Here is a list of all the postings Clive B 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Kity Woodwork Machine Switch|
That’s good enough for me I’ll more than likely get the 5.5 – 8.0 amp NVR unit shown.
Incidentally I’m still awaiting a reply from Axminster Tools.
I’ve been having a look at a Motor Water Proof Machine Drill Switch ON/OFF Push Button for 10A 220/380V £5.69 (item No: 143265824264) on ebay or same thing on amazon TOOGOO(R) AC 220/380V On/Off Water Proof Push Button Switch KAO-5 for Drill Motor Machine £3.29
Would it be possible to wire either of the above switches in circuit with the NVR unit or would it be a case of once the machine has been switched off by any of the stop buttons the only way it can be restarted is via the start button on the NVR unit, I’m guessing that is what the case will be, any ideas??
If it can only be restarted by the NVR unit I may as well buy the GLOGLOW 660V 10A Emergency Stop Switch £6.89 on amazon or 10A 660V Red Sign Mushroom Emergency Stop Push Button Switch Station Yellow XKUK £5.48 on ebay item No: 133115256527.
I assume 660V will also be good to go on 230V??
Thanks again for any advice you can give
Its certainly cheaper than the one on the Axminster site, I only messaged them today so it will be interesting to see what answers they come back with.
In the meantime thank you for the link, have you any thoughts?
Would the 5.5 to 8 amp be suitable or the 7 to 10 amp, I’m no expert.
I don’t suppose you know the seller’s id as I’ve tried looking under overload protectors and motor starter switches and haven’t had much luck, I know it must be there somewhere I'm just not looking in the right place.
I'm not sure how to look something up on ebay under order number and as for being made in China.
I’ve just done a check on the one I posted a pic of namely NHD sold by Axminster and where is it made Taiwan.
I guess in the end one just has to take a chance, its hard work trying to find electrical stuff made in the UK at an affordable price.
The current is marked on the plate as 6.9A it’s anyone’s guess if that’s the start-up current, so as you say 7.5 should be ok.
Anyway, I’ve been having a look at the starter in the picture advertise by Axminster Tools £54.50 of which they do one rated at 1500w so should be good for 1.1Kw
I’m not 100% certain it comes with overload protection, so I’ve sent them a message asking a few questions including how big it is.
I don’t really want something that’s too massive if I can help it.
Iv'e taken the motor off so I could get a good look at the spec. plate and typical it doesn't say a blind thing about FLC or in the booklet about the motors (as in the picture I sent to Ian)
All thats on the plate is as shown in the picture below.
Any ideas on my best way forward with that one?
I guess I can have a look at some DOL starters and get in contact with the sellers or manufactures and hopefully they will be able to advise if their product would be suitable for my needs, having said that the motor itself is only 1.5HP, so I don't think the street lighting will dim on start up serge.
I still haven't got around to doing a sketch of how I think it should be wired, but I will post it on here and hopefully someone if not yourself can give me the thumbs up or let me know if I will end up blacking the whole of the UK out .
Thanks for telling me what the cylinder/capactor is for, I must admit I thought the motor rotation direction was derived from the windings, but then I don't know much about electric motors other than they can turn clockwise or anti-clockwise.
I also uploaded a picture from the Kity booklet and it looks like the motor is equiped with a thermal overload no volt release.
You said it is best to wire the live via all contact pairs so link from the 1st set and o/l to the 2nd set and then to the o/load, Neutral in via L3 on contactor and then o/l.
I’m sorry to be a bit dim but you have lost me, I’ll do a small wiring diagram of what I think and hopefully you can correct it where I'll no doubt have it wrong.
I will get the motor off because I can’t see the spec plate properly as it’s stuck in the middle of all the machines, hopefully it will state what the full load current is.
Having said that, in the photo of the switch it says In 12A MAX, is that not the same thing?
I must admit when you said pendant, I immediately thought of a pendant type ceiling light .
Emgee’s suggestion of DOL starter sounds a good idea, all fully enclosed to keep the dust out including overload protection built in.
I don’t know if there is such an animal as a single phase DOL starter or if there are only three phase ones, although I’m sure a three phase type could be wired as single phase.
I have to admit I haven’t looked into starters at all yet.
Ian you said there was no overload protection with the original switch, just thought I’d ask can you tell that from the photos I included? and just out of curiosity what is the thing where it says do not lift the motor by this?
