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Member postings for MalcB

Here is a list of all the postings MalcB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Milling Machine
10/03/2017 16:25:58
Posted by Mike Bondarczuk on 09/03/2017 17:38:34:

Robert,

I also have a Chester 626 mill but an earlier one from Taiwan and have a three phase motor via a VFD and four DRO's and it is all that I need, though an extra 4 inches on height clearance would be nice when tapping sometimes.

Mike

I bought same early Chester 626 as this in used condition, it had Full 3 axis DRO + vernier scale on quill + supplied with power feed ( which I had to fit myself ) for bargain price of £1k about 18mths ago. It was a well sorted machine.

As others do i made a 110mm head spacer which means i can leave the ER40 chuck on most of the time.

Personally I am pretty much old school and favour British machines, however I do very much appreciate what you can get for your money from the Asian suppliers. Big question would be would I pay more than double what I personally did for a new 626. Simple answer would be, more than likely if a decent British machine was not in my sights. I do think that the 626's fully kitted out are extremely good value. As a second hand unit it has so far been an excellent choice. I recently converted to 3 phase with VFD for much easier speed control.

Thaiguzzi mentioned the T Senior on Lathes.co site which went recently within 2 hours of being put on there. For its price it looked an absolutely stunning buy.

But there is also a 28" x 8" Marlow ( Dronsfields ) vertical still listed on the same site which is less than £1k that also looks a really good buy. Had It been available when I was looking, it would be in my sights. Its a nice size somewhere between the 626 and the short 42" tabled version of the Bridgeport.

If your choice is a new machine, then the 626 series have got to be the best value mills around given their versatility.

 

 

 

Edited By MalcB on 10/03/2017 16:26:31

Thread: Drilling tiny holes.
05/03/2017 17:17:24

When spotting for tiny holes I use a very pointed D bit I made quite a few years ago, relieved on the back of the taper.

Drill Speeds already covered by others

img_0887.jpg

img_0888.jpg

Thread: Posting Links - Ipad/Iphone
04/03/2017 21:28:09
Posted by Vic on 04/03/2017 19:56:11:

Copy the link you want to paste then click the globe and chain (link) button and paste your link in the box. Job done. It's a bit perverse but this website seems to use very very old software. I'm guessing those responsible for the site still use DOS.

Thanks Vic, will give it a run shortly.

Malc

04/03/2017 19:39:08

Have read the post on how to post Links using PC and mouse, however:

Is anybody able to talk me through posting a link from an Ipad/phone please?

Thread: Random Paint Job
04/03/2017 18:25:44

Can't believe the chuck was missed.

04/03/2017 07:06:31

People have probably seen this but:

One way of covering up any signs of bed wear..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272575900232

Thread: Chuck binding
27/02/2017 18:08:15

To do properly the chuck has to be stripped.

However, you can degrease both jaw and slot once again. Lightly Engineers blue the jaw and see if you can see any obvious areas of rub when you wind it in and out. If its visible a light scrape in the chuck slot may just ease it.

Thread: Waterless Hand Cleaners for Shop Grubby Paws
25/02/2017 14:40:02

Use Warrior soft touch, powder free Nitrile gloves 90% of time when in workshop or working on bikes. Sourced from industrial stockist 1 mile from me.

No gloves when extra feel is needed, then Swarfega plus large two ply rolls of blue paper to wipe off. Good enough till full indoor wash.

Edited By MalcB on 25/02/2017 14:40:52

Thread: Nice small lathe ( CVA )
22/02/2017 11:36:17
Posted by John Stevenson on 22/02/2017 10:30:25:

Possibly because it was a bit rarer model ?

Can never work out why they don't fetch the money compared to a clunker of a Colchester with ropey headstock gears and an apron thinly disguised as a hand grenade.

I think people may get cautious about buying when there is minimal spares available. Very little information about if you have to dive into the drive and gear systems. This is a rarer model with next to no chance of decent spares. It would be a similar situation with a Monarch 10EE or similar where people have to go via the States.

In comparison there is a bit more of a market for the Hardinge toolroom lathes as they were more plentiful, so good ones do tend to command a reasonable price. Another reason may well be the factor of their weight, They can easily fall out of the range of the cheaper engine cranes and other lifting equipment available to the home engineers.

Thread: Economy Hit & Miss Engine Build.
21/02/2017 20:15:18

SAE 660 is a good all rounder and suitable for light duty bearing operations.

Phosphor Bronzes like PB1 when used for bearings or gears are only really needed for medium to heavy duty applications.

21/02/2017 17:33:11

There is a build on this site ( apologies first as not sure how to make this a direct link ).

http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Economy_engine_1.html

Thread: Drill Chuck Recommendations for Drill Press
20/02/2017 16:40:52

If you have gone to all the trouble of restoring a Pollard why settle for anything less than a good Jacobs chuck?

It wasnt an industry standard for nothing as a good all rounder. Likely more of these originally fitted in jobbing shops than any other brand.

I have a Kerry back geared pillar drill yet to do and when it's done it will have either a Jcobs or a Cardinal chuck on it ( if i can get my hands on another good one ).

