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Member postings for Eugene

Here is a list of all the postings Eugene has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Draper bench grinder
11/08/2017 16:23:13

Mine was a horrible piece of fragile rubbish. The flexible lamp fell off, the "rests" were laughable and the steps on the shaft to locate the wheels were grossly misshaped giving major wheel wobble; chucked it in the skip.

The "Allwin" model as sold by Ketan at Arc Eurotrade is much nicer , a genuine working tool, and not much more money.


Thread: Drummond/Myford M type cross slide
08/06/2017 22:36:55


I use the 10mm insert holders from JB Cutting tools. They fit quit nicely into the original Norman Patent tool "block" that was standard issue with the M type.


Thread: What type of wood to use?
28/05/2017 21:00:00

Second the lignum vitae suggestion, and ash for the handle, beyond question.

If you've got a bit of elm, fine, but my mentor Mr Blount always said it was unlucky to fell an elm ... they made coffins out of it!

Lignum vitae I first came across as the "stop end" for horses head collar ropes in stables. Those things went up and down brick walls a zillion times a day and never blinked.


Thread: Drummond/Myford M type cross slide
28/05/2017 17:50:02


Your set up does sound a bit different from mine, but the principles seem to be the same; just do the adjustment stepwise.

Ref. the insert tooling. When i first started out I had no tooling of any kind. My attempts at grinding HSS were dispiritingly pathetic and produced things with the profile of a pineapple and cut about as well. Ready made HSS tools from E-bay were awful; they just chipped as soon as you used them.

At the Harrogate Show I got some advice from Jenny at J B Cutting tools and ordered left and right holders for CCGT09T304NF25 inserts and with these did my first successful turning. They work a charm, but be under no illusion that you won't bust a few tips; as clumsy beginner, I sure did. The "04" bit in the description refers to the radius of the cutting tip in mm. 04 is general purpose, 02 is fine finishing, 08 is roughing.

Using them I could at least turn stuff with a passable finish, and learn more about the job, the lathe, and the necessary techniques. I did run into a problem with chatter when taking any cut much over .010" but I cured that with the "secondary bearing dodge" described elsewhere in the forum. I can take .050" cuts (i.e. .100" off diameter) with complete confidence when using clean steel with a good end face.

I then built the HSS tool grinding jig designed by Harold Hall; his "Simple Grinding Rest". There is a learning curve associated with it, and getting the initial rough profile on the tool is still a bind, but results have been pretty gratifying. With a deep angle knife tool the machine will do very heavy cuts even on rough steel that would chip an insert.

So that's my experience, if it's any help great, mind you I don't have your engineering background so I do tend to find out things the hard way. There is no attempt here to teach Granny how to suck eggs!












Edited By Eugene on 28/05/2017 18:20:24

27/05/2017 16:59:43


Welcome to that part of the asylum that is especially reserved for M type users.sad

The first time I tried to adjust the cross slide it just about drove me potty, it's one of those occasions when "simple" which the mechanism is, doesn't mean "easy".

The procedure I use is to remove the whole of the feed screw assembly, and throughly clean it taking care not to allow the small leaf type pressure spring inside the micrometer dial fly off into some dark corner. Then adjust the gib strip screws aiming for a nice silky movement when moved by hand.

Lubricate the screw with medium grease and the micrometer assembly with a light oil. I use gun oil because it doesn't gum up as badly as some others. When you put it all back together, don't fully tighten up the grub screw you mentioned, leave it just lightly in contact with the flat taper.

The handle locking set up acts as a crude thrust bearing. Tighten the inner nut using a box spanner until it just starts to resist, then pull up the outer nut to lock it into place. Try the handle and see what you've got. From there on it's just a matter of sickening off the outer nut, and nipping up the inner one just tad, and repeating until you get what you feel is acceptable. Only when you're happy with the action do you fully tighten the grub screw.

I've tried the PTFE washer thing and it sort of works for a bit, then it compresses and needs adjusting again; non starter in my view.

In fairness I've got the backlash down to about .006-8" which is bearable (pun intended) but I'd like to see the back of it altogether. I'm sure you're right, the best option is some proper thrust bearings and that's going to be one of my first projects when I get my new workshop up and running.

As Swarf! says the Drummond forum is a clumsy effort, but there is a lot of good stuff in there. I've asked about the mod you and I are contemplating but didn't find anyone who had done it. It's common enough on the Myford 7 series lathes though.






