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Member postings for thaiguzzi

Here is a list of all the postings thaiguzzi has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What are you using for Lathe Way Oil?
02/06/2019 15:03:48

ISO 68 hydraulic oil from auto factors, designed for tractor rear axles and gearboxes.

6 quid for 5 litres.

Thread: "The Unique"
31/05/2019 05:59:44
Posted by Hopper on 31/05/2019 01:29:37:

Harley-Davidson sold a similar - but even cruder - tool for truing up flywheel crankshaft assemblies in vintage days. Countless thousands of cranks must have been set up within the specified total runout of .001" or less using them, so they must work better than they look.

crank truing 1.jpg

Used in a truing stand with the small right-angle tang rubbing on the crank mainshaft, so the long end of the pointer amplifies the movement to a readable level. Crude but effective!

crank truing 2.jpg

The Unique looks downright sophisticated by comparison. I also vaguely remember seeing gauges like the Unique with with a small finger like a DTI sticking out the end rather than the button, and the body was made of brass with fine graduations on it. Can't remember where though. Some machine shop in a previous millenium!

Edited By Hopper on 31/05/2019 01:34:58

Hi Hopper,

i thought most of those HD type truing stands just used centres, but in that pic of yours above, it has small rollers or bearings adjacent.

What gives?

Thread: Boxford AUD needing a new Motor
30/05/2019 05:01:04

Double check rpm on the original motor.

A/B/C's prolly a common number, but the VSL's ran an unusual 960 rpm motor.

Thread: Do you wear a mask grinding HSS tool bits?
29/05/2019 11:02:56
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 28/05/2019 15:13:00:
Posted by thaiguzzi on 28/05/2019 11:07:57:


What bit don't you understand and I'll try and explain?


Fine if you have carbide milling cutters - i don't. All my milling cutters are HSS.

A linisher with an Al/Ox belt as i said earlier will do the job faster and cheaper than a mill & having to buy carbide.

Getting to the exact stuff, once finished, use the T&CG.

28/05/2019 11:07:57
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 28/05/2019 10:22:59:

If you've got a lot of metal to remove from a HSS blank it's quicker and easier to mill it first, then use the grinder to touch up and add the relief angles.



I'll stick to my Al/Ox belt linisher for roughing out 5/8 and 3/4" sq HSS blanks thank you...

Re the OP, no.

Thread: Omnimill 00
27/05/2019 14:40:34

Lovely machines, always liked them.

Nice resto, kudos.

Only thing that put me off them is the lack of fine feed on the quill.

Regards, happy M1 Senior owner with the quill feed vertical head.

Edited By thaiguzzi on 27/05/2019 14:40:56

Thread: stamford show vandals
21/05/2019 03:26:27
Posted by Speedy Builder5 on 20/05/2019 15:09:12:

Thaiguzzi. De-forrestation, Palm oil plantations ....... its all vandalism.


Er, thats governments, corporations and corruption. In SE Asia.

I was talking about vandalism in Britain.

Like for example, when i lived there, my 10 y/o non descript 1500 quid Merc parked outside my 2 bedroomed terraced house on the street had it's Star motif snapped off 3 times and keyed once. Meanwhile a newer 4 grand non descript Ford or Vauxhall was never touched.

Ditto my Moto Guzzi - keyed tank.

Why is their a class thing that exists in the UK that likes to damage stuff that they "presume" belongs to somebody posher?

Ditto, outdoor keep fit stuff for adults, playground stuff for kids, if it's not nailed down it's nicked, if it is nailed down, it's vandalized.

This stuff does not happen in Europe.

By the way i drove that beloved manual Merc in my oily greasy overalls to & fro from work.

20/05/2019 14:47:02

I have travelled the world and spent considerable time in most European countries excluding Skandinavia.

IMHO, wanton vandalism ie destruction of actual property rather than graffitti etc is pretty much a unique British thing.

I have not seen mindless violence/property destruction on a remotely similar scale anywhere in Western Europe.

Another British disease?

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
16/05/2019 04:43:28
Posted by Windy on 01/12/2018 12:03:21:
Posted by thaiguzzi

Very nice.

I presume alignment is on the top portion with the knife edges, and the balancing done below on the 2 pairs of brgs?

Many years ago, we did static balancing on our knife edges too.

Bob R - lovely work on the pre unit single.

