Here is a list of all the postings Clive B 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Drain Plug|
Thanks for the two links, as a matter of fact I've set for some of the crushable ones to see how they go.
I may stick a bit of sealer on them as well, belt and braces if you like, I don't care just as long as I don't have to keep getting underneath just to keep checking the oil level or finding a tell tail trail of oil on the drive.
Thanks for taking the time to have look its much appreciated, I agree the X25DT is a bit of a rare breed when it comes finding things for it, not so long ago I was trying to buy a new water temperature gauge sender unit ie. the bit which screws into the engine.
Absolutely no chance, fortunately it turned out to be the wiring in the end.
Thanks once again
|Thread: Vauxhall Omega on Screen Display|
Thanks for taking the time to reply fellas, I'll have to give the back lights a try, which I can't do at the moment because too busy rolling around under our other car which I'm trying to fix so don't want the Omega down also.
I did have the dash out some time ago and took this photo while it was out but can't remember if what I've marked in red are backlights, they may well be.
Does anyone know what's going on, the on screen display in my car has gone dim but only on part of the screen which makes it virtually unreadable in daylight.
I've taken a photo of it as best I can when it was dark outside, the dim part of the screen I've marked in red.
Thanks to anyone who can help
|Thread: Drain Plug|
The year for the Vauxhall is 2000 the engine fitted as standard is a BMW 6 cylinder 2.5DT, I belive the same engine was also used in the Range Rover, P38
You found a parts list for the Trooper, is there any chance you could find such a listing for a Vauxhall Omega B 2.5DT or Opel as you may know it, it's the one which has a BMW 6 cylinder lump in it as standard.
I do fully understand what you are saying, one can always improvise but as these aren't usually too expensive I'd pick the easy way out.
To start with if need 8 of them it's a bit of drag having to cut 20mm diameter holes in each one as I don't have a lathe and a 20mm drill is rather large which brings it to the point of having to drill a series of holes and then file it out.
I just thought it an idea to find out what others do as I'm sure they have come across the same problem.
Thank you for taking the time to see what information you could find, the oil pan drain plug sounds about right as it is smaller than the rear axle and gearbox plugs.
I will certainly download what you have found as it could come in very useful in the future as I don't think I will be getting rid of the Tropper any time soon and the exploded views can sometimes make things a lot easier when doing jobs on them.
As a matter of fact I had a look at the exploded clutch assembly which needs something doing to it because when I put my foot on the pedal there are more creaks coming from it than a haunted house .
So thank you once again for the link, you certainly manage to find things better than me.
Yes I'm a member of the Isuzu owners club and I did put a posting on there about plugs but did not have any replies, I guess it just depends on who reads the post, so I thought I'd give this site a try.
At the end of the day I've had the car for 14 years and the engine warning light hasn't come on yet to let me know it's time to replace the engine because lack of oil, so I guess when I put the plugs back in I must be getting something right
Yes, for all the modern technology in cars these days they go and stick warning lights in them which are a complete waste of time.
There’s one thing about the old cars at least they had temperature and oil pressure gauges in them, I remember an old Humber Sceptre I owned, getting into that was like climbing into an aircraft cockpit gauges everywhere.
Yes it has to be said some of the modern technology is certainly a backwards step, unless of course manufactures don’t want car owners to know there is a fault until its too darn late.
I must admit I haven’t bothered to try annealing the washers, I suppose I thought it a lot of trouble if I can get hold of the correct ones for the job.
If the crushable ones are suitable that’s fine they aren’t exactly a kings ransom to buy, just a bit of a fiddle getting the used ones off when its replacement time.
The year of the Trooper is 2000, engine type is 4JX1 so if you know where I can get a parts listing that will be great.
Indecently I don't use it for off roading, well not unless you count towing a caravan off grassy fields as being off roading
Thank you all for taking the time to reply;
Speedy Builder 5: Yes that’s what I was worried about the O ring squashing outwards as it’s not really contained in that application.
I’ve been having a look at some of the sites you guys have suggested and from what some of you have said a crushable copper washer may be the direction to go.
I’ve included a bit of a sketch to illustrate what I’m trying to get right, you will see the undercut is 3mm wide so obviously any washer thinner is going to drop down into the well creating a gap as shown in view Section A – A.
There must be some way around this, another thing I often find when looking for copper washers is the land always seems to be very narrow, I always have a job finding something the size of the washer I‘ve included a photo of.
