Here is a list of all the postings Roger Hulett has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What to do,what to do.|
I have now saved up enough RDG vouchers to buy a self centering 4 jaw chuck.
I have a South Bend lathe with both 3jaw and 4 jaw chucks. A small Pools horizontal mill.vertical slide and boring table.
Am I doing the right thing, or is it going to be a waste of vouchers
|Thread: soldering brass|
Further to this topic, adjacent to the item being soldered there is a threaded section. Obviously I don't want to let the solder run into this area. Is there an anti flux,something that prevents the solder running into the threads..... Vaseline,grinding paste,butter, 3 in i oil ?
|Thread: Pivoting bolt|
Apparently they go by many names. Hinged Pin,Drop Nose Pin,Link Pin,Dead Link Hinge Pin. The only problem is no-one seems to make them in the size that I want. They are mostly for marine applications and are either too small or too large...... I will keep searching as I don't think I can make one!
|Thread: soldering brass|
I am beginning to assemble my brass,home made carburettor. I have faithfully copied the original. It is necessary to solder the parts together. However, some parts have to be soldered to other parts that have already been soldered. Is there a technique for keeping the old parts cool whilst heating up adjacent parts for soldering. The parts can not be soldered simultaneously.
|Thread: Pivoting bolt|
Sorry I haven't replied to these posts but have been having a bit of resection,I think that's what it's called. Anyway up, completely my fault,I didn't derust and clean up the pin. It was a pin after all.. So the above information was correct and very useful.Thankyou all very much. New post coming up about brass soldering,(again)
I have a bolt which,after the nut has been threaded on a certain distance,pivots downwards,effectively stopping the nut from running off the bolt. I wonder if anyone knows the name of this type of bolt and,indeed,if they are currently available. I do not relish the idea of making some. It is from a 1920 motorbike.
|Thread: mini turning|
It's all I can do to work a lathe and type letters on a computer Asking me to take pictures or draw sketches and post them.......well. ..............Now ............... If my great grandson was here........ no prob.
OK everyone,Thanks very much. Job done. 45degree tool did the job.
Sorry, did not explain myself correctly. I should have said the 3mm diameter will TAPER
out to the 5mm diameter.
I have a 70mm x 5mm brass rod. I need to turn this down to 3mm. At one end there needs to be a 45degree angle to take the rod from the turned 3mm to the original 5mm. I have a 1939 South Bend 9" a small Pools horizontal mill. Rotary Table, Vertical slide. Pillar drill
Advice on the correct procedure to carry this out will be very much appreciated.
|Thread: Die diameter|
I wish to die down a brass rod to 1/4" BSP. To what diameter do I need to turn the brass rod down to get a near perfect thread?.Thankyou.
|Thread: Thread cutting again|
I am making a float chamber for a 1919 (unknown make) carburettor. My tube is 1 3/4" od and 1 3/8 id.. The cap is solid. The tube must remain at 1 3/4" od in order to fit in the base plate the joins the float chamber to the main body of the carb. The thread measurement of the internal thread appears to be 24tpi Whit (I have a Starret Whit thread gauge). My SB 9" lathe was made in 1939 and imported by Pidgen Bros (London). I had assumed (obviously incorrectly) that the chart attached to the lathe was Whitworth as it showed the change wheel settings for 24tpi,but I suppose it could be any 24tpi thread form. The float chamber I have (in a very sorry state of repair) has a thickness of 1/16 ",hence my query. Can I form a 24tpi thread in a 1/16 wall and then what external diam do I need the cap to be before cutting the thread on this.
If the SB chart is not specific to Whitworth,but with the correct change wheels form a thread with either 60degrees or 55 degrees (depending upon the insert) of 24tpi, does it really matter,providing the same tool is used both for cap and tube.
Thankyou for the replies. (Brian Wood), the brass tube is 3/16" thick,so should be OK for thread cutting, The cap is solid. The fit does not have to be pressure or liquid tight,but a good enough fit not to unscrew with vibration.
(Andrew Johnston), I was intending to use 55degree thread cutting inserts (from RDG) as I assumed that is the Whitworth requirement. Obviously incorrect,can you please advise further. I chose the 24tpi from the chart attached to my old S.B. lathe as it seemed fine enough to stop the cap unscrewing with vibration. Your corrected advice will be most welcome. Thankyou.
I have to internally thread a brass tube. I will then fit a cap to this tube,the cap will have an external thread, and will screw into the brass tube.
Is there an easy formula to turn the diameters of the tube and the cap so that when threaded they will fit perfectly.
I am cutting 24tpi Whitworth.
|Thread: Complete beginners threading euphoria|
Oh you sailors !!
I shall be milling some small hexagons on a round brass stock using my little horizontal mill and Warco dividing head. Are there any pitfalls to be aware of or other advice ? Thankyou
|Thread: Micro drilling|
Thankyou everyone, problem now fixed. I followed Martin Kyte's instruction re spotting,worked perfectly. trued up the point on the micro drill,ensured that there was no play on the brass rod and bingo,a nice clean hole.
Having reread Roger B's post I think I need a smaller centre drill.
Yes,the hole is in the centre of the rod,similar to the set up of JasonB's photo. I don't seem able to get the spot drill to form a sharp enough recess to stop my micro drill wandering all over the place.
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