Here is a list of all the postings Neil Lickfold has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New, old Myford Super 7 essentials|
Dried oil and sludge is the main cause of blocked oilways. If you force that through, sometimes you get a product that will act like a lapping paste left behind that will wear out the machine.
|Thread: Making a cast of a blind hole|
When the end detail is not critical, casting with a tube in the centre helps. Then some low pressure air can be put down the tube to remove the casting.
|Thread: Vertex Dividing-Head - basic help please|
Tis place has a download of instructions.
Is that the same unit?
There is a lever on the side that engages or disengages the worm. The other lever normally is the index pin engagement or disengages the quick select on the index plates, or is the spindle lock.
|Thread: Gloves and machine tools - my stupidity.|
When ever I watch the pc video's with people wearing gloves, always makes me nervous. Gloves are as dangerous as loose long sleeve clothing ,or loose long hair and wearing Jewellery.
When polishing and wanting a near perfect scratch free surface, the material used to wipe away the previous grist size needs to be a scratch free material, like a lens cloth material. Washing hands between grit changes also helps.
|Thread: CNC Lathe Scratch Build|
The idea of the wavy springs is to put a preloaded amount of tension onto the bearings, but does leave a small amount of movement with a large load. This is to allow for expansion if something gets hot or cold, the assembly does not jam up. The inner sleeve idea is that the pre tension load is determined by the sleeve length. So you can do up the rear nut holding the pully etc, but are not effecting the bearing preloaded state. Quite often the spindle bearings will come with information on the amount of preload that they should be, and the amount not to exceed. I can't remember what the N value of the springs are, but they use them in a lot of electric motor bearing installations.
Are you using any wavy bearing springs in your spindle pack at all? Or any spacers between the bearings?
A very nice project. Be interesting to watch the progress. Thanks for sharing what you are doing.
|Thread: Case hardening a part with tapped holes.|
Drill and Tap the holes after the pieces are carburised, but before being hardened.
|Thread: Re sharpened machine reamers|
There are machine reamers that have a tapered front end, although not very common these days.
The best way to find the size of your reamer is like what others have said, is to ream a test piece . Sometimes you will get a slightly different size or result depending the coolant used. like a oil or a water based coolant.
|Thread: Workshop temperature - cold|
I used to put up with a cold workshop. Last year installed a heat pump and it stays 20c all through winter, and cooled in the summer to about 24c Very comfortable. Its the best thing that I ever did for the shop, apart from insulating it. Until the heat pump, I had one of those infrared heaters , it is like standing with the sun on your back. But the heat pump is way cheaper to run, and once it is all up to temp, does not cost alot to keep it warm.
|Thread: Calibrating Micrometers|
My Mitutoyo 0-25mm micrometer is now in my home shop for approximate sized parts. It has errors upto 0.01mm in places in the area's that it has been used the most over the years. But at closed it is zero, and still measures correct at the end of it's total travel of 26mm is still correct. But the variations happen at the 8mm to 16mm range. Some is under by 5um(1/2 division) while others are as much as 0.01 when compared to known standards or known sizes.
So what looks like exactly 12mm is actully 11.99 mm so makes for a nice slide fit for a 12mm bearing. No good of it really needed to be 12mm.
Inspecting micrometers is a specialists job, and requires things like a optical flat and monochomatic light, apart from length stacks that check the micrometer at different positions. There are now newer methods of inspecting the spindle accuracy and the anvil runout at the same time, while it is rotated. But zero is still done with length bars.
|Thread: Cutting Oil|
Vascomill CSF 35
Has anyone had any experience with this cutting oil ? Or is or has used it? Any feedback is appreciated on this product.
Here is a link to their brochure.
|Thread: what size vice for mill|
I made adapter plates for my vices. It has hold down on the front and rear T slots. Then the vice is placed on this adapter plate. It allows it to be placed at spacing other than the 3 T slot positions. It also allows for pivoting easier as well. Not as easier as the swivel base however.
|Thread: Griptru wil not ad just|
I have 2 grip true chucks, and both of mine have bellville washers under the screw heads for the backplate to the chuck. One was second hand, and the other was New in box.
|Thread: Myford Mk1 Super 7 restoration|
Great restoration project. Those marks on the bed are from people hack sawing something off and then sawing nothing striking the bed. Mine came with some saw marks from the previous owners. When using hand tools like a hack saw , or even just changing the chucks, I have a piece of wood I put down on the bed. Just incase for what ever reason there is a slip or a drop of something.
