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Member postings for Neil Lickfold

Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Shipping to the EU - beware!
06/05/2021 10:13:32

I bought a Sunnen precision bore gauge from the UK. It was sent via UPS courier service. The package weighed 12 kg and was 148 pounds, but did arrive on a tuesday and was sent on thurday. So I was very happy to recieve the item so fast, considering the covid etc.

Thread: Unknown Micrometer make
05/05/2021 06:48:27

Posted by Chris Gunn on 04/05/2021 11:08:33:

Neil, I have a mike with a rectangular frame which is an "Elliot" make, but the barrel is different. dsc03646.jpg

What year was this one made? Looks kinda similar in the frame.

04/05/2021 04:29:52

I have an old unknown brand of 0 to 1/2 inch micrometer in 1 thou steps, 25 thou per revolution . Does anyone know what country it may have been made in, and what approximate years these were made? It does have an adjustable thread band, and the nut is split into 3. It also has a constant pressure ratchet on it as well.

Thanks in advance for any information about it.

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Neil

Thread: Machining titanium.
27/04/2021 01:40:52

Titanium is a very poor conductor of heat. Which is why it will work harden very quickly. Some say treat it like stainless steel, and to a point that is true. Sharp tools with relatively high feed rates. But you have to keep the cutting edge tool. So they use through coolant drills etc. The only way to keep the heat low Ti is sharp tools and going slow rpm. The carbide tools as long as they are sharp will last about 5 times that of a hss drill before it needs resharpening. Some coated drills like the gold coated , can pick up with the Ti. There is a coating for Ti and it is a browny black colour. The other coating is a silvery colour as it is a diamond like coating. Uncoated carbide works well too , if it is the shiny one for Al. As you drill it, it will feel a little tough but easy if that can make sence. Then when it starts to work hardend, it will feel hard to push the drill, and it will squeel a little too. That means that the drill is dulling off or the speed is too high or not enough coolant or feeding too slow. With a 5mm drill you want to feed from 2 thou per rev to 4 tho per rev. On at 400 rpm you will be drilling at a feedrate of 1-1-/2 inches per min (40mm per min) to 3/4 inches per min(20mm per min) So your 8mm hole will be drilled in 12 seconds to 24 seconds as a guide example.

Neil

Thread: Sunnen PG800 bore gauge
26/04/2021 21:50:41

All photo's are in my album Sunnen.

26/04/2021 21:49:40

dowels-inplace-large-side-assemble.jpglatch-open-tool-case-side.jpglatch-open-position.jpgclosing-latches.jpg

26/04/2021 21:46:59

My notes to friend who has a gauge like this, incase he needs to give it a clean etc.

Here are some photos of tools etc to repair the sunnen gauge. The wedge shaped piece of 3/16 rod is to undo the 2 latches that hold both sides of the cases together. These go into the case through the 2 top capscrew holes, from the head end. The side with the long taper, follows the outer wall of the case, while the shorter taper is against the latch. The turned section of the 3/16 rod is 3.8mm diameter(Ø0.15 inches) and about 1/4 inch long. Carefully insert the rod until it reaches the latch, and gently push. You will hear it click and clunk. The LH side latch is a bit restricted by the shaft for the setting lock. Both latches can be undone. Before the shells can can apart, quite a bit needs removing first.
The spring that runs through both sides needs to be undone or removed before separating the shells. 2 counter sunk screws in the base, and the end plates and the rods removed as well as the side tool holder. 2 screws securing the inner to the front only need to come off,if the smaller side shell is to be removed or the mechanism is removed completely. I used the 4 long capscrews as handles to remove the large side cover. There are 4 dowels in each corner, so may need a little wriggle to seperate.Great care is needed not to damage any of the very fine wires or the indicator arms/needles or the flexure spring assembly. Not shown in the pictures is the long piece of 3/8 unc threaded rod, to hold the mechanism as it comes out of the small side shell and is used to place the mechanism back into the small shell side.
Putting back together, after service/clean of the mechanism.
When the mechanism is mounted on the wood block and suiteable 3/8 screw,(for easier clean and service) eyeball the front 2 screws and see if the size adjustment handle and 1/2 bushes look like they will line up with the case.I used the 2 long screws to assist in the position. Adjust the handle until it does.
I used wood blocks to elevate the gauge to protect the gauge fingers from the bench for assembly and taking apart.
Using a bit of 3/8 rod as a handle, carefully place the unit into the case.Be mindful of the sprung flexure side on indicator arm side. Try to hold onto the solid part of the mechanism frame. It has to sit on the ledges in the bottom of the shell and you will see the other areas that need to align, like the key holes for the markers and the 2 front frame capscrews. Insert base mechanism screw loosely. Next stand upright and insert and just nip the front frame scews.
Set the latches to the open position, and insert the 4 corner dowels.
Place second shell on and loosely insert base mechanism screw.
Close the latches with a allen key or suiteable rod from the threaded insert side of the top two screw holes.
Insert the 4 long capscrews for the case and initailly just nip up. Tighten the front 2 mechanism screws and then 4 case screws. Then tighten the base mechanism screws . Check that the gauge moves from the finger.
Place the long spring in between the 2 floating plates. I used a piece of wire to draw it through after 1 side was attached. Then proceed to assemble all the other parts that need to be added.

