|Thread: Direct morse taper collets|
Posted by Derek Greenhalgh on 17/04/2020 12:33:09
After doing a search for some info on using morse taper collets instead of ER, 5c etc. nothing turned up.
when i bought my milling machine i was given a boxed collet chuck set as discount, Its an M3 chuck with M12 thread for the draw bar and has 8 collets in the set but no other collets available for the set to buy apart. I think the biggest collet is 14mm.
As I have a lathe as well as the mill I can use it there too using a M4-M3 reduction but I'm still limited to size of material I can use due to collet size.
Looking round for something a bit bigger like ER32 or ER40 i came across the direct morse taper collets that would greatly help with the limited hight available on a small benchtop mill.
Does anyone use them?, pros & cons? what is the largest collet size for Mt3? On ARC the biggest is 18mm is this the upper limit?
I'm debating weather or not to go for them over a Er32 or Er40 collet chuck set and maybe a bolt on chuck for my lathe, I think the er40 would give me a far greater material range but I lose a lot of hight. Thoughts appreciated. thanks
The MT3 collet chuck with 8 collets is SOP for a mill.
Its not the same as for a lathe where the collet holds material.
On a mill the collet purely holds the cutting tool, ie end mill, slot drill whatever.
You have 4 common metric and 4 common imperial sizes for the most common shank sizes.
Don't over think things. Use what you have, its all good.
|Thread: Finish Good then Bad cl300|
HSS needs less power to cut than carbide on our moderately powered machines.
Just look at a sharp HSS tool as opposed to your average radius replaceable tipped carbide tool.
Moving onto 7.5hp Monarchs, all bets are off.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
Posted by John MC on 14/04/2020 16:42:47
I had forgotten about the Himalayan, bit of a disaster that one and a good example of an overweight motorcycle, I stand corrected.
I'm told there is a European company making big bore conversions for the twin (and Himalayan), RE are sure to know about. Still think 650 to 850 is a step to far.
The "problem" if it can be called that, with the early Hinckley Triumphs was that the engines were designed by guys whose experience was with car engines. They did not realise just how compact a motorcycle engine is and it showed. They soon realised and set about correcting along with the mechanical noise problem. The overbuilt reputation was probably nurtured to cover this up.
On the subject of weight saving and the new unitised RE Bullet engine. The RE stylists decided to take their styling Cues from an existing popular brand of motorcycle. In doing this the cylinder head gained some 1.5kg in weight just to make it look like they wanted. Other parts suffered the same. Attempts were made to dissuade them from doing this. Unsuccessfully as it turns out.
The Himalayan has been a huge (read HUGE) sales success for RE. Worldwide. Especially in Australia, and of all places, America.
Yes it is 40 kgs heavier than a CRF250L, but they are really different genres. Its become a bit of a cult RTW long distance travel bike. See Noraly's (YT Itchy Boots) first bike took her 35k kms RTW..
The big bore kit for the twins (860cc) is American.
The big bore kit for the Himalayan (411 to 462cc) is British, by Hitchcocks.
Posted by John MC on 16/04/2020 16:27:51
Apples and oranges, really? Just because the Re is a mid-range motorcycle of relatively modest performance doesn't mean its OK to ignore weight. The RE is over weight, not massively so, a bit like me really, could do with losing a bit! I really hope that RE refine the design, get a good few kilo's off it but leave the engines performance alone, that would be a nice motorcycle.
You cannot compare 675/765 Speed Triples to a RE retro Interceptor built down to a price.
The reason they are selling is because they are a half decent product and are CHEAP.
Apples And Oranges.
Posted by John MC on 15/04/2020 16:51:14
As for acceptable weight, a good bench mark I believe is the Meriden Triumph T140 (750) ~50bhp, 194Kg with some fluids. Series 2 (British) Interceptor slightly lighter. No balance shaft, electric start and other modern features. Technology moves on and it would be reasonable to expect a modern 50bhp bike to weigh very similar.
So the RE at 208 kg kerbside with E/S, balance shaft, fuel injection, catalytic converters , ABS , meeting much stricter regulatory requirements & built to a very keen price is only 14kg heavier than your optimum ? Doesn't seem enough to qualify as very overweight ?
Triumph street triple, 675cc, double the power of the above, plenty of modern features, 175Kg ready to ride.
