Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Anti seize grease on Myford spindle nose?|
There is no down side to using a small amount of anti seize grease. There are numerous antiseize compounds out there. Common are copper or graphite or nickel based greases. There are non metalic ones as well, like the marine antiseize. It is great stuff and I think a little cleaner than the metalic ones. They all have their special uses. Anitseize is good , especially when you are not using the lathe lathe often or not going to be changing the chuck for along time. I had my lathe in storage for 3 years and put some antiseize on the spindle of my S7. The chuck was not difficult to change. It may still have been the case with a light though, who knows.
|Thread: Solar panels for water heating|
A guy in Hamilton made a rotating solar shed. He used a sensor of some sort, that moves the unit when the sun has moved more than some amount of angle. When the sun shines it rotates to that angle then stops. In the evening it rotates to a place to catch the sun in the morning around 8 or 9 am sun position. Before that , there seems to be very little energy being captured. Like 2 hours before sunset, also very low energy. He found keeping the panels clean was very important.
|Thread: Delapena Hone|
I just got my Delapena hone going today, after getting a new motor, belt, and making some replacement bushes for it. It takes all the Sunnen tooling from the Conrod or small cylinder hone machines. Did a quick test job on it tonight and now think, why did I wait so long to get one, and get it going. It needed a lot of cleaning, and quite some time to get it all working again. But very happy with it. Now to start looking out for more stuff for it. I also have to get the pump and filter going again as well.
This was the only posting I found on hone, as the search brought up phone, lol
I use a marker pen, and the airline to make it spray to where I want it to be.
Washes off with alcohol too.
|Thread: Gluing Aluminium|
When I made an engine mount for a OS Wankel rotary engine, I glued all of the frame with Purbond Al glue. It was a 2 part, with a brown activator on one surface, and a opaque looking glue to the other part. The pieces were glued end on. The instructions back in 1985 was to lightly sand then apply the activator as soon as possible after sanding. Then sand the other areas where the opaque gel goes, again apply the gel as soon as sanded. Then assemble within 60 seconds, and hold in place for a few hours until cured. I also made a curtain rail extension which lasted until the sale of the house in 1997. So lasted at least 12 years. The engine mount never failed in the life of the model.
|Thread: Griptru chucks|
I make mandrels for trimming pistons quite accurately. One advantage of having a grit true chuck , is that I can hold the mandrel and check that it runs true in the swash plane. Then I can put the piston onto the mandrel and then proceed to dial in the piston while adjusting the 3 tapered screws. With patience I can get it dialled in to 3 microns quite easily. I can not achieve this if I used a 4 jaw chuck and get the swash within the acceptable level needed for high performance model engines. In the grip true chuck, the part is held once and stays in that held position. The chuck just adjusts the radial runout. In a 4jaw, when the part is adjusted, the chuck jaw is released a little then another jaw is adjusted and the part moves, but does not stay in the same exact swash plane.
|Thread: Low head Cap Screws|
Some have metric sockets for metric keys, and some have sockets for imperial keys, even though it is a metric screw. Likewise some imperial screws come with metric sockets.
|Thread: Loctite For Delrin?|
I have used permabond products, who were the first to make a proper glue for aluminium alloys. Their primer works well with their cyano glues and tells you the correct clearance required for a max bond strength. In my experience the bond can not take constant shock loadings, so would need to have some mechanical means of retaining and the bonding to keep it assembled. A cue tip being glued to a delrin ferrule, will stay in place if they only did centre shots. As soon as side spin is put on, after a few, it fails. A cue tip that has a recess for the ferrule to spigot into the cue tip to mechanically secure any sideways movement, will stay adhered. Their polyolfine primer or pop is really good stuff.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 25/03/2021 18:10:04
|Thread: Noga Rotodrive|
I still have my original Noga from 1982 and still works well. Noga works really well, and to me is worth my money to buy a quality tool that easily does a great job of deburring. The knock off blades are junk and break. So I now juts buy the genuine ones. There is loads of accessories that still work with the early handles like I have, that have a multitude of deburring knives in it's handle. The rotodrive is really great to use. I only have the smaller one.
|Thread: 3-Jaw Chuck not running true - how to fix|
You want to check a lot of different sizes. The scroll on some early lathes is 8tpi so every 1/4 inch size will likely be the same runout. So 1/4 bar is often the same runout as 1/2 inch. But 5/16 and 3/8 are on a different part of the scroll. Is it the same when held by the full jaw length and at 1/2 the jaw length. Older chucks can have damage to the chuck body by gripping too tight on short pieces, and racks the jaws track in the chuck body.
Another option is to loosen the holding screws, and the spigot, then put Belleville washers under those screws or nuts. It will allow you to make small adjustments to the part being held , a bit like a grip true does, but without the adjuster cams.
|Thread: Digital Micrometer|
You can think that my thinking is flawed, but do the tests for yourself. You will be enlightened.