Thread: Scaling drawings
18/02/2017 23:56:51
Posted by Martin Connelly on 18/02/2017 19:33:11:

MalcB, weight is mass times gravity so if the mass is scaling up by a factor of eight when linear scale is doubled then weight will also go up by a factor of eight unless gravity changes.

Martin

Hi Martin,

Agree mass x specific gravity = weight.

So lets do an exagerated example of two materials I can remember the specific gravities of:

2 cu inches of steel ( 0.27lbs/cu in ) and 2 cu inches of lead ( 0.36 lbs/cu in ).

This equals 0.54lbs and 0.72 lbs = 0.18lbs difference

Scaled by factor of 8 = 4.32lbs steel and 5.76lbs lead = 1.44lbs difference.

Therefore the difference does scale up by eight.

So unless i have missed something, yes i think i agree with whats being said.

18/02/2017 17:11:55

I dont think it will balance Tim.

If you scaled an alloy piston say 100% it will not have the same weight as a steel block scaled 100% dimensionally because of their varing specific gravities. Mass will scale but the weight wont I dont think, maybe I am missing something though.

 

 

Edited By MalcB on 18/02/2017 17:13:27

Thread: Boxford lathe gurus...
17/02/2017 16:06:53

Posted by not done it yet on 17/02/2017 13:36:43:

Thinking here that it doesn't look like an amateur/homemade fitment.

The faced area on which it sits doesn't look too easy for the model engineer - a large chunk to fit on a mill (or could that be done by some other means?) - but I'm interested to know how, it it was.

It appears thaf different logo plates were fitted to the standard machine.

So I still opt for a factorg special, until persuaded otherwise.

The painted machined surface is surprising, mind!

Yes,now think deffo away from home job given two similar..

Easy job to machine the headstock with stub arbor on horizontal mill.

Now leaning towards Dollis Hill in favour of factory, but could be factory, who knows. The Holbrook lathe ( ex Dollis Hill ) to replace Boxford post recently certainly bears out they invested in decent kit there. Would have love to have seen pics of their set up.

Thread: MEW 252
16/02/2017 16:22:41

I will leave mine off and put it on Ebay for £80k as a missprint

Thread: New Holbrook Lathe to replace my Boxford
16/02/2017 07:02:41
Posted by thaiguzzi on 16/02/2017 02:20:07:

Nice lathe.

Yeah, i'd swap a Boxford for that.

Another PO Research Institute lathe surfaces...

Hi Joe and welcome.

Yes this is quite uncanny that another lathe from this establishment should surface.

Looking at the spindle limits that you are chasing is taking you into higher end toolroom standards which is where quite a few of these Holbrooks ended up. Not massive swing capabilities given the size and bulk of the machines, but within their limits were very precise and accurate in what they could consistantly produce.

Toolrooms of this era tended to use similar sized machines for the more detailed work and some of the larger DSG's for bigger capacity requirements.

It does go some way to confirming that the PO research facility did in fact have a decent budget for their equipment. Dont know the actual figures are for the weight but at a guess its got to be 1000kgs plus.

This should keep you busy for a while and will no doubt end up a real satisfying piece of kit for you. Such a lot of lathe to digest.

Edited By MalcB on 16/02/2017 07:03:19

Thread: Cheap chucks from ebay.
15/02/2017 16:27:07

Like quite a few others I have ended up with a collection of chucks.

At the moment I have only the one Chinese chuck being the RDG HBM 125mm self centring 4 jaw chuck. This is quite a quality piece of kit for its money and I wouldn't hesitate to buy or recommend another HBM chuck if cost is prohibitive.

I have a Pratt Burnard 160mm 3 jaw and one of their 200mm 4 jaws plus a 6" 4 jaw slim body chuck of theirs.

My favourite two chucks by far however, are a 160mm TOS 3 jaw and a new TOS 125mm 3 jaw ( which i aquired at knock down price ). They have more sensitivity and feel more precise than the Pratt. All mine are D1-4 mount either direct or on backing plate.

For a Quality lathe like you have I would seriously recommend looking at getting a deal on a new TOS chuck. The self centre 3 jaw normally becomes the most used chuck and if you can stretch to it I would choose this one carefully.

I do have a Bison 160mm slim bodied 4 jaw chuck D1-3 direct mount surplus if you are stuck for one, Needs a chuck key.

 

Edited By MalcB on 15/02/2017 16:30:30

Edited By MalcB on 15/02/2017 16:31:46

Thread: Warco WM18 T Slot size
15/02/2017 13:54:25
Duplication oops

Edited By MalcB on 15/02/2017 14:15:26

15/02/2017 13:54:23
Posted by petro1head on 15/02/2017 10:19:55:

Out of interest if I got the 10mm stud kit instead of a T Nut could I not just buy some 25x12 flat bar to make locating nuts

Hi Petro,

Yes you could use flat strip 12mm thick but not an ideal way of doing it. My T nuts are stopped about a thread short of going right through the T nuts. Deliberatly done to stop the studs going through and locking the T nut by way of the end of the stud.

If you use 12 mm strip doing this would only leave about 11mm of effective thread grip. The ideal amount of thread hold for any sort of clamping forces or stressed items is a minimum of 1.5 x thread/stud diameter so for M10 you ideally need 15mm minimum. T nuts are an ideal simple milling project for a MW18. Blacked in oil look OEM as well.

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