Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: KX1 CNC Mill Clearance Offer|
I find it interesting the new software with high speed machining . Even though at times the cutter seems to be cutting too much air, in some cases it actually becomes faster and better for the machine tool life. One example is we had a part and the corners has a 0.5mm radius. The software used to slow down and then speed up trying to get around the small radius. The new software as it came off the end of the part did just over 1/2 of the radius and did a circular path then entering and finishing the other 1/2 of the radius and then goes down the next side. The machine did not bump around as much, the part looked nicer, and the time to make it was actually less. Not what I was expecting at all. Have fun Jason
|Thread: Sizing an M2 thread during screwcutting|
The copper works well as does the split nut method. On very small stuff like the M2 thread I have found that a thread mic with the anvils, not the points to be the best. The biggest problem I find with small threads is the variation in the taps themselves and the thread that is in the nut. As for fine wire, music shops sell the wire in 1 thou diameter increments. I buy sets of wires in a selection. Its what I make my circlips from for the model engines .When I used to make up wire for thread measuring , I left it very long, and looped it around and had tow on top and two on the bottom. As it was hinged it sort of stayed together. Another guy I worked with made his like a coil spring. It was just 2 loops. These he put tooth picks for handles on and would unwind the spring to fit over the thread form. This was for M3 and M4 LH threads for inserts. Both worked well, but the thread mic is quite fast. Down side to a thread mic is the purchase cost of the anvil sets. What I do like about the thread mic, is that you can make different anvils to suite differing applications , IE ball anvils etc.
Trying to get concentric threads I had always found difficult. So one way was to modify some taps, and on the lead in area, make it very close to the drilled size hole. This make it into a piloted tap, and that has solved a lot of issues for me. I use it to get the start of the thread form concentric, and then follow through with the regular tap.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 25/02/2019 18:32:51
|Thread: 3 Jaw self centering ER chuck|
It is a easy way to have an auto collet closer using the 3 jaw chuck.
Hey John, I like it. That is quite a trick setup , especially the fact that the chuck has a limit on the opening.
As for accuracy I am sure it is better than 0.01mm if the collet is a precision collet. For it's application with full contact engagement in the collet looks really good to me.
It would also lend itself to the use of distortion collets as well. Very interesting.
I might have to make up a set of jaws to allow this to happen.
|Thread: Quick change tool holders for Myford lathe|
I got some holders from RDG last year. Very happy with then and they fit the Original QCTP bodies that I have. I have 2 genuine and one clone. The RDG holders fit all 3 tool post blocks. Not super cheap, but I consider buying them was better than me setting to and making them. These RDG holders are way better than the clones, and are very repeatable. Lucky I only have 3 clone holders in total, so are set on tools that I use occasionally.
I just went to the RDG site, but the holders I got last year I do not see them now.
|Thread: Micrometer woes|
Apple cider vinegar will help with the corrosion on the parts from the degregrading foam.
I have not found a foam that does not break down over time. The best I have found is wool felt for a liner.
|Thread: Thread locking|
A drilled hole with a piece of weed wacker nylon, works very well as a mechanism for keeping a screw or a nut from loosening off. An alternate to the nylock nut. A Ø2.6mm hole is plenty of clearance for the 2.5mm line X 3 to 4 mm deep. Make the nylon about 1/2 of the thread height. It will squash up and make the screw tight to turn.
|Thread: Batch turning small parts to tolerance|
When I was making a series of parts with a thread and a 45 deg taper that was a fit to another part, I made a series of tool stops. So I faced the end of the bar, then tuned the Ø6mm length based on the tool stop that touched the end of the part. Then when the diameter stepped up to 9mm , the length was on the step of the tool stop,and again touched the end of the work piece. The final diameter of 13mm and and allowance for parting off, was the last step in the stop bar. So it is progressed a bit like a wood workers tool. The taper turn tool had some of the material removed already, and again had its own tool stop that referenced off the end face of the part.
It worked really well, and is only as good as the stop is set / made. The down side is if the radial distance is too close, it becomes not a very practical of an option.
