Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Telescopic bore gauges|
Tele gauges are not like they used to be made for sure. Some need the slot in the expanding side to be cleaned up and polished smooth or stoned smooth. Same with the pin end and a little radius on the outer edge of the pinch pin. Then the cheap ones will work as well as an expensive set. Tele gauges do take some getting used to being able to get good repeatable results. Just get a ball bearing and measure them, and keep practicing until you get the size as the bearing. You should be able to get consistently better than 0.01mm of the actual size.
|Thread: Poor finish using indexable lathe tools on steel|
By the looks of what you are doing, that steady support is not needed. Avoid where ever possible, cutting to the very centre unless it is needed. If it is not required to be flat to the centre, I use a centre drill and put a 2mm or 3mm diameter dimple in the end of the part. RPM wise, anything from 300 rpm to 600 rpm is plenty fast enough. You need a roughing out insert and a finishing insert. Roughing is often a 0.4mm radius. Using a water soluble type coolant will help reduce the heat of the work piece. Hand feed at a rate that will make little chips, not long curls. It maybe that you will need the smaller R0.2mm insert to get nice curled chips. Some where around 0.5 to 1mm on diameter will do that, but the depth of cut is limited to the power of your motor. For 1mm diameter of cut, you will need around 1 hp,/750 watt motor. If you have the 3/4 hp motor taking a 1mm cut I think is being unrealistic.
Use a new sharp edge for the finishing, and take the finish cuts at 1/2 to 1 radius per side and a feed rate of 1/4 of the radius as a feedrate. So if you use a R0.2mm insert, then taking a 0.2mm on diameter cut for the finish pass at around 0.5mm/rev at around 400 to 500 rpm will work well. Using a cutting oil for steel will aid in the surface finish, or a water based cutting oil at around 10% concentration will also give a good finish. 500 rpm at 0.05mm per rev will take about 1 min to travel 25mm.
I don"t run my Super 7 any faster than the highest speed on the spindle with the low speed of the motor to the clutch. I don"t run the faster speed from the Motor to the clutch on anything these days. Some materials will give a better finish with dull looking edge insert tools, but I mainly use the very sharp carbide for Aluminium on most steel's on my lathe. The coolant I use is one suitable for Titanium and steels and Non Ferrous metals works really well.
|Thread: Moving to Australia - Moving Workshop Machines|
H3.2 treated timber is OK for NZ or the equivalent. It will also pass Australian laws as well. I did not risk using Boric treated timber. No point taking the TV though, its tuner will not work in Australia, apart from the fact that the plugs are all different. No biggy, chop the end off and reconnect a new 3 pin plug. Small things like sanders etc, you can use an adapter plug for them. Sometimes its cheaper to buy that adapter plug in the country you are from, rather than the country you are going to. A real irony. Not sure with Australia , but bring a bed to NZ is not allowed due to dust mites in mattresses. So you can bring in the frame and ironically pillows with your flight luggage. Again something else to check on. Some countries also have a ban on small petrol engines, like chainsaws, weed wackers etc, again you'll need to check that as well.
Dont take, Honey, apples, or bottled water with you. It will all be confiscated on arrival.
When you pack and crate your machines, ensure that they are bolted / secured to the platform it is sitting on. I placed 75mm square around the base of the Lathe when we shipped USA to NZ back in 09 as well. Placed all the tooling into manageable sized boxes made of 16mm OSB with strip nail holding and reinforcing the corners. I packed the tools with rags and bubble wrap. Sprayed everything with crc long life. Steam cleaning is not required but you want no dirt and no oils or coolant in anything. I wrapped everything up so even an ant could not get in there.
Dont know what happened to the shipping container, but the jolt it had on the journey was enough to crack one of the 1-1/2 inch thick slates in the pool table. Quite a few other things had some damage as well. But all the tools and machinery was just fine.
Good luck on your move.
|Thread: Drilling Ball bearing balls|
Like JasonB , hold it in a collet or a bush, drill with a tungsten carbide drill. Then you can also bore to the diameter you want with a carbide boring bar.
The ones I drilled out for my Noga stand attachments , was 7/16 ball , Spot drilled , with a carbide spot dril 1st for about 1mm deep or so, drilled with a 5mm coated carbide drill. I drilled at around 300 rpm, and used just compressed air to keep it cool and blow the chips away. Then bored it out to suite the pin of the attachment. Glued and assembled with 620 loctite, as a permanent assembly.
