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Member postings for Eugene

Here is a list of all the postings Eugene has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Use By/ Best Before Dates
17/11/2015 11:40:16

Allowing for some of the much dreaded thread drift ..... a chum of mine had a small farm shop where he sold his stuff to Joe and Josephine Public quite happily.

Along comes yer actual Elfin Safety lady who spies a stack of fresh dug swedes on the floor . Words follow to the effect of "You can't do that there here, them swedes is lying on dirt."

"And where the **** do you think I got 'em from Miss, The ******** North Sea?"

He won the battle and lost the war, as per usual with these types.







Edited By Eugene on 17/11/2015 11:40:49

Thread: A rather reduced price 75-100mm 3-4" micrometer
30/09/2015 14:26:12

In general terms I regard the "Draper Expert" line as the lowest i'll go in terms of quality and price; even then some's better than t'others.

Mitutoyo are victims of the usual Chinese suspects; any amount of deliberate fakes and frauds are being sold labelled Mitutoyo but having no relationship to the genuine article or company.

If Mitutyo are supplying Draper with product at all, never mind cheap stuff with a poor finish I'd be very surprised.


Thread: Why reverse a lathes direction?
24/08/2015 08:27:51


Thanks for the reply, but I still don't understand fully.

Say I'm screwcutting a metric thread and want to leave the drive nut permanently engaged, but rewind the carriage, all I need do is operate the tumble reverse. The drive to the shaft is reversed and so the carriage moves t'other way. I can retract the tool or not as preference indicates. Yes?

You may gather from the degree of incomprehension that I have yet to cut a metric thread.


23/08/2015 20:51:45

I have a Myford M type which has a screw type spindle and is fitted with both a reversing switch for the motor, and a tumble reverse.

As a mere novice I've taken it that the presence of the tumbler renders the reversing switch redundant. Am I right? Are there circumstances when the direction of rotation on a screw type spindle needs to be reversed? I didn't understand the external boring thing ..... above my pay grade. 


Edited By Eugene Molloy on 23/08/2015 20:56:27

Thread: working orrery magazine
23/08/2015 20:33:35

I dont see an "edit" function in MEW so I'll correct my typo in the final paragraph....... a normal brass plating bath contains copper and zinc in solution not brass and zinc.

I think the ammonia fumes were getting to me even after forty years!


22/08/2015 12:48:21

Brass plating is a very well known and understood process.

Most decorative brass plating is applied over an under layer of nickel in a similar way to chromium which also relies on the brightening and levelling properties of bright nickel plating. There is a less well known engineering application; brass plated steel has a much greater adhesion than the bare metal when bonding rubber parts to it.

Different metals will indeed deposit out in a plating bath; brass, bronze, and tin / lead, tin /zinc, and zinc iron alloys are all are common enough, and there are dozens of gold alloys too which give different colours and wearing qualities. I was a development chemist when tungsten / cobalt alloys were being used as facings on forging dies. If a zinc based diecasting drops into a nickel bath it will dissolve in the acid conditions and start to plate out as a very much unwanted alloy, as will copper. Both bring about black streaky deposits; the experienced eye can tell which is present.

The normal brass bath is cyanide based, contains brass and zinc in solution, and utilises brass anodes. That keeps the alloy percentages pretty regular, and hence the colour doesn't vary too badly. We used to run on copper anodes (cheapskates!) and add extra zinc salts as we went along; this is a much more difficult process to control, and is unpleasant to run; fine tuning the colour requires an addition to the hot bath of liquid ammonia .... lovely.






Edited By Eugene Molloy on 22/08/2015 12:50:37

Thread: HSS or carbide cutting tools for first lathe.
18/08/2015 22:43:06


I was in just your position eighteen months ago; this is my experience.....

Freehand grinding HSS tools I found a difficult skill to acquire; I actually ruined more than I succeeded in sharpening, and wound up with a small box of useless dog end tools, so I couldn't do any turning work at all. Some of the HSS ready formed tools I bought off Ebay were rubbish; they chipped all the time and gave a very poor finish. So I abandoned HSS.