26/04/2021 21:44:30

repeat-test-ring.jpgbent-needles.jpgdamaged-needles-needs-cleaning.jpg

26/04/2021 21:41:20

gauge-into-small-side.jpgsecuring-meter-screws.jpgwood-base-washers-handling.jpg

26/04/2021 21:30:23

adjust-test.jpg

26/04/2021 21:21:17

I bought through the online auction site a Sunnen PG800E precision bore gauge. It has a range of 5 thou total on diameter and each division is 0.000050 inches in diameter. From the sellers photo's I could see that it was all in good condition and working just fine, although failed inspection in 2017. The failure was due to many things it turned out. It had worn carbide measuring buttons, and also had a build up of oil and stuff and just needed a really good clean out and lube. On it's way to NZ from the UK, it has big thump and the 2 needles/indicator hands were very bent the same way.

They are designed to be serviced by Sunnen, and have a clever little latch that prevents you from opening them up. I made a key to go through the top cap screw holes to move the locking lever out and push it back to the opening position. Care was needed as there are on one side some very fine wires in the vacinity of the path. So care is needed to follow where the screws go. They are a rather simple and clever mechanisim inside. Then the 2 outer casing shells can come off. As it is a delicate thing, I used a piece of 3/8 UNC threaded rod to hold the mechanism as I took it apart. Did not take pictures of everything, but did take some pictures reassembling the unit and some of the mechanisim as well. pictures to follow. After the clean and straightening of the Needles it all works perfectly well now, and compared a known ring gauge setting with a mic and got the same result. Yes my work shop is air conditioned and is very close to 20c all year round. It was my treat in building the new house 2 years ago.

Thread: Machining titanium.
25/04/2021 02:03:56

Hi Robin, I use a low speed in the bandsaw for cutting G5 Ti, I use around 40ft/min to saw off. I don't use an older blade that has dulled. Use a new or new or new blade. You want low chlorine water and coolant. It only catches fire if it gets really hot and often there will be sparks or something like that. Never seen it catch fire with plenty of water based soluble oil coolants. I use the concentration of 8% to 12%. Where possible I use deionised distilled water for mixing my soluble coolants in a bottle. I drill with new centre point style drills. An 8mm drill I use 300 rpm or so. I use as a drilling speed of 8m/min surface speed and just use the squirt bottle for the coolant. Ti will work harden if you take too fine a drill feedrate, and if the drill dulls. I use about 1.5mm to 2mm pecks. For outer turning I use the coated CCGT inserts , with a coating for Ti,/ Nickel/ tough to turn materials. Ti like cutting with the positive very sharp inserts. I use R0.4 for roughing, and the R0.2 for finishing. As for turning speed I use 15 to 16 m/min surface speed or no faster than 720 rpm that my lathe is speed limited to. So for the 20mm bar , can take 0.5mm cuts/ 1mm diameter at 19mm I would run around 250 rpm, and feed at around 0.2mm / rev or so if you have the power and coolant from the squirt bottle or from the coolant tap.

Neil

Thread: End Mills and coatings
24/04/2021 05:09:18

There are coatings for some quite specific materials, so new coating for Al, other coatings for Stainless, others for Ti and others for steel. Then there is the coatings for cutting very hard materials as well.

Thread: Bearing tolerances
14/04/2021 11:04:24

Do you have the original bearing, or is this another bearing you have purchased?

Bearings can be made to order, and quite often for various reasons are made to a non standard outside diameter. It is often seen in model engines where the bearing may have a 23.03mm diameter outer race, or a 10.5mm inner race or the inner being 13mm and the outer being 23.5mm.

0.5mm wear on a cast iron housing is a lot and I would be looking for the real reason for the failure instead of the quick fix. Loctite does make a bearing repair material for taking up the gap of a bearing in a worn housing. But relies on the rest of parts to centralise the bearing as it sets.