Many mechanical micrometers are still good after 10 years of service if they are looked after and cleaned and lubricated.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 18/03/2021 03:42:10
A 5 deg change in temp on a 0-25 micrometer will result in a reading error of 2um to 3 um . You can do that test yourself. Needed is a thermometer and take a reading at the temp it is at. Then hold in your hands until it has warmed another 5 dec warmer. Re zero and you will see the difference in the readings. As most things are relative, and not absolute, if you are measuring a steel part , and the total environment is around the same, so same temp part and same temp measuring instrument, the dimensions will still be correct if the mic was zero at that temp. Making parts to less than 5um always becomes a challenge, especially when they are larger than 30mm diameter and length.
|Thread: Flat bottomed hole with a boring bar - technique?|
We often make flat bottom drills, for the flat face of a hole. The only time it is bored, is if the bottom requirement for the flat face is to match another flat face that needs to shut out . Many years ago, you used to by flat bottomed 2 flute end mills. They also has straight sides. Different from the 2 flute slot drills that had a helix on the sides and a fishtail bottom geometry.
When taking a drill point or drill side to flat bottom, I normally touch on the hole edge at the top for the reference diameter. Then go down the wall at 0.1mm less than the diameter until it touches on the drill edge. Depending on the bar diameter to bore length ratio, will determine the speed, depth of cut and feedrate. When the bore length is deeper than 4 diameters of the bar, it will need to be running slower and smaller depth of cut. After the length is over 8 times the bar diameter, is when it needs to have a sharp edge and a small nose radius to reduce the cutting forces, and a slower feedrate.
|Thread: Antikythera Mechanism : New-ish findings|
I have been subscribed to Chris youtube site for quite some time. Initially I wondered what he was up to, then soon realised that the objective was to make to a certain degree an as accurate as possible replica. Using those methods most likely available in those days. Even making files, drills etc. Such a great journey. My biggest question has often been, why did they not make lathes with gear cutting capabilities until something like 1500 odd years later.
|Thread: tapered roller bearings|
I made a spindle and thought I could just buy tapered roller bearings. The spindle run out was 0.015 or so mm tir. It turns out that the bearings I bought were just the commercial grade for trailer wheel bearings. It was the concentricity of the inner and taper of the inner ring, as well as the roundness of the taper on the outer ring. At first I thought it was my housing not being true. I bought another bearing from a different batch and that was a lot better, but was 8um of TIR. So instead of messing around and reworking the bearing rings, I just replaced them with spindle grade angular contact bearings. Now it is less than 2um TIR so super happy with it. But the spindle grade are very expensive compared to the regular grade of angular contact bearings. Had I made it to the dimensions that are used in some milling spindles, then I could have got the right roundness and concentricity in a tapered roller bearing. The rollers that I checked were very good for roundness.
|Thread: Keeping track of tool inserts?|
If it needs to be a good edge, I check with a mini microscope-40X I think it is. Just a cheapy, but allows you to see the cutting edge in great detail. Some new inserts are not as good as they appear either. I will often mark the edge I am using. If it is chipped or stuffed, I generally hit that edge on the linisher belt to make obvious not to use that particular edge. On double sided inserts, I use one corner, then turn over and use the other side of that corner. So if it ever fails for what ever reason, you have got to use both edges, particularly with TNMG inserts, or the VNMG inserts.
|Thread: Harmonic drive.. Because I need another project...|
Thanks for sharing a great project.
|Thread: Machining phosphor bronzes|
One trick is to make the drill, cut oversize. Just slightly offset sharpen the drill. Some do work harden, and is a time when you do not want to be cutting dry. Water bases coolants are great for these sort of situations.The modern synthetic coolants have something in them that help in high pressure situations like drilling. A split point drill to the nearest you have and then bore from there. Step drilling does not seem to be as effective as drilling from solid. For a 12mm hole, use a 11.5mm drill straight in from the centre or starting drill. Pre drilling even at 4mm will make the material often work harden.
|Thread: Worn saddle fix. Is this a bad idea?|
I added constant oiling to my S7. I just change the viscosity of the oil until it works. Currently using ATF oil with a bit of lucas oil stabilizer. Works really well. With hindsight I should hav eused 6mm fitting instead of 4mm fittings. The 4mm is a bit restrictive with the oil. If i need a higher viscosity, it will need the bigger id tubing.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 02/03/2021 07:44:09
|Thread: Using a vfd for two machines|
I was going to look at running two machines off the 1 VFD unit and have a switch over switch. So at any one time, only the one with the switch would be running. After looking into it, gave up and just bought another VFD from China. They are the same brand and have been extremely reliable so far. It is a generic drive and works very well. Mine is are Rich electric from Taiwan but got it through an Aliexpress trader. The 1st one I bought local with the 3phase motor and the vendor set all the parameters for me. That's the one I use on my Myford S7.
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