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Member postings for thaiguzzi

Here is a list of all the postings thaiguzzi has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Collet Chuck or not ?
26/03/2019 09:41:50
Posted by Hopper on 26/03/2019 07:21:54:

I hold milling cutters up to 25mm diameter in the 80-year-old three-jaw chuck on my ancient Drummond M-Type (The Flagellator) without problem. Haven't had one slip on me yet, including milling 1" thick steel plate etc. A 16mm diameter end mill cutter seems to work best without too much "chunking" that you can get with the bigger cutters. Smaller cutters are a doddle.

So no need to buy ER collets for milling in the lathe. Give it a try with your 3-jaw first.

The 32 in ER32 refers to the nominal outside diameter of the removable tapered collet. The collets are available in a range of inside diameters to suit the size of bar/cutter you wish to hold. An ER32 collet set will hold up to about 20mm bar/cutter, whereas an ER20 collet set will hold up to 13mm bar/cutter. Sets are usually in increments of 1mm.

Blimey Hopper!

First time i have had to disagree with you...

Thread: Boxford 8" Shaper Problem
25/03/2019 09:45:11
june - nov 2014 085.jpgPosted by Nick Taylor 2 on 24/03/2019 08:10:34:

Next? You haven’t shown us this 100thou cut yet. By all means take your time to find the softest material you have.

Er, i don't have to prove anything to you.

If you are unable to grind a tool for your machine to use it to it's full capabilities, it is not my fault.

As for soft materials, try delrin & brass next time, you should get a 4-5mm DOC.

Below is some real nasty stuff, flame cut, no-name steel, DOC was in the region of a minimum 60 thou (1.5mm in new money) i seem to remember.

2 blocks together to make 10 QCTP holders.

Next pic is the shear tool in use on the same material.

Have a nice day.

Edit; pics ar$e about tit, apologies.

OP, i like to use min ie low feed rates (1 click pref to 2 on the ratchet wheel) but make up for it with (supposedly unbelievable) DOC's. Try slow feed, bigger bite.

june - nov 2014 078.jpg

Edited By thaiguzzi on 25/03/2019 09:50:27

24/03/2019 06:22:43
Posted by Nick Taylor 2 on 23/03/2019 16:31:31:

Would like to see 100 thou in mild steel as well, well with a tool that was not so sharp that it blunts in a few passes... and with a finish that was worth the effort!

I had a similar problem with my Boxford, the adjustment nut felt tight but would slip easily under load. I found that if I rocked the crank handle back and forward say 1/8 of a turn as I tightened the nut it would tighten properly and hold correctly. I’ve stripped the machine down for other reasons (bearings) since then and saw nothing obviously out of order with the threads etc. I assume it’s an alignment problem, maybe some wear in the ID of the block.

If i'm roughing out 2mm DOC i aint bothered about surface finish.

Blunt tools are virtually unheard of in the TG shaper household.

And i can put a 2 thou DOC on a block of steel with a shear tool that would make a surface grinder blush.

Next?

Edit;

re the OP, are you tightening when the machine is in the correct position, ie the external feed adj wheel has marks on it that line up?

Edited By thaiguzzi on 24/03/2019 06:24:10

23/03/2019 15:51:37

Not at all.

I have the same machine, and can hog 80 - 100 thou (2 - 2.5 mm in new money) no probs in steel.

The stroke problem certainly needs investigating further, i never need to hoik hard on mine to lock up adjustment.

I presume you are on the slowest of the 4 speeds?

Thread: Mystery Starrett vice
20/03/2019 04:15:40
Posted by Jamie Wood on 19/03/2019 20:23:22:

I bought this vice on ebay, originally thinking it was bigger than it actually is. It's stamped LS Starrett but doesn't appear to have a number anywhere on it, and having been through an old catalogue and many pages of google images I still can't find any info on it. It looks like it could be a miniature version of the toolmakers clamps but wondered if anyone had seen one before? Body is approx 2" x 1/2".

