Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Super 7|
On my Myford super 7 , the spindle runs to better than 0.001mm truely amazing. It was new in 1972, still has the original shaft and taper bronze bearing, and has been very well looked after over all. It was re fitted and I did lap the spindle back to being round again, and then fitted the taper bush to the spindle. But before I reworked the spindle, it had done more than 100,000 parts in a production environment that I know of, and who knows how many parts it made when used as a production small parts lathe before that. The roundness was about 0.002mm which is still way better than most Eastern machine tools today, except for their Tool range of lathes that do have better bearings. Most I have looked at recently only have a spindle that is about 0.006mm to 0.010mm of roundness. Depending on what you want to make will determine the roundness you require. For the competition model engine pistons that I trim on my S7, they perform better than the ones supplied by the factory who makes the engines. If I trim them on a lathe at work that has only a roundness of 0.002mm, they do not run anywhere near as well. If you can get a Myford second hand like one recently that came up on a thread with lots of accessories, I am sure they will be happy that it is going to a home where is will be used and appreciated. Yes they maybe a little more up front, but no one complains about a quality product or the really good surface finish that is achievable .
|Thread: 1/2" roughing end mill|
A 4 flute endmill is not good practice when cutting a slot. In general there is too much swarf to cope with when there are 4 flutes or more. 3 flutes or less is better for slot cutting. If you take lots of small cuts , so in the region of 1 to 1.5mm deep the 4 flute will cut a slot. But in general a slot drill cutter will take about 50% of it's diameter as a depth of cut, like cutting a key way . I never bother with the wavy sided roughing cutters. For a 12mm slot, I would use a 10mm 3 flute end mill/Uni Mill cutter, and then go down it with a nice 12mm cutter. If the size of the slot is important, then using a new or very good condition 10mm cutter , 4 flute or 6 flute and finish the sides of the slot that way with a 1.0X cut off the centre line each way until it is at size. Most carbide cutters are about 0.02 to 0.03mm in diameter undersized anyway.
With tool steels, or steels harder than free machine MS, often the depth of cut is about 1/2 and the feedrate is about 20% less with a surface cutting speed also about 20% less maybe more depending on the steel and the sturdyness of the mill and set up.
|Thread: Morse taper spec.|
This is correct. I can't find the reference for when I made some MT2 and MT4 tapers recently, but the spec was given as a diameter at one end, and a diameter at the other end, and the length of the distance apart of these 2 dimensions. The part that I found was interesting was the tolerance specified on the taper. The outside part could be made to the same taper, with the small end, could be made smaller by 0.0001 inches. The inside taper on the small end could be made bigger by 0.0001 inches. This difference would make then jam/wedge tight together. There was also mention to the reason for the sleeve extension outside of the sleeve, as an area to yield when the smaller sleeve is inserted and drifted to position.
I was looking into this recently.
Found this note interesting.
A question often asked within the clinical community is, “what specifically is a Morse taper and can it provide a stable connection between components?” A Morse taper is defined by the angle that the taper surfaces make relative to the longitudinal axis of the component and by the mismatch angle between the male and female part. The original Morse taper angle defined by Stephen Morse for tools was a relatively small angle of 2° 50′, with the mathematical relation that tang 2° 50 = 5 %.
|Thread: Are we Luddites?|
The ultimate cnc still does not exist yet, but they are slowly getting there. Be it a manual machine or a cnc machine tool, to make very precise parts, still requires a high level of skill either way and the ability to be able to measure what you are making. Now there is 3d printing of metal parts from what look like regular plastic 3d printers, they those parts are sintered . cnc is just another tool technology to make things with and have fun doing so at the same time.
Google shows A set for sale with collets and adaptor for sale. http://www.myford-lathes.com/accessories2.html
|Thread: What's the best alternative to 'loctited'|
Maybe it should be bonded with XXX glue/adhesive/bearing retaining compound/thread locker/ etc
|Thread: Shortened MT4 toolholders|
Its the angle of the photo and the lens making an illusion. They are MT4 taper.
