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Member postings for Neil Lickfold

Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Machine Lamp Recommendation?
04/09/2021 23:00:39

I have had recently a few rpm where the chuck at work , looks to be slowly turning backwards. It never happened when I had the pair of fluro tubes above the machine. But they got replaced with a pair of LED replacement for the twin fluro tubes. I talked to my son about it, and he said most likely, all the led's are turning off and on again with the frequency of the AC current. He explained that the leds are flickering like a single incandescent light. I took my Futaba optical tacho to work and it shows 3000 rpm, or 50hz reading. He said most leds will have a frequency that they work at, even driven from a dc source. So I tested our led torch and it varies from 25hz to 60hz . My wifes phone led shows no frequency however.

At home I have above my S7, the 5 foot LED equivalent of a duel fluro light. It is positioned so that the front lamp tube is on the centre line of the lathe . I have no shadowing to speak of. I also have an lep lamp on a flexi neck, for looking down inner bores. It sits inline with the tailstock and is about 1/2 a m back, so not in the way. It gives me more than enough light for everything. I only run in the low speed from the motor to the clutch, so max is like 700 rpm or so for anything I make. Any frequency of the light issues I have never noticed in my home shop.

Thread: Threading myth .... busted!
02/09/2021 12:03:42

I like the Hardinge style of setting the top slide at half the thread angle. You move the cam, the tool retracts. While it is going back to the start, you can wind on the next cut with the cross slide or just use the topslide infeed dial until you get to full depth. On my Myford I like the 1/2 thread on the top slide method. It allows for more room when a piece needs to be supported by the tail stock for example.

Thread: Getting accuracy with my newly added DRO.
23/08/2021 20:37:44

Some DRO installations are better than others. Some are installed with long extensions from something not very solid ,using a collection aluminium brackets. These I have seen can cause issues. The solution was to use a shorter steel bracket and that got rid of the errors that were occurring with the short travel back and forth. Like when you wind on or off by less than 0.2 mm of stroke. In the case I saw, wound clockwise, then zero. go past and wind back, and the reading was still zero, but the indicator reading was 0.03mm out . With the shortened steel bracket in place, no detectable error was measured using normal shop indicators or tools.

I have never seen an on size carbide milling cutter yet that is made from the nominal carbide stock. Off sized cutter I have seen are on size or sometimes marginally over sized, like a 9mm cutter on a 10mm shank, or a 5mm cutter from 6mm stock.

Most places will take cuts measure , then compensate accordingly.

Thread: Clinging to the Past
20/08/2021 12:30:51

MichaelG I was only quick on that , as where I work, a lot of parts are designed using the PCD for the hole spacing. Particularly when a sheet metal part was needed to be made by marking out. Sadly that designer has since passed away, but a lot of his drawings crop up from time to time along with the old tools to be repaired. Most modern stuff is just XY coordinates these days, if you are lucky, otherwise it is all left on the 3d model of the part. Using basic hand marking out tools the PCD or the PCR method is very easy and effective with quite remarkable results being achievable. I find it interesting to being able to turn finished pistons on my old Myford lathe, that most need to lap or do some other method. I only have the digital depth on the tailstock, otherwise, everything else is all old school of winding handles or dials at the right amount to a clock ticking.

Thread: going carbide on a Myford
20/08/2021 12:14:41

What I forgot to say is, that these new very sharp tools that are available today, allow such precise cutting that was very difficult to achieve in the past. There are very sharp PCD inserts that will allow sub micron cutting in stable non ferrous materials. The carbide inserts will allow 1 micron to be taken as a cut off steel. Granted these are not easy to achieve , but are possible in the right conditions. Some of the new coatings are designed to be used dry. No coolant at all, which I find very interesting in itself, and also handy for the home shop at the same time. The latest insert technology is not priced in the unaffordable range either, generally in the same range as the previous coatings etc. Like the new ccgto9 inserts are still at $18nz for the new coating insert that now lasts longer than the previous coating inserts .

Thread: Clinging to the Past
20/08/2021 08:02:19

MichaelG In your example it is 2-5/8 PCD

20/08/2021 07:57:22

Well old fashion toolmakers who know how to refit new parts to a hobbed or used part are very thin on the ground now. The young ones make the part to the cad model, but have no idea about making it fit and bluing in the parts.

Thread: going carbide on a Myford
18/08/2021 11:01:57

There are new grades of carbide coming out all the time. The latest ones are very sharp and are extremely good for finishing and you don't need high surface speed or high RPM to get a good finish. I don't use the high speed range on my S7. I have a TNMG holder, the only negative holder I use. But use the positive inserts for that holder. Ones for steel and ones for aluminium. Lately I have been using what is sold as a wonder insert out here. See .my album. They work very well. There is a new range of ground coated inserts that are very sharp and are excellent for roughing out as well. When they dull from finishing become roughing inserts. The CCGT09 and the CCGT06 inserts I use in my boring bars and external turning tools. The DCMT11 is only for the outer turning. Here in NZ quite a few of the tool companies will sell one or 2 inserts to the home hobbyist. I only use HSS for form tools that are for a specific project.

Thread: Knurling tool
07/08/2021 03:17:42

Cheapy tools can sometimes turn into an apprentice training exercise over a few weekends to fix properly. Sometimes you just end up with the hardened or the more difficult parts to make, and then completely remake or find some other way to make the tool to be functional as intended. Sometimes things need spacers, or clearances for pivoting , or pivoting washers, etc

Thread: is a belt sander any good for hss tooling
28/07/2021 08:40:32

For precision and nicely ground hss I use a white wheel stone. In a hurry I have used a linishing wheel to blank out a form, but finish with a hand lap stone or a fine white wheel.

