Member postings for pgk pgk

I switched to auto boxes mid 80's because most of my driving was in London and it's so much more relaxing in traffic with creep. OH kept manual cars 'in case she forgot how' but just recently decided she'd had enough and got an automatic too. I still drive a mix and it doesn't bother me much now i live rurally. With the Tesla there isn't a gearbox as such anyway (but there are fixed gears in the motors themselves).

When i did have a sports auto with flappy paddles i wasn't that impressed. The GT86 still made too many decisions about when it would change to my selection so the paddles were essentially useless - just as easy to use the right foot +/- the 'sports mode' button

pgk

You mean the Ka-car?

pgk

It's going to depend on your lathe shape/model and how far you splatter the coolant. My own lathe sits on a swarf tray with a drain hole and grill so easy enough. A concertina is still going to allow stuff to spill off the sides.
I suppose the simplest would be a tray attached to the leading edge of the slide or on the slide but may limit how close you can get to the headstock.

pgk

I see no-one has mentiond the use of thread wires - fiddly but one of the ways of matching accepted tolerances as opposed to making it fit a matching part.

Nigel,

You have my sympathies. I don't use turbocad regularly enough to have answers - when i do use it I have to fiddle about to remember stuff.

Many years ago with turbocad 2 or 3 I redrew my architect's drawings with suggested changes and sent them to his fax machine late one evening. Yes, in real world size - so it ate a complete roll of fax paper and the roll he replaced it with before he figured how to clear the buffer...

pgk

Could he have been using an 'ordinary' backsaw for that purpose?

Agreed discs not saw blades or diamonds. Discs come in two thicknesses as far as I'm aware and the thicker ones are more robust for this sort of duty. As stated the thin ones will shatter unless very very careful.

pgk

From a past bitter experience don't touch anything unless it has unlimited bandwidth or at least auto-shuts off if the limit is reached. I had a site that got caught by a maliciouss attack I didn't spot for 24 hrs or so and cost an extra £1K.

pgk

Another option is to screwcut away from the chuck and at least stop the worry of crashing stuff.

The obvious answer would be a 3/8ths cup on the back and 3/8th supports or tack from the back if flush at the front. But I guess there's a reason why you can't do that. Won't the bushes get distorted anyway? Can you not weld some plugs and machine them out afterwards? Or rely on locktite?

pgk

The only mikes i own are a cheapish set from chester hobby about 4 years old now (so not the set currently shown)

How accurate? Wel without other methods of comparison it's impossible to say. Repeatability is likely more down to me that the tool whch i consider consistent within my abilities - in other words if I spin the thimble down too fast it'll go an extra 0.01mm or so. When I;m trying to work to better tolerances (should it be justified) then I check with the test bar before that session and often have to adjust by 0.01mm or so. But then do I always wait until everythign in the shed has reached ambient temp when I've put the woodburner on? Can I machine on the mill to that accuracy anyway along a piece of material? It's quite disappoining to check the thickness along say a 4" length of material and find it varies by a few 1/100th mm and more cheering to hear the likes of Oxtool make ocassional comments that suggest I'm not alone.

On the same topic - how many folk check accuracy of their DRO with test bars or wait until the mill has warmed to temp on table etc. I doubt the DRO scale ex[ands exactly like every other table component.

Fortunately none of that matters for the bits I make which fit together rather than having to fit a part made elswhere and inaccessible.

To quote Clint Eastwood "A man has to know his limitations"

It's a screw and a rachet and two anvils - after that it's individual appreciation of feel and bragging rights.

pgk

There used to e CB radio user called Lucy Lastic. She might know.

pgk

I also converted all my 6ft floursecent fittngs to led tubes and consider it a success. Be aware that led tubes come as options that either need just live/neutral at one end or live through the length of the fitting to neutral the other end. Usually marked on the tube itself and the fitting being rewired accordingly.

Julian,

Excellent. Understood. Thanks

pgk

Edited By pgk pgk on 15/11/2019 00:18:21

Julian,

First I must apologise for the brain fart in calling you Justin! Sorry.

So you fit to the curve of the inner firebox tube plate and then later file the flats for the firebox wrapper once that is ready for fitting? Any benefit in my suggestion of curving it further round then having a step for the side piece of the foundation ring to sit on?

pgk

Edited By pgk pgk on 14/11/2019 20:52:22

You should be able to wiggle it side to side without much effort but if it's got sticky with packing grease or old crud then I'd clean it out. As you know the function is simply to be pushed off-centre as it touches the edge and you don't want anything sticky stopping it. I don't think I've ever oiled mine but lucky my shed doesn't promote rusting.

Rather than squinting (and if you don't trust the edge finder) then a simple rod with a bearing and a spot of paint will work.

pgk

Not trying to be confrontational here but..

What's the problem with a cheap micrometer? It's basically an adjustable zero scale and a screw thread and two (hopefully parallel) anvils. Unless measuring to an accuracy greater than the mill can produce.....

pgk

Justin,

I'd appreciate your further comments, please

To shape the front foundation ring I guess you have to have the inner firebox assembled at least temporarily (or solder its wrappers first). Indeed it was the fiddly corners when my original leaks happened unless one manages a good fillet to smooth it out. Is there any benefit to adjusting the inner firebox to have it's wrapper inside the ends?

You suggest using a wider piece of copper to shape that front foundation ring (which makes sense). If curving that around the side of the inner firebox do you cut a step so the side foundation rings can also be stepped and sit on top?

pgk

"Waste money on that modern tosh? Nowt ya cannae do wi' a few twigs, string and sand, me lad!"