Not on my radar, I'm afraid. Too revvy & typically "modern" lack of style and practicality for me. It's competition Yamaha 900 triple likewise - more power than I feel I need coupled to a "sod what it looks like, it's all about the (dry weather) ride" approach to styling & functionality. I reckoned for a long time that I would cheerfully sacrifice 20hp I could not use on the road for 20mpg better economy - my last 3 modern middleweights (Moto Guzzi Breva 750, Honda NC750S & the RE) have done that just fine.
If Triumph can build a 675cc 100+bhp bike that meets all the regulatory requirements and has all the features motorcyclist demand in a modern motorcycle that weighs 33Kg ( 72lbs) less then the RE is somewhat overweight. KTM Duke similar spec to the Triumph also reinforces my point. Even an MT-09 Yamaha is lighter.
And the BMW's S1000 makes 4 time the power of the RE and is a few Kg lighter.
You may well think they are "revvy" engines, yes they are but thanks to electronics they also have good bottom and mid-range "grunt".
If the RE could shed 25 - 30Kg then it would be an excellent motorcycle.
If it wasn't for C-19 crisis one of the above would be in my garage now , had a test ride booked on a KTM the day after the lock down restrictions were imposed on us. Also considering a 1960's Norton, soon as we can travel I'm going to have a look.
Apples and Oranges.
Posted by Hopper on 13/04/2020 11:35:38
I get 20,000 miles out of an X-ring chain and sprockets on my 105hp Honda VFR800. I'm pretty happy with that. And it almost never needs adjusting after bed-in.
The rubber belt drive on my Harley seems to last forever but only about 70 ponies going through that.
But RE could have put the primary chain on the left and the rear chain on the right so the more shapely engine cam timing cover was on the right in the conventional manner. Plenty of bikes do that including Harley Sportster from 1957 to present and the old 1942 WLA military Harley too.
Edited By Hopper on 13/04/2020 11:39:54
Thank you. I rest my case.
Also the Hinkley Triumph twins (air and water cooled) would look downright ridiculous with their covers swapped over, and they manage modern gearbox/clutch/final drive design, but still have a vague look/lineage back to the first of the twins from 1936.
Its a shame that virtually all modern parallel twins have gone for this 270 degree crank fashion, basically making the motor feel and sound like a 90 degree v twin...
... except.... IMHO, the most authentic of all the current retros...
the Kawasaki W800.
Long stroke crank. Check, Triumph, RE short stroke
360 degree crank. Check. Triumph RE 270.
Screw and locknut valve clearances, no bucket under shims. Check.
No OHC chain or DOHC chain. Check - bevel drive!
Covid 19 has brought this thread alive!
Some great posts in the last 3 pages and i concur with most.
Stay safe, stay healthy out there.
Posted by mgnbuk on 11/04/2020 11:09:02
Motorycling - Easter 2020 style
Nice sunny Good Friday, so out with the bike !
Remove security & dust cover - move bike to drive.
Wash down to remove storage dust that the cover didn't totally keep off.
Apply AutoGlym Enhanced Gloss Protection to all painted sufaces - wait as instructed, then buff off.
Polish all chrome & polished alloy bits with Meguires NXT metal polish.
Clean all black plastic bits with AutoGlym Black Trim cleaner.
After 7 hours of hard cleaning & polishing, admire bike before returning to garage, replace security & dust cover.
Go back in to house & sulk !
Much as i sorta dig the new Enfield twins, i have never understood why the engineers designed this motor 180 degrees out.
It would have been easy, and so much easier on the eye to reverse the motor details on the bottom end.
So to have the "timing" and "primary" covers on the right and historically correct side.
IMO it just looks so wrong.
Anybody not familiar with what i'm on about just has to look at any Brit parallel twin, but especially the original Royal Enfield Meteors, Constellations and Interceptors. Marvelous engines visually.
Thanx, i rest my case.
Posted by Gerard O'Toole on 11/04/2020 12:45:53
Just wondering if anyone has knowledge of the Lucas advance retard units fitted to coil ignition motorcycles in the 60's?
My unit, on a 1064 AJS needs a lot of repair. I cannot see a replacement for the AJS but I see units advertised as for BSA/Triumph etc. I wonder if the unit was a generic Lucas unit fitted to many bikes or of they are all slightly different?. Photos do show unit similar to mine but no dimensions are given
Try and upgrade to the later 6CA type, much much more reliable, otherwise convert to a generic electronic ignition.
If you insist on repairing the early points/AA ignitions, be aware some twins ran anti clock and others clockwise.
|Thread: Which Lathe???|
You only move once. Or twice.
Its not like you are moving on a weekly or monthly basis.
Concur with the above, the Chipmaster is a wonderful lathe, and again not much bigger a footprint than a Super 7.
