drill it would be the other way around. You could part off the hard flutes and have a soft shank.

Thread: What did you do today (2015)
18/06/2015 10:09:30

Do you mean .7z Neil?

7-Zip is far friendlier.

Free software is like the phone calls you get from someone with an Indian accent insisting his name is Dave. They won't take no for an answer.

Thread: Kasenit desperately needed
18/06/2015 08:51:28

There are still commercial alternatives.



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