Here is a list of all the postings Bruno Taylor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Noisy WM250V Lathe|
I thought it better to start a new thread although a similar one started on 4th November on a similar topic. Its nice to know I'm not alone.
I bought my WM250V (variable speed, powered cross feed) in October last year. Very soon after initial use it started to make an odd noise. I immediately stopped what I was working on, phoned Warco whose workshop guy said it shouldn't make that noise. Yes it was okay to continue to use. Warco would arrange collection back to their workshop. By agreement the lathe was collected in March but at their workshop no problem. I visited and agreed despite my best efforts the noise could not be initiated. The lathe was eventually returned in September.
Needless to say the noise has immediately returned. It seems to me to be some sort of electical resonance. It does not always occur, but sometimes does on start up. It is usually initiated by vibration, intermitent cuts on steel being the worst offender but parting off 1" steel is also a good bet.
The immediate cure seems to be switch off/on. Doesn't always work. Sometimes using the emergency stop button works together with on/off at the mains.
I have tried alternative electrical supply, sometimes works sometimes not.
I am in contact with Warco who say their Technical Department are looking into it.
Having read the other thread there is some ideas to try, but all mean partial disassembly which I m loathe to do. I think it's Warco's problem and don't want to invalidate any warranty.
Any advice or similar experieneces out there.
|Thread: Two Piece Crossheads|
Here is the drawing of the crosshead I am considering.
It is based on Martin Evans usual type except that instead of a cover plate and close fitting!! washer I have designed two similar halves. This is for 3/4 scale loco (Princess Marina) so the bolts are 10BA.
The drop link is integral to the crosshead. I may consider reversing the upper row of bolts and substituting countersinks so that the external view is improved.
A concern is that the boss will be split, but with a horizontal taper pin should be okay.
I have not researched which bonding agent to use but an alternative would be silver soldering or brazing. Not keen on brazing but LBSC stuck all sorts of valve gear bits together that way.
Further comments and opinions most welcome.
|Thread: Air Compressor recommendation?|
I bought one a few months ago to air test a couple of minature steam engines. A 5" Boxhill 99% complete and a 3 1/2" gauge Maisie Chasis.
It worked fine but it is noisy. Also l got very little control of the pressure at the low volumes being used. I had the best results by using a globe valve as a regulator.
I bought an air blower type attachment to clean my lathe swarf but rarely use it as it blasts the swarf into even more innacessible places!
I have not used it for painting for which l have a baby elephant compressor also bought on ebay/amazon for my Badger air brush which works really well.
Hope it helps
|Thread: Two Piece Crossheads|
I have been looking at the design and construction of outside cyinder crossheads.
With the advances in bonding agents l am thinking about making the crossheads in two symetrical parts split along the line of the slidebars. I can then mill out a curved recess for the small end. I then propose to use two scews and an epoxy bonding agent to stick them together before milling the slideways and piston boss. The pin would be conventional.
Does anyone have any experience of this type of construction? Any views or comments?
|Thread: Parting Problems - Backlash ?|
I initially had problems parting off with my WM250. All the symtons mentioned above.
I then sought instruction and found Tubalcains videos on YouTube. I followed his advice and now part off with spectacular success.
I use carbide inserts just below centre.
Key points, not too fast, about 1/3rd normal macining speed. Lock the saddle and power crossfeed as slow as possible using selectors ( not gear changes or low range ). Minimum overhang, both tool and topslide. Lubricate harder/tougher metals.
Incidently l also used Tubalcains advice to cut my first course (16TPI) thread in stainless steel.
|Thread: LBSC Maisie Cylinder Drain Cock Operation|
Many thanks for the replies.
A little about my Maisie, I bought her as a part built via a well known auction website with a view to a couple of winters project. She includes a builders plate dated 1942. There is no boiler but the rest is pretty well all there. After a superficial clean up and oiling of the motion she ran on air at about 30psi, pretty impresive l think. So not so much a rebuild as a recommision.
Back to the drain cocks, they are as the book, nothing on my drawings, and are simple lifting cocks so also act as automatic snifting valves. But to drain water need to be lifted. I really like Julian's suggestion and am working up a design of a bogie pivot pin that also introduces some side spring control of the bogie. A key factor is to make a post-construction fitting to avoid additional dismantling.
Regarding the boiler, l had already deduced that the combustion chamber version would offer little benefit from lots more complication. So thanks for the endorsement.
l'll keep you posted.
Niether LBSC's book on Maisie or the drawings show how the drain cock's are operated.
There appears to be very little room and straight-forward rods and links are baffling me.
l'm sure this must have been resolved many times over.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
|Thread: LSWR Adams 415 class tank locos (Radial tanks)|
I know its a few years ago but did you complete the loco?
I am thinking of the LSWR 4-4-0 Salisbury by the same designer as my next (2nd) loco.
Do you have any advice? Was it a straightforward build, any particular difficulties, good design and drawings etc.
I am presuming the engine is inside Stepensons motion with slide valves.
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