Here is a list of all the postings Breva has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help required with Colchester lathe|
If you think that a repair / disassembly writeup on doing the clutch on a Bantam would be of any help, let me know. The parts won't be the same but the same principles may apply.
On the Bantam I had to remove the leadscrew and square shaft before the apron could be removed. This is easy by removing the RH bracket holding both.
|Thread: New mini mill-which tools?|
Good luck with the new Mill
One of the few extras that I bought when I first got my mill was a set of parallels. They are not strictly an essential but they have proven to be a good investment.
They have many uses in the setting up of jobs on the mill. I wouldn't be without them now.
|Thread: Keeeping Machines Clean, New idea or Old?|
Under my Bantam I have used a sheet of the free rubber that Ian Parkin kindly provided some time back to line the tray.
Marvellous stuff and makes cleaning up a breeze. Everything comes away in one clean lift. Away better than cling film for that job.
|Thread: colcehster bantam 1600 mk2|
PM me if you would like a copy of the US Clausing version of the Bantam manual. It is useful on the nuts and bolts aspect of maintenance and adjustments.
This page gives info on the shear-pin mentioned by other posters.
|Thread: Lathe tools from Hacksaw blades|
There is an excellent little prog. available that you might find does what you want in saving info from the Forum or indeed anywhere else. Check out: (usual disclaimer, I just find it great)
It isnt freeware but does allow a free trial and then costs c.15 euro for a lifetime licence.
With it you can capture irregular, regular shapes. You can scroll from top to bottom of say a Forum page, then crop the ads.etc on all sides and save to a file or Word doc. You can save further pages to the same doc and so on. It copies videos from yoo-toob etc.also. etc, etc. One last thing about it is that it can grab pics/text even from sites that don't normally allow you to copy them.
The same site has a very useful Photo Resizer for free also.
Hope this helps
|Thread: Parting On a Hobby Lathe|
The above type of rear parting tool holder works well. The one in the pic. is from RDG (no connection),around £60, but there are many types out there. The blade takes GTN3 inserts. These curl the chip in from both sides so making it narrower than the groove being cut and helps prevent jams. Parting becomes a routine operation with this kind of setup. (And you'll notice a big saving on washing powder)
Use plenty cutting oil. Keep both sides of the cut wet. Provided you have plenty oil in the cut, I have found no difficulty in stopping the cut by backing off very slightly, if there is a need to brush away swarf that might build up and get drawn back into the cut. Spindle speeds up to about 250 rpms work ok, with a steady continuous feed into the cut. I prefer around 100rpm. As you come nearer the centre ease off the feed pressure BUT do keep it cutting, not rubbing.
Also, be positive when beginning the cut. It can sometimes take a good pressure to get the cutter to "bite".
Take any slop there might be out of gib strips and if you can, lock the apron down on the bed while parting off.
Make very sure the cutting tip is sharp and has no tiny chips out of it.
|Thread: colchester bantam|
Your lathe is probably similar to the above, but note the above has a metric leadscrew.
First, There are three different sets of gearing ie. N, P or Q as seen on the bottom left of the front cover. See above. These are set on the left end of the lathe.
Lets assume you want to cut a 1mm pitch thread. On the panel it shows that a 1mm thread can be cut using either the combination PS1 or NR3. Choose one of these and check that thats the gearing setup that is actually in place under the end cover on the left. Lets say you pick gears P. (as in PS1). Set the two appropriate levers on the gearbox front, ie. to S and the joystick to 1
Set Lever A to the required direction of cut. Engage the dog-clutch C. Use lever B to engage/disengage the half-nuts.
Use lever D (red knob) to drive the cutting tool to the left, and when the cut is finished withdraw the tool and use lever D to reverse the tool back to the start of the cut. (Leaving lever B and the half-nuts engaged).
Do not use the clutch lever on the front of the apron while screwcutting.
|Thread: A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year|
Let me add to the above and include all those who regularly, on the forum, give the benefit of their knowledge to beginners/ improvers.
A very happy Christmas to you all and many healthy years to enjoy in the future.
|Thread: Oops! Blunt a tool the easy way.|
Will need a bit of grinding there!