|Thread: Ball bearings and friction.|
A machined phenolic cage has less drag over the brass/steel/plastic cages. With ceramic balls a full compliment has very little drag, despite the balls rubbing and bouncing off each other. What we have noticed in model engine bearings, is that the ceramic ball requires a different radius to be effective compared to the steel ball setup. The work I did with some bike bearings was that there is a definite gain to a ceramic ball in a bike wheel hub as long as you can keep the dirt out. We lubricated it with a pfpe oil and only 0.1cc of oil was used in each bearing. The oil is to keep the race surfaces from rusting. These were set up in October 2019 for a indoor track bike, and are still doing great. I am fortunate to have a selection of ceramic balls in some nominal sizes, and also in the plus and minus range in about 2.5 micron diameter changes. They measure the balls to 5 decimal places of millimetre. If they are too loose, they do not roll correctly and then skid. Too tight is just friction. I make the full compliment with a small groove that just allows a ball to be pushed into place. In general I use 52% of the ball diameter as the radius for the groove. Sometimes I use 51% if I want less end float on a particular bearing. This is if I am making my own races though. Most commercial races are in the 52% to 54% of ball radius , depending on the design etc for deep groove bearings.
|Thread: High Temperature Air Source Heat Pumps for Domestic Heating|
If we replaced our 3 units with the latest Daiken high efficiency units, our max power to run all 3 will be 2.35kw total. Our current system is 2.9kw to run all 3 according to the specs of power consumption. The largest of the high efficiency units is a 5 kw heat pump.
Edited By Neil Lickfold on 09/10/2020 19:40:52
Andrew Binning, We live in Hamilton NZ, in winter it gets to a frost, so no colder than -6 C and summer will get to 30c but with a very high humidity. Out here, most brands are using R32 refrigerant. The system of having multiple split sytems instead of 1 larger unit and the same multi split system is not what the installers reccomend. But there have been some distinct advantages to what we did. Our running costs are lower per unit per room, even with all 3 running. The workshop 2.5kw is set for 22 c heat most year round, except peak of summer when I change it to cool 22c. Having the outside unit so that it gets the least amount of weather on it also helps in my view. We have not had the outside units freeze on us yet. But the combined fin area for the 3 outside units is greater than that of the 1 10kw unit had we gone that way. The neighbours were complaining this winter that there outside unit kept freezing on them. The main cause of the freezing I think was the airflow around the outside unit had some restrictions, ie bins placed beside the unit. Not infront though. Our outside unit is placed on a concrete plinth that sits on compacted sand. We do not hear the outside units running. The units for the workshop are placed at the back of the house where there is a predominant wind blowing through. At the end of that area, it opens to a courtyard and we have the washing line in line with what I call the tunnel. It dries very quickly most days. This breeze that flows though is very helpful to the outside units it seems . The house has large eves, and so most of the time, the outside units are dry. They seldom get wet, and seldom get dew on them either. Our system has a dehumidify mode, which can be set automatically in the program. It does blow the air around and can feel cool as it is dryer air being moved. We changed the direction to blow to the ceiling , and that seems to also work well for us.
We placed our Bedroom outside unit so that it is in the sun, and the warmer side of the house, as we use it mainly for winter heating the cold end of the house. The main living room unit is placed in the cold side of the house, as we want it for cooling in summer, more than heating in winter.
So far it has worked very well for us. We can't see the power consumption for the heat pumps, but the power company we were with, had a home comparison for electricity used based on comparable house specs. Our power bill was consistently 25% to 30% lower than the comparable homes. We do have a well insulated home, but the main difference is we have 3 individual units complete with their outdoor units. The system they wanted to put in was one large outside unit feeding 3 inside units, out here is called a multi split system. The smaller 2 2.5kw units are more energy efficient than one 5kw unit. The lounge has a single 5 kw unit for cooling the space and is the correct size for the area to cool and more than enough to heat in winter. Running all 3 still uses less power than the one big unit.
The 2.5 kw units have a rating of 4.3 and the 5kw is 4.0 the 10 kw that they wanted to put in is only 2.9
Now 18 months later , the newer 2.5kw units are down to 6.5 and the 5kw units are 5, so producing more heat or more cooling for even less energy.
|Thread: Ball bearings and friction.|
The bearing I took apart had a steel cage. The other bearings had a plastic cage. So I recycled the plastic cage from the old bearings and put them into the new ones. To take apart the steel cage, I use the hook from an O ring pick and starting from the inner side, carefully lift up the cage. It just unfolds the tabs and comes out. I do not attempt to recycle the steel cage. Some of the 15X28 bearings have 10 balls instead of 9. With the 10 ball ones, you need to very carefully distort the outer race, and the centre ball can be removed. The 9 ball ones, the centre ball can be easily removed . In my case the 28mm od race was held in a ER40 collet. The Inner race is held on a 15mm mandrel that is a tight thumb press fit. I made the mandrel from AL. I put it in the freezer and the inner race comes off very easy.
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