With Mine I just held the ball in the 3 jaw chuck, with a bit of printer paper around the circumference. Indicated the inside of the jaws true, (adjustable grip tru chuck) and did them. The paper helps with both holding the part and not marking it as well.
|Thread: Parting off tool - straight or angled.|
The advantage of the flat parting tool, is that it allows for the length of the tool out of the holder to be adjusted and the centre height remains the same. The reason for the inclined parting tool holders was to allow the chips to fall down the inclined surface. The inverted rear tool post has all the advantages as mentioned by others.
I only have the normal parting off tool from the front face. I purchased a 2mm wide inserted parting tool with 5 inserts for parting and another 5 inserts for the multi turning function. I am still on the 1st parting insert. Until then I was always using the hss blades that came with the original Dickson holder and the spare.
On the insert and the hss blade, it has a curved geometry on the top face. It curls the chip as it comes off the work piece and as it curls, it creates clearance so it can clear from the groove. I always apply from a bottle with a small spout and hole, from the front and back towards the tool holder. The chips come back along the blade. You can use water based coolant or cutting oils, it just needs something to stop any buildup on the edge of the tool.
I have often thought of getting a rear toolpost setup, but have only ever thought about it.
|Thread: R8 instead of MT3|
Having used both R8 and MT3, if the spindle is good and the register for the R8 is the correct size, then R8 can be often purchased quite cheap for after market parts like boring heads etc.
The MT3 like been said, a lot of people do over tighten them.
An advantage of an R8 over a MT3 , is if the collet or piece is undersize, the back of the R8 keeps it well aligned while the front taper clamps down on the tool and it still runs quite well. That is not the case with the MT3. If you only ever have nominal cutters etc, then the MT3 is fine.
See what else you want in the way of other holders and drill chucks and arbors etc and price them up and availability.
Often availability of accessories that you will use can be a real deciding factor, and not just price alone.
|Thread: ER25 or MT2 Collets|
This is quite interesting. My Mill is MT4, I have collet sets from ER11 through to ER40. But unless I get the really good ones, it is just not the same as a MT collet or any other direct spindle collet. The only advantage of the ER system, is that when I change to a drill chuck, the head height stays at about the same height for most things that need both drilling and milling. I think that the MT collets will hold better than a ER , simply because there is one less something to not be concentric. Most small cutter come on 4mm shanks, there area few 3mm shank cutters, then there is a few 5mm, but standard is 6mm, 8mm 10mm 12mm, If your mill is 2 MT , 3 to 8mm will most likely cover the range for you.
I'm looking at a set of 4,6,8,10 collets will cover most of what I need.
|Thread: Dial indicator probe threads|
A lot of the plunger type indicators , use M2.5 and M3 that I have seen so far. The M2.5 is 0.4mm pitch . The M3 is the standard 0.5mm pitch. I have made several for the plunger indicators. I made my extensions from 3mm and 4mm ejector pins. They are nitrided on the outside, are reasonably straight, cheap, and once through the nitrided coated the steel is not that difficult to turn or to thread cut. I start the thread by thread cutting, then use the die as a chaser to follow and make it to the final size. When I need a flat surface, I use the head end of the ejector pin. But most of extensions have either had a 2.5mm ball retained with loctite, or have been points, or a blade of some sort to get to measure or compare a feature.
I have found the threads on the plunger matches a M2.5 capscrew or M3 capscrew really well, while the tip thread is often loose and undersized by at least 0.1mm in diameter or more sometimes.
|Thread: Hardened Silver Steel Shattered - How to Avoid?|
For hardening a part like your cutter, I would be heating the solid shank, and allow the heat to transfer to the thinner part. It would need a hold time of about 5 minutes. With a gas torch that seems an eternity . Don,t over heat and get it all scaley, and I always use a carburising flame for heat treatment.
Practice is a good idea. Real daylight or no light is best to get the idea of the heat when getting the steel hot. There are colour charts on the net, but getting them nicely printed I have found is best from a photo centre.
There is W1 and O1 in the silver steel range. The W1 is water quench. With the W1 , I was always taught that the water should be heated to at least 40C if using water quenching, then leave in ice water after the initial quench.
Polish, keep oil free, then temper 1st time at 150c and then slowly increase temper temp to the desired hardness. After the 1st temper at 150C for minimum of 1 hour per 1/2 inch of section, quench in boiling water, then retemper to the desired range. IE a ball race needs to be retempered at 150c , but cutters in the 180 to 210 c range.
