Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Slitting saw arbour|
The arbour I made , has the 25.42mm bore, that is 10mm deep. It then has a M8 tap hole a further 16mm deep.
The cap has the 25.40mm spigot, 8mm long, and at the shoulder, it is continued in an under cut way for 0.3mm deep, just a little more than the tool radius. The shoulder face is under cut out to about a 3mm land. In my case the arbour shaft is 19mm and the body is Ø40mm. I made it with the spigot on the nut, as the nut could then be thinner on the underside, and has the capscrew counter bored in it. Longer caps can be made for a gang of saws if required. Make the cap from a different steel to the body, so that it is less likely to pick up in any way. Like 4340 for the body and free cutting MS for the Cap.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 17/06/2019 20:26:16
|Thread: Hardening a form tool made from Gauge Plate|
Gauge plate needs to be bright orange in heat, Yellow is too hot , bright red is too cold. A low light room will give a better result than in day light or with bright lights on. Quench in oil is fine, you need enough oil, so that the oil does not get hotter than 30c or so, otherwise the volume is too small and the quench is inadequate. Temper in the oven at 150c to 180 c, or if heating with a torch when clean from any oil and dry, is a pale straw colour. Allow for sharpening of the edge after the heat treatment. The edge will be rounded off and burnt away from the heating of the part. If you have stainless gauze to wrap the part in for the heating will significantly protect the very sharp edges or corners. Best to remove the cage just prior to quenching, as it will hamper in the quench cooling.
|Thread: Need to drill a hole digital caliper|
If you get a chisel point tungsten carbide drill, run it at around 800 to 1000 rpm, take peck cuts and have compressed air or the vacuum cleaner hose close to the hole, will work just fine. When it breaks out the other side, is when you want to use the feed stop , and adjust it 0.1mm at a time or so, will give a clean exit hole as well. The stub carbide drills are not too badly priced if it is under 5mm diameter.
|Thread: How often do you oil your lathe ways?|
Here is what I set up.
Re threaded the M5 to the ba # of the oil points. I found that the length of the tubes needed to be the same, or else the shorter tube side got most of the oil.
Elevated to slowly feed down.
|Thread: Super 7 - Best way to use ER25 Collets|
I had the MT2 adapter. It was ok for just short things. I chopped off the MT2 part and just hold it in the 3 Jaw chuck now. Very happy with it. I can put upto 5/8 stock through the S7 spindle into the collet chuck if needed.
I also have the smaller ER11 on a parallel shank to also go into the 3 jaw chuck.I use the ER11 for stuff under 7mm diameter. The bigger parts go into the larger ER20 or ER32 holders. The collet size I use the most on the things I make is the ER11 and most used in the 3,4,5,6mm collets.
The face plate mounted collet block I did not like very much. What I did not like about it, was the bed going forward over the gap area of the Myford lathe. With the collet holders in the 3 jaw chuck, the saddle never gets to the edge of the lathe bed. The Mt2 part was turned into a stop for the 3 jaw chuck and Er32 collet adapter.
|Thread: How often do you oil your lathe ways?|
I set up a gravity oil feeding system to the ways on my Myford. I keep the oil pot full when in use. I lower the pot to bed level between using it. It keeps the ways wet, and I wipe it down with a paper towel often. Works very well.
|Thread: Which Qctp for mini lathe?|
Initially I had one of each type, and then settled on the Dickson type for all 3 lathes. I have since sold the wedge type . The wedge one was easier to make holders for, but was not as consistent for me as the dickson holder.
|Thread: Do you wear a mask grinding HSS tool bits?|
Continued exposure to grinding dust will give you miners lung. The same thing from wood working and car paint refinishing. It is all basically the same thing. Stuff getting into your lungs that will cause an otherwise early departure. I can recall a test being done with exposure to Beryllium from grinding and milling it, making injection tools in the early 80's. The grinding wheel dust from wheel dressing and the tungsten dust from making D'bits was the highest risks. When 1 cutter was resharpened, it could not show a particle count. Making a cutter from the blank was measurable on that day. Initially it was a 1 morning test, that lead to a 1 month test. In that whole time, they had no Be gas collected that they could measure. Loads of carbide, and diamond wheel and regular grinding wheel dust. Also lots of BeCu dust from the surface grinding, but no Be only.
It depends. If it is just a touch up of a tool, No.
Yes if it is taking a regular drill to a flat bottom , or vice versa, or making a new form tool from a blank.
The same for linishing, if it is just a very small thing and less than a couple of minutes , and a 1 off, Then No.
If I have lots of parts to linish, I wear a mask. Going to install a vacuum collection point on the linisher for the new shop though, and for the bandsaw as well.
|Thread: sieg mill: normal chuck or collet chuck?|
Basically drill chucks are for centre cutting tools like, drills, reamers and centre drills.
A collet chuck is a Milling cutter tool holding chuck. Collet chucks can hold milling cutters and other cutters as well, like slitting saws on an arbore etc. They can also hold very well drill bits and centre drills as well.
