Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dickson type T00 toolholders|
I went to that link and just did again now, it shows no products for sale. Is it because I am viewing it from NZ ?
Can you post or PM a link to where you brought the tool holders from please. Thanks, Neil Lickfold
|Thread: Lapping - how to (cheaply)|
When not using a dedicated lapping block, I glue wet and dry paper to something flat, like a piece of plate glass. I have found that the spray can of photo adhesive is good enough for this job. It has enough tack to keep the paper down flat , but can also be removed when the paper is dull.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 12/06/2016 20:29:30
|Thread: Crop Circles - poor surface when milling|
If you have enough coolant flow or compressed air with oil mist, most of your issues will vanish. I have found that if the material is a little gummy , it can stick to a cutter somewhere and leave these types of marks on the work piece.It can also happen to fly cutting as well if the cutter gets a build up on the cutting edge. Again usually with what I call gummy type of materials. Having a polished surface on the top cutting surface helps with a home made fly cutter.
|Thread: Built in NZ|
OK Ian, any more info or photo's of this machine ?
Very interesting indeed.
|Thread: How accurately can you machine?|
Since I made a 0.5mm pitch cross slide screw and nut with the 0 to 100 dial from the 100 thou pitched screw, I can easily turn diameters to 0.005mm in diameter for small parts under 30mm diameter. The advantage is that the amount on the mic is the same as the cross slide dial. On lengths I can easily get to less than 0.01mm for lengths. To get lengths less than 0.005mm does take a lot more effort that is for sure and then knowing the work piece temperature can be important. For the head inserts for engines making the lengths is easy to 0.01mm and the diameters to within 0.005 is easy for me. Pistons are the hardest part that require making something to Ø 0.001mm is very difficult but can be done. But the pistons are made to fit a specific liner and not just made to a specific size to a tolerance of 0.001mm which is a very different thing. Precision milling to better than 0.01mm does take quite a concerted effort that is for sure and most lower end mills I have seen for the home workshop are not capable of better than 0.02mm precision work.
This is probably the worlds most accurate hand held micrometer,
This is the new series of measuring technologies that will make the mechanical stuff obsolete like digital calipers have taken over from vernier calipers, but maybe more so. Interferometry I think is the next level of accurate measuring. Not priced for the hobby market or the small engineering companies yet, but prices will come down I am sure.
When making things accurate, several factors come to mind. Does it actually need it ?. Is the material actually stable enough to achieve those sizes? Can you measure it ? Did you compensate for the temperature of the part at the time it was being made. This really applies to Ali parts that are bigger than 100 mm diameter. I can remember ceramic gauge blocks coming onto the market. The down side was the expansion difference at different temperatures. So if the tools were not 20 C, it would show an incorrect reading, especially when checking the larger mics, or when someone was checking a milled pocket on a plate in the summer time. So the steel gauge blocks are still used and they sold the ceramic ones. I see that Mitutoyo now sell a sub micron micrometer these days for the very series people. But they will be superceded with laser based measuring equipment before too long or non contact measuring. Simple shapes are a lot easier to make to 0.01mm than a complex shape. If the shape is complex, a lot of cnc lathes are not capable of making a part to 0.01mm accuracy. Usually as they do not have the measuring gear to measure the part, or they do not have the measuring equipment to measure accurately the radius of the cutting tools to properly set the geometry offsets for the programming.
|Thread: Cutting oil|
Clive, the best and longest lasting machines I have worked on, never used soluble oil on the machines.They used straight cutting oils, that were thin like a honing oil. The machines that used soluble oils had wear in them as to the almost new condition of the cutting oil machines. I'm a convert of using oils and not water based coolants now .
|Thread: Dremel 4000 motor brush replacement|
They do not like any oil accidently getting on the armature or brushes.
|Thread: Excentric collet|
Tim, if you buy the high precision Regofix collets you will be very happy. Please also note, that the inner taper is required to be running true as well as the outer thread of the holder. I have best results when using the Regofix nuts with the Regofix collets. I only buy their high precision collets. Other brands actually make a higher precision collet from what Regofix offers, but at about 3 to 5 times the price depending on collet size. They are best used on the nominal sizes. For that reason I am not using any inch series cutters, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 inch. Now that I trued the inner taper on my router , I have a runout equal to the error of the spindle so is less than 0.01mm even at 40mm from the collet face.