The way the quenching is done is also important, it does require agitated oil or water to be effective.
Sometimes shell cutters fail due to no internal clearance , or outside clearance.
|Thread: Tangential tools ?|
Here is a link to the Korloy through a UK agent.
They are really ment for cnc with through coolant. But can be used on a manual lathe with a squirt bottle. The smaller 10mm and 14mm work well on a Colchester sized lathe. Not tried them on my myford. I have made my own Dbit tools for non ferrous materials on the Myford as a combination drill turn tool.
With my 1/4 inch carbide , on ali and brass , dont go more than 30mm deep. In plastic and wood I go upto 70mm deep.
I no longer have a tangential tool and seldom use anything in hss. I don't run my lathe faster than 800 rpm on anything, and the modern carbide tools are just awesome , especially for the amount that can be done on 1 edge.
There is a huge range, and more places are now selling lower numbers of inserts. Only this week, a trade supplier who only last week, the min quantity was a box of 10 or how ever many was in a packet, now offer single inserts or a mix and match option, and they did not make the single inserts more expensive either. So a selection of different radius options is very viable now.
If I was to buy a new tool, it would be a multi turn tool. They groove, turn, and have different geometry inserts from full radius to various bull nose inserts. The 3mm wide tool seems to have the widest range of geometries. Another interesting tool is the MDT tool, where it can drill, bore and outer turn with the same tool.
So there is some really interesting stuff out there for sure.
|Thread: Interference fit of bush - PB into mild steel|
Actually if you use castor oil, you can have a 0.001 inch diameter press fit and assemble it without too much trouble at all. No need to heat anything.
|Thread: Machining cork!|
Grind it. With a dremel and sanding drums works really well. The use a vacuum cleaner to keep the dust to a minimum.
|Thread: WM180 Replacement Cross Slide|
When I made my Myford 0.5mm pitch cross scre wand nut, I just used the normal RH tap , and screwcut the thread with a traveling steady rest.
It does need to turn the opposite , I it is no biggie. You just have to remember which way is feed out.
|Thread: KX1 CNC Mill Clearance Offer|
I find it interesting the new software with high speed machining . Even though at times the cutter seems to be cutting too much air, in some cases it actually becomes faster and better for the machine tool life. One example is we had a part and the corners has a 0.5mm radius. The software used to slow down and then speed up trying to get around the small radius. The new software as it came off the end of the part did just over 1/2 of the radius and did a circular path then entering and finishing the other 1/2 of the radius and then goes down the next side. The machine did not bump around as much, the part looked nicer, and the time to make it was actually less. Not what I was expecting at all. Have fun Jason
|Thread: Sizing an M2 thread during screwcutting|
The copper works well as does the split nut method. On very small stuff like the M2 thread I have found that a thread mic with the anvils, not the points to be the best. The biggest problem I find with small threads is the variation in the taps themselves and the thread that is in the nut. As for fine wire, music shops sell the wire in 1 thou diameter increments. I buy sets of wires in a selection. Its what I make my circlips from for the model engines .When I used to make up wire for thread measuring , I left it very long, and looped it around and had tow on top and two on the bottom. As it was hinged it sort of stayed together. Another guy I worked with made his like a coil spring. It was just 2 loops. These he put tooth picks for handles on and would unwind the spring to fit over the thread form. This was for M3 and M4 LH threads for inserts. Both worked well, but the thread mic is quite fast. Down side to a thread mic is the purchase cost of the anvil sets. What I do like about the thread mic, is that you can make different anvils to suite differing applications , IE ball anvils etc.
Trying to get concentric threads I had always found difficult. So one way was to modify some taps, and on the lead in area, make it very close to the drilled size hole. This make it into a piloted tap, and that has solved a lot of issues for me. I use it to get the start of the thread form concentric, and then follow through with the regular tap.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 25/02/2019 18:32:51
|Thread: 3 Jaw self centering ER chuck|
It is a easy way to have an auto collet closer using the 3 jaw chuck.
Hey John, I like it. That is quite a trick setup , especially the fact that the chuck has a limit on the opening.
As for accuracy I am sure it is better than 0.01mm if the collet is a precision collet. For it's application with full contact engagement in the collet looks really good to me.
It would also lend itself to the use of distortion collets as well. Very interesting.
I might have to make up a set of jaws to allow this to happen.
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