Here is a list of all the postings C J has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Lathe Chucks|
I have got a 4j but want to avoid the problem of rechecking this part which I’m sure it will need
I suppose I could do the boring with the 4j and the turning with the 3j but it won’t be as quick as using a 3j with more capacity only
Thanks, I realise I am coming up against the capacity limitations of the Super 7, I don’t like some of the Chines stuff either and will avoid it if possible but I will look at Arc Euro’s catalogue
I have a Myford Super 7 lathe and want to make a bush with a flange at one end from some 40mm round bar, and so hold this in a chuck and cut a 28mm hole through the centre with a boring bar.
The problem is, I want to pass the boring bar completely through the piece of bar but the centre hole of my 4" chuck is just 25mm
So does anyone know of a 4" or 5" chuck for the Super 7 which has a larger centre hole, as I have searched for another chuck but for some reason the manufacturers seem shy of providing the diameter of the centre hole?
I realise I could also hold the bar with a clamp on a faceplate (can't think of its name) but I want to do a number of procedures on this bush.
Edited By C J on 22/01/2020 12:28:37
|Thread: Reilang oil cans|
Edited By C J on 11/10/2019 18:49:28
|Thread: Turning between centres on Super 7|
Thanks, I’ve just this minute been watching a video about them
Interesting again, I have seen something similar on wood turning lathes,
I wonder if you have to give it a tap to make the driving edges bite into the workpiece?
Mmm?, after a quick search on the net I see the genuine catch plate (that I haven't got) has a built in counterbalance, which is nice!
Thanks, a few ideas to pursue there.
I guess I just like the idea of the drive dog being close to the faceplate and away from where I will be cutting.
I plan to turn a part between centres but find the centre protrudes from the faceplate by about an inch which means the peg to push the drive dog round needs to be nearly two inches long and I would like this to be shorter.
To achieve this, I would like a stubby MT2 centre but did Myford once supply them?, otherwise, short of trying to make one does anyone know of a seller of stubby centres.
|Thread: Removing and re-chucking a part whilst thread cutting on Myford Super 7|
Fitting the cutting tool into the thread in approximately the middle of a length of cut thread is far easier than trying to find the position in which the thread starts and once fitted and then the cutting tool withdrawn the fit is of course saved for the length of the thread after you reverse the lathe, take the backlash up, and then start cutting again.
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 15:06:54
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 15:21:29
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 15:24:34
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 15:26:21
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 15:30:01
Well spotted, yes a motorcycle inspection cap, in the pursuit of lightness in magnesium!
Correcton “..... and adjusted the fit of the cutting tool into the thread using a combination of the top slide... “
I recently made the pictured screwed cap on my Super 7 and had some difficulty in getting the thread diameter right.
I have a DRO fitted to my lathe so I can add on more cut by known increments and to avoid un-chucking the part I initially backed off the saddle enough (with the feed still engaged) to remove the chuck containing the cap in order to try it in it's destined hole but the thread was binding and having the part in the chuck made the handling unwieldy, and after two goes at doing this I thought there must be a better way.
At the third attempt I just removed the part from the chuck, as the thread was still binding in it's destined hole, and then put the part back in the chuck, hand cranked the saddle towards the chuck until the cutting tool was positioned approximately half way along the thread, but away from and not engaged in the thread, and then adjusted the fit of the cutting tool into the thread using a combination of the slide (positioned in line with the spindle) and the cross slide, and when it fitted withdrew the cutting tool reversed the lathe and then restarted cutting the thread
I encountered no problem using this technique other than having to ensure that the part runs true on re-chucking and finally achieved a working fit for the thread after two more cycles of removing and re-chucking the cap!
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 12:31:55
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 12:32:35
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 12:33:42
Edited By C J on 02/09/2018 12:36:22
|Thread: Which slitting saw|
I recently bought a 0.8mm x 50mm x 22mm bore slitting saw from a well known West Yorkshire based company but on fitting it onto a true running one piece mandrel I found the bade was running out of true eccentrically by 0.5mm which might be OK on a big casting but I was cutting a slot into a small, delicate and difficult to hold brass item so the eccentricity made the depth of cut a hit and miss affair and I was also worried that the eccentricity might dislodge the item from it's tenuous hold in a small chuck.
So I returned the saw and I am now on the lookout for a true running one if someone can suggest a supplier of good quality saws?
|Thread: Myford quick change gearbox quadrant pinch bolt access|
I have been cutting some metric threads recently by swapping 33 and 34 teeth input gears but today I finally caved in struggling to undo and tighten the quadrant pinch bolt without removing the bull gear and drilled a 9mm hole in the casing for access the bolt with an Allen key on end, and when not in use put a car wheel cylinder bung in the hole.
Sacrilege perhaps but it works for me.
|Thread: Detection of hard metal bits embedded in sliding surfaces|
Yes I do and also position it so that it's hand wheel protrudes past the lead screw hand wheel to protect that from knocks!
I've now put a tailstock wiper on my to-do list but my original question on how to detect such things remains and I wonder if the light from a laser aimed at low angle to the surface being inspected would refract off a rubbed bright embedded piece of metal and perhaps show some pieces I can't see or find, and show in an instance how clean or contaminated a surface might be?
Since buying my Super 7 earlier this year I have occasionally noticed that the tailstock makes a noise when I slide it along the bed, the culprit being a speck of hard metal usually found at the end of a scored line on a sliding surface of the tailstock and when I dig it out with a scribe normal sliding is resumed.
My question then is, is there a die or a special light that might highlight such pieces of embedded material to aid their detection?
Edited By C J on 24/07/2018 00:25:27
|Thread: Super 7 spindle crank handle|
The bore of my spindle tapers slightly towards the middle so I thought to position the expanding part at the point but as an aside I suppose a longer shaft helps the he handle to run true.
Edited By C J on 07/07/2018 00:12:08
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