I agree with all of you the last thing I want is an oil trail and as already pointed out a very expensive learning curve.
Jeff Dayman: I fully understand what you are saying about videos one does have to be careful.
A parts manual would be very useful, heaven knows where I would find one for an Isuzu Trooper 3.0TD because that’s the car we are talking about.
Emgee: That’s what I’ve been doing until now, putting a bit of sealer over the whole sealing washer but I thought it worth coming on the forum just to find out what others do in the same situation.
JasonB: New plugs, they are on a back order though the main agent and on these Troopers there are 2 plugs on the gearbox fill and drain obviously, 2 on the transfer case, 1 of that size on the front diff, 2 on the rear diff and 1 on the shift on the fly.
So, I’m looking at 8 plugs, the price from the main agent when they have them in stock is £5.31 + vat each plus postage.
I'm not sure of the price for the sump plug and it's a different size anyway.
The service on these Troopers pops up every 6000 miles, so yes if I can find an alternative to the main agent I will.
No topping up of oils on these cars it’s drain and throw away and fill with new every time.
Thanks again fellas for taking the time to reply it’s much appreciated
Edited By Clive B 1 on 27/07/2018 15:00:40
I'm having difficulty in finding the correct seals for my car drain plugs.
I assume they should be copper or aluminium, because of the style of plug I've been using rubber O rings with a smear of sealer, which is what I will continue to do if all else fails.
The outside diameter of the threads is 19.8mm but its got a sort of an undercut just below the head which with a thin washer makes for a very sloppy fit.
Does anyone know where I can get suitable seals for it, I've included a photo of the plug so you can see what I mean.
Thanks to anyone who can help
|Thread: Vauxhall Omega Aircon|
I did the sketch but had the headache of finding a website where I could upload the photos for free, I did use Photobucket which is no longer free and photos that have been posted on forums through them are no longer visible, what a bind that is.
I have tried a couple of breakers one being called breakersyard.com without much success, I was thinking these Omegas are getting that old now especially the diesel I’ll be lucky to find anything.
So, I got to thinking why buy a compressor if it’s just a simple thing like a screw and spacer which has gone missing.
I have just received a message on the Omegaowners Forum from a guy who has told me the air gap spacers on the Astra and Zafira are between 0.3mm and 0.5mm, I’m not sure if the same applies to the Omega.
I’ve got to say to everyone on here who replied, I have just seen the light how stupid can one be. I’ve just been watching a youtube video only to discover it’s not the whole clutch which slides along the splines of the shaft as I thought, heaven knows where I got that idea from.
I wear varifocals so if anyone asks why I thought that I’m going to swear blind I was looking through the wrong part of the lenses .
The one part of the clutch doesn’t move at all, it’s just the outer part that does all the moving in and out towards the driven pulley.
I’ve just run another check on the compressor with it off the car only to find clutch is not moving, when I connected some jumper leads from a battery onto the two pins of the plug it arched as though there was some kind of short, so I’ve done a resistance test with a multimeter and came up with a reading of 0.5 ohms.
I’m guessing that’s bad news because on a couple of American cars on youtube they are talking about the resistance should be between 3 to 5 ohms.
Maybe it would be cheaper just to simple ride around with windows open if itas too hot inside the car.
Ok I understand the M6 threaded section will screw into the shaft and the shoulder will sit against it, but it doesn't seem to leave much of a shoulder if the plain section has to pass through the M8 tapped hole, if that is what you are meaning.
I'm signing off for tonight hopefully I can get it sorted tomorrow.
Thank you for your reply, it may seem a daft question but why would the pulley need jacking apart, under normal operations ie aircon off, they are apart.
You also mentioned a shoulder bolt, I do know what one of those looks like but how would it fit. in my application?
If you have the time I'd sure appreciate a sketch, sorry if it seems straight forward to you.
Thanks once again for your help
Is there someone out there that doesn’t mind helping me out, I’ve got a problem with an aircon compressor on my car and I don’t happen to have an inner cabinet parliamentary retirement pension so I’m having a go at repairing it myself in an attempt to keep the repair cost down.
I’ve included some photos and done a sketch as best I can to illustrate how the aircon should work.
Just to bring you up to speed the car went in for an mot and I was told the aircon clutch was loose and making a hell of a racket.
When I looked at it I was surprised it past the mot, the clutch had completely come off and was rattling around inside the aircon pulley, it was the only thing stopping it from falling onto the road, the screw and spacer had gone completely no doubt dropped off along the road somewhere, which brings me to the problem I’ve got.