The ER collets are best when holding onto a work piece that fits the entire length of the collet engagement. In the mix of collets that came with my 3d router, the 5mm unkown brand is just as accurate as the 3,4,5,6,8mm RegoFix collets I brought. The unnamed brand 3mm , 4mm, 6mm,8mm run out up to 0.15mm. Just shocking.
|Thread: Are we all infringing this patent?|
You will find it is for software that does it as part of the software package that they are making/selling.
|Thread: Trying to choose a diamond grinding wheel|
I like the cup wheel myself, but the cup or 45 deg wheel's are good.
|Thread: Tilting Table Kit?|
John Haine has it right. It sometimes takes longer to rework something over making new depending on the errors and what is required to be able to rework it. I assume that since you are after a kit, have the capacity to rework the one you have. The advantage of reworking stuff, is you will know where and how much the errors are. Then you can decide if it is acceptable or not.
|Thread: Stuck Dial Gauge|
I had a sticking Blake coaxial indicator. After getting it cleaned out and freed up using Shellite or in English terms liquid Naptha. I lubricated it with unscented baby oil , ( it says it is paraffin oil)sparingly on the jewels and a little on the bronze bush. When oiling the jewels you want just a very tiny amount so that it's surface tension keeps it in place. Too big of a drop and the surface tension can't keep it there and it will run away or off the jewel dimple. In clock making there a re lots of different grades of lubricants.
It's been a while now since using it and used it last week, and it was fine and free in it's movement.
|Thread: Holding piston|
Here are my piston mandrels MK2 , 1 for pistons with 13.6mm skirt diameter pistons and the other for 13.5mm diameter skirt pistons.
|Thread: Special ER Collets|
I have made Delrin ER40 collets, and for special collets , I just made them from P20 tool steel, and slit them with a slitting saw on a mandrel to stop it collapsing in on the saw.
|Thread: 'Hacking' an inverter|
I would not run that unit on anything other than a .37kw motor or 1/2 hp on single phase.Buying something and then only using it part time is the wrong way to look at the issue. You got sold the wrong item. I have several VFD drives, all run within the power rating of the set up. I like them as it is easy to make the motors run at 60 hz or 20% over 50Hz . It is great. I never have over heating issues if I decide to spend all day in the workshop making my latest thing. It seems that some of these traders on ebay Aliexpress have a system of selling sometimes things that are not what is claimed. I'm in a dispute over some collets. They run out by .15mm when they claim to be 0.015 mm which I was happy to accept. Im not a happy customer with them. I think they should refund your purchase price and they should pay to have the item returned if they want it back. It clearly in your case is not a 1 hp single phase to 3 phase inverter.
|Thread: Fusion 360 - full, free 3D CAD and CAM|
Here is the Carbon prop we recut from a blank. Very happy with it. Measure the blank to ensure it will clean up.
Prop cnc cut on under side.
We flew this prop and are happy with it so far.
The blades are laminated in such a way that we can cut the 0.2mm off the top and bottom surface without interfering with the structural part of the blade. The area that is not cut though, will be hand blended to the prop hub, that area is running the slowest and is the most forgiving of the air foil sections. At a latter stage we will be producing our own moulds, but have to start somewhere. I am just absolutely impressed with how well a job HSMworks in the Fusion360 creates cutter paths etc. And the software is free for home users and students. It has been a lot of learning how to create reference planes and all of that , that is for sure, but the help files are really good with Fusion. The default settings in HSM works are really good for most things, they have been for what we are doing.
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