As for being tolerances it is a mine field to look through. You have the concentricity of the inner race to inner bore, the outer race to the outer bore, the centre line of the race to the bearing width (can be ordered offset by specified amounts) the roundness of the bearing balls, the cage type etc. Then the internal clearance as well. WIB bearings make a lot of special order bearings for very reasonable prices. They have a lot of info about bearing tolerances etc

Thread: Anodising and Passivating
14/04/2021 10:50:34

Anodising has an electrical insulating effect as well. It is used as the insulating medium for aluminium made glow plug bodies. The post must have a non anodised area for the plug wire and for the electrical connection. Like wise the body needs either on the threads or the body seating area no anodising as well. An interesting benefit from the anodising.

Thread: Delapena honing machine
14/04/2021 00:56:15

Been on the bay to find used or near new hone mandrels and adapters etc. Now I know why they are not so popular. There is a conversion for the Superior honing system as well. None of it is cheap. Then the small 4mm to around 6mm are in increments of 5 thou or so in diameter, and they all need truing sleeves for good results. Then there is the selection of stones required as well. So I just got a few sizes that I will use for now.

The Superior system looks just great, but turns out , you need truing sleeves for almost every size if you want really good results. Like 3.98mm uses a different sleeve to 4.01mm , that sort of thing, even though it takes the same stone set. More suitable for doing larger volume of the same thing compared to the Sunnen or Delapena type of honing systems.

Also picked up a Sunnen hone gauge PG800E . It has a range of 5 thou in diameter and graduated in 0.00005 inches of diameter. They don't come up for sale very often so got it anyway. An extremely useful tool for model engine cylinder liner checking, for roundness and for checking taper etc. It measures from 3/8 to 3/4 (9.5mm to 19.05mm )and then the other side is 3/4 to 1-1/2 (19.05mm to 38.1mm ). The metric version of the gauge is the same gauge, but has a metric 0.001mm diameter graduations for the back ground strip and a range of Ø0.13mm. Mechanically is still the same machine. Next is to get the PG400 setting Fixture if I can find one for a hobby price. They are after all , really just a comparator device to make life easy while honing sleeves or car engine conrods etc.

Saw an engine recon shop, and they are getting the stone and rebonding to the older shoes for the sizes that they do not use very often and are more difficult to get. Some stone sets are only available is packs of 6 or 12 etc. SO I can now see why people are opting to just lapping and sticking at it. I also now see why the actual machine is the cheapest part of setting one up too. In saying that, I don't know where all the old machines and mandrels etc have gone to from all the engine reconditioning shops and the places that used to recon brake master cylinders etc.

Already used it to open up the inside of a quickchange tool post main block through hole to fit the centre post of a Hardinge lathe. Was very happy with it and how quick it was to open it up a small amount.

So keep looking for those who have them.

Thread: Finish
11/04/2021 11:15:32

There are other very sharp inserts with a 0.1 or 0.08mm radius that are very good for taking most of the cut in 1 pass. I will often leave 3mm on diameter for the last pass and use the 1st pass to take the outer skin off the stock and use it as a gauge for the diameter it is cutting at. Making a Vee block polishing tool , works a bit like an external hone. Allows the polishing while keeping the part round. Often patience is a good thing and not too high a rpm. Keeping the speed down, will keep the heat lower and less distortion of the part.

Thread: ER40 collet nut seized
09/04/2021 11:00:13

They can do this if the inner thread is not cleaned out before putting the next collet or cutter in the chuck. Even just changing cutters in the same collet size, you really should should take the whole nut off and clean it all out and check that the body thread is all clean too.

Thread: Anti seize grease on Myford spindle nose?
07/04/2021 20:42:18

There is no down side to using a small amount of anti seize grease. There are numerous antiseize compounds out there. Common are copper or graphite or nickel based greases. There are non metalic ones as well, like the marine antiseize. It is great stuff and I think a little cleaner than the metalic ones. They all have their special uses. Anitseize is good , especially when you are not using the lathe lathe often or not going to be changing the chuck for along time. I had my lathe in storage for 3 years and put some antiseize on the spindle of my S7. The chuck was not difficult to change. It may still have been the case with a light though, who knows.

Thread: Solar panels for water heating
06/04/2021 09:50:42

A guy in Hamilton made a rotating solar shed. He used a sensor of some sort, that moves the unit when the sun has moved more than some amount of angle. When the sun shines it rotates to that angle then stops. In the evening it rotates to a place to catch the sun in the morning around 8 or 9 am sun position. Before that , there seems to be very little energy being captured. Like 2 hours before sunset, also very low energy. He found keeping the panels clean was very important.

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