I don’t know what the screw looks like, if you take a look at my sketch in view “A” it shows the aircon compressor coil and the aircon compressor pulley which has a shaft with external splines and a blind M6 tapped hole.
View “B” is the aircon compressor clutch with internal splines but it also has an M8 through tapped hole.
Whenever the engine is running the aircon pulley is also rotating being driven via a poly v belt which in turn takes its drive from the crankshaft.
The pulley simply rotates freely on the stationary aircon compressor shaft.
There is a fixed coil which the aircon pulley rotates around, there is also a gap between the faces marked xxxxx on the aircon pulley and the aircon clutch, this is usually set by a spacing washer.
If the aircon is switched off inside the car the coil is not energised so the gap between the pulley and clutch remains, but once the aircon is switch on an electro-magnetic field is created which draws the clutch along the splines until both faces marked xxxxx are in contact with each other, causing the clutch to also rotate with the driven pulley and because its splined onto the shaft, it then turns the compressor shaft thus in turn starts to pump refrigerant around the system.
That’s what is supposed to happen, right or wrong I fitted a screw an M6 screw through the M8 hole in the clutch tightening it into the M6 hole in the end of the shaft only to find I’d locked the whole thing up so the clutch is in constant contact with pulley so the aircon never switches off irrespective of if the coil is energised or not.
Question does anyone know how I can fix the clutch to the shaft without locking everything up but allowing it to float once the coil is energised.
I’d thought about putting a longer screw in so it bottoms tight against the bottom of the blind hole in the shaft but making it long enough to leave a gap between the underside of the head and the clutch.
The thing is I have never heard of a screw relying on being tight by having it bottom in a hole.
I also thought I could tighten it so far and using Loctite let it set, but then there’s always that nagging thought, if the Loctite fails I’ll have the same problem all over again.
Now there is just one last possibility I can think of, years ago there used to be different classes of thread fits for example if you screw a stud into something and you don’t want the stud to come out when undoing a nut, the thread on that end of the stud was different to the nut end, at least I think that's how it worked. Having said that I can't imagine for one moment the car manufactures going to that trouble.
As to the M8 tapped hole in the clutch I haven’t a clue what that is for, all I know is it can’t be there just to make it look pretty.
Right guys that’s my tale, is there someone out there who can put me right on the problem.
How do I fix the clutch and allow it to slide along the shaft and what is the M8 hole for.
I hope I haven’t sent everyone to sleep who reads this post and to those who are still awake my thanks once again for any help you can offer.
Edited By Clive B 1 on 30/06/2018 22:35:29
|Thread: Air Compressor|
Hello Clive Forster
Thank you for taking the time to reply and the link, I will try and do a sketch of what my setup is like and try to post it on the forum.
More than likely it will be Monday 25th before I can get to it.
Can anyone help me out, first off it’s not model engineering but never the less it is engineering.
I’m trying to fix an air compressor on my car, the compressor will work but the clutch has become unbolted from the splined shaft on which it slides.
I’ve watched a few videos on youtube explaining how the air compressor works, basically there is a field coil over which the compressor pulley fits, this pulley is constantly rotating driven from a belt via the crankshaft ie when the engine is running the pulley is turning.
The end of the shaft this pulley fits on is splined onto which the compressor clutch fits.
The clutch does not contact the rotating pulley unless the air con is switched on from inside the car.
Once switched on the field coil sets up an electro magnetic field which pulls the compressor clutch along the splines against the rotating pulley this then causes the compressor shaft to rotate and pump the refrigerant around the system.
From the videos I’ve seen there is a spacer fitted inside the clutch to give it an air gap between it and the rotating pulley when the air con is switched off.
Two things, one I can’t see a spacer and two the bolt or screw is no longer there maybe both have fallen out when the clutch came off, I guess I’m lucky I did not lose the clutch also.
OK back to what I don’t understand, if I screw the clutch onto the shaft it locks the whole thing up against the rotating pulley meaning the compressor never turns off.
Does anyone have any idea on how the clutch is bolted onto the shaft without locking it permanently against the rotating pulley but at the same time allowing it to slide along the splines to contact the rotating pulley once the field coil is energised.
I may be totally wrong here, the shaft has a blind tapped hole in it, surely the bolt which holds the clutch in position doesn’t have to bottom in the hole and that’s what stops the screw coming lose??
Can anyone also tell me how to upload some photos on this site?
Thanks to anyone who can shed some light
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