Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Disposal of dangerous chemicals/substances|
If there is a company that does Aluminium annodising or Ali powdercoating they may want to take it from you, HF acid is used in the pre treatment before the alodine or similar treatment is used. If they only buy in ready to use acids, then your best bet will be a chemical supply company that make such solutions.
Companies that do Aluminium Hard Chrome plating also use HF acid in a pretreatment process as well.
|Thread: Myford Lever Collet Chuck thread|
Andy, The Er32 collets are really only any good when the pieces are the full length of the collet or more than 3/4 collet length engagement . The Myford will hold very short pieces and be very stable. I know loads of people love the ER32 systems, but for short small work pieces, in my view are not a good choice. My Grip true chuck is more accurate than the ER32 was for my lathe.
Mine is that type. I set the stud at the back, so that the lever is floating between the upper and lower bush if that can make sense. These are a dead length type collet chuck and only have a very small working diameter range. At least my one is at any rate. If the bar is more than 0.10mm or so smaller than the nominal size, my one does not hold it very well. I tighten the front nut and then the lever opens and closes it. If you really need to wind on the nut to close down onto the stock size, I would be thinking that the stock size is too small for that size collet. I made a few collets, nothing flash, from just 4140 steel I had at the time. I just hack saw spilt mine 4 ways, it was easier than trying to do the 3 way split thing. They worked very well and was very repeatable. It is not as accurate as a Hardinge 5C collet, but is still very useful all the same when making a batch number of small parts .
The collets have not been available out here for quite some time now.
|Thread: Blackening mild steel|
When I was blackening tooling, I used sodium Nitrite, the very same product that is used as a bacon/ham/salami preservative. I did mention that it was dangerous if you were not careful. I also mentioned that if your procedures were such that a part could free fall or splash going into the hot mixture, you are doing it wrong.
As for the disposal of the very caustic residue, you either have to get it neutralised by an acid, or take it to a place to be disposed of. Where I was blackening the tooling, they also had an acid process. That required it to be neutralised. The waste of the old blackening bath was used to neutralise this acid. So it worked out very well.
What I detailed is not new and was not a copy and paste from a web site. I cam across a site that was basically doing what I was so posted that link.
There are commercial caustic metal black available to buy. They add to the recipe I gave a few other things, but what I posted works very well and is relatively very cheap and easy for someone to set up and use.
One other thing, keep Chlorine away from the mixture and fluoride , distilled water works very well. I used an infra red thermometer to keep a watch on the temperature. But after a while you get to know the bath and when to add a little more Nitrite or Caustic soda or water. Water you will add at the beginning of each days use, and you have to keep a watch on it, even if you are not cooking with it every week.
Much cation is required, but a hot black process is easy enough. Requirements are a stainless pot/container big enough to hold the parts. Then you mix equal parts Sodium Nitrite, with dissolved, Sodium hydroxide,pearl grade with water. Mix the 1 litre volume of water with 1 litre volume of sodium hydroxide, very slowly, it is extremely caustic. After mix, then carefully and slowly add the sodium Nitrite.
Clean parts thoroughly, with some dish wash liquid and water. Then heat the mixture slowly, until about 140 degC then place the parts in the simmering liquid for about 10 to 15 mins. If the mixture boils too high a temp add more water,after it has cooled down to room temp.Never add any water when it is hot. If the temp is too low, then just let it boil longer. Too low a temp and after 10 mins it will not be black or will be a light brown colour, if too hot, the part will come out with a red brown colour.
Quite a few gun smiths use this method for steel blackening.
As I said , safety gear is required and extreme care is needed. Make sure that your method of putting the parts into and out of the pot can not accidently drop in or splash any fluid what so ever.
Only use mild steel or stainless steel wire and mesh pots to hold parts. NEVER allow any Aluminium or Magnesium or other metals that can react to caustic chemicals.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 09/09/2015 12:17:19
Found this website with warnings and his formula, he used Sodium Nitrate instead of Nitrite.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 09/09/2015 12:28:19
|Thread: Multiple machines from one inverter|
With the inverters I have, they are programmed for the specific motor rating. So in my case, the motors need to be the same, then I could do that. However all my lathes have different motors, so I have just gone and got separate vfd's for each machine. A lot more convenient and no more reprogramming or switching plugs etc.
Just turn on and use.
|Thread: Lathe shocks|
In the 1st picture near the bottom rh side of the picture, there are shown 2 black cylinder cans. They look like capacitors, and the LH one closest to the heat sink or what ever it is,. The LH capacitor looks to having a bulging top compared to the RH one. They should be flat on their tops. Sometimes when they bulge on the top, they also leek fluid out that can effect other components on the circuit. It may not be the cause of your shocks, but if the capacitor is bulging it should be replaced.
Is there a bulging cap in the picture on page 1 ?. If so, I recommend you get it looked at as well.
|Thread: Gudgeon pin steel|
A2 tool steel makes for gudgeon pins, and can be flame air hardened and then tempered.
|Thread: Cheap alternative to replacement Record hardened jaw plates?|
I replaced the Hard jaws on my Vice at work 16 years ago. I made them from 2 offcuts of electrical copper plate about 16mm thick. Still there and have lasted surprisingly well. They really should be taken out and refaced.They hold work pieces very well and so far have never damaged anything from holding it in the vice. 3 others have since switched to the copper jaws when the copper was available.
|Thread: Vernier gauge testing.|
I recently brought some insize digital calpers, a 150mm and a 200mm.
