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Member postings for Neil Lickfold

Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Microns ...
07/07/2019 20:04:42

That is a good idea as an alternative to the carriage wheel. Being centred will have advantages as well.

Thanks for the idea.


07/07/2019 17:06:16

I am trimming my pistons on a 1972 Myford Super 7 with 3phase motor VFD controlled with segmented belt drive drive, few would believe me. My smallest reliable cut is 1um on diameter, but have taken 1/2 um cut on diameter when fitting a piston for Glen Lewis. Rob is always impressed by what I am doing off a Myford S7. They had a new one back in 73 or 74 and it was not good enough for their liners or pistons back then. I have however refitted the spindle to bearing assembly, reset the bed clearances, and added a constant gravity oil supply, and refitted the compound slide as well. But nothing that anyone else could not do with time and care. Oh, and made a M8X 0.5mm pitch cross slide screw, but it is a normal RH thread, not the normal lefthand thread that is commonly used. The 0.5mm pitch with the hundred thou dial, makes it read just like a metric micrometer. My lathe is in room at around 20c temp to help with things. So do get there, I have the compound slide on a slight angle, so that 4 thou on the compound is 1um of X axis movement. The original compound as supplied was not capable of this fine enough and repeatable movement, so was reworked to be able to do so. I have a nice 1um 0-30 Tesa micrometer for measuring the pistons with in Combination with small Vee block. It gives a finer reading than just using the micrometer on its own. Another advantage is it allows you to see if the part is round as well. With the liners they are tapered so make for a really good gauge. If the liner is out of round you have to fit tighter to allow for wear etc to get a really good seal. Some piston alloys, even though they are from sintered stock, just will not stay round. So avoid those when possible. Some materials wont keep round to 8 microns or so. Typical taper is 2.5 micron per mm, but some have less taper like 1.2 micron per mm, while other earlier liners had lots of taper like 3.8 micron per mm. The only tool I have found to be able to take the very fine cuts on pistons is the very nice Summitomo PCD insert NF-DCMT11T304N-LD DA1000

Here is a picture of a piston being trimmed before I replaced the rear bearing set and reset the front taper and spindle again. and another just recently. Looking through the exhaust port , you can see the new bearing and refitted spindle is making a much nicer surface finish on the piston. It is hard to see in the 1st pic, but a 1um cut makes very fine sand is the way I describe it. I hand feed at around 0.02mm /rev, it runs around 700 or so rpm, and takes around 1 minute per pass for the less than 15mm length of piston. So that is like around 4 seconds per mm or so or 1/4 of a mm per second how ever you want to work the time/distance out. I don't use power feed as the surface finish becomes junk in comparison and it effects the repeatability of the carriage. Having an old fashion clock with a moving second hand is really helpful in gauging feedrates etc I find. I used to trim with the pison on a fixture and then fitted them to the rod. But with the new press fit pin pistons, the assembly has to be done with the rod in place, so a modified version of the fixture shown with a holder that held the rod and tightened from the back end through the spindle was made. Some days I don't trim pistons, due to temp in the room conditions, or if I don't have the right mindset to do it.






Edited By Neil Lickfold on 07/07/2019 17:09:08

07/07/2019 10:13:28

When fitting pistons for race engines where between good and worn out engine is 2um on diameter , being able to turn and fit a new piston without lapping it, shows a performance edge with the stop watch. The other option is to turn a lot of pistons at slightly difference sizes and then find the best one that fitted. In realty, making 4 different pistons of different sizes and then finding the best fitting one, takes the same amount of time, but you have 3 spares that may never be used.

If I could have something that allowed me to turn a piston to 0.1 um, and be round to that tolerance, I think would be really great.

Of course the real biggest issue is having the material that can be stable enough to be sized to 1um or better. Until powder metallurgy arrived, pistons for model engines could not be sized to 1um at all.

Thread: Mounting an ER collet chuck
29/06/2019 08:27:03
Posted by Richard brown 1 on 28/06/2019 22:25:59:


Are these registers definitely the way to get the best concentric fit? Is that how they are made? Is it a ridiculous idea to just nip it up and then gently tap it across in a similar way to moving something onto centre in a four jaw chuck.

