Here is a list of all the postings Graham Powell 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 3 1/2 inch small boilered TICH|
Thanks for that. Will investigate further.
Happy New Year to all Tich builders. I have managed to acquire some very well done Tich parts but I did notice that there is the remains of a broken tap in one of the cylinders. Is there anyway of removing this without causing further damage to what is a very nicely done item?.
Hello Ian and all fellow Tich builders, Many thanks for that. I thought I was on the right track but surprised that LBSC did not mention it. I am lucky in that I have managed to acquire some ME taps and dies. Yesterday I managed to finish off the 2nd buffer beam and had a go at assembling the frames. I was quite pleased with the result as it all sat level on a piece of plate glass and was all square as well. I won't fix it all together permanently until I 've done the hornblocks which is the next job in the book. regards
Stupid question time!. In his book LBSC says fairly often "drill 1/4 inch and thread 1/4 x 40 tpi " as an example.
Thanks for the sound advice. it does appear that although LBSC covered the building in some detail, you need to be able to work out some things for yourself. Not a bad thing in reality. I found it a good way to learn how to do things in the past. I normally work in a much smaller scale ( Gauge 0) and I use the emery cloth on a piece of plate glass to get a nice smooth finish on the backs of the wheels.
Thanks for that. When I get to that bit, I will take it all on board before deciding what to do. When facing off the cylinder castings etc what do you recommend in the way of tooling and lathe speed etc. Ryan has a wonderful finish on the components he has done. Still that is a little way at the moment.
Bye for now
Why is using a milling machine better?. Is it a question of cutting speed or slower rate of feed. I do have a small milling machine which I think the tailstock chuck on the lathe will fit. Not got that far yet still on the buffer beams
( one of which I cut to the wrong length - definitely a case of measure twice, cut once.
Thanks for that. I am still at that very early stage but I will be picking your brains as I go along. I'll ask about the cylinders when I get to them . Yours are beautifully finished. Certainly drilling the ports seems to be very tricky but I will cross that bridge when I get to it.
All the best
Its all your fault!. Being so impressed with your write up and pictures I decided to have a go myself. I have a fairly well equipped little workshop but 3.5 inch engines will be about the limit if I am to get in there as well. I have the castings for the wheels, hornblocks and axleboxes. ( Very prompt service from GLR Kennions). So far I have made the frames and yesterday made the little clamp to hold the hornblocks for milling. Today I am hoping to cut the buffer beams. I am following the LBSC book as far as possible with help and advice from chaps on the Forum. Later on in the book, LBSC advocates drilling the steam ports by hand. This sounds like a recipe for disaster in my opinion. How did you do yours? I am not too worried about having a working locomotive . I am just hoping to get a chassis that will run on air and if that works obtain a boiler. I shall probably get Helen at Western Steam to make they boiler as they are only just down the road. Keep the pictures and write up coming. I am sure I am not the only one inspired by your efforts.
Many thanks for the kind reply. I have never done any boring so it will be good practice for me. LBSC advocates clamping the boxes together and drilling a hole through both. This then needs enlarging to a size suitable for a 3/8 reamer. I like the sound of your method but I am assuming that the boxes will need to be set up in a four jaw chuck. Doing them that way, will accuracy be maintained?. I am assuming just drilling the holes in a pillar drill is not a good idea!. Apologies if I sound like a complete duffer but I am new to this though not new to modelling trains.
Following this with great interest. I have started to build one mainly to try and improve my engineering skills. I am following the words and music in the book.
What is the best way to drill the axleboxes to take the axles?. I have heard horror stories about drilling large holes in gunmetal.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.