I used these inserts, picure in my album and on the recent insert thread. TNGG160402R-S PR1125 (Wonder Insert) One hard steel Iuse it at 25 to 30 M/min surface speed,slow feed like 2 thou per rev or so. For the Drill chuck, I put a 10mm dowel in the chuck, and did the chuck up tight with the C spanner that comes with them, normally for undoing the chucks. Anyway I held onto the dowel, and used the centre to support it. Then just nibbled away at them at about 200 rpm and taking about 0.4mm cuts(0.8mm diameter) till I got down to about 17mm diameter. Then used a hacksaw to cut off the excess, and cleaned up the end face with small cuts. Then re tapped the M16 deeper. The other holders we held in the reverse jaws. They were hardish on the outside, but soft under the 3mm or so skin thickness. Once through the hard skin, could up the rpm a bit. I should not have had the parallel part where the M16 thread is, I should have just round off the end. The Drill arbour did have already the M16 thread in it. It was not a tanged MT4.
I shortened my MT4 tool holders 40 mm on the MT4 end. But because they had a 10mm depth thread relief , I only needed to make a draw bar 30mm longer. This will let me change the tooling out with the need in most cases of raising and lowering the head or changing position to change a tool Im very happy it. Hindsight say's I should have as not had the relief at the top of the holders like I copied. The only holder I did not change was the precision drill chuck with an integrated MT4 to the chuck body.
|Thread: Superglue for holding workpieces|
If you follow the link about 1/2 way down the page, he has a shopping list of the two types of tape that they recommend and the best super glues they have found. I can get the super glue he uses in the video as Loctite is sold here. For my test, I just used the Blue painters tape from 3M from the paint department from Bunnings, a home building supply company. Cleaning the surface with IPA Isopropyl alcohol really made the tape stick quite well.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 20/05/2018 10:41:08
Thanks for that .
I was thinking the same Eric. But after looking more closely, I noticed that the the tape does wrap around the sides for both the fixed block and the work piece. The function of wrapping around the corner does give it a lot holding power over just the double sided tape. Did a small test just using the Blue paint tape. Maybe the double sided tape was not as grunty as it could have been but the tape and super glue did hold a lot better. The other thing was, I used a scotchbrite pad to clean the surfaces of the fixed block and the workpiece, then the IPA . This made a really big difference in the ability of the tape to stick to the Ali test pieces. This cleaning also helped with the double sided tape. Maybe if i had a bigger test piece, the results of the double sided tape may have been better.
Does anyone know of any low melting plastics that could be used to cast around a part to create support and can be removed or softened in boiling water?
|Thread: Carbide Insert decode|
These are my main inserts for my Myford lathe and what I turn. This little insert is quite amazing. It does outer turn, fits my small boring bars, and will cut everything from Al to bearing races, including Ti. Technically it is a stainless steel grade,CCGT060202MP-CK-PR1425
My other mainstay turning insert is the TNGG160402R-S PR1125 (Wonder Insert) called a Wonder insert by the NZ seller. It really is just that. Like the other little insert, it will cut all materials including bearing races, and Ti. I mainly just get the R0.2mm inserts, as I often need a fairly sharp corner for so many things. The seller I buy from also does sell single inserts as well, so very helpful to the model market. I find that the smaller radius has less tool pressure loading. As long as the feedrate is 25% of the tool radius, it will give a very good surface finish..
For the DCMT11 holder I use these, they are an AL specific turning insert, but as long as the feedrate is not too high, cut steel very well also. Just awesome with plastics, as they are very sharp.
The last surprise was this 8mm( R4) button turning insert. I thought that it will chatter like no tomorrow and give a poor surface finish. But it comes up looking like a mirror. This I used on the bearing holder for the sensitive drill adaptor. Works really well on Al, not yet tried on steels yet.
I have given up on buying cheap. With the Mitsubishi inserts, the VP05RT grade is very similar to the Kyocera PR1425 grade and the PR1125 grade. The VP15RT is not as hard a coating.
|Thread: Myford saddle oiler|
So I found that the initial way I was oiling the saddle, due to the uneven length of the tubing and the slight height difference, ment that the rear slide got most of the oil and the front getting very little oil. Now I have both at the same length of tube, and have the oil pot in 2 places. One just above the level of the bed when not in use, and the other raised above under my tool shelf to give a gravity feed. I can also put the oil gun inside the oil spout lid to give a force flow of oil to clear away any chips etc.
elevated for supply
lowered for storage or when not required.
|Thread: Tailstock measure|
The link did not work for me.