Yes you can do that as an alternative. It all depends on how you set up and how often it is being removed and replaced etc.

Thread: What method do you use to find center height for your lathe bit?
28/06/2019 22:04:29
Posted by Emgee on 28/06/2019 09:15:02:
Posted by Neil Lickfold on 28/06/2019 07:25:11:

I now use a piece of plastic strip. Can be made from plastic shim, or cut from a lid of an ice cream container.

I changed to plastic, as it wont damage a pcd or cbn insert. It works quite accurately for both internal or external tools or stock in a drill press or mill.

Neil, is the method as others where the strip is between the tool and workpiece, a set on centre tool gives a vertical strip ?
Can't imagine how you use it for an internal tool unless at the back of the workpiece ?


Yes when vertical is on centre. And for internal is at the back of the work piece. If you have lots of holders and don't have to change tools during the making of a part it becomes not needed as they can be set from skimming the end face of some solid stock.

Thread: Mounting an ER collet chuck
28/06/2019 21:47:33

Find out which is the concentric register and use that one. Sometimes the outside is more cosmetic than functional, ie not done at the same time as the 2 inner diameters.

What ever clearance is on the register is the permissible error in mounting each time. One way around this is to make it with some small amount of interference or as measured size for size. Then use castor oil to aid in the assembly. It will require some form of extraction to remove, but will be the most concentric that you can have , apart from matching precision tapers.


Thread: EMCO Compact 5
28/06/2019 07:29:47

Emco are great little machines and quite accurate as well. Lots can be made with them, especially if you get the 4 jaw chuck and the milling attachment etc.

Thread: What method do you use to find center height for your lathe bit?
28/06/2019 07:25:11

I now use a piece of plastic strip. Can be made from plastic shim, or cut from a lid of an ice cream container.

I changed to plastic, as it wont damage a pcd or cbn insert. It works quite accurately for both internal or external tools or stock in a drill press or mill.

Thread: Solid carbide end mills
25/06/2019 20:23:09

What ruins small carbide cutters is sudden jerky movements , like from backlash in the table, or just not winding the table at a uniform rate. Small cutters is small feed rates. They still cut even at 1200 rpm. The other important aspect is removing the very small swarf . So having the shopvac close to the cutting area to vacuum up the stuff and a valve from an airline hooked up to be blowing a small amount of air onto the cutter is also very effective in removing the swarf from small cutters. This will extend the life of the cutter considerably. I find air to be better than using loads of coolant on small cutters.


Thread: Myford Super 7 and ER40 collet chuck
22/06/2019 21:24:25

You can always make your own collets and make special step collets from 4140 or 4340 as it comes already pre hardened but still very workable with HSS tooling etc


Thread: Slitting saw arbour
17/06/2019 20:24:01

The arbour I made , has the 25.42mm bore, that is 10mm deep. It then has a M8 tap hole a further 16mm deep.

The cap has the 25.40mm spigot, 8mm long, and at the shoulder, it is continued in an under cut way for 0.3mm deep, just a little more than the tool radius. The shoulder face is under cut out to about a 3mm land. In my case the arbour shaft is 19mm and the body is Ø40mm. I made it with the spigot on the nut, as the nut could then be thinner on the underside, and has the capscrew counter bored in it. Longer caps can be made for a gang of saws if required. Make the cap from a different steel to the body, so that it is less likely to pick up in any way. Like 4340 for the body and free cutting MS for the Cap.






Edited By Neil Lickfold on 17/06/2019 20:26:16

Thread: Hardening a form tool made from Gauge Plate
14/06/2019 23:36:31

Gauge plate needs to be bright orange in heat, Yellow is too hot , bright red is too cold. A low light room will give a better result than in day light or with bright lights on. Quench in oil is fine, you need enough oil, so that the oil does not get hotter than 30c or so, otherwise the volume is too small and the quench is inadequate. Temper in the oven at 150c to 180 c, or if heating with a torch when clean from any oil and dry, is a pale straw colour. Allow for sharpening of the edge after the heat treatment. The edge will be rounded off and burnt away from the heating of the part. If you have stainless gauze to wrap the part in for the heating will significantly protect the very sharp edges or corners. Best to remove the cage just prior to quenching, as it will hamper in the quench cooling.


