Here is a list of all the postings Clive B 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cable Gland|
Sorry I must have missed your last posting, but having read it as I’ve already said this is getting way over my head, foot switches, key fobs plus all the cost of it.
I’m retired and sadly don’t have the Duchy of Cornwall or Lancaster to finance me, pity .
I suppose at the end of the day that’s why I’d thought I’d have a crack at doing it myself, all I can say is at the moment I’ve got a machine I can’t use, maybe I should have stuck to reaching over to turn it on and off.
Indecently I’ve got a compound sliding mitre saw much the same as yourself I can only use it if it’s not raining.
Its big, the depth of cut 111mm and width of cut 343mm, thank heaven I don’t need to wire a DOL or emergency stop button to it.
It looks as though I will have to start trawling the net for my local sparks
Thank you for taking the time to try and help me
Edited By Clive B 1 on 25/02/2020 19:06:44
Edited By Clive B 1 on 25/02/2020 19:08:01
Thank you for your kind offer of popping over, sods law I'm in Stafford light years away from you.
No doublt I'll be charged an arm and a leg for the job, but I don't want to get a belt off something even though the whole of the house wiring is RCD and RBCO protected.
Could the coil A1 be already connected internally, all I know is the motor ran and switched off with it wired as shown on my sketch.
I’ve got so much doubt in my mind I think I’m going to bring the E/stop cables into the old original switch box on top of the motor and because I’m way, way out of my depth and at this stage in the game I’ll get a qualified electrician in to do all the connections, including connecting up to the DOL starter.
Needless to say, I will certainly make a sketch and photograph how it’s been done and if anyone’s interested, I can post it on the forum.
I hope none of you have developed too much cramp in your fingers from all the typing youv'e done in replying to me , and thank you all once again for your views and help. It’s been very much appreciated.
" Good point Emgee regarding the control coil A1 connection - it may be connected - it needs to be checked so that the contactor does ‘holds in’ when starting".
I have to admit I haven't got a clue how to test it.
I have to admit the cables as shown in my schematic sketch were copied as a result of someone connecting the starter to the motor and actually had it running.
You will see the incoming live is connected to terminal 1 L1 and not A1, having said that I really do appreciate what you are saying about the schematic diagram inside the cover, so heaven knows how it ran and switched off.
When I purchased the machine from new all it ever had was the no volt switch on top of the motor.
The cable came out from the side of the switch box and had a three pin plug on the end of it. Because I did not want to drape the cable over the top of the machines for obvious reasons, it was passed down through the same hole the chip extraction hose goes through and from there was plugged into a convenient socket outlet on the wall.
To turn the machine on or off was a case of having to reach over to do so, as matter of fact sometimes when I wanted to switch the machine off, I’d use a piece of wood save stretching over.
My plan now was to fit emergency stops and bring all the wiring from them into the switch box on top of the motor, doing away with the original switch altogether and putting a steel blanking plate on top of box.
The cabling would then come out of the side of the switch box including the power supply for the motor down through the hole in the table and the DOL would be fastened to a board and either hung on the side of the machine I’m working on or on the wall and from there a short cable with a three pin plug would be pushed into a convenient power point.
I’d love to be able to fix the DOL starter in one permanent position but because the whole machine has to be moved around due to space limitations, I can’t do that. ie if the machine was pushed against the wall the DOL was permanently fixed to I’d never be able to reach it.
Ian I dare say a lot of the guys on this forum have metal turning lathes or mills, a woodwork machine such as mine needs a lot of space, think about it, if I have a piece of wood to be planed and say its 8 foot long the machine will need at least 18 feet, 8 foot going in and 8 foot coming out plus enough space to feed it in and get it out of the machine so that’s why sometimes the machine is shoved up against a wall.
Believe me I am trying to persuade my wife we need to move, I am working on it .
As you can see I’ve never had E/stop buttons on the machine, I was thinking I could use them to turn the machine off without the need to turn off at the DOL, having said that I don’t even know if this would have any adverse effect on the DOL or indeed if an E/stop has been operated I’d have to take the cover off the DOL and reset anything I’m hoping not.
Thank you for your comments they are much appreciated .
Would you be good enough to take a look at the photo Jonboy as modified and confirm it’s as the sketch below:
You will see I've removed the incorrect green wire.
I guess I just want to be sure we are all singing from the same hymn sheet.
