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Member postings for Neil Lickfold

Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford S7 cutting double!?!
27/06/2022 11:23:30

Does it have the new Metric dials , that are in 0.05mm radial increments. So 20 units is 1mm radial , which is 2mm or 80 thou, but really should be 0.0787inches. I got a new dial and screw and nut assembly for my S7 , and the dial is marked effectively in Radial increments, not the Diameter increments that I have been used to since 1987.

The Top slide dial is in 0.05mm increments as well, so no change was there for me on that one. But it does not indicate if the dials are Metric or inches.

The old imperial one was obvious as it was 100 graduations on the cross slide, with a 0.100 inch lead thread. I use the imperial 100 count dial with my 0.5mm pitch lead screw for 0.01mm diameter graduations.


Thread: I may be stupid but
26/06/2022 20:23:16

We have an old 3jaw chuck at work. If you use 1 key on some bright bar, it will be around 0.15mm to 0.2mm tir. Then tighten first on the jaw by the logo (Pratt) then rotate chuck clockwise(away from you) then just nip onto the next two keys, it will generally be better than 0.02mm. Until I was shown about this, I would not have believed it. It was a great trick to learn of this particular chuck. So it seems that as they wear, different trick can be used and they become individuals as to how they work. The aspect I like about the grip tru series, is that it adjusts the chuck in the plane and the swash of the part remains the same. With old 4jaw chucks, you need 2 indicators to try and get the part running true. Any chuck that is over tightened by holding onto a part that is just using the very front of the jaws, (lost of parts 2nd ops ) don't grip it so tightly. It will last a very long time.

Regular maintenance and cleaning of the scroll and pinions will make them last a lot longer, even on a 4 jaw chuck. Using a vacuum cleaner will also help if cutting things that are dusty and dry.

Thread: Advice on DROs for a mill
25/06/2022 22:56:22
Posted by jack austin on 18/05/2022 21:30:13:

Hi everyone. I am planning to install an Easson ES-12c LCD DRO on my Deckel FP1 milling machine. I have not bought the DRO yet. My mill lives in the garage and the temperatures get down below -15 Celcius. I'm wondering if the Easson LCD display is a poor choice for the freezing environment?

The scale options that I have looked at, the stick on magnetic strip ones, rate them to -20C. It is not the DRO, it is the scales that have the problems with the cold temp. The Glass scale ones I looked at were only rated to 0C. Not what I would have expected. The magnetic ones are down to 1um resolution, but commonly are 5um is about 20% cheaper than the 1um magnetic reader head. The tape is specific to the reader heads resolution. The advantage of the magnetic is that they are basically touchless systems, apart from rubber wipers. There are 2 types of magnetic scales, the ones where the tape is applied by the installer. The other system has the tape already mounted to an extrusion with the protective strip in place. It is installed like a traditional scale is set up. The reader heads have differing working gap limits, specific to the system brands etc. Some need to be within 0.5mm of the tape, others can be as far as 3mm from the tape.

Thread: Myford Tachometer
23/06/2022 10:58:43

I have fitted a hall effect sensor to my S7. I found a neodymium magnet that nicely fitted into one of the holes in the front gear. It is super glued in place with about 1.5mm sticking out. The bracket is mounted where the worn rubber bump stops were placed. I drilled the holes deeper with a 7mm drill until it just broke into the casting. Tapped M8 as deep as possible finishing with a plug tap. Vacuumed out the swarf from everywhere. I also noticed the variations in the casting, so trimmed the height of the screws to be about the same as original the original bump stops. New rubber will be placed inside the 5mm hex remaining, as well as painting the bracket. The hole centres on my lathe was 111.3 for the M8 holes. It started from 1.8mm thick ali angle extrusion. 2, 3mm screws attach the bent bracket piece that holds the hall effect sensor. It needed to be closer for stand along box to work compared to the Ditron DRO box. The sensor is connected to a DB9 connector, It is wired Blue wire (Signal Earth) to pin #2, Black wire (Signal)to pin #6, Brown(+5v) wire to pin #7.