If you are happy to spend 3k i'd be looking at nice, fully tooled Colchester Students, Bantams, Harrison L series or M 250/300 series.
The above are not much bigger a footprint than a Myford and are 10 times the lathe, nay scrub that, 50 times the lathe.
If you put in the search function on Ebay or an ad on Tony's Lathes site, a nice fully tooled A series Boxford can be had for 1500 quid.
They are out there, you've just got to find them.
I'd want my head examining paying 3k for a Super 7, when a generic Chinese 12/24 - 12/36 can be had fully tooled for a grand less.Most of these 6" CH Chinese lathes are copies of the Harrison M series. Camlock spindles, induction hardened beds etc etc etc.
Posted by Paul Smith 37 on 05/04/2020 22:31:35
Im looking into the Boxford box lathes, they maybe very efficient in what they do, which is of course the primary goal, but lack the charisma of a myford super 7 style lathe. Or Is it me just being a tart?
Yes, you are just being a tart.
Now where did i put those fishnets and stilletos?
A happy Boxford camper.
Well put together website. Well done.
|Thread: clarkson autolock 3mt|
Yes external 40int, internal 3 MT adaptors.
I have a 30int external to 2 MT internal adaptor for the M1.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2020|
Posted by John MC on 05/04/2020 16:44:09
Magnesium and Aluminium look similar and melt at about the same temperature (650C vs 660C). The easiest way to tell them apart is to measure their density; Magnesium at 2.7g per cc is heavier than Aluminium at 1.7g per cc.
You have that the wrong way around, Mg is lighter than Al.
|Thread: Boring tool|
Isn't there something similar available from Hemingway Kits?
|Thread: Box-Ford travelling steady|
1969 VSL here - 3/8 BSW.
|Thread: Is this guy nuts, or sensible.|
Reminded me to finally subscribe to his channel. Along with the other 9 odd million.
And its had nearly 9 million views in 3 days.
And 18,000 comments.
That is serious You Tube money and fame.
IMHO, the guy deserves every penny and every round of applause.
He's a grown up kid with a child's attitude to the world, very clever, and a lot of us would like to be him.
|Thread: shopmade tool cutter grinder attachment|
Like button pressed...
|Thread: Tom Senior light X Axis power feed|
Posted by JasonB on 27/03/2020 08:23:34
You are likely to suffer chatter and vibration that will limit what you can cut with MT2 and get a poor cut long before it breaks. The vibration may also cause the taper to loosen by vibrating the drawbar loose which can lead to using a bit of pole on the drawbar spanner to cure and excess hammering of the drawbar to realease the taper to change tools
Your column may be more rigid that a far eastern machine of a similar size but look at the surface area of the joint between head and column, maybe 4 times that of the shaft that your head is supported on and with less overhang
Edited By JasonB on 27/03/2020 08:33:25
Never ever had a MT2 come loose on my TS quill feed head.
Never overly tightened drawbar either, just a 1/4 turn nip up.
Never had a MT shank stuck that i needed to beat on it.
All the 2MT horror stories of the past have been prolly due to years of storage or previous owners hamfistedness and lack of feel or empathy.
Posted by not done it yet on 25/03/2020 08:55:51
My comment is that if you want/need a mill with (seemingly) twice the power, then get a bigger miil.
Cleverer fellows than you designed this mill to use that 1/2HP sized drive. Doubling it should require more than simply changing the motor. I/m rather assuming, here that your aim is to install a 1HP motor? 3/4Hp is possibly too much.
Why a brass ring? Aluminium or steel would be cheaper. Even plastic. Could drill identical holes at 180 degrees and fit one ‘dummy’ opposite the real one. Or what is the difference in density of the magnet and the pulley? Assuming here the pulley is not a pressed steel item. Fitting two identical magnets, opposite to one another, would likely suffice.
Edited By not done it yet on 25/03/2020 08:59:36
The quill feed TS head that the OP has was only ever designed and fitted with a 1/2 hp motor.
I have one on my M1. I don't baby any of my machines, and mine is the original TS 3 phase 1/2 hp motor running thru an inverter, and i have never had a problem thinking mmm, i need double the power. And it has regularly drilled 1.250 holes in alloy with a 3MT drill with a 3-2 reducer, not what it was designed to do, but happily does it. I have a 5" flycutter on a 2MT shank - lovely finish. Assortment of end mills, slot drills and slitting saws all work.
Don't baby it, but also work within the parameters of what the machine is telling you.
Re power feed- yeah that would be my first mod on any mill without it.