Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Lathe Service|
Hi Roger, I had linked the wrong manual. The model L510s comes in two types, One that is NPN or PNP. Your one is PNP as the common connector is 24V. The ability to edit the above reply has gone. Will email the correct information for your drive, and the area to check with the motor plate regarding max current .
I am only seeing TM1 (NPN) control set up information in the manual, not the TM2 (PNP), nor do I see any switch for selecting NPN (TM1) and PNP (TM2).
|Thread: Speed Camera Flashes?|
Out here in NZ, they use infra red spectrum that the majority of humans can not see. So you get no flash or warning that you have been caught speeding. So its possible to get multiple speeding tickets in one day. Just a revenue gathering device. If it flashed like they used to, then anyone who sees the flash will slow down also. This reduced the number of tickets being given. Cameras are now a real source of revenue for the road transport divisions.
|Thread: Myford Lathe Service|
Here is the manual for your drive. Page 24 is a wiring schematic of the set up. Com and S1 is forwards, Com and S2 is reverse. Check that the 3 phase out of the L510 is correctly connected to the motor as well.
On page 42, the parameters page, if 1 is on the forward reverse parameter -00-01 , it needs to be 0 to get forward rotation from the main VFD panel on off and variable speed etc or the keypad as it is called.
You may need to get someone who knows about vfd controls to help sort out your system.
PS, I have sent you a PM with my contact details and further information.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 27/12/2021 21:29:45
|Thread: Yet another knurling question.|
Hi Robin, I started knurling a long piece of 3/4 inch brass and it did just like this example. This is a new to me knurling tool I used, so just loaded more pressure on and forced it to cut deeper, then it started to cut better. If you carefully on the bar left over, you can see the double cut marks. I did another piece and used the same depth setting that I had with the scissor type knurling tool and all worked like it should have. Iam making some knurled locking rings.
|Thread: Myford vfd|
It is the rate at which the breaking takes effect with the VFD. I don't know the rate at which it does it, but what ever the software does, it does it well. I started with a 1 second breaking time and just reduced it down and then set it to 0.2 seconds. Does not seem that long I know, but is what the software says it is. I did try it at 0.1seconds and the chuck did come loose but not unscrewed off. I only run in the lower of the 2 pulley speed ranges to the clutch, and tested it at 70 hz on the faster of the slower speed. So around 860 rpm is the max. It has never come off. As it goes faster, it does take longer to stop and longer to start and get to full rpm also. I set the acceleration and deceleration to the same setting number 0.2 seconds. When I have the 4 jaw chuck on with larger parts, I just screw cut slower, and then reduces the chances of things unscrewing. I try to keep the surface speed of screw cutting to under 40m/min surface speed, no matter the material. Steel I keep it to 30m/min or less.
|Thread: Blank Tee Nuts.|
I use countersink screws on the bottom of a piece of flat bar, and use m4 nuts to stop it unscrewing. I make them with a couple of screws at a centre distance to suit what I am holding on the cnc router table. The idea does not work if the mill table only has limited room on the ends to insert a T nut or T stud. Studs are not always the best option at times, so a variety of clamping methods is often a good way of holding many different things. Sometimes another option is to have some sacrificial plates. They get secured to the table, and then they have what ever sized threaded holes on the location needed to hold what ever it is that needs to be fixed.
Like Tug said, it does not take very long to make a strip of T nut stock, and then cut off what ever length you need. Then you have all the options needed as well.
|Thread: Myford vfd|
It was too late to edit, but here is the pictures of my VFD and the wires.
Close up of the S1 connection.
VFD Drive and wires. Red/black is wired to the microswitch and microswitch is normal closed.
3 way switch. Forward, stop, reverse.
|Thread: Kant Twist alternative?|
I bought my crab clamps back in 1984. The new sales rep had them priced per pair instead of each. I have since got a smaller pair of the Kant Twist ones, but are not the quality of the crab clamps from 1984. Some of the designs I have seen on here look to be better than anything I have bought.
|Thread: Myford vfd|
So on my VFD, the S1 out, is where the microswitch breaks the circuit. The micro switch is set to normal closed. When it opens, breaks the S1 and then only the S2 reverse direction can be used until the microswitch is closed again. For me, where this comes into its own, is for internal threading with a run out groove for the end of the thread.
The noise in the video is all from the gear train and the gear box. The motor itself , is very quiet and smooth running. It is smooth enough that the motor can be left running when indicating a work piece.
The VFD I am using has a lot more torque in the lower rpm ranges compared to the other VFD I was going to buy. I purchased the motor and the VFD from a company that used to match motors and VFD's for customers. But sadly they don't do that anymore. They still sell the equipment but are no longer doing the programming and matching of units. The motor does have a thermal over heating cutout. It has never activated yet from running for too long at low rpm and under too much load. So I guess I don't work it very hard at all.
Thanks Martin for the example of how to get a video link. Very much appreciated. By the way, Merry Christmas to all.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 24/12/2021 20:46:24
Here is my micro switch in action, cutting an M14X1.5P thread. The microswitch just stops the forward direction of the motor. It is running about 420 rpm or so and stops within +- 0.1mm each time, depending on the depth of cut or total load it is experiencing. I have been meaning to upload a video here but don't know how to. So it is on my youtube channel and the picture is from my album VFD-For-S7. If screw cutting at a slower speed , like 200 rpm, then the end stop position is alot more consistent. I had plenty of room for the runout so did not run it slower. The micro switch is screwed to a piece of delrin that has an 8mm stem that is help by the Noga stand. I can fine adjust the end point position if need be, ( like if I had the compound set at 60 deg and was feeding on the compound,) by using the fine adjustment knob on the Noga head.
This is a link to the video I have uploaded.
|Thread: Yet another knurling question.|
For longer knurl lengths, I normally start at the chuck end and finish at the tailstock end. I normally use coolant to wash away any micro bits of what ever. At the start I wind back and forth for about a roller width to see that I am happy with the depth or definition of the knurl then cut down the length. I normally run quite a bit faster than you did, around the 200 rpm range on steel that diameter. Sometimes the knurl does not quite work out due to the pitch of the form not matching the diameter. A bit like gears. If the diameter is too big the top of the teeth become very pointy. If the diameter is too small the top is very wide. I normally just hand feed the carriage when knurling.
|Thread: Myford super7 saddle / tight toward tailstock|
On mine I scraped the bed back to being parallel and used a micrometer to measure my progress. The saddle looked fine and made no changes to it. The tailstock needed to be adjusted due to the now wider slot and of course needed its centre line position to be corrected. It took a long time to hand work the bed and probably needs redoing again at some point as well. It was around 1997 when it was fixed. I have since added a gravity oil feed system to the lathe to keep oil between the saddle and the bed to compensate for the bed wear towards the headstock. Since doing that, it has been much easier to get very consistent results. I have been thinking about building up one side with thin turcite strip, but that stuff is very expensive and from what i have seen the thinnest available may still be too thick. Mine was not as badly worn as your one. The bed was about 0.1mm of metal removed from the thickest part. And it seems that the thinnest turcite is 0.8mm thick. So have to give it alot more thought. I just don't recall the amount of adjustment that is in there. I do wish that I had taken notes or pictures of what I did at the time, but didn't because I just needed it back together to be making some model engine parts. Funny how you think that you will remember at the time though. Micrometers are not that expensive either these days, and as it is more of a comparator than an exact measurement that is needed, any micrometer will make the measuring easier than No micrometer. Mine is about the same vintage as your one by the sounds of it.
Good luck with the restoration, and will be nice to hear what you decide on doing to repair it.
|Thread: Digital Caliper - again, sorry|
I have had a very good run with Insize digital calipers . I got some about 6 years ago now, and are still just fine. I recently bought a smaller 4 inch set to use, instead of the 8 inch that I got 6 years ago. Just makes it easier to check things on the lathe or mill. If I need to be more accurate than 0.04mm on length or diameter then use different measuring equipment. I manly use them to check that something is not grossly wrong, ie 1 turn short of a dial somewhere etc.
|Thread: Pulse Jet Petal Valves|
The best ones are water jet cut from spring steel stock. The petal thickness depends a bit on the fuel being used as well, so some have 0.006 inch, 0.007 inch and 0.008 inch thick spring steel petals made. The hobby king petals work quite well for the standard or the sport jet class to 150mph or so. To go faster requires testing with other material thicknesses and keeping records of the day temps and humidity.
Laser cut ones are not as fast as the waterjet cut ones . It maybe due to the very small heat distortion from the cutting of the petals from the laser.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 11/12/2021 00:36:11
|Thread: New Micrometers|
What I do like about mechanical micrometers is their are no batteries to leak and fail the tool. In saying that, I recently did buy a digital depth micrometer, for the purpose of using it like a comparator. I don't think it matters all that much , if electronic or mechanical, as long as you can make the parts you want to. Gauge block sets are in the very affordable range now, with many coming with a certificate of accuracy for each block. So with a good set of gauge blocks and repeatable measuring equipment, new cutting tool technologies, now more than ever, allows home users to being able to easily make interchangeable parts.
|Thread: Hardening gauge plate (O1)|
I heat the O1 and gauge plate to hotter than bright red, it is actually an orange colour and allow time for the heat soak etc, then Quench in oil. You need quite a lot of oil, as if the oil heats you will loose it's peak hardness. Getting 63Rc is normal hardness range. This is how I did the hardening of my outer ball bearing races for a bearing that is no longer made.
|Thread: Material selection or additional process|
Using a high tensile steel like 4340 or the similar high tensile will last a life time. When milling the flats, I suggest using the side of the cutter , as it creates a nice radius in the corner. If you use a #2 centre drill, but shorten the front of the centre drill so it only has 1mm or so parallel section before the 30 deg taper starts. Then you can use the centre support o=if need be when milling the end. Keeping the inside of the square drive of the chuck very clean will make the new pone last a very long time. I suggest that you make one with a T type handle for final tightening up, but be aware of over tightening on the jaws. The other I would suggest is 2 more but shorter in length and with about 30mm or so round handle for adjusting two opposite jaws at the same time for a quicker indication of parts. The shorter 2 can be made even from mild steel as there will not be a great deal of torque applied to these smaller ones.
|Thread: Hardinge HLV H|
Does your lathe have the threaded nose, or the Taper nose on the lathe main spindle.
|Thread: They see you coming|
Toyota had to secure the mats in my car after an event where the floor mat kept the accelerator pedal depressed. I was told that the car was fitted with after market floor mats and Toyota was not responsible. I pointed out that the driver side mat had the official Toyota emblem on them . Toyota NZ did a recall on my model car where they supplied the mats with the retention pieces to stop it sliding forward and ever jamming again.
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