Working-RPM display box only


Working- Ditron DRO box, with RPM display


Now to tidy up all the installation,

Neil Lickfold

Thread: Hemingway Myford Saddle Stop kit
21/06/2022 00:41:41
Posted by Martin Kyte on 21/10/2020 15:14:07:

I did buy this from Myfords at a show a few years back. It does not do a great range of length but for small parts up the chuck end it works well in conjunction with a chuck backstop. The device makes use of existing tapped holes so no modification of the lathe required. Don't know if they still have any, maybe worth an eMail.

regards Martin


Did you have to drill and tap any holes for this to fit onto your machine? Where the stop block is on the LH side by the gear box, there is a screw in there for my lathe. I am assuming it is for the alignment of the head stock to the bed. Does that set screw come out and then the block mounts through that threaded hole?

On the rotating stop side attached to the saddle, does it use the top plate holes in the top cover?

Thanks, Neil Lickfold

Thread: Myford Super 7 Spindle Runout
20/06/2022 23:21:03

I would look at replacing the rear bearing, and at the same time replace the belts. From motor to the clutch or Primary drive as I see it, I went for a link belt without the metal parts. Then on the secondary drive, clutch to spindle, I went for the gates type belt, that has the cut outs on the inside and smaller depth cut outs on the outside. Like what is used on some older cars. I have al ink belt for the secondary drive, but the gates belt has not worn yet.

Being that the runout is not on every rotation, it can come from anywhere, except the very front taper spindle bearing. The amount you are talking about can come from the spindle moving back and forwards , depending on the amount of end play there is. It can also come from a worn belt if the lathe spindle has been stalled at some point etc It will be from something that has an error in itself. Having the tension too tight on the secondary belt can also cause spindle running conditions to alter a very small amount.

With great care, the S7 and the ML7 lathes can be very good in deed. It just takes a lot of time to get them correctly adjusted and in place.

Thread: Edge finder lubrication
20/06/2022 00:35:00

The baby oil I buy is near pure paraffin oil, which is distilled from petroleum oils. There are synthetic mineral oils, which a lot tend to use, not sure on the base being from plant or petroleum. Out here you can also buy it in bulk form from Bunings as Diggers Paraffin oil. There may be vegetable based oils out there, but not the ones I buy. The reason for just getting small bottle is it lasts me many years, and I like the small aperture on the cap. I also use it to thin out bearing blue. I have never noticed my indicators or mic spindles to get stiff over time.It is not the paraffin that is often confused as being Kerosene . It is a very light highly refined oil that is used in industry alot, as well as in the medical field. You can ingest small amounts pure paraffin oil and not be poisoned. It's in my nasal spary for hayfever for example.

All that really matters is the repeatability of the instrument or tool. You can easily test the different oils etc, and will see that with a thicker oil, it will read differently to a very thin oil, or when it is clean and dry.

The testing I did, clean and dry was the same as using the baby oil and still wet with Brake cleaner. The car oil (20W50) made it read late by 0.015mm on my testing. Baby oil is Zero, Clean and dry is zero. Wet with brake clean is zero, ATF oil is zero. My lathe oil which I was certain would be late , as it has 20w50 oil, some ATF oil, Lucas Oil stabilzer(really sticky stuff) and wyns friction reducer, was also zero and did 1 read of early by 0.005 the resolution of my mill DRO is the X axis. 10 weight , very light spindle oil, also Zero. Lastly tested 60 weight approx castor oil, it was late by 0.035mm . It was also the most difficult to clean off the surfaces after testing. It was the stickiest of all oils I had for testing.

My conclusion is , you can use a lot of different oils and some mixes of oils and still get the same results. If it gets sticky though or gummy, then it will read incorrectly. My edgefinder is the type with a 10mm diameter ceramic disc running on a steel shaft. I also have a Starrett one that has a 6mm shaft, but did not test the steel to steel one. It has bay oil between the surfaces.

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 20/06/2022 00:36:23

Thread: Is there an alloy that looks like copper but isnít?
19/06/2022 23:23:55

There are a lot of BeCu alloys about. When cut they don't really look like copper. After it has aged and depending on the air, it will darken a bit like copper does, but will often go to a darker brown over time to almost black, but not the same black you see on old house copper piping. Ali bronze I have seen, is more brass looking in colour. It can be tested with someone with a spectrometer, some of the jewellers ones can detect Be some can't, just depends on the units that they have.