Thread: Need to drill a hole digital caliper
07/06/2019 20:48:34

If you get a chisel point tungsten carbide drill, run it at around 800 to 1000 rpm, take peck cuts and have compressed air or the vacuum cleaner hose close to the hole, will work just fine. When it breaks out the other side, is when you want to use the feed stop , and adjust it 0.1mm at a time or so, will give a clean exit hole as well. The stub carbide drills are not too badly priced if it is under 5mm diameter.

Thread: How often do you oil your lathe ways?
06/06/2019 15:21:55

Here is what I set up.

Re threaded the M5 to the ba # of the oil points. I found that the length of the tubes needed to be the same, or else the shorter tube side got most of the oil.


Elevated to slowly feed down.

elevated-for oil-supply.jpg

Thread: Super 7 - Best way to use ER25 Collets
03/06/2019 11:31:39

I had the MT2 adapter. It was ok for just short things. I chopped off the MT2 part and just hold it in the 3 Jaw chuck now. Very happy with it. I can put upto 5/8 stock through the S7 spindle into the collet chuck if needed.

I also have the smaller ER11 on a parallel shank to also go into the 3 jaw chuck.I use the ER11 for stuff under 7mm diameter. The bigger parts go into the larger ER20 or ER32 holders. The collet size I use the most on the things I make is the ER11 and most used in the 3,4,5,6mm collets.

The face plate mounted collet block I did not like very much. What I did not like about it, was the bed going forward over the gap area of the Myford lathe. With the collet holders in the 3 jaw chuck, the saddle never gets to the edge of the lathe bed. The Mt2 part was turned into a stop for the 3 jaw chuck and Er32 collet adapter.


Thread: How often do you oil your lathe ways?
02/06/2019 10:04:05

I set up a gravity oil feeding system to the ways on my Myford. I keep the oil pot full when in use. I lower the pot to bed level between using it. It keeps the ways wet, and I wipe it down with a paper towel often. Works very well.

Thread: Which Qctp for mini lathe?
30/05/2019 19:36:30

Initially I had one of each type, and then settled on the Dickson type for all 3 lathes. I have since sold the wedge type . The wedge one was easier to make holders for, but was not as consistent for me as the dickson holder.

Thread: Do you wear a mask grinding HSS tool bits?
28/05/2019 21:08:23

Continued exposure to grinding dust will give you miners lung. The same thing from wood working and car paint refinishing. It is all basically the same thing. Stuff getting into your lungs that will cause an otherwise early departure. I can recall a test being done with exposure to Beryllium from grinding and milling it, making injection tools in the early 80's. The grinding wheel dust from wheel dressing and the tungsten dust from making D'bits was the highest risks. When 1 cutter was resharpened, it could not show a particle count. Making a cutter from the blank was measurable on that day. Initially it was a 1 morning test, that lead to a 1 month test. In that whole time, they had no Be gas collected that they could measure. Loads of carbide, and diamond wheel and regular grinding wheel dust. Also lots of BeCu dust from the surface grinding, but no Be only.


28/05/2019 08:15:11

It depends. If it is just a touch up of a tool, No.

Yes if it is taking a regular drill to a flat bottom , or vice versa, or making a new form tool from a blank.

The same for linishing, if it is just a very small thing and less than a couple of minutes , and a 1 off, Then No.

If I have lots of parts to linish, I wear a mask. Going to install a vacuum collection point on the linisher for the new shop though, and for the bandsaw as well.


Thread: sieg mill: normal chuck or collet chuck?
23/05/2019 08:50:34

Basically drill chucks are for centre cutting tools like, drills, reamers and centre drills.

A collet chuck is a Milling cutter tool holding chuck. Collet chucks can hold milling cutters and other cutters as well, like slitting saws on an arbore etc. They can also hold very well drill bits and centre drills as well.

They both have their places. Collet chucks are a very good investment in the machine tool.


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