Here is a list of all the postings Chris Richards 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Looking to start a CNC project|
If Linux is used for cnc in industry then I'm up for trying it, in a previous life I worked with Linux. The simulation idea is a cheap way to find out how it all works first. The spec Murray has mentioned has at least given me a bit of a bench mark to work off when purchasing.
John if you know of a Bridgeport Boss in that kind of price range let me know it would certainly save some money and time. What kind of places do people find machines? Anything on eBay seems to go for much higher and ends up been worn out.
The denfords seem to turn up a bit but don't the specs not mention cutting steel?
Shaun I don't expect it to be easy but hope my computer experience may help, I did once try do some 3d drawing in A program called Creo or something that's meant to be like solid works. The bit I'd like to see is how that drawing is then converted into tool paths as I guess that you need the orientation of the part the way it's clamped up and parameters setting according to the depth of cuts and cutter size on the machine? Is it more complex than that?
I've not yet got a Bridgeport Mill but I guess that's the most flexible in terms of work size and horsepower especially for the size of the machine. I've got an Elliot Jig borer and a Centec 2b horizontal and vertical mill I could cnc one of those but the the table sizes are only about 16" and 25".
Which model of the DMM Tech motor are you using? I think closed loop servos are good option if understand right better at avoiding loosing the position on the table mid job?
Are most interface boards compatible with either solution Mach or via linux cnc? I wouldn't mind buying the interface board and motors and hooking them up to the computer and just bench testing telling each motor what to do.
I think ballscrews are a must from research without close to zero backlash the mills can easily stack up lots of mistakes and loose accuracy. I think play in the screw is less of an issue with a cnc lathe as it can be programmed to compensate but would still upgrade them.
Shaun I currently make replica parts for vintage bikes and can use a lot of different materials i'e brass, bronze, stainless steel and high tensile such as en19. I know you can't always tick every box with smaller machines but need to keep machining options open. One of the reasons I only use the model engineer forum is because of the mind set of anything is possible in your shed.
Bandersnatch it definitely is scary been without a machine I think I'll try do a machine I use the least first so I can get a feel for the conversion and programming. I'm not sure I could cope with everything cnc as there's so many times I like the trial and error approach of making things.
Hello and Happy New Year,
This years project idea is to build a cnc workshop and funds are tight so I don't want to make expensive mistakes with purchase of controller boards and servos/ steppers etc that are not upto the job.
The end goal is machines capable of small production in a variety of materials. So maybe would convert more industrial sized machines such as a Harrison l5 lathe and Bridgeport sized mill.
I figure if the machine without cnc is capable of daily running and accurate work a conversion could do it or am I wrong?
Any thoughts and opinions are food for thought
|Thread: Myford super 7 headstock riser block|
Thanks Dave, I figured it must be doable, but was surprised I could find no mention of it anywhere. I had a look tonight I think other than the gears it's just the gear cover that wouldn't fit but that possibly could be cut and tig welded to stretch it to suit.
I'm currently in a transition between using a Boxford and Myford. I want to sell on the Boxford to make room and funds for something bigger. There's a job I do about once a month that will not fit in the Myford so I was thinking about adding a riser block between the bed and headstock. Has anyone done this already? I guess the only issue is the gears down to the gearbox and would probably need to fit larger sizes within the same ratio to keep the correct feeds?
Thanks for any opinions,
|Thread: Centre drilling on a Myford Super 7|
Thanks for the reply's it looks like a steady is an essential part for the Myford that I don't yet have.
I am new to the forum and have just bought a Myford Super 7 which I was hoping would replace my slightly worn Boxford. I have noticed the spindle bore is really small on the Myford so the question is how could I accurately centre drill 20mm round bar 240mm long?
Maybe sounds a daft question but I was used to placing bar through the spindle and only have about 10mm exposed from the chuck to dial it into centre and then drill.
Any suggestions/ advice would be great otherwise I'll have to trade the myford for something slightly bigger.
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