Thread: Reinventing The Real
19/06/2022 23:14:49

Such a nice thread with lots of pictures taken. I often forget to take pictures, and then sometimes I think one has been taken but has not. I don't have soft jaws for my home lathe and use rings , either spilt or distortion type. I was confused by the JB weld needed and obviously have missed something for it being a bonded part and not part of the initial casting. When using JB weld, if I wet the profile and wipe it around, the finish will get a nice shiny surface. To prevent slumping, I have it at close to 15c as possible, and then after the initial cure, place it in a small oven on defrost mode 45-55c for a few hours to help it get to full strength. At times I have also added micro balloons or some other light weight filler to the left over JBweld for filleting. It also will reduce the slumping that can occur. Where you used the inverted boring tool, is also a good use for left hand external turning tools too. There are so may ways to make a part as well.

Thanks for taking the time to create this thread and showing how you like to make things and set up to be able to make it in the home shop.

Thread: Edge finder lubrication
18/06/2022 10:12:16

I dont use wd40 for much anymore. I don't like the way it gums up over time. Baby oil I find very good for a lot of things, like lube for mic spindles and a drop on the edgefinders works very well too.

Thread: DIN3113? - permitted max. jaw opening for 19mm
16/06/2022 21:34:19

My suggestion is to go to a place that sells spanners and measure them, then buy the one you are happy with. I am sure that they have many sets of tooling producing these things. And some will be from when the tooling is fresh and others, possibly the smaller ones, are from when the tooling is well worn. Some are designed to have extra clearance for when working in areas of adverse conditions in dusty dirty places. As an old mechanic said, when working in the dirt, take the older worn tools to that site, the new ones will only bind. Looks like your new ones are for working in outback Australia in amongst the red dirt.

Thread: Parting off small screws - well, it may be new to somebody
15/06/2022 20:33:13

With a small amount of cutting oil, the brush will also lubricate as it holds the small parts. I like the brushes with the extended front bristles , as they will reach into the groove being created.

Thread: Magnetic + dti + base + recommendations
13/06/2022 19:58:52

I like the Noga dti stands, a lot better than the cheap knock off's. Another dti I have discovered new to me, is the electronic dti's found on the internet. They have a very low spring force, and have found them to be very reliable. I could possibly respring my Mitutoyo dti, but instead have opted for a 1um resolution digital indicator. It comes with 2 options for the backplate, a plain and the back mount option and a 30mm travel.

Thread: MYFORD S 7 BELTS ?
11/06/2022 22:08:13

I agree that a link belt does not seem to have any advantages, but I have only reported my findings. My conclusion is that the frequency that it vibrates at when running is obviously different to a continuous belt. On some machinery at our work, they have recently changed to linked belts and are having less issues with some of their machines. The Z section link belt I went for was the twist link system, so does not have the mass of the metal lock pins with the belt. It does look to be flimsy and I did wonder how well it could even be working. I have lad the link twist belt on for over 10 years now. It is made from linking in the pressed sections into each other that makes a funny looking weaved belt.

I just looked it up, mine came from Fenner drives, and is called the power link twist belt series.

11/06/2022 02:57:55

I replaced the primary belt, motor to clutch, with a link belt .The first thing I noticed was a reduction in over all vibration. That reduced further after the 3phase motor and DRO was installed. I have another for the secondary but still have not installed it yet. I have noticed recently some rubber build up dust at the top of the top pulley and cover. So soon it will need to be cut free and the link belt will be then be put in place.

Thread: Front-Mount-DRO-Myford-S7
10/06/2022 20:47:29

I tried to reply , but got it removed with a warning about suppliers etc. So I have sent a PM message about it all.

However, I have discovered that the DRO units, most have software that allows for the signal not to be perfect in both directions. On my X axis, the reader only has a perfect RS422 or TTL signal in one direction only. On the winding out direction in my case, the signal from A will after a short duration of time, will rise early or drop early. Then the B signal will do the same. On the older DRO that I have, it will read just fine on the reader head from the X axis. So it must have some filtering and other clever tricks to over come this failing signal and not loose count steps. My new lcd DRO will not work with a bad signal , and will miss steps. But it will only do this in the lathe mode, on Radius or diameter. It does not do this in Milling mode however. So the box must have some software issue that is not being addressed in lathe mode. The company that I got all this from, have offered a full refund for it's return and offered to pay for that as well. But I have found a fix and will keep what I have got.