Edited By Eugene on 27/05/2017 17:06:04

Edited By Eugene on 27/05/2017 17:07:55

Thread: Myford/Drummond lathe Mod's and information
19/05/2017 09:20:13

Agree about the wretched holes in the bed ..... I must get some of those wee plugs made up.

I added a second thrust bearing to the spindle in an effort to cure chatter, which was very successful. It's such a cheap and simple mod that I recommend doing it to all M Types. It enables you to take some really meaty cuts.

The only other mod I'm a bit anal about is getting shot of the commonly fitted Dewhurst on / off / reversing switch. When leaning across the machine to change the belt from one pulley to another my hip brushed the switch and turned the motor on. I wasn't hurt, though obviously I could have been, but I did ruin my trousers from the inside!face 1

Needle Roller Thrust Bearings


19/05/2017 09:13:10

Agree about the wretched holes in the bed ..... I must get some of those wee plugs made up.

I added a second thrust bearing to the spindle in an effort to cure chatter, which was very successful. It's such a cheap and simple mod that I recommend doing it to all M Types. It enables you to take some really meaty cuts.

The only other mod I'm a bit anal about is getting shot of the commonly fitted Dewhurst on / off / reversing switch. When leaning across the machine to change the belt from one pulley to another my hip brushed the switch and turned the motor on. I wasn't hurt, though obviously I could have been, but I did ruin my trousers from the inside!face 1


Thread: Cyanoacrylate and Quicklime
17/05/2017 10:44:47

Be aware that Bicarb and Calcium oxide will not form a water resistant compound with a superglue type adhesive; both dissolve in water.

If you want to try a waterproof material I'd suggest slate powder, but in the case of a domestic cylinder thats already in failure mode, I'd bin it anyway.


Thread: Setting up shop
06/05/2017 18:37:10


Hi Jon,

I travelled the same road a couple of years ago, and using timber of similar dimensions to you, made a sturdy bench that has served me well. The 1/2" MDF is in my view a bit weedy, I'd want something better.

You could laminate two sheets of 1/2 MDF if if you already have it to hand; but I used 18mm ply well supported with cross members and never regretted it. Take advantage of the bespoke bench to store tools and instruments in draws.

My 1/2 horse motor is powered from a standard 13 Amp socket with its own earth leakage circuit breaker; the emergency stop plus start / stop switch came from Axminster, from memory about £25.00. If you do weld up a stand, or buy a metal one in, bond it to the lathe and earth. I installed a dedicated earth spike especially for the garden workshop..







Edited By Eugene on 06/05/2017 19:17:53

Thread: Just to say hello
02/05/2017 09:12:13

Started out on the design of my new workshop after a house move last September robbed me of the old one. All the kit is in storage in a nearby friends barn.

The new garden is quite small (albeit pretty) with a lovely outlook over open pastures, so I'm constrained both by size and appearance; a common or garden shed would look awful, so the idea at the moment is to make it look like a summerhouse.

In fact it will be a summerhouse, but better insulated and more secure.

If it works out and doesn't look too twee I'll post a pic or two.


Thread: Images from the Soho Foundry
25/04/2017 10:28:59

"I presume its Tangye's workshops".

Tangyes were established in Cornwall Works, Soho Foundry which was next door, was indeed the stamping (ooh!) ground of Boulton, Watt and Murdock.

As a native Brummie (you can tell by the shamrock in the turban) these two outfits are part of my personal and family history.

My great-grandmother was a servant in Boulton's house, one of the the first to have interior gas lighting. I went to Matthew Boulton Tech. College. During WWII the adjoining gas holder in Smethwick Gas Works was hit by a bomb; it didn't blow up, just produce an enormous rushing flame out of the top like a giant Roman candle. My late father was one of the NFS crew who put it out. My wife's family all worked at Tangyes,


Thread: Any Chemists (rust)
18/04/2017 09:39:56

EDTA is a fair guess, but I'd expect to see other stuff in there; leaving a sticky film behind isn't an EDTA characteristic.

In industrial mixtures I've made up baths that included heptonates and gluconates  as the chelators, plus caustic soda for electrical conductivity (not required in an immersion process like Evapo-Rust.) There might even be phophonates present in Evapo-Rust, they are useful chelates and rust inhibitors. A good dollop of sodium cyanide helps a lot too, but I don't see that on the MSDS!

When I come to use Evapo-Rust in a few months time (can't be bothered to make my own) I'll follow up with a de-watering oil. These give good interstage protection and do get the water out of nooks and crannies which taking the parts out of the bath and parking them in a corner won't.  Pong a bit mind.