Thanks again Clive
Thank you all for taking the time to reply to my question, in particular Ian Parkin’s suggestion which I quite like the idea of.
I’m assuming if the start and stop switch was on a pendant it would need some sort of support. Which would be the best way to go a lightweight chain or a thin catenary wire?
As far as the contactor is concerned, I assume I would need to be looking for a 230v 12amp single phase one being fully enclosed with cable gland outlets or failing that purchase a box enclosure and fit the contactor in it just to keep all the dust out.
Can anyone suggest a suitable one or send a link of one which would do the job?
Would a wiring setup similar to the attachment work only with more stop buttons?
Can anyone advise what would be the best setup for a switch or switches for my woodworking machine.
Just to put everyone in the picture I’m referring to an old Kity Combination Machine, the type where the individual machines were fixed to a wooden table and a motor placed in the middle of them with the NVR switch attached to the top of the motor.
I've used the machine for a good many years with this setup but I’m getting a bit older and don’t really fancy having to lean over running machines in order to turn the motor off, just to add the switch is still working perfectly but I would like to change the setup if I can, I suppose a switch near each machine would be ideal or one which could be moved about if thats possible.
I’ve included some pictures just to show the present set up.
|Thread: Drain Plug|
Thanks for the two links, as a matter of fact I've set for some of the crushable ones to see how they go.
I may stick a bit of sealer on them as well, belt and braces if you like, I don't care just as long as I don't have to keep getting underneath just to keep checking the oil level or finding a tell tail trail of oil on the drive.
Thanks for taking the time to have look its much appreciated, I agree the X25DT is a bit of a rare breed when it comes finding things for it, not so long ago I was trying to buy a new water temperature gauge sender unit ie. the bit which screws into the engine.
Absolutely no chance, fortunately it turned out to be the wiring in the end.
Thanks once again
|Thread: Vauxhall Omega on Screen Display|
Thanks for taking the time to reply fellas, I'll have to give the back lights a try, which I can't do at the moment because too busy rolling around under our other car which I'm trying to fix so don't want the Omega down also.
I did have the dash out some time ago and took this photo while it was out but can't remember if what I've marked in red are backlights, they may well be.
Does anyone know what's going on, the on screen display in my car has gone dim but only on part of the screen which makes it virtually unreadable in daylight.
I've taken a photo of it as best I can when it was dark outside, the dim part of the screen I've marked in red.
Thanks to anyone who can help
|Thread: Drain Plug|
The year for the Vauxhall is 2000 the engine fitted as standard is a BMW 6 cylinder 2.5DT, I belive the same engine was also used in the Range Rover, P38
You found a parts list for the Trooper, is there any chance you could find such a listing for a Vauxhall Omega B 2.5DT or Opel as you may know it, it's the one which has a BMW 6 cylinder lump in it as standard.
I do fully understand what you are saying, one can always improvise but as these aren't usually too expensive I'd pick the easy way out.
To start with if need 8 of them it's a bit of drag having to cut 20mm diameter holes in each one as I don't have a lathe and a 20mm drill is rather large which brings it to the point of having to drill a series of holes and then file it out.
I just thought it an idea to find out what others do as I'm sure they have come across the same problem.
Thank you for taking the time to see what information you could find, the oil pan drain plug sounds about right as it is smaller than the rear axle and gearbox plugs.
I will certainly download what you have found as it could come in very useful in the future as I don't think I will be getting rid of the Tropper any time soon and the exploded views can sometimes make things a lot easier when doing jobs on them.
As a matter of fact I had a look at the exploded clutch assembly which needs something doing to it because when I put my foot on the pedal there are more creaks coming from it than a haunted house .
So thank you once again for the link, you certainly manage to find things better than me.
Yes I'm a member of the Isuzu owners club and I did put a posting on there about plugs but did not have any replies, I guess it just depends on who reads the post, so I thought I'd give this site a try.
At the end of the day I've had the car for 14 years and the engine warning light hasn't come on yet to let me know it's time to replace the engine because lack of oil, so I guess when I put the plugs back in I must be getting something right
Yes, for all the modern technology in cars these days they go and stick warning lights in them which are a complete waste of time.
There’s one thing about the old cars at least they had temperature and oil pressure gauges in them, I remember an old Humber Sceptre I owned, getting into that was like climbing into an aircraft cockpit gauges everywhere.
Yes it has to be said some of the modern technology is certainly a backwards step, unless of course manufactures don’t want car owners to know there is a fault until its too darn late.
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