Thread: Valve Run Out Gauge
27/07/2021 07:06:21

That gauge is not going to show you what bearing blue will. The seat will be ground off the guides anyway. Being a 1 thou resolution , is very course for concentricity for valve guides to valve seats. I don't understand how you can't see if a seat is not evenly ground, sorry.

Thread: Shock at low pay for high skill
12/07/2021 10:31:42

In NZ, milk tanker drivers earn more per annum than toolmakers do. Not saying there is no skill in driving a tanker, but it certainly does not take 4 years.

05/07/2021 20:17:10

Over time, the skilled turners and millers have lost in wages I view cnc and cam as part of the turners and millers tool box. It used to be 3x the minimum wage, now it is close to 1.5x minimum wage. Mainly due to cheaper overseas companies and their fast turn around. My son got some work quoted, and then a place in Asia could do the job of 10 parts, and deliver within 1 week for 1/2 the price of getting a local shop doing the job, based off a large batch. Now with the flight restrictions some of those places can't deliver in time is creating work locally. But wages are not going up. The current attitude is you are lucky just to still have a job.

There are a few places that pay well, they have a low turnover of staff too.

Thread: Yet another scam
14/06/2021 20:17:21

We have been hit by phone scams. +67655 77017 , 82385, 94423, 94130 , 94701 , 93226,

They all come from the above area code, and the last 5 digits changes. The 1st 4 were in one day alone. They call, and then hang up quite quickly in the hope you will call them back. Then they make money by charging your account on the call back. I did answer one as I was right by the phone. The hung up of course immediately.

They do this to land lines and to cell phones.


Thread: Slipping ER25 collet and best practice
10/06/2021 20:29:24

Make sure that the cutter is in the collet to the full length of the collet or the length of the diameter of the cutter. Some collets are counter bored from the back. Some ER holders or spindle adapters also have end stops provided or a thread to make one as well. They are to set the cutter to the same length when changed. Also will stop a cutter moving back into the collet. You almost can not over tighten the ER25 collet assembly with the 2 spanners provided. Their max closing torque is very high.

Thread: Reilang oil cans, fit for purpose?
08/06/2021 11:39:22

You can buy quad rings which are square section orings and in Viton. As far as I know, most oils won't break down the Viton rubber. They come in 2 hardness grades as well, around 90 shore the harder one, and around 70 shore the softer one. They used to be different colours as well, but I think they are all black now.

If you figure out how to stop it leaking around the pump handle I will be all ears.

I found the source of the leak for mine in the patent drawing. There is no seal between the lifting rod of the pump and bushing that it runs in. So I guess over time it wears loose or was a bad initial fit, but mine is very old. So the oil will leak out of it over time. I am thinking that it has a certain amount of clearance to allow air back into the can when the oil is pumped out of it, and that the length of the bushing allows for when it falls over, not to leak straight away. So my problem is solved, thanks to the patent drawings.

Thanks, Neil

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 08/06/2021 11:49:37

07/06/2021 20:28:52

Is it leaking from the thread seal, or is it leaking from around the pump lever when placed on it's side?

Mine has to be stored upright. I have no oil cans that can be stored sideways. Mine all leak from around the pump lever.

Thread: Hydrogen home heating
19/05/2021 11:37:25

When I hear about Hydrogen gas supplies, I think of the Hindenburg .

Thread: Open Technology Lathe Idea
15/05/2021 15:31:29

Having made my own spindles for a Cue making lathe, I can tell you, it is cheaper to just buy a machine and rework it of need be. In my case, no one was offering an ER40 collet spindle for the Taig based cue making lathes that were on the market at the time. I also made a second one that takes the 5c collets. Again, would have been far cheaper to have bought it of they were making them at the time, but 10 years ago that was not the case.

I have not seen the video, but from what is being described, it won't be precision at all. There is a reason that commercial machines are expensive, as there is a lot of time goes into checking parts etc and they need to be made on accurate machines. Yes people can scrap slide etc, but that take time and is a highly skilled thing to learn.

To get good precision from the mini lathes etc, they work best when they are at an even temperature. Yes some cheaper lathes need some attention to make them right, but the time you spend correcting what little may not be right or it maybe and your not aware of it, is still far quicker and more accurate than a scratch build. I had a cheaper lathe, stripped it down, stoned some of the bed area that was a little rough, recut the saddle plate with the cross slide dovetail,(it was a little out of square) and then recut the top slide dovetails as well, not parallel, and now have a very accurate machine for facing and for cutting short tapers with the refurbished top slide. This is all way quicker than starting from castings or fabricated parts or from 3d printed metal parts.

Keep thinking and see where you end up. There is a plethora of lathe ideas out there that people have made. But all of them cost way more than any mini lathe I have seen for sale.

Thread: Myford Super 7 lathe upgrade to 3 phase
14/05/2021 23:02:26

The VFD for my S7, has setting for acceleration and decelleration and was set for me initially from the shop that sold both the VFD and the motor. They highlighted the settings page so that I could adjust them if required. I also added a micro switch for when I am thread cutting. It will stop the motor and decellerates nicely and is very consistent in the depth at which it stops. I always have a thread relief when thread cutting, internal or external. I use the original Myford switch box and use the on off switch for the direction the motor is running in. The box itself is mounted away from the oil chips etc. It is at eye height when using the machine.

I do like the compactness of the one unit you have and how quick and easy the whole installation was from start to finish. Mine took more than a day to install the 3phase motor alone, but the hook up of the unit was plug and play like you have. Sadly the guy at the shop I bought my set up from is no longer working there, so the service of getting a pre programmed vfd for the motor and application is very much being missed.

A great video as well.

Thanks, Neil

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