Edited By Eugene on 18/04/2017 09:54:08

Thread: Springy steel
07/03/2017 09:19:50

A bit of the backing piece off an old wiper blade might suit you ..... I've used several bits of it for lightweight flat springs.


Thread: Drummond Round bed lathe
29/01/2017 17:55:50

If you have the kit to do it I'd make the missing gears to match the existing ones and the bracket / arms; that would retain authenticity.

I bought a part set of gears off the net that were said to be for the M Type; they were indeed similar but the pin / hole distance was different and the bores were very variable. I think the lesson is to be very careful if you do buy in, and come to some agreement with the seller about returning them if they don't fit.


Thread: Another not model making
10/12/2016 22:30:33

Hi Angus,

We lived in Button Bridge just up the way from you for about 10 years; now a bit outside Tenbury.



Thread: Parvalux motor with gearbox
25/09/2016 17:52:07

Just expanding on Duncans' post, the diddy sized ones are a popular choice for sensitive drilling set ups as per the George Thomas pillar tool.


Thread: What Did You Do Today (2016)
18/08/2016 15:51:56

"Vapour blasting" when I was a yoof in Brum, was just common or garden glass bead blasting, done in small cabinets with built in gloves so the operator could twiddle the parts and blasting pistol around.

From memory "Vaqua" was a trade name for either the process or it's equipment and implied the wet type blasting; it can be done dry as well. It's an ideal method for decrappicating small parts and assemblies.






Edited By Eugene on 18/08/2016 15:54:43

Thread: Proper tool grinding?
06/08/2016 19:22:00

BTW when people talk of 'off hand grinding' do they mean holding the tool in mid air or just using the dinky as supplied rest as a fulcrum to get rough angles but not having a more sophisticated method of setting angles and ensuring the tool stays aligned as it is ground?

Bazyle, for me as a novice, off hand using the "dinky" rest (I have other nouns available) was just as hopeless as the air shot. Harold's rest has been a big step forward.


Edited By Eugene on 06/08/2016 19:28:23

06/08/2016 19:13:55

Could anyone comment on whether this is a good course of action for an ambitious beginner to precision tool grinding?

Yes. I've done just that recently and found Harold's simple jig a very useful tool.

As a raw beginner I found off hand grinding dispiriting and tedious; it took a long time to produce something that wasn't any good. Harold's jig has moved me on from there.

You should be aware that there is a big difference in time and effort between sharpening an already formed tool and shaping one from the blank. I use a thin blade angle grinder to rough out a blank before sharpening it with the simple grinding rest with very good results.

Thus far I've only made lathe and shaper tools from either HSS or silver steel; no drill sharpening or milling cutter sharpening, so I can't comment on those aspects.

The construction of the jig was a bit of a challenge for me, I'd never done anything like it before, but it taught me a lot. The dovetail slide was the most difficult part but I managed it in the end; I've since seen another version with just a simple box type clamp and it works equally well. I don't have a mill, just a milling slide for the lathe ... my tip would be to go the box clamp route.

On a seventy year old half horse lathe, using a knife tool formed with the angle grinder and sharpened with the jig, I can take quarter inch cuts off diameter with no problems ... good enough for me.

In short go for it.


Edited By Eugene on 06/08/2016 19:26:20

Thread: Feed, speed, and swarf.
16/07/2016 08:38:55

You're right about the CCGT tip. The 04 suffix represents the radius in mm at the cutting point and would be regarded as a semi roughing tool; 02 is the usual finishing radius.

I started out with the CCGTs on my Myford M Type as I didn't have anything else by the way of tools or holders. They work well on MS but only if its not too rough on the surface to start with, plus facing cuts on a ragged edge result invariably in broken tips. If your stock is OK to start with you can actually take quite chunky cuts with them.

Now I've made Harolds' simple grinding rest and got some HSS tools looking more or less right, the performance I can get has greatly improved.

Last week just by way of experiment I got the machine to remove a quarter inch on diameter, ie a cut of .125" off some unknown steel using a home brew HSS knife tool. No chatter or groans from the lathe and a perfectly acceptable finish; not bad for a 70 year old half horse lathe.

If I would give any advice it would be to reserve the CCGTs for what they are best at, and get some good HSS cutters to hand. Harolds' grinding rest was an interesting project in itself, and now I'm starting to understand it a bit more the tooling is pretty fair. One for you perhaps?

The next play area is some tangential HSS doo dads I've bought from Eccentric Eng.



Edited By Eugene on 16/07/2016 08:44:02

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