Thanks for explaining about reset button, how stupid of me of course the buttons on the outer cover have got to press against something or I'd be pressing them forever.
I don’t have any documentation; I suppose I could Google Moeller MSE-M240V and see if that turns something up.
Not to worry though as long as it works that’s fine by me.
Yes, I know what you mean about mini trunking I’ve used it myself in the past, glued, nailed, screwed whatever it takes to get it to hold, I don’t think it will be glued not with all that shaking going on.
At the end of the day I suppose it comes down to whatever is desirable, I must admit I was going to settle for just clipping the wire and because such a big hole needs to be drilled to accommodate glands, I was going to just loop the cable under the angle iron.
But since you’ve mentioned mini trunking I’m now debating whether to use that and do as someone else suggested cut a grommet into two pieces and glue them into the hole both sides of the angle.
Thanks for clarifying the cable connections for me.
I may as well find out, Looking at the DOL picture Iv'e already posted, am I right in assuming the little square test button is so the overload coil can be tested periodically much the same as an mcb in a consumer unit is tested.
I can also see a small blue reset switch, is that to reset it after the test button has been pressed or indeed to reset it should the overload coil be activated at any time?
Thank you for your input, the cable to the interlock switches will be cable clipped to the underside of the table and are also set well back from the edge of the it behind the angle iron framework, so if I move the table about my hands will not be coming into contact with the wiring.
Emgee / Johnboy
I’m going to apologise before I even ask this next question, can you take a look at the revised wiring sketch.
Am I right in assuming when you say “Remove the brown live to the motor from T1 (2) and terminate in T2 (4)
The new termination will be as I’ve indicated in Red for the motor live wire and the link wire should run as I’ve indicated in Blue and not where I’ve shown it in Green, the reason I’m asking is there are two terminals 2 T1??
“i would prefer motor supply separated from the control/E-Stop circuit”.
Can I ask you, why the preference?
Emgee / Johnboy25
Thanks for the low-down on the wire terminations I'll get them swopped over.
I know as a posting gets longer things can get forgotten so can I ask again, I was thinking of bringing the flow and return wires from the emergency stop buttons into the box on top of the motor and running a 5 core cable from the DOL starter also to the box on top of the motor.
The only thing is I don't know whether it would need to be 2.5mm or would 1.5mm cable be ok I'm not sure because there is the motor load to consider??
Anyway have a look at the new sketch hopefully you will understand what I'm trying to do. I was just thinking it might be better than having a 3 core cable and then two twin core cables all cable tied together going into the DOL Starter. Any ideas on that one??
Just a few more photos of the DOL switch:
Guys or Ian P
Ian P 21-02-20 reply to my question of emergency stops, he said “Based on what I can determine from your text and pictures I would say that the type of cable and its installation are unsuitable, (if this is some sort of machinery).
If the cable is carrying mains voltage then it should really be three core (with an earth wire)”
Does anyone have any ideas what he means, I suppose I’m just trying to understand how I can earth the emergency stops, as all that’s inside them is provision for a single live cable and the housings themselves are all plastic.
I’m just glad of the help you guys are giving me to bother if someone has spelt a word incorrectly, as long as I can decipher what they mean then its good enough for me.
What’s more important to me, is the fact you have spotted a possible wire which could be missing.
Have a look at the photo and my wiring sketch hopefully you will be able to tell if there is anything wrong with the purposed wiring.
I will certainly earth the planer, I know I’ve got some 6mm or 10mm earth wire kicking around somewhere.
Too daft for words isn’t it I’ve been using this machine ever since I bought it new way back in 1984.
Did I worry about leaning over running machines to turn the motor off, No, did I think about having emergency stop buttons on it, Nah I never even gave it a second thought after all that’s how the machine was made by the experts.
Strange isn’t it when you get older you think what the heck am I doing.
By the way I like your terminology “A Senior Moment” I can see me using that phase more and more in the very near future.
Please don't say that, I'm not really into wiring DOL Starters, tomorrow Sunday I'll take another photo and post it on here so hopefully you will see the connections more clearly.
I'll also do a sketch of the wiring connections and perhaps you would be good enough to put me straight.
It would be a great help if you could use my photo or sketch and draw on it how the wiring should be, as its far better than describing it in words.
I don't want to get someone in to do it, but I do want to get it right.
Thank you for your observations
Bill and Old Mart
My apologies for getting it wrong about weakening the steel, I've reached that age where I can't remember what I did today, never mind what I did yesterday
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