At the Harrogate show I spoke to JB Cutting Tools who recommended a grade of carbide insert suitable for use on small lathes. They also have a good range of insert holders, left hand, right, hand boring bars, all that sort of stuff. These I found very easy to use, and got an excellent finish. I had to be careful with them because any clumsiness on my part would result in a chipped tool that was then useless on that corner (they are a rhombus shape so have four cutting corners).

I had been told by many experienced turners that carbide was unsuitable for small lathes of low power and suspect rigidity, because they have a negative rake and great speed and power were essential. What they didn't say or more likely didn't know is that there are carbide tools that don't fall into that class.

The grade I use is CCGT 09T304, about £3.20 each. They don't like interrupted cuts but even at modest speeds cut very cleanly on all metals including Al and stainless.

In time I intend to go the HSS route, but freehand grinding is for the birds especially if you are forming a new tool from a blank. Right now I'm making a Harold Hall type grinding fixture as shown in his book on the subject, and I'll certainly give HSS tangent tools a try too.

My recommendation is to speak to Jenny at JB, tell her what your needs are and I'm sure she'll fix you up; she seems to be a knowledgeable lady and very helpful. When you've got a bit of turning experience under your belt, make a judgement as to which way you feel you want to go.


Thread: Another Freebie
13/08/2015 17:56:34

I had the pleasure of meeting John for the first time today and picked up a really useful selection of steel for my lathe projects.

Thank you, John,


09/08/2015 11:24:23


See PM


Thread: Plastic off cuts
06/08/2015 21:12:13

Not me.


Thread: Make your own 'Air Rifle'
17/07/2015 08:52:41


You are quite right, I'd forgotten the true single stroke jobs.


16/07/2015 21:18:41

A single stroke pneumatic is similar in it's operation to a spring powered gun. However, instead of compressing a spring, it compresses a volume of air into a closed space. They are sometimes called "gas ram" guns; if you imagine something like the gas strut on a car boot lid you get the general idea.

As a by the by, I never recommend using a spring powered gun, such as your Diana for hunting, they are far too finnicky as to how they are held; different hand placements give greatly different Mean Points of Impact and therefore an unacceptable degree of inaccuracy. This can be overcome with assiduous practice using what is called the "artillery hold" but in my experience few people have the required degree of application. A PCP gives another level of accuracy right out of the box.


16/07/2015 21:06:53

""John W1 posted "Perhaps they were wearing crash helmets".

Perhaps also apart from having no idea of the rifle's power and therefore shooting irresponsibly, frownyou didn't observe the six principles of marksmanship, didn't measure the distance, didn't know about correct shot placement and the angle at which your quarry presents itself, and didn't have confidence in your own abilities. If you hit a rabbit in the brain with an up to snuff air rifle under the 35 yards maximum, it's dead. The area in question is very roughly the size of a ten pence piece. If you can't manage that with good reliability, then you are wise to desist from shooting live quarry.

As a twelve year old, with a Mk 1 BSA Meteor (well under 12 ft / lbs) I clean killed dozens of rabbits at modest (but known through constant practice) distances. The same applied to wood pigeon, and still does some sixty years later.

I've had all sorts in my cabinet, from air rifles through .22 rim fire .222, .243 and once upon a time .308. In the right circumstances all are appropriate. You just need to know what you are doing.

"Maybe with something of an iffy kill aspect from 35 feet or even less" ... see the paragraph above. It is possible but futile to calibrate sights at ten yards, as it's pretty unlikely you'll get that close to a rabbit. The usual strategy is to sight in at twenty two yards which even schoolboys can judge as the length of a cricket pitch, and should be your ideal shooting range. Under that you hold low, and above it hold high, the degree depending on the characteristics of the particular rifle, and your knowledge of it.

I have organised rabbit shoots with guests using FAC air rifles, who through improper shot placement wounded the beast when a correctly placed 12 ft/lb gun would have given a clean kill. On these occasions I always use a shotgun as a back up plus a well trained dog (as in all other live quarry hunts).

