Here is a list of all the postings IRT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warco GH18 Milling Machine|
I have played with the spring tension before but it did not help.
I can't remember if I have tried adjusting backlash before, but I will try this tomorrow, and make a brass pin too.
I have only just changed the oil so will put up with it for now.
As it did not happen when the mill was new, and has slowly got worse, I was guessing it was muck that had got in there somehow.
Did you manage to identify the cause of the problem?
|Thread: Warco GH600|
Hi George, Sorry - Only just read your post and seen your PM. PM response sent with more detail, but in brief, I am still using the casters and have no intention of removing them.
|Thread: Warco GH18 Milling Machine|
How did the modifications go?
How easy is it to drop the quill out - and get it back in again?
I have the GH18 too, and have the same problem. It is getting worse with time.
My solution has been to fit a dro and only ever adjust the height when not over the workpiece.
It is a shame as this does spoil a mill that I am otherwise very happy with.
|Thread: Warco GH600|
Hello Brian, How are you?
Since my post I had a look through the 'manual'. I had forgotten how bad it is.
It does not detail where the fill and drain plugs are, or how much oil is required.
Before I do anything I will post some pictures to confirm what I think the plugs.
I will speak to Warco before I order the new oil from them, but in the meantime, do you know how much oil I will need?
I suppose an oil change is now long overdue.
Anything I need to watch out for, or is it fairly straight forward?
|Thread: Manson Engines ????|
Thanks for that info John.
Just got to find the asbestos and I can have a go at that one .
Why, for such a simple engine is there such little information available, and no plans available?
Another engine I have never heard of there - but according to Wikipedia, the Manson-Guise is an improved version of the Manson engine.
Whilst browsing Youtube the other day, I discovered something new to me called a Manson Engine.
I can see videos of a few different examples running, and some descriptions of operation, but I cannot understand how they run.
They do look intriguing though.
I also cannot find any plans anywhere. Do any exist?
Edited By IRT on 15/05/2021 11:42:43
|Thread: Finding a penknife|
Although you can buy them for a reasonable price (and for a small fortune too if you want), have you thought of making one? A single bladed folding knife makes an interesting project.
Edited By IRT on 29/04/2021 23:03:24
Edited By IRT on 29/04/2021 23:03:41
|Thread: Warco GH 18, bench top gear head mill fetteling|
I have had mine for about 18 months now. I was surprised when it arrived with a box on the back of it containing a VFD.
|Thread: Looking for a block of cast iron please|
I purchased a lump of cast iron from M-Machine last month for the same thing.
I can confirm - yes, it is very messy!
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
After thinking about it some more, the only way I could imagine that could happen was if the valve was being sucked in as the piston moved forward. I have extended the thread and screwed the valve back about 0.5mm more, and now the problem seems to have been resolved.
I have uploaded a video of it running in the same direction:
It does run, but exhibits a strange problem. It appears to stall after it has picked up speed. It then changes direction. I have uploaded a video showing this: https://youtu.be/BBFbckSVNSM.
Edited By IRT on 10/04/2021 22:45:00
|Thread: Warco GH18 Mill with VFD, Wiring Diagrams|
I have one. I seem to flex the cables every time I move the head up or down, or move the control box.
In time, I am sure this will pull something out, and this will be very useful. Thanks.
|Thread: Finish for wooden base|
Hi MC. Thanks for the offer. I have some buffing wheels that I use for wood turning.
In the past I have made some tables out of ash and finished them in Danish oil then wax. Initially they looked very good, but over time they have yellowed.
I have not used Osmo Poly-X before. Does it soak in then dry like Danish oil? Does it yellow in the sun?
I have found a small bottle of walnut oil. I will test this on a bit of scrap to see what it looks like.
I take your point Jason about originals not having a fine finish, but for this I am trying to make something that looks nice rather than replicating a vintage engine. (If I can I achieve that is yet to be seen though).
Someone once told me that when he made dolls houses, he always used matt paint, as gloss does not look right on small scale. Are there any rules like this relating to models?
I am making a stationary engine, and the plans call for a wooden base.
I am thinking of using dark walnut.
I need to consider the best finish. French polish would have been my first choice, but it can be ruled out as the alcohol used for fuel will melt it if spilled.
Maybe Danish oil and wax would be suitable? Very easy to apply, but I not sure this is the right look.
I have used melamine lacquer before, but when polished it looks a little plastic. I see that acrylic lacquer also exists. I have never used this before and do not know the pros/cons of this when compared with melamine.
What finishes are people using for their wooden bases?
Does a high gloss finish or matt look better on a model?
|Thread: To oil or not to oil|
I have been using CT-90 when turning steel.
I have been having minor intermittent problems with breathing which I had put down to an allergy to something.
Yesterday I was taking quite aggressive cuts in stainless steel that generated a lot of smoke.
Walking the dog later, my breathing again tightened and I developed a cough that went on all night.
Looking at the data sheet for CT90, there is no great emphasis on risk from fumes although it does mention adequate ventilation.
Does anyone else suffer this sore of reaction to cutting oil fumes?
Maybe this is something else that should be taken into account when deciding if cutting oil is to be used?
|Thread: Recommendation for next project|
I think I have answered my own question today.
In earlier posts I mentioned my previous disaster with stainless steel.
Writing this made me wonder. This was 5 years ago with a mini lathe. I have learnt a bit since then.
I pulled the same part out of the bits bin today and tried again. Now I am using a larger lathe and a carbide insert boring bar.
Running at the right speed, and taking aggressive cuts; once I got through the hard bit, the steel cut like butter, with a really good finish.
I think I will re-kindle this flame licker - Jan Ridders' internal valve.
I will then look at the suggestions above for the next project once this is finished.
Thanks very much.
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