Can a carbide tool of similar shape to yours be got for a tangential tool? Would it work?
|Thread: ideas on dismantling bearings|
Definitely not trying to tell anyone about sucking eggs here but....
If I can't get the bearing apart but need to clean it, here is a simple method that I have found to be very much more effective than brushing with a solvent.
Hold the bearing,either on its own shaft or on a suitable short stub and to lay the bearing, side down, in a flat container. Fill the container with paraffin/white spirits etc. to above the top edge of the bearing. Then, hold the bearing just clear of the bottom and spin the bearing gently with your finger under the liquid. The dirt is spun out and falls away to the bottom of the container. Repeat till it runs smoothly. Turn over occasionally and spin the other way.
It can be quite surprising how much dirt/grit can come out. Because it is spinning in the liquid there's no danger much of damage but you can feel every tiny bit of grit in there until you get it all clear. Let the cleaning liquid settle, pour off the clear liquid and keep for the next cleaning job.
|Thread: Dovetail cutters|
Thanks, Neil and John.
The 60 deg. will do just fine as my first jobs will be making slides for a tool grinder along the lines of Harold Hall's design. HSS should do all my jobs as well.
With dovetail cutters being offered in 45deg. and 60deg. versions, I wonder if the more experienced members on the Forum have an opinion on which should be used in particular situations?
Are the carbide tipped cutters a better buy than the HSS ones on general offer?
|Thread: Milling Machine Trammel|
Thanks to all for the good advice.
Will, that's a good point you make about drilling. I hadn't thought of that before. Setting the spindle dead square with the table, if that can be achieved, should be best. If the leading edge is cutting and removing the material the trailing edge should in theory have nothing to rub against as it passes over the cut surface. Probably if there is slight flex in the setup anywhere, the cutting edge may not remove all of the material, leaving a small raised amount for the trailing edge to rub on. This, when you think, is a good argument for having very sharp cutting edges and trying to remove as much flex as possible out of the mill.
My own mill is an Amadeal 25 (like the WM18) and I am considering building a supporting beam of some sort, to dampen down the slight flex in the column. This is not a criticism of the mill. It will never be a threat to the Bridgeports but it's not bad and a little stiffening up couldn't hurt. I haven't seen a mod like this mentioned anywhere.
A learners question If I may?
Is it the recommendation to tram the head absolutely flat?
I seem to recollect reading that there might be advantage in setting it a gnat's whisker one way or the other.
If so, which way and why?
|Thread: Remember me|
Thanks folks for the replies.
Cookies have their uses on the sites you actually want to revisit. It is the third-party cookies that some sites send off to site you never asked to visit that are an invasion in many peoples eyes. I have given up on IE because even when you blocked the third-party cookies you often found that IE had activated them again in your settings. I have no such problems with Safari.
Re the Search engines, a lot of what is said above about Google being commercially driven is true. Wading through the pages to find the info you want can be tiresome. I still go back at times to Altavista when I fail in Google and often find what I want on their first page.
Thanks Dave, that could explain it. BUT I have left the site twice since the first posting and it has remembered me both times when I came back! Taking the Mick or what?
I use the same computer all the time so that not the reason. I do ramble off to other site certainly but they can't all be My Time Media!
Must be the moon as you say.
PS. I haven't seen anyone say it, but you're playing a blinder Neil, since you took over as Moderator!
Can anyone please explain the use of the "Remember me" function at the bottom of the Log In box.
I always tick the box but I still have to log in if I leave the site and then return to it. I am obviously missing something.
|Thread: Best way to mill a pocket in Al on a manual mill|
|Thread: Vintage motorbike|
I had the pleasure of visiting the Moto Guzzi museum in Mandello last month and seeing the 500cc V8 GP engine and bike in the flesh. What a gem of an engine! So small and compact. It is smaller than most 250cc. two stroke engines. I can only raise my hat to anyone who could build a scale version in their home workshop!
On a lighter note, as a Guzzi owner I was keen to find out how the Italians pronounced "Moto Guzzi" as you hear so many versions of it over here. They say Moto Gootzee, with the "t" being soft, ......and I suppose they should know!
My humble contribution to the universal store of knowledge for the day.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.