It isn't the arrow that counts, it's the Indian.


16/07/2015 10:03:57

My late father used to say that any gardener pestered by rabbits was in need of a small boy with an air rifle ..... that's how I got my first one at age eleven. I was shown how to use it safely and responsibly.

In those days all you needed a ten bob Gun Licence which also covered shotguns, obtainable over the counter from your Post Office, I had one though I doubt many people bothered. I fail to be convinced that any licensing system will reduce the criminal or irresponsible use of guns, or ever has. I've gone through the ten bob job, the no licence at all job when that system was phased out and the new one brought in, and the modified legislation we now have; all in my experience and opinion equally futile. if a criminal wants a gun he'll get one and not bother with any legal process. The irresponsible and thoughtless will always be so; no bit of paper will alter that.

In response to John W1, a 12 ft/lb air rifle is perfectly adequate for rabbits and squirrels when used sensibly and accurately. The maximum practical range is about 35 yards, and only head shots should be taken. Using those two simple rules hundreds of thousands of small pests are humanely despatched every year.

I use a 12 ft / lb PCP .22 air rifle equipped with an excellent telescope sight for rabbits; I don't like the .22 rim fire on the stony ground we have, the potential for ricochets is too great, and a shotgun often smashes them up too badly for the table.


Thread: George H Thomas Books
03/07/2015 09:17:47


"Workshop Techniques" details building both the UPT and the Versatile Dividing Head.

Workshop Manual" describes modifications to lathe top slides and tailstocks, together with making lathe accessories; rotary table, engraving tool, rear tool post and many others.

I think they are only available in hard copy.

Posted at the same time as Rod's entry, oops.


Edited By Eugene Molloy on 03/07/2015 09:19:27

Thread: Can't access on-line magazines.
03/07/2015 08:55:08

Thanks men, sorted now.


02/07/2015 21:56:48

I tried to access the magazine archive today and couldn't get in.

My subscription number can be seen in the "Profile" tab, and the subscription is up to date (got the freebie to prove it). I've deleted the subscription number and re-inserted it, but that didn't help.

What's to do?


Thread: Tail alignment and gear handle play
30/06/2015 09:19:26

"When Whitworth was working on The Standard Inch, he devised his "millionth machine" to compare different standard bars.


It 's accuracy depended on the feel of a scraped disc passing between the scraped surfaces of the sample bar and that of a facing piece. Whitworth claimed a skilled operator could indeed detect a difference of one millionth of an inch between "standards". 

Link to the free E-book description **LINK**


Edited By Eugene Molloy on 30/06/2015 09:24:57

Thread: Electrolysis style rust removal
17/06/2015 18:42:24

Molasses is available in UK from farm supply merchants; it's used as animal feed and many dairy farms have it in bulk tanks. You can also buy it in 5 litre lots from E-bay for under a tenner. Given the usual dilution for de-rusting that should make somewhere between 25 and 50 gallons of de-rusting mixture.

The process works, but its slow and smelly. It doesn't attack the basis metal as do the acidic vinegars.

Ultrasonics work well but the cost of any realistically sized set up is a bit daunting. Fine for small parts but you wouldn't want to be doing a car door panel ..... mega bucks.

A suitable ultrasonic derusting medium would be warm citric acid. I've never tried Boric acid as an ultrasonic deruster but it should work very well ... it's really good used warm at about 25 gram / litre on its own. I've cleaned a lot of rusty cast iron woodworking plane bodies with it and had excellent results. 


Edited By Eugene Molloy on 17/06/2015 18:57:27

Edited By Eugene Molloy on 17/06/2015 18:58:46

Thread: Anybody ever seen a level like this one?
28/04/2015 10:40:38

I agree with Jason, above.

"Pente", as marked on one of the scales, is the French for inclination. "Niveau" is the noun for a level, but can also mean flat.

Lovely old tool that could have many uses in all sorts of construction work. I wish I'd had one when I laid the stone patio round my garden pond!


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