The bearings are mainly for aligning the pressed up crankshaft similar to a Alpha-Tru aligner the straight edges for balancing.

alpha tru


If anybody sees or hears of one of these for sale, please pm me.

Mucho appreciated.

16/05/2019 04:41:14
Posted by Windy on 15/05/2019 16:46:50:

Had a very interesting time over the last few days there was a 3 day speed meeting at Elvington.

Saturday I did not go but told Andy and Helen who were camped out if any competitor broke down and if I could help I would.

Had a phone call from Mick his wife is the fastest women motorcyclist in this country 264 mph a friend was having problems with his new creation a drag racing machine.

A drive bearing had moved and looked like the chain had worn a groove in its OD 50mm bore x 80 od.

I made a spacer fortunately I had some steel of that size while doing that Will the rider and his girl friend who had just flown in from California for a few days removed the damaged bearing.

Sunday on this machines second outing did around 140mph then Monday upped it to 151 mph his fastest yet.

There were some handling problems mainly when reduced acceleration and the large drag racing tyre caused gyroscopic effects if machine is not vertical on setting off.

All the controls brakes, clutch and gear change are operated from the handlebars they are what is used on disabled riders motorcycles.

A simple repair meant his 3 days was not aborted.

Guy Martin was also testing his motorcycle on Sunday it looked like his Pikes Peak machine.

A litttle repair

All hand controls

my repair

Guy Martin

Like button pressed.

Thread: Vanco linisher
14/05/2019 05:37:43

I have a Creusen linisher, ie not cheap and very well made. I had a large stock of brand name belts purchased when i moved out here to TH in 2003. 10-12 years later all of them had the same problem you describe.

No matter what i tried, stapling, superglue, hot glue under a press, nothing worked.

So i have a lot of stock of thick backed al/ox strips for hand held use.

Purchased a new batch last year, and hey presto, perfect belts, perfect linishing.

Buy new.

13/05/2019 14:53:29
Posted by Steve King 5 on 05/05/2019 11:32:15:

Thanks lads some good advice for me as a beginner to follow. I'll keep you all updated on my progress and as I take on more challenging projects. Once iv become I little more confident and my skills improve I'll be making tool holder for my QCTP. Iv got a big old lump of cast iron to practice on. Oh I need to grind up a shear tool for finishing cuts. If any one can post some pictures of the shear tools you are using that would be great.



Edited By Steve King 5 on 05/05/2019 11:33:36

june - nov 2014 085.jpg

Bit late to the playroom,

my shear tools are as shown in the American books and google images, with a curved face. Will try and get a pic up.

Thread: Impressive Workshop in Germany
13/05/2019 14:48:03
Posted by ChrisB on 19/04/2019 20:42:16:

Organized shops and going around in socks and sandals must be a German thing!

One of the better and most talented YT machinists.

Thread: Upside down reverse threading
13/05/2019 05:00:19
Posted by not done it yet on 12/05/2019 08:57:01:
Posted by Nick Hughes on 11/05/2019 16:49:10:

No problem with the Myford screwed on chuck when I did it:-


Edited By Nick Hughes on 11/05/2019 16:50:29

Yes, that was clearly so - but would you accept the blame when someone ends up with his chuck on his/her toes?

Not at screwcutting speeds.

Screwcutting on my Boxford in reverse @ 50 rpm and a low DOC is not going to unscrew a chuck.

Thread: Collet Chuck or not ?
26/03/2019 09:41:50
Posted by Hopper on 26/03/2019 07:21:54:

I hold milling cutters up to 25mm diameter in the 80-year-old three-jaw chuck on my ancient Drummond M-Type (The Flagellator) without problem. Haven't had one slip on me yet, including milling 1" thick steel plate etc. A 16mm diameter end mill cutter seems to work best without too much "chunking" that you can get with the bigger cutters. Smaller cutters are a doddle.

So no need to buy ER collets for milling in the lathe. Give it a try with your 3-jaw first.

The 32 in ER32 refers to the nominal outside diameter of the removable tapered collet. The collets are available in a range of inside diameters to suit the size of bar/cutter you wish to hold. An ER32 collet set will hold up to about 20mm bar/cutter, whereas an ER20 collet set will hold up to 13mm bar/cutter. Sets are usually in increments of 1mm.

Blimey Hopper!

First time i have had to disagree with you...