Here is what I did. I used the #2BA oiler points to mount the plate. Got some M5 fully threaded bolts, and ran a #2BA die down about 6mm. Threaded on the M5 nyloc nuts with the nyloc end against #2BA thread. Drilled through with 1.5mm drill. These become the studs to mount the plate and the scale body. Made some spacer washer to get the plate level, the back end needed 2.2mm thicker washer compared to the front one. The Ali plate to clamp the scale to the barrel is held by a 0.03mm fit. Made a top hat from a piece of capscrew shaft, has a 4mm through hole and a 5.03mm od. The 5.03 is a press fit to the Ali clamp plate that was reamed 5mm and drill tapped M4 . The Ø5.03 is a nice slid fit in the scale oval slot, and a M4 capscrew keeps it in place as well. As the barrel key is worn, this allows for the rotary movement and not effect the readout of the scale. I used the other end of the mount as a length stop. With the rack and pinion barrel assembly, the barrel protrudes 3/16 of an inch. I made the clamp with 4.5mm recess to the front and drilled a 21mm through hole. Used a screw driver to open and get it onto the barrel. If I need to change back to the hand wheel and barrel , I will be limited in total travel by the 4.5mm of the clamp. I thought that I had the plate at a 30 deg angle . Truns out it is actually 32 deg lol measured with the protractor ap on my phone.lol
Front mount point
rear mount adjuster spacer
Ali clamp block, 0.03mm interference fit to hold in place
The most forward position with limit stop
Using, new to me , phone app,Smart tools Protractor, to measure the actual angle it ended up being.
|Thread: Precision diameters|
An update on piston trimming and taking very fine cuts. So, since I got this postitive geometry PCD insert, I can now a make and fit the pistons for the F2C Diesel race engines. This cutter allows me to trim the piston dry, get a really good finish, and allows for less than 1um cuts on a piston. Cutting dry is a big time saver as they need to be clean and dry to get an idea of the fit point in the liner. I also added a continuous drip oil feed to the saddle to keep the bed wet with oil all the time. Makes it very consistent on the saddle movement.
|Thread: What DRO for a Myford|
I have a Myford S7 lathe with the Taper turning attachment mounted on the back. I don't use the taper turning attachment all that often, but still want that capability.
What recommendations or suggestions for a DRO system do people have?
Looking for a X and Y DRO setup if possible.
Thanks for any input.
Edited By JasonB on 13/05/2018 13:14:12
|Thread: Strength of Cast iron|
I only buy and use the 12.9 capscrews. Where you have the M6 screw, to secure a a lifting point, you could thread a piece of steel bar, wind it in to it is finger tight, then mark where you can drill a cross hole, and use a 6mm shackel to attach a chain or what ever else you want. The connection can also be made with a long grub screw, with enough sticking out to screw on the adaptor for a lifting something. You have room for at least a piece of 12mm something. You could also modify a capscrew , put a 6mm thread on one end, skim down the socket head(if it is too big) then drill the crosshole for a shackel also. Neil
|Thread: Controller for a 3 axis lathe|
I am looking at Centroid controllers for my next project. They seem to do one that allows the unit to be configured for a lathe. Not cheap, but looks to be a really robust system, the one on the converted Bridgeport that I saw was , and was a neat tidy conversion. They also have a cheaper option for DIY as well.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 VFD Controls & Clutch Switch|
What is making that high pitch noise in the video's ?
Is that why you want the motor turned off ? or is there some other reason for the constant start stop of the motor?
Yeah the forward reverse and the breaking rate control and the acceleration rate control is just great with a VFD, and the programmed settings that can be made really is awesome. Mine is just box on the wall above the lathe, with the original on off forward reverse switch, is just doing the remote feed off the controller. So the original switch does on forwards/ Off/ On Reverse. The variable aspect is on the adjuster pot mounted on the front cover of the box. Then I have a micro switch that I attach with a magnet , that when activated, turns off the forward control. Then when I switch to reverse, it starts up and runs back. I use this for my thread depth stop when screw cutting inside parts. And now also use it for outer threads as well. Takes away the guess of when to stop. I don't run my S7any quicker than the 60hz in low drive top belt, so something like 700 rpm is the max I run. But the spindle is adjusted to give me the lowest possible error of roundness and spindle movement for trimming my pistons.
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