They came with individual test certificate, showing the internal error to 10mm id and the various error over 0-50 50-100,100-150, the 200 goes to 200 on the testing. When comparing to slips, their test coincided with the slips and corresponding error. The reading error over the range was as much as 0.03, but if you know the error can then compensate for it. I have never seen such a test cert with other calipers.
A ball bearing is a good test,as the od and the id of bearings are well within 0.01mm which is usually the resolution of the caliper.
|Thread: Milling machine X and Y axis out of square|
Keith, how is the mill after the replacement part was installed?.
|Thread: Chuck Run Out Question|
The chuck if new is a bad one. With different sizes of stock samples 6,8,10,12,16mm , an error or difference of 0.05mm is inside the normal range for most chucks these days. I have noticed that there are some very cheap chucks coming onto the market that are just not up to snuff at all. Tightening the chuck on the marked or zero key does make a big difference. Sometimes the best key position for the chuck is not the marked one. So try each key position and see if that improves it at all. But I still suspect it is a dud chuck.
|Thread: Asian High speed ER collet spindles|
They make one for cutting steel, but are considerably more money than the one sold for wood cutting routers.
|Thread: Threaded ball nosed cutter|
You can cut the threaded end off an old cutter, and then get a plain shank cutter and hold it into the Clarkson type holder. Works very well. There is also a very big range of the ball nose cutter geometries available in the plain shank tools.
|Thread: Measuring splines|
A lot of the automotive splines are not cut with a conventional cutter at all. Your only chance is to take a casting of the existing spine, slice the casting and make an image on a shadowgraph. With a 20x or 50x lens. Then get hss or carbide and make one to match. You can find rollers or pins that fit into the existing spline as a comparator like measuring threads, but your measuring splines. Neil
|Thread: Clarkson Autolock chucks 40int are they worth selling|
Threaded cutters are now a special item out here. The reps I deal with do not stock any threaded cutters now. Only 1 supplier that I know of has them and they are more expensive than a coated solid carbide cutter up to 10mm diameter. With the clarkson, I used to have a set of threaded ends to make the collets be able to hold non threaded cutters. Never had one come loose or let go. But now they have a full set of R8 collets, so just use those instead most of the time. The Clarkson is handy when you are drilling some holes or change back to milling, the the table or head height does not have to be adjusted so much.
The ER series work well, but the tool really needs to have 90% or better length location into the ER collet, or else they have a tendency to clamp harder on the back of the item and in turn leads to the cutter walking out of the collet.
For the smaller diameter cutters, I like to use the smaller collet series. As for the sale price on an AutoLock setup, the 2nd hand market for them is a joke. Especially when you consider the quality of the AutoLock unit and how well made they are and what their new price as the time. But that must be a sign of the times I guess. I have an Autolock, but won't ever sell it. For the odd time that I do use it, is worth the shelf space.
|Thread: HSS or Carbide?|
What I have found is the positive rake ground carbide inserts for Aluminium works very well on steel with my myford lathe. I just do not face across the centre on steel with them. I normally if the part allows put a small centre spot to take away the very center point. I use the TNMG 16mm ground Ali inserts, there is anew one out that is coated for stainless steel, looks similar to the Ali one but instead of being just shiny is a purple brown colour. The local rep call them the wonder insert. They are just the nuts at the moment, and he sells them as singles for the hobby market. I have the 0.4mm radius and the 0.2mm radius. I use the 0.2mm rad insert the most. Unless you do something stupid, they last a long time on mild steel and low tensile. The harder the steel the shorter the life of course. The 6 cutting edges make them cheap per edge compared to the dcmt or ccmt geometry inserts.
I used to have hss all the time.But am a convert to the insert tools on a hobby lathe. Hss is in it's own for 1 off special shapes or low run form tools so still has it's place.
This is a link to his site to give you an idea.
|Thread: EMG-12 Endmill Re-sharpening module|
Where ever possible, we use the max flute length for cutting. As a general rule use only 10% of the cutter diameter as a cut width. If you have less power then the side cut amount will be less. This is side cutting, not trying to make the initial slot. The cutters get reground on bottom face and side faces if they are worn/not sharp. Where possible I like to put a small radius on the corner of the cutters, they chip less and therefore last longer.
It is also called adaptive machining these days in industry.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 12/04/2015 01:50:42
|Thread: The long and twisting drill|
To make a guide , use either square or round stock, what ever will fit inside what you are drilling. Drill/ream/bore to suite the drill you are using. After drilling through the 1st, then put the guide into place. You will needs shims and clamps to support, or else you make a external packer to support it. You will know when it is correctly aligned as the drill will spin freely. Then drill the next hole and repeat.
Another way is to make a hinge drill jig. Like it says, it is a piece that had been drilled though and cut away or made up of segments like a door hinge,1 side only. The drill goes through the 1st hole of the hinge, the ist drilled hole is in the space, the drill goes through the second hinge hole as a guide, the last gap is where the part is being drilled.
It all depends on your drilling set up etc as to how it can be achieved. Long centre drills can be easy 0.1mm off centre.
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