Jamie

starrett2.jpgstarrett1.jpg

I have the exact same model.

Ground vee underneath?

Can't remember where i got it from and i doubt i've used it in the last 20 odd years.

Pretty though. Innit.

Thread: Toolroom lathe?
19/03/2019 05:02:07
Posted by Andy Carruthers on 18/03/2019 10:30:33:

This is not another "which lathe should I buy thread" as I have narrowed down my "want" list - simply asking whether there is any benefit to acquiring what is advertised as a toolroom lathe as opposed to any other lathe

For example - Smart & Brown and recent advert for Gromatic spring to mind, can anyone explain why a toolroom lathe would be a better (ha - define "better" purchase than a similar size Boxford / Harrison / Colchester

Some context may be helpful, I have a Warco WM180, a great lathe to learn on and in truth I haven't explored all possibilities, and my feeling is I want something with greater than 12" between centres with separate screw cutting lead screw. As mentioned in a previous thread, the lack of a screw cutting gearbox doesn't help either, an in truth, I had to start somewhere and the WM180 was available at a fair price. I don't have a project or specific use in mind for the lathe, just a hankering for something a little larger (up to 36" between centres) and more capable as I'm probably now "borderline competent"

Thought please

Weight. Weight. And weight.

If you and your floor can handle moving a heavy lathe, buy the heaviest lathe you can get.

A footprint of a Myford, Boxford, Colchester Bantam, Harrison L5 is not that different.

Ditto a S&B 1024.

The differences in operation if all the above are in similar condition is remarkable.

Especially comparing the lightest, a Myford, to the heaviest, the Smart & Brown.

Thread: Why do both power hacksaws and bandsaws exist?
18/03/2019 04:38:10
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 17/03/2019 16:03:36:

Extended blade life is an important advantage of bandsaws compared with hacksaws:

  1. Bandsaw blades have more teeth than a hacksaw and all teeth work equally. In contrast, hacksaw teeth wear tend to badly in the middle of the blade and very little at the ends. Quite wasteful.
  2. Bandsaw teeth have far more opportunity to cool down after they've taken a cut. In consequence they resist wear for longer.
  3. Hacksaw teeth are pulled backwards over the work after each cutting stroke, which tends to blunt the teeth, and keeps them unnecessarily warm. Bandsaw teeth only move in the one cutting direction.

A power hacksaw has some advantages. Apart from the machines slightly smaller footprint, hacksaw blades are standard workshop items and rather cheaper than bandsaw blades. Hacksaw blades are also much easier to change, which is handy when a larger or small tooth per inch would suit a particular job. Blades can be swapped quickly to match different metals (brass vs steel) or profiles (pipe vs solid.)

Dave

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 17/03/2019 16:05:35

1. Most power hacksaws LIFT the blade on the return stroke.

In fact all the ones i've come across do.

2. Have you seen the price of current power hacksaw blades? Cheap they are not. And certainly not to be confused with a std hand held hacksaw blades.

Thread: Steel identification
18/03/2019 04:10:45
Posted by JasonB on 16/03/2019 16:51:27:

Parker Steel is the one I usually look at for colours

There are spark tests but don't know how closely you could tie it down by that method.

Thanx for that. Lost mine years ago.

Downloaded for future reference..

Thread: Why do both power hacksaws and bandsaws exist?
17/03/2019 05:22:04
Posted by choochoo_baloo on 17/03/2019 00:44:36:

Is there any advantage to either for e.g. parallelism of the cut? I've read posts where owners of the ubiquitous 6x4 bandsaw have spent ages tweaking theirs to obtain a parallel cut.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 17/03/2019 00:44:56

Yeah, that's because a generic Chinese 6x4 is the bottom of the barrel. You do not get these problems with industrial/professional grade bandsaws not made down to a price.

I have a power hacksaw, pre war Denbigh, i have a shaper.

If i had the space and money no object i would sell the donkey saw and replace with a nice bandsaw - far more efficient.

However, the shaper will never be sold.......... far too useful. And fun to use.........

17/03/2019 05:18:42
Posted by Plasma on 16/03/2019 22:48:51:

I guess it's a bit like why the shaper became less used, one stroke of a reciprocating machine is just a waste of energy. Returning the blade or cutting tool to its start position wastes time which in a production environment costs money.

A band saw cuts continuously, no wasted effort or time. The steel firm I use has bandsaws that cut huge steel bars so capacity is not an issue.

I use a power hacksaw as i can afford a cuppa as it cuts, blades are cheaper and easier to change.

I also have a shaper which takes it's time but produces a surface finish far better than either of my milling machines.

+1. Wot he said.

Thread: Machine tool suppliers
15/03/2019 10:00:19
Posted by Chris Trice on 15/03/2019 09:47:36:

+1 for Chris and Steve at HWM.

+2.

Great help supplying me with my Tom Senior M1, c/w quill feed head, tatty and hence an excellent price, delivered to my shippers in Wales before being sent out here on a pallet in a container.

Thread: Soba rotary table
13/03/2019 15:03:26

I bought my HV6 Vertex new in the early 90's. It was worked hard in a professional shop until 2003 when i retired it to hobby use along with myself.

So that's well over 25 y/o.

I still have all the paperwork, instruction manual, and factory inspection data.

I also have period early 90's Vertex product brochures.

It was most definetely made in Taiwan.

Thread: Is a hand chamfer worthwhile?
12/03/2019 04:59:08

Noga.

But i also have a dedicated tool holder with HSS at each end set at the same height (top rake) for internal & external chamfering only.

Makes a better job of it and but a couple of seconds to change toolholders.

Thread: New Toy
10/03/2019 13:49:01
Posted by Mick Henshall on 10/03/2019 11:05:41:

Looks lovely, what is it ?

Mick🇬🇧

I think it's a shower cubicle.....

Thread: Bench Grinder
26/02/2019 04:38:42

+1 for Creusen.

Mine came from the factory as converted to polishing spindle on the R/H side, and 2" belt linisher on the left.

Superb bit of kit, purchased new in 2003 - and used a lot!

My bench grinder is an ex school, 8" Wolfe, c/w key to lock the electrics! Must of owned it nearly 30 years - again superb kit.

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
25/02/2019 03:57:12
Posted by Brian H on 24/02/2019 18:22:05:
Posted by Brian H on 24/02/2019 07:35:54:

Spent nearly an hour setting up some 0.016 brass to drill a line of 1/32 holes and then found that the drill didn't reach the metal!

Oh well, I'll try again today.

Brian

It's now tomorrow and I've managed the setup. Drilled about 200 holes, spaced using my DRO, without breaking a drill!

I've just caught the drill on the sleeve of my jumper and broken it!

Brian

LOL 2.0

I'm not alone in faffing up...

25/02/2019 03:56:33
Posted by Brian H on 24/02/2019 07:35:54:

Spent nearly an hour setting up some 0.016 brass to drill a line of 1/32 holes and then found that the drill didn't reach the metal!

Oh well, I'll try again today.

Brian

LO 1.0

Thread: Hemingway Dynamic Toolpost Grinder
23/02/2019 15:25:16

Now thats what i call a photo essay.

Thoroughly interesting, and well described and photographed..

Kudos!

Thread: New coffee maker - disgusting taste!
15/02/2019 14:11:47
Posted by mark costello 1 on 14/02/2019 18:01:46:

At the risk of a public flogging, I have a question from across the pond. The only Tea I have experience with is Lipton, is that anything remotely like what You Chaps drinkg?

Noooooooooooo!!!

Now go and wash your mouth out with some cold Yellow Label Liptons.

Ughhhh.

Thread: Filling defects in slideways
13/02/2019 05:10:33

IMHO, stone the high spots, and leave the low spots. Call it oil retention areas....

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