The Sino K200 series 1um resolution 360mm travel glass scale works extremely well and was not too difficult to install. It is 16x16mm for the scale itself. It was a 6 week wait for it to be made, and I was happy with that too. The standard resolution is 5um for these scales and for most of the magnetic reader heads as well. Mine is RS422, but in reality it could also be TTL and work just as accurately.

I had contacted others who make DRO kits etc but enquiries for 1um resolution went un answered, so went the way I did by searching online and found the supplier that I bought from.

I still need to put some extra panels on to help keep junk from the glass scale. I don't use compressed air to clean down the machine anyway. Only a vacuum cleaner. I also need to see how the taper turning attachment is going to fit as well.


Edited By Neil Lickfold on 10/06/2022 20:50:55

Thread: Help: Cordless angle grinder keeps shutting down?
09/06/2022 20:11:17

I have Ryobi 18v system. The dropsaw that I have will not work with their new 9amp battery. The newest drop saw does work with the 9amp battery. Apparently in the battery is a current draw control circuit. The new models have some form of ramping the start and reduces the current draw at start up. I have found that the 4amp/h batteries seem to be able to take a higher current draw. So I have only stuck with those. My circular saw from 2003 is also a high current starter, as it was from the days of Nicad batteries. It also did not start on the 9amp battery. Would just turn over and before full rpm, it shut down like the battery is not charged .

Thread: Cutting threads
06/06/2022 02:34:34

It looks to me that the die was run into the shoulder. Sometimes this can cause the thread to be stripped or be damaged enough that when the die is reversed , it unwinds and the damaged section comes out. The damaged section looks to be the length of a die. Should always stop before a shoulder, and then very carefully come up to the shoulder if it does require the full length to be threaded. Often designs can be modified is such a way that the thread is only required to be within 1 pitch away from a shoulder. Allows room for a nice radius transition at the shoulder and for an easier part to make. Silver steel can actually be quite tough on dies, especially if the dies is a High Carbon Steel die. HSS dies will last a lot longer cutting threads on Silver steel stock. An advantage to threading and then backing off, and then threading again, is that it forces the swarf to be broken, and not become a long spiral. It also allows for you see the progress of the thread and if anything is going not right can be detected very early on. Tool life can be greatly improved with proper cutting fluids as well.

Thread: Finally able to get good finish on mild steel
03/06/2022 22:14:53

With tungsten carbide inserts, a great rule of thumb is for finishing using the radius of the tool as a basis for the feed rates and depth of cut. So in finishing, depth of cut from 1/2 the radius of the tool used, but is easier to say is the diameter of cut is the radius of the tool. So R0.2mm tool is Ø 0.2mm depth of cut up to the Radius of the tool deep. So on a R0.2 insert cuts of 0.4mm in diameter. For a fine finish, use 1/4 of the radius as a feed rate. So on a R0.2mm tool a feedrate of 0.05mm or 2 thou per rev, up to 1/3 of the radius of the tool. A 0.05mm feedrate on a R0.4mm insert will give an excellent finish if the material will still shear nicely with the power that you have. I find that the sharper the tools, often the better the surface finish, which is a reason that I use a lot of the ground carbide inserts for finishing. So like TNMG insert is not ground, but a TNGG is.

The work piece needs to be sufficiently supported as well, or else the work piece will just push away and be tapered etc. So planning the job is very important.I always like to take 2 finish passes after roughing out, and if a separate finish tool is used to the roughing tool, I plan on 3 finish passes of about equal depths of cut. With a R0.2 tool I like to leave about 0.6mm on the finishing diameters and 0.1mm on finishing faces. With a R0.4 tool I like to leave 0.75mm on diameter. Mostly I finish with R0.2 inserts unless the part needs the R0.4 from the tool in a corner some where. Often I will undercut corners where possible in the roughing stage and they become finished, with the part looking funny until it is finished.

Sometimes you get a better surface finish with a very thin coating of oil on the parts, other times it will stay dull until some surface treatment is done, like touching the surface with a light grey scotch brite pad. You won't be easily able to measure the difference in size, but the parts will look nice and shiny afterwards.

Thread: Warning buyer beware
01/06/2022 20:30:53

Those boring heads are almost bullet proof. I would think that if carefully taken apart and then reassembled and deburred inside, it should all be working fine. If anything, the #2 MT may well be bent at the joining area. They are a little tricky to get apart . Most common is the over travel and it creates a burr on the inside part. 1985 was when I took one apart to repair. It was loose and tight on the feed ring.

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