They both have their places. Collet chucks are a very good investment in the machine tool.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 - Cross Slide Problem|
Item 39 is a screw collar and has a little grub screw to secure it on the cross slide screw. This sets the back lash of the cross slide screw itself. If this comes loose , then the effective backlash on the cross slide becomes huge. Undo the grub screw about 1/2 turn. Then tighten it against the casting until the leadscrew does not turn. Then undo it a little bit , so that the screw can rotate. Do up the grub screw. If this clearance is correct, then it could be else where , like the screws of the casting being loose or the leadscrew nut screws are loose.
|Thread: ER collet chuck runout|
So I got some ER11 collet nuts. Had a piece that needed to run quite true. When I used one of the new collet nuts, it was out by more than 0.05mm. Used the genuine ER nut and it was fine.
So I set up made a spacer and checked the original with my set up and the taper on the nut ran within 0.01mm, the new ones were out by as much as 0.1mm. So I set up and recut the 30 deg front taper using the thread and the back shoulder as a reference. Picture shows the inverted bore tool and the compound set at 30 deg. Using a Regofix ER11 collet holder with the sleeve spacer for the nut to seat against.
I also set up and trimmed the outside with it just on the thread of the mandrel 1st. Cutting the inner 30 deg taper was a second op.
Now they are just as good as the original collet nut.
|Thread: Downloadable issues|
Thanks for the replies, I will try the pocket mags site.
Is there any way, that the magazine can be downloaded so that I can have a saved complete copy of the magazine on my Laptop.
That way, I do not need Internet access and can reference at any time a particular magazine. I want the adds in it, as often they advertise stuff and its becomes a useful source to support those who support the magazine.
Maybe the version that is downloaded can have a water mark added to the subscription owner or something to deter the odd ones that will share instead of getting a subscription.
The current system of being only online is so annoying, I am thinking of cancelling the electronic and only getting the physical magazines.
|Thread: 2mt Myford Collet|
There is a trick to making thin wall parts for sure. It is best if you have a tube of metal to go inside the bored hole for support back into the main piece of material. Then you can turn down the OD to suite. If it is a long bush say 50mm long, then a long bar with a centre support will be needed. Make sure it goes into the solid part by about 5mm or more if using a centre, and about 1 /2 diameter long if not centre supported. Then the OD can be measured as it is internally supported. Dont use the same grade of metal for the sleeve support, ie free cutting steel sleeve with a free cutting support. It can pick up. I use castor oil between the inner and support sleeve. With this method you can make parts that have a wall section of around 0.1mm, is the thinnest wall I have made. But with a 12mm sleeve and 12.7mm od, with sharp tools, the outer can be turned in 1 final pass of 14mm down to 12.7 . The heavy wall will self support the part for about 2 diameters long. After that it will want to fail. If the tools are not sharp enough, it will deform and make the inside smaller.
You can make adapter bush, and hold other cutter sizes using a close fitting split bush. The bush needs to be in your case 12.70mm diameter or slightly larger at 12.75mm OD , with an ID of 12.00 max and a min of 11.96mm. The bush will need to be split.
|Thread: DRO Z-Axis /4th axis "combiner"|
I have a 3 layer read and also want a scale on the column. This will be useful indeed. Thank you so much for sharing.
|Thread: Cheap DRO for Mill|
With a DRO, look at what you are requiring from the unit. Some have a much nicer and user friendly interface than others. If it is just to pitch holes and replace the normal dials on a machine tool any dro will do. If you want to cut curves, or put a row of holes on an off square axis, then look for a dro that has the lines of information that will show a radius value or and inclined layout. Some cheap dro that have these sort of features are like this one.
**LINK** You will have to do a search for the tech-3i manual. Anyway one feature I do like about it is the Radius feature for the odd job that does not require the resetting of a rotary table. My kit came with the 5um glass scales and are very happy with it. There are cheaper units, but I have not seen a cheaper one with the data line.
Most will have the reference thingy in them for if the power goes off and the axis is moved while the power is down. This will set back the reference again, assuming you used it to start with.
The one I really liked the best is from Newall DP1200, but that unit and scales is work more than my mill, but is really user friendly, and has a great graphic interface when the tool is approaching the zero point etc. It is what is on the lathe at work.
|Thread: Machining a long part|
Like been said, more is needed to be advised correctly. Does the detail require any radial alignment?
So simple sliding fixtures can be made to hold and support parts that need detail at the end of a long workpiece.
There is numerous ways of indexing a length etc.
|Thread: Z Axis-Support|
Dave, here is a link to info about gas struts, **LINK**
Anyway, it does appear that there is no Logic to Nm on the labelling. The strut is pressurised and that is measured in N force , or KG force or Lbs force.
Nm is a torque measurement, like ft lbs is a torque measurement as well.
Hope this helps people in the future.
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