The Parting tool used a stop as well. When the part was at about 3mm to go, the stop had worked its way off the diameter of the end detail, so it was free to fall and not jam up on the parting tool. My lathe does not have DRO. From batch to batch, these parts were quite accurate. As long as there was no swarf on the end face etc, and no pip at the centre. I normally where ever possible, leave a centre drill spot on the end faces. That way the tools never have to turn to zero when facing, Makes all your tools so much longer , on harder materials for sure.
It looks to me , that part can all be made using a MDT , multi direction Turning tool. Looks like a parting off blade, but has side clearance to be able to takes cuts left and right. If both ends are the same diameter, you can plunge cut the outer end, then go in to the 1st shoulder length and cut to finish diameter and traverse out. Skim the od, then plunge cut the back shoulder, and the remainder of the back material, then part off.
Without knowing the stock you have and material etc. But with the above approach is quite easy on a Myford, If you have decent digit read out, it will be even easier.
Keep in mind, that with most digital readouts, you need to be still going in the same direction every time to get really good results. A bit like taking away the backlash on a lathe nut.
|Thread: ER32 Collet Chuck|
So, if you now have it correctly registered on the spindle nose. Also you have re turned the inner 8 deg taper per side. If this is correct, then the next area of error is the thread for the nut. If the thread for the nut is not concurrent to the 8 deg taper, it will not work correctly either. The thread will be a 1.5mm pitch thread. So can be recut again with care.
Then you have the collets and collet nut itself to sort through.
As simple as the ER system is , for it to work properly, it all needs to be concentric and true.
|Thread: New collets. Bankrupt now.|
When I do up the ER series bigger than ER16, I do it up with a tap with my copper block on the end of the spanner. Then I put the spanner on 180 deg and do it again. Sounds silly I know, but I have found this to create the most consistent results. Another company that make really good ER series collets, is the Big company from Japan. But their collets are over twice the price of the Regofix ones. I do find that the C spanner does not do the initial tighten to be as good as the mutli tooth ER spanner. However, when tapped from each side 180 apart, they seem to be the same result. I also found that some ER nuts are alot better than others for getting a consistent result. The Hex nut on my ER20 spindle, seems to be very good, even if only tightened from one side. A bad nut can cause a runout of 0.02mm easily , when a good one will result in a runout better than 0.006mm easily with the same collet and test piece or cutter. The part I don't fully understand ,is that the bad collet nut will often have the same run out at the nut face, but measuring the bottom of the pin, so like 30mm away, is where the differences are really noticed. The pin can be tapped to run true, but my thinking is, if it can be tapped true, it can chatter out of true as well. I have not found a Bad Regofix nut yet. The cheaper copies have definitely been the ones I have seen issues with, especially the bearing nuts.
|Thread: Ball bearing spindles|
What you really want in a spindle, is a bearing where the inner and outer race and the swash of the race is as true as possible. There are tables for the precision that the outer and inner race is made to. Now sometimes you can pick up a standard tolerance bearing with its concentricity as good as a spindle grade bearing. But that is very rare.
|Thread: VFD recommendations|
I bought Eric drive VFD made by Rich electric. I only got this as the company that I got the replacement 3ph motor from sells them. Told them what I wanted to do, they matched the settings for my application, and then showed me where and how to adjust it. Like the ramp up or ramp down, start and stop. Also how to connect the microswitch for the stop with the carriage in the forward direction, etc
I have a few more now, and are very happy with these.
a picture of my lathe set up is in my album.
|Thread: Measurements from the past|
In Western PA, North of Pittsburgh, they use the term mills for thousands of an inch. Until then I had never known it to be referenced to linear measurement, but to volume like cc. As to its origins have no clue, but what has been mentioned does seem very feasible. I think James Watt made micrometers in 0.001 inch graduations in his time. So it has been around a while.
|Thread: Emco Compact 5|
The compact 5 is a home hobby mill. Not an industrial power house. But many fine parts have been made on one for sure. It's more set up time to mill stuff etc, but great fun, and very easy to set up from turning to milling. Like a lot of thing the accuracy comes from preperation and thinking about how you do the job. Depending on the accessories you get etc, but on a friends one, he can turn a part, transfer the chuck to the rotary table and then do the milling work, then back onto the spindle and part off the workpiece with everything done at the same setup. So some advantages there for a small number of parts. Like any machine if looked after will last many many years.