Thread: Boxford 8" Shaper Problem
25/03/2019 09:45:11
june - nov 2014 085.jpgPosted by Nick Taylor 2 on 24/03/2019 08:10:34:

Next? You haven’t shown us this 100thou cut yet. By all means take your time to find the softest material you have.

Er, i don't have to prove anything to you.

If you are unable to grind a tool for your machine to use it to it's full capabilities, it is not my fault.

As for soft materials, try delrin & brass next time, you should get a 4-5mm DOC.

Below is some real nasty stuff, flame cut, no-name steel, DOC was in the region of a minimum 60 thou (1.5mm in new money) i seem to remember.

2 blocks together to make 10 QCTP holders.

Next pic is the shear tool in use on the same material.

Have a nice day.

Edit; pics ar$e about tit, apologies.

OP, i like to use min ie low feed rates (1 click pref to 2 on the ratchet wheel) but make up for it with (supposedly unbelievable) DOC's. Try slow feed, bigger bite.

june - nov 2014 078.jpg

Edited By thaiguzzi on 25/03/2019 09:50:27

24/03/2019 06:22:43
Posted by Nick Taylor 2 on 23/03/2019 16:31:31:

Would like to see 100 thou in mild steel as well, well with a tool that was not so sharp that it blunts in a few passes... and with a finish that was worth the effort!

I had a similar problem with my Boxford, the adjustment nut felt tight but would slip easily under load. I found that if I rocked the crank handle back and forward say 1/8 of a turn as I tightened the nut it would tighten properly and hold correctly. I’ve stripped the machine down for other reasons (bearings) since then and saw nothing obviously out of order with the threads etc. I assume it’s an alignment problem, maybe some wear in the ID of the block.

If i'm roughing out 2mm DOC i aint bothered about surface finish.

Blunt tools are virtually unheard of in the TG shaper household.

And i can put a 2 thou DOC on a block of steel with a shear tool that would make a surface grinder blush.



re the OP, are you tightening when the machine is in the correct position, ie the external feed adj wheel has marks on it that line up?

Edited By thaiguzzi on 24/03/2019 06:24:10

23/03/2019 15:51:37

Not at all.

I have the same machine, and can hog 80 - 100 thou (2 - 2.5 mm in new money) no probs in steel.

The stroke problem certainly needs investigating further, i never need to hoik hard on mine to lock up adjustment.

I presume you are on the slowest of the 4 speeds?

Thread: Mystery Starrett vice
20/03/2019 04:15:40
Posted by Jamie Wood on 19/03/2019 20:23:22:

I bought this vice on ebay, originally thinking it was bigger than it actually is. It's stamped LS Starrett but doesn't appear to have a number anywhere on it, and having been through an old catalogue and many pages of google images I still can't find any info on it. It looks like it could be a miniature version of the toolmakers clamps but wondered if anyone had seen one before? Body is approx 2" x 1/2".



I have the exact same model.

Ground vee underneath?

Can't remember where i got it from and i doubt i've used it in the last 20 odd years.

Pretty though. Innit.

Thread: Toolroom lathe?
19/03/2019 05:02:07
Posted by Andy Carruthers on 18/03/2019 10:30:33:

This is not another "which lathe should I buy thread" as I have narrowed down my "want" list - simply asking whether there is any benefit to acquiring what is advertised as a toolroom lathe as opposed to any other lathe

For example - Smart & Brown and recent advert for Gromatic spring to mind, can anyone explain why a toolroom lathe would be a better (ha - define "better" purchase than a similar size Boxford / Harrison / Colchester

Some context may be helpful, I have a Warco WM180, a great lathe to learn on and in truth I haven't explored all possibilities, and my feeling is I want something with greater than 12" between centres with separate screw cutting lead screw. As mentioned in a previous thread, the lack of a screw cutting gearbox doesn't help either, an in truth, I had to start somewhere and the WM180 was available at a fair price. I don't have a project or specific use in mind for the lathe, just a hankering for something a little larger (up to 36" between centres) and more capable as I'm probably now "borderline competent"

Thought please

Weight. Weight. And weight.

If you and your floor can handle moving a heavy lathe, buy the heaviest lathe you can get.

A footprint of a Myford, Boxford, Colchester Bantam, Harrison L5 is not that different.

Ditto a S&B 1024.

The differences in operation if all the above are in similar condition is remarkable.

Especially comparing the lightest, a Myford, to the heaviest, the Smart & Brown.

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