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
My friends fishing drone, can take a 1Kg Payload, fly 500m off shore at 20m atlitude, then drops the baited hook set, and fly's back and lands on the 2mx2m blanket that it took off from. It can be programed to have a higher return path, or the same height return path.
About the only way to safely bring down a drone is concentrated lasers. Some are pre programed now. Not controlled at all from the handset/ controller. Some use a GPS, or use the handset/controller for a reference position. There is no constant signal going to the drone, like a regular RC plane or the early controlled drones. So you cant just easily find the person controlling the drone, depending on the size and type of course. Yeah a drone into an aircraft does have the potential to do real damage. Firing projectiles at drones is almost useless , with a high certainty of what ever you are firing at the drone, also ending up where you dont want these pieces to land. Being as it is an airport, Lasers are the best solution, and should target the drone a safe distance from the runway as well as a known no fly zone. So drones near the vacinity should be automatically removed, and destroyed.
Governments have no clue for laws, as they themselves want and need drones in modern warfare.
|Thread: turning hardened steel|
If you have the TNMG16 tool holder, and get a tngg160402r-s pr1125 insert from Kyocera.
Another good insert is CCGT09T302MP-CK for the 09 holders or the smaller 06 insert CCGT060202MP-CK I have the tnmg16 holders and the ccgt06 holders and inserts.
These inserts will cut steel to 60 Rc at 30m/min surface speed and feed rate of 0.05mm /rev (2 thou) and a depth of cut max at 0.2mm Ø0.4 and finish passes at Ø0.05mm at 400 rpm to 480rpm . Use cutting oil or coolant.
If you have the 1/3 hp motor you may need to make the cuts at 0.1mm deep Ø0.2mm but keep at the 2 thou per rev feedrate.
These inserts can handle the interupted cutting as well.
|Thread: DNMG110408 & CNMG090308 Inserts|
Ron, the inserts that appear blunt work by generating a lot of heat, and plasticise the material. This plasterised material then shears off the stock, with the majority of the heat going into the chip itself. For this to work, it needs surface speed, and rigidity , and a reasonable depth of cut, anywhere from 50% of the tool radius and higher, or the nose radius of the tool in diameter as a minimum cutting depth/pass. Also the edge of the insert has clearance of around 5deg to 7 deg from the radius edge looking sideways.
Your brazed blanks came most likely with 0 to very little side relief angle on them. If you try and grind them on a green wheel, under a microscope there will be micro cracking of the edge and top surface. This micro cracking does not lend itself to very good cutting and shear and surface finish. If you diamond lap the edges, by hand very slow, but a diamond lap wheel is quite fast, the surface is very good and so becomes the surface finish.
For a lot of home / hobby lathes, the Aluminium grade carbides work really well on steel as a finishing tool and can take quite small cuts. The Al inserts do not do well when facing to the very centre, so where possible, put a dimple on the very centre to eliminate that part.
I have given up on negative inserts with my myford and now use ground positive geometry inserts , like the wonder inserts etc
|Thread: Removing Grit after Lapping Ways|
What lapping grit did you use? Like been said scrapping or flat filing will help. Stones and lapping compounds seem to always embed into cast iron. Unless it is hardened. Seldom these days is the cast iron hardened anymore. If soft iron, it is best to just re scrape the surfaces. Things like break clean and microfibre cloths do help. If you see black oil coming from the slide, you know that there is still some abrasive working in there somewhere. Ground slides can have the same issue, particles caught and embedded into the surface. Especially from a fresh dressed